SOC-Meter Kit DIY Assembly

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I completed my SOC kit about a week ago. Here is it mounted in the car, with the cable shortened as first suggested by mwalsh. I cut off 17" which still leaves a little slack. If you choose to do this (not recommended by Gary), I would suggest cutting off 19-20."

IMG9439-M.jpg


I have mounted a little clip outside the image view so there is absolutely no slack that might interfere with my legs on the pedals.

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Here are my final suggested edits for Rev 8 Assembly Instructions. Their intent is to add clarification so that others might avoid the orientation errors I made. New text is shown in italics. For those who have not started assembly, you should wait for Gary's "official" revision.

1d. Lightly twist the 8 unused wires into two groups of 4 each, and cut each wire in each group to a slightly different length so there can be no possibility of shorts. Using the Electrician’s Tape, tape together the wires of each group so that they are insulated from each other and insulated from anything outside the tape.


2. SPDT switch
>> (Normal position)
Note that both switches’ action is such that when the toggle level is “up,” the center terminal(s) are connected to the bottom terminal(s), and vice-versa. “Up” and “Down” in these Assembly instructions refer to the intended orientation of the switch terminals, not the toggles.

2a. Solder the “Switched 12v” on OPD pin 8 (Green) to what will become the switch’s top solder contact. Do not confuse this solid-Green wire with the Green/Black wire.

2b. Solder the “Always-On 12v” on OPD pin 16 (Red) to what will become the switch’s bottom solder contact.

D. Physical Assembly >>>

b. Install the Display in the slot you have prepared for it. Orient it so that its decimal points are on the “bottom” side.

e. Prepare the two switches for installation in the holes in the left end of the meter box. First remove and set aside one hex nut, the lock washer, and the keyed flat washer from each switch. Tighten down the remaining hex nut on both switches.

Insert the DPDT CAN-Selector switch in the bottom hole, with the (White/Black) and (Green/Black) connected terminals facing down. Secure this switch with one lock washer and one hex nut on the outside.

Install the SPDT Power switch in the top hole in the same manner, with the Green connected terminal facing up. Discard the two keyed flat washers.

l. Put the cover (the “back” of the Meter) on the enclosure, with the 4 provided screws. If the screws have been inserted previously, first turn each metal screw gently backwards until it “clicks” into the thread it previously cut into the plastic. Otherwise the screw may cut new weak threads on top of the original threads.
 
Tom, Thanks for the input.

Try getting a medium-dark blue acetate or plastic (maybe 0.005" thick)
to put over the digits, to improve visibility in sunlight.

I tried it with a Red Gell sheet on the Red SOC-Meter,
and it is a substantial improvement in sunlight readability.
 
Here I am at the San Jose TechShop all ready to drill out the enclosure and come to find out the no printer I try will print the template to scale.

About ready to pack it in when I finally find a pencil to mark the box (nothing I had would make marks that were visible).

Got the holes for the switches and push buttons drilled and while the push buttons are not centered it will work.

But there wasn't enough info on the templates (1d or 2a) to mark the OBD IN hole or to place the DB9 connector. Gary, got some offsets I can work with for placing the OBD and DB9?

Also, the OBD hole is marked as 9/16" dia. Seems a little excessive. Is it correct?

Carl
 
Hi
Sorry for the ignorance but here in Florida we are still waiting for the first Leaf (And I was that one up till 3 weeks ago)
I read the forum with great interest and hope that the East coast can enjoy the same comradely that I see on the west coast once they actually start appearing here.

Now to my question

What is a SOC Meter what purpose does it serve?
 
Brightonuk said:
What is a SOC Meter what purpose does it serve?
The meter is reading the data stream from the CAN bus in the car. So far, the brilliant ones among us have decoded what they believe to be the data that indicates the State of Charge of the battery, the amperage and voltage of the battery and the amount of power (or regen) being used (created). This data is more precise than that available on the dash board or Nav unit.

The hope is that we can access more of the data that the car can provide but doesn't presently tell us.
 
Brightonuk said:
Thanks
What are the buttons and switches for?

It's 12.30am I gotta stop reading I cannot wait till I get this car
The forum and the car are addictive, just ask my wife!

Right now, the red button selects the mode and the black cycles through the data points.
Mode 1- State of Charge. Black button selects % or raw number.
Mode 2- Battery info. Black button selects amps, pack voltage or power (regen).

The top switch on the side when down turns on the meter only when the car is on or ready to drive. When up (always on), allows the meter read when charging.

The bottom switch on the side selects which CAN bus is being read. Down is the EV-CAN bus, up is the Car-CAN bus (I think). Better info can be found on the various SOC Meter threads garygid has started. Try this one http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=5149&view=unread#unread" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Carl,
Yes, the OBD cable hole should be 9/32, not 9/16 inch.
I just posted a correction, "Rev 2b" of the Hole Template file.

There should have been a hole-template already printed
out to scale included in the SOC-Meter kit.

I marked the hole centers with a sharp-pointed awl.
Do not press too hard and crack the plastic box.

The display slot is centered, and 1/2" x 25/16" (you can measure your display).
 
garygid said:
Carl,
Yes, the OBD cable hole should be 9/32, not 9/16 inch.
9/32 was my guess
garygid said:
There should have been a hole-template already printed
out to scale included in the SOC-Meter kit.
Just looked and yes it was there.

And, on my 3rd attempt, I have a correctly scaled template. Finally found a printer that allowed me to turn off any 'scale to fit'.
 
The newest SOC-Meter Hole Template on-line includes the optional D-Hole cutout for the Logging Port (a female 9-pin D-sub connector), mounted externally on the Right End of the Box.

I added the Logging Port to my F1.08 SOC-Meter yesterday, and tested it with my latest (v1.5.1) CAN-Do program. Works Great!

Note: a GOOD USB-to-RS232 adapter is required. There are many "POOR" adapters. See the SOC-Meter used for Logging thread for adapter ideas.
 
I just posted a new, slightly improved version (Rev 4) of
the Soc-Meter Wiring Diagram.

No wiring changes, but hopefully a bit more helpful.

See http://www.wwwsite.com/puzzles/socmeter/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
What did you use for making the hole for the DB-9 connector? Can you do it if the meter is already assembled? Or do you have to take the guts out? I'd love to have the connector mounted on the case. I still haven't made up my connector cable (though I have the RS-232/USB adaptor and know it works).
 
The Logging port can be added to an SOC-Meter. I did mine like this:
(assuming you have the needed hardware)

1. Remove the "lid" (back)
2. un-plug the AVR-CAN board (3 places) and set it safely aside.
3. use the newest Hole Template and mark the 6 holes on the Right End of the box with a awl.
4. carefully drill 1/8 inch holes at the six indicated locations, then drill about nine more near the edges of the "D" slot, to aid in cutting out the slot.
5. using an eXacto knife (or similar), cut the plastic to fit the solder-side of the D-connector.
6. solder the 3 wires (one end on each) as shown in the Logging Port Assembly Instructions (posted on-line)
7. shape the wires
8. get all the plastic "chips" out of the box
9. install the D-connector (2 screws and nuts)
10. re-connect the AVR-CAN board
11. insert the 3 Logging Port wires (as shown)
12. check connections, re-insert the AVR-CAN board into the box, and check connections again
13. re-install the lid
14. test the SOC-Meter, then test Logging
15. some UB-to-RS232 adapters will not work well. A GOOD adapter will not produce "garbage" messages.
 
I'm sure this has been answered previously, but aside from wading through the entire thread I have no idea how to find the answer. So, is it possible for the SOC meter to work when the car is powered off?

If so, then by adding a transmitter or interfacing with a cell phone or small embedded computer, one could remotely query the *actual* state of charge, rather than the rough guess state of charge provided by carwings.
 
The SOC-Meter has an Always-On position (up) of its Power switch, but there is nothing for it to "read" (no CAN-bus activity) when the LEAF is totally OFF.

If the LEAF is ON, or in ACC2 mode, or Charging, then there is data to Read from the EV-CAN bus.
 
This is an update: I just wanted to let people know who have ScanGaugeIIs, the company that makes them is making progress on a LEAF version. All they have right now is the SOC shown as a percent (SOC = 79.2%). It's slow work and garygid is way ahead with his as far as the readouts are concerned. When they do finish it (have no idea when), you will be able to send in your ICE one and exchange it for a free LEAF one. It fits really well on top of the nav on the dash with velcro and the small OBD wire fits neatly inside the steering column.
 
LEAFfan said:
I just wanted to let people know who have ScanGaugeIIs, the company that makes them is making progress on a LEAF version.
Nice - I was going to sell my SG-II - I guess I'll hang on to it a bit longer now!
 
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