SOC-Meter Kit DIY Assembly

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Okie dokie!

evnow said:
mogur said:
I think what bothers me most about all of them is that the unlit segments are so obvious. I suspect it looks good at night when you can't see them but during the day, I find them distracting... Maybe it looks better in person...
Get this now - then you can "upgrade" to the bigger display I'm working on.
 
Once we get another good display (hopefully TTL UART serial interface) identified, and a box to fit it, I/we/someone should be able to make a mod-kit for those that want it. I will do it if I am able.

For now, we really need to identify other data that "many folks" will want to see, perhaps Tire Pressure, and ...
1. "all" the (interesting) cell-pair voltages and
2. the estimated internal resistances.

What other single-values might be interesting:
1. RPM of the Motor
2. "real" speed
3. Battery/Motor/etc. Current
4. Estimated Battery Capacity
5. ???

What do YOU really want to see?

For a few, seeing 4 (or more) variables might seem appealing, but CAN-Do on a laptop or netbook can already show many variables at one time.
 
High on my list is tire pressures, followed by battery capacity and battery voltages.

garygid said:
Once we get another good display (hopefully TTL UART serial interface) identified, and a box to fit it, I/we/someone should be able to make a mod-kit for those that want it. I will do it if I am able.

For now, we really need to identify other data that "many folks" will want to see, perhaps Tire Pressure, and ...
1. "all" the (interesting) cell-pair voltages and
2. the estimated internal resistances.

What other single-values might be interesting:
1. RPM of the Motor
2. "real" speed
3. Battery/Motor/etc. Current
4. Estimated Battery Capacity
5. ???

What do YOU really want to see?

For a few, seeing 4 (or more) variables might seem appealing, but CAN-Do on a laptop or netbook can already show many variables at one time.
 
mwalsh said:
I would think you'd be OK even at 65mph. But the wild-card is definitely the climb in and out of San Clemente. I will be really interested to see what you have to say following your journey - our trip to Naomi's daughters is mostly identical between Garden Grove and Carlsbad (actually around 10 miles less in total), and the San Clemente elevation change, both going and returning, is my biggest concern.
Yes, agreed. May make short leg to Laguna Beach (and 1-hr charge) heading down just for a little cushion and then to 'learn' terrain on the 5 Fwy segment between SJC and Torrey Pines. I think I can then make return trip in one leg @ 60-65 mph. I will make separate thread afterward, including trip profile.
 
JPVleaf said:
Sorry, this is OT, but so how was your return trip to SD? You left Wesoloh (SJCap) with 4-5 bars with 70 mi to return to SD? Did you top off somewhere else on the way back? What was your speed?

garygid said:
He planned to drive slowly on the 30-mile segment from Weseloh Nissan to Mossy Nissan Oceanside, and fuel again there.


I did a little write up, but the trip looked like this:

Started at 100%, returned to my garage in Turtle.
140.3 miles total driven at mostly 60mph on cruise control
3 hours 35 minutes of L2 charging total
30 minutes L1
4.4 miles/kw average

This was a max range / minimum time trip. In other words, the least amount of time spent charging to show up at the end empty.
 
Finished!

Thanks to Gary for the box with the rectangular hole. A bit of corner filing and I had a much more professional looking unit than I could have gotten by myself!

Gary, does the display have a protective film on it? Mine has something that kind of looks like it would peel off if I tried. But it's stuck on pretty good and I don't want to removing without finding out for sure what it is.

The 6' OBD II cable...I feel it's about 2' too long, even when I've properly routed it the way I wanted (up over the steering column). Give the choice of doing it again, I would probably chop it down to appropriate length. I may do that anyway, if Gary would consider selling me the replacement parts I would need that possibly wouldn't survive a round of de-soldering and then re-soldering - that would be the four switches, the D-sub connector, and the zenner diode. Or, I've just found his post with the sources, I could just go ahead and order some, whichever way would work best for Gary.

Also make sure that you put plenty of electrical tape on those cap switches. Even with tape, I did manage to get a short from one of the contacts there and my display wouldn't function. In fact, I'd put some tape across the back of the display circuit board too, once you've got it stuck in place.

228824_10150276973524844_704969843_7528493_6208732_n.jpg
 
Good work, Mike!
He has Kit #1 together and working.

Yes, I have replacement/spare parts available.

Three SOC Meter kits "out there", with:
1. Mike (Red Kit 6' cable) - working
2. Tony (Blue Kit 6')
3. Tom (Blue Kit 6')
4. Allen (Blue Kit 6')

I intend to build at least one SOC Meter tomorrow.
 
garygid said:
Once we get another good display (hopefully TTL UART serial interface) identified, and a box to fit it, I/we/someone should be able to make a mod-kit for those that want it. I will do it if I am able.

Let us start a new thread on that.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=5113
 
Very Good to start a new thread.

The Assembly Instructions for the SIC-Meter Kit (R1) have been improved, almost "final", and are now in a "pdf" file at:
www.wwwsite.com/puzzles/socmeter/
 
I don't want to be a party pooper, but hasn't this already been done, with the "scangauge" and customized codes developed for the Prius? Wouldn't you just need to modify the codes, for that, to show whatever you want on the scangauge? maybe I am missing the point here.

http://www.scangauge.com/
 
I believe that those people are working on something for the LEAF,
but I have not heard of anything actually working yet.
Please let us know if you hear of anything specifically for the LEAF.
 
mitch672 said:
I don't want to be a party pooper, but hasn't this already been done, with the "scangauge" and customized codes developed for the Prius? Wouldn't you just need to modify the codes, for that, to show whatever you want on the scangauge? maybe I am missing the point here.

http://www.scangauge.com/
Scangauge reads the std bus - not the EV bus.
 
Nope, they have nothing in the works that I am aware of or that they are admitting to (I've asked recently). Also, they use the OBDII port for the Scanguage II. To get this information, you have to use the CAN buss so it likely would require a whole new product from them to do what Gary is doing...

mitch672 said:
I don't want to be a party pooper, but hasn't this already been done, with the "scangauge" and customized codes developed for the Prius? Wouldn't you just need to modify the codes, for that, to show whatever you want on the scangauge? maybe I am missing the point here.

http://www.scangauge.com/
 
garygid said:
Good work, Mike!
He has Kit #1 together and working.

Three SOC Meter kits "out there", with:
1. Mike (Red Kit 6' cable) - working
2. Tony (Blue Kit 6')
3. Tom (Blue Kit 6')
4. Allen (Blue Kit 6')

I intend to build at least one SOC Meter tomorrow.
I have started assembly of kit #3. I might well not be done before I leave on my trip Wednesday, so I am going to post comments as I progress while the thoughts are fresh. I am using Rev7 of the assembly instructions.

1. I suggest you might want to start off with a list of required and recommended tools, comments about a good workspace and good lighting, and a review of good solder techniques. My wire stripper was just barely able to strip the small wire. Is it 24 gauge stranded ? You might want to consider pre-stripping the wire. I should not think that would add much to kit preparation time.

2. Although I have done small soldering/breadboard projects ever so often all my life, my main experience with kit-building was back in the dark ages, building mainly ever more sophisticated hi-fi systems featuring first vacuum tubes and then discrete transistors. These projects featured giant capacitors, 1/2 and 1 watt resistors, etc. Everything has shrunk tremendously, and it is not just my eyeballs. This kind of soldering is different, and my eyes do feel the strain. However, this is a short kit. In college (and earlier) I built kits taking 40 or more hours spread over weeks. If I can do this one, you younger folks with some experience should have no trouble.

3. I elected to start with what looked like the easiest steps, and then progress to the harder steps as I gained confidence. I put aside the cable, and first soldered as sub-assemblies the proper single color wires going (in order) to:
a. red and black push-buttons. As stated these terminals do not require much soldering heat.
b. the SPDT switch
c. the DPDT switch
The switch terminals seem to require more heat. Rather than holding the soldering tip longer on the terminals, I cranked up the tip temperature.

I use a rubber-jawed vise to hold these small parts while I solder wires to the terminals. After soldering, I inspect the terminals very carefully with strong lighting to be sure the solder has flowed well.

d. the display
This looked scary, because the terminal holes are very close together, you don't want any solder "bridges," and you want to solder quickly to minimize how much heat conducts into the delicate circuitry. However, it went easier than I expected.

e. the cable
This is where I am now. I needed good lighting just to identify all 16 colors. I don't quite understand the warning about color on pg 2:

WARNING: The wire COLORS listed below (for OBD pin numbers) are from the cable Part Number 142601 (or 142602) spec sheet, from http://www.OBD2cables.com and are likely to be different unless you are using a different cable.
Do you mean to say the colors are likely to be different IF you use a different cable ?

Stay tuned for the next installment.
 
tbleakne said:
My wire stripper was just barely able to strip the small wire. Is it 24 gauge stranded ? You might want to consider pre-stripping the wire. I should not think that would add much to kit preparation time.

I generally use an Xacto knife or razor blade to remove the insulation on very small cables. Shaving it off, much like you would sharpen a pencil.
 
mwalsh said:
The 6' OBD II cable...I feel it's about 2' too long, even when I've properly routed it the way I wanted (up over the steering column). Give the choice of doing it again, I would probably chop it down to appropriate length.
Before I proceed further with the cable, I took it to the car to try this route. It looks real nice. You want to keep the cable well away from your feet for safety. This route does this, and the cable fits into a groove around the steering column where it is barely noticeable to the casual eye. With the full 6', the cable forms two loops that take up space around the iPod and cell-phone charging points and intrude into the passenger's leg area.

With this route, I can keep the SOC unit installed all the time, except for the times I take the car into the dealer :) . My measurement suggests that I shorten the cable about 15". Perhaps I can shorten a little more, but 2' off would seem to be running a risk of taking off too much.

Is there any reason I am missing for keeping the full 6' ?
 
Just the inconvenience of cutting the cable and stripping the wires.

I leave extra slack in mine to put the SOC Meter up on the dash,
facing forward, and turned to "Always ON" ... when I am charging.
 
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