gascant
Well-known member
Cool. The data logging port is also useful as it saves a lot of screwing/unscrewing and worry. I've got one test drive under my belt using CAN-Do 1.52.squirrelmeat said:
SOC-Meter Kit DIY Assembly
- Thread starter garygid
- Start date
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squirrelmeat
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2010
- Messages
- 37
gascant said:
There will be a data logging port. The hole has been cut and the connector is a force fit in the hole. I just need to find some hardware, screws and nuts. There is a lack of old PCs or boards I can raid both at home and here at the San Jose Techshop.
Carl
garygid
Well-known member
There is now a "Logging Port Option" to go along with the
SOC-Meter Kit, which includes the parts (for $10 extra).
There are instructions and a Hole Template on my web site:
http://www.wwwsite.com/puzzles/socmeter/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
SOC-Meter Kit, which includes the parts (for $10 extra).
There are instructions and a Hole Template on my web site:
http://www.wwwsite.com/puzzles/socmeter/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
gascant
Well-known member
Not sure if this is the right thread to post (just let me know otherwise), but this weekend I was trying to record my trip to Napa and I was obtaining Run Time errors a couple minutes (or less) into the session. I was discouraged because, just one day earlier, I had successfully recorded a 15 minute trip spanning about 6 miles. Have you seen this before? I don't think I entered the wrong port for the USB adapter, though in retrospect, I might not have deleted the ports for the other buses.
TickTock
Well-known member
I get errors whenever I try to monitor messages. If I don't have any other windows up other than the IO control I am able to avoid them (just click "count messages" to monitor that it is actually capturing data).
garygid
Well-known member
Please put CAN-Do usage problems in the "CAN-Do: Usage Problems" thread. Thanks.
highcountryrider
Well-known member
I finally got around to assembling my SOC meter kit last night and plugged it in today.
Works just fine except for some operator errors.
I "hacked the hack" as far as the mechanics go. Mostly moved things around some to
increase clearances within the box. First, I got out the Dremel and cut out some of the
ribs on the top and bottom inside the box so that I could lay the board flat against the
back. I also cut a hole for the RS-232 DB-9 connector to make it accessible from the
side of the box and, at the same time, move the board over a little to make more room
for the switches and cable. (This does make the box less tight and might not be a good
idea for some situations.) I repositioned the switches a little as well.
I secured the board with two self tapping screws in opposite corners. Very short screws
clear the pins and the connectors on the bottom, and I just bent the unused pins on the
top connector to assure safe clearance. I mounted the display flush with glue. The hole for the
cable is a tight fit and has a large ty-wrap on the inside of the box to keep it from
pulling out.
Works just fine except for some operator errors.
I "hacked the hack" as far as the mechanics go. Mostly moved things around some to
increase clearances within the box. First, I got out the Dremel and cut out some of the
ribs on the top and bottom inside the box so that I could lay the board flat against the
back. I also cut a hole for the RS-232 DB-9 connector to make it accessible from the
side of the box and, at the same time, move the board over a little to make more room
for the switches and cable. (This does make the box less tight and might not be a good
idea for some situations.) I repositioned the switches a little as well.
I secured the board with two self tapping screws in opposite corners. Very short screws
clear the pins and the connectors on the bottom, and I just bent the unused pins on the
top connector to assure safe clearance. I mounted the display flush with glue. The hole for the
cable is a tight fit and has a large ty-wrap on the inside of the box to keep it from
pulling out.
garygid
Well-known member
Nice pictures, inventive placement.
Nice work wiring the switches.
Several improvements, but two possible difficulties:
1. The RS232 connection (for Logging) might not have enough clearance for some/many RS232-to-USB adapters to physically connect.
2. Access to the JTAG 10-pin port on the board (for firmware updates) now requires more disassembly.
However, Thanks for sharing what you did.
Cheers, Gary
Nice work wiring the switches.
Several improvements, but two possible difficulties:
1. The RS232 connection (for Logging) might not have enough clearance for some/many RS232-to-USB adapters to physically connect.
2. Access to the JTAG 10-pin port on the board (for firmware updates) now requires more disassembly.
However, Thanks for sharing what you did.
Cheers, Gary
garygid
Well-known member
Variations I have adopted:
1. In "gluing" the Display in place, the RTV "glue" is not ideal. It takes about 24 hours to cure, possibly more if the "glob" is thick. But, more than Crazy Glue, it allows the Display to be replaced, if necessary. So, I use a bit more glue, but spread it around on the black plastic to increase the contact area, making the "glob" thinner, and hopefully getting better adhesion. Possibly, wiping the black plastic with alcohol, or even roughing the surface a bit with sandpaper would help.
2. I now mount the two switches with their "star" lockwashers under the outside nuts. To provide enough exposed threads, I make sure the inside nut is screwed down toward the body of the switch "enough" (more than finger tight). This seems to give a much more secure mounting of the two switches, and is easy to do.
3. To keep the short (about 1/4" to 3/8") end of the OBD cable from pulling out (even though the ridge on the screwed-on lid tends to "clamp" the cable), I now stick two tapered toothpick-ends about 1/4" into the short open end of the cable, just under the outer sheath of the cable. Then I break the toothpicks off, leaving the two tapered ends in the cable, increasing its diameter inside the box just enough so that it is virtually impossible to pull out. This "trick" seems to work well.
4. I now add the Filter Frame, CAREFULLY drilling two 1/16" diameter holes for the two mounting screws. I center the fame vertically (to look good), and CAREFULLY position the just-barely-wide-enough center slot of the frame over the display, so that the digits on both ends can be seen. When the side edges of the holder's "viewing" slot are "exactly" lined up with (centered over) the ends of the display, it seems to work well. Yes, I would rather have a holder with a 1/4" to 1/2" wider slot, but I have been unable to find any. Yes, suggestions are welcome.
5. I made an inexpensive soldering "jig" out of an empty tissue box, turning it upside down and cutting some holes and slots to hold the push-buttons, switches, and the D9 connector as I solder to them.
Cheers, Gary
1. In "gluing" the Display in place, the RTV "glue" is not ideal. It takes about 24 hours to cure, possibly more if the "glob" is thick. But, more than Crazy Glue, it allows the Display to be replaced, if necessary. So, I use a bit more glue, but spread it around on the black plastic to increase the contact area, making the "glob" thinner, and hopefully getting better adhesion. Possibly, wiping the black plastic with alcohol, or even roughing the surface a bit with sandpaper would help.
2. I now mount the two switches with their "star" lockwashers under the outside nuts. To provide enough exposed threads, I make sure the inside nut is screwed down toward the body of the switch "enough" (more than finger tight). This seems to give a much more secure mounting of the two switches, and is easy to do.
3. To keep the short (about 1/4" to 3/8") end of the OBD cable from pulling out (even though the ridge on the screwed-on lid tends to "clamp" the cable), I now stick two tapered toothpick-ends about 1/4" into the short open end of the cable, just under the outer sheath of the cable. Then I break the toothpicks off, leaving the two tapered ends in the cable, increasing its diameter inside the box just enough so that it is virtually impossible to pull out. This "trick" seems to work well.
4. I now add the Filter Frame, CAREFULLY drilling two 1/16" diameter holes for the two mounting screws. I center the fame vertically (to look good), and CAREFULLY position the just-barely-wide-enough center slot of the frame over the display, so that the digits on both ends can be seen. When the side edges of the holder's "viewing" slot are "exactly" lined up with (centered over) the ends of the display, it seems to work well. Yes, I would rather have a holder with a 1/4" to 1/2" wider slot, but I have been unable to find any. Yes, suggestions are welcome.
5. I made an inexpensive soldering "jig" out of an empty tissue box, turning it upside down and cutting some holes and slots to hold the push-buttons, switches, and the D9 connector as I solder to them.
Cheers, Gary
highcountryrider
Well-known member
Yes, the RS-232 may not work with all types of plugs for sure. One could make the hole a
bit larger on the side and cut a notch in the bottom as well. There is the problem of dust
and dirt entering though.
I did use super glue on the display. I have had good luck being able to break it loose in
other projects. I use just a tiny bit on the end of a stick, and only on each corner; it's
not really very strong. Time will tell if it holds. :?
The board comes out pretty easy, I do have to remove the black PB, but then just loosen
the two screws, slide left, lift the right end and slide it out.
I like the toothpick idea. I think I will use it in combination with the ty-wrap on a future
project. Sometimes the ty-wrap can slip off.
I considered mounting the display separately, which would be very easy because it only
uses the three wires. But then there are the switches. Someone might come up with a
neat way to do that, but my ideas on that just didn't seem very practical.
At any rate, cudos for the design. It's nice and uncomplicated physically - all the magic
is in the firmware.
bit larger on the side and cut a notch in the bottom as well. There is the problem of dust
and dirt entering though.
I did use super glue on the display. I have had good luck being able to break it loose in
other projects. I use just a tiny bit on the end of a stick, and only on each corner; it's
not really very strong. Time will tell if it holds. :?
The board comes out pretty easy, I do have to remove the black PB, but then just loosen
the two screws, slide left, lift the right end and slide it out.
I like the toothpick idea. I think I will use it in combination with the ty-wrap on a future
project. Sometimes the ty-wrap can slip off.
I considered mounting the display separately, which would be very easy because it only
uses the three wires. But then there are the switches. Someone might come up with a
neat way to do that, but my ideas on that just didn't seem very practical.
At any rate, cudos for the design. It's nice and uncomplicated physically - all the magic
is in the firmware.
garygid
Well-known member
I just added a picture of a finished SOC-Meter to the first post.
This one does not have the Filter Holder, which actualy makes it
look "more finished", and the filter makes it readable in sunlight.
This one does not have the Filter Holder, which actualy makes it
look "more finished", and the filter makes it readable in sunlight.
gascant
Well-known member
Nice photo--I tried to take shots of mine in place this past weekend, but apparently I could not hold the camera steady enough for long enough. It worked when I did it without the logging port, though. Maybe I should stop drinking.....garygid said:
highcountryrider
Well-known member
Looks good!
:shock:gascant said:
I have one of these and it works great.
What I would like to see in a future version is one screen that shows volts, amps, SOC and GID count all at the same time.
Why should I have to cycle through these to see them one at a time ?
What I would like to see in a future version is one screen that shows volts, amps, SOC and GID count all at the same time.
Why should I have to cycle through these to see them one at a time ?
garygid
Well-known member
Glad to hear that your GID/SOC-Meter works well.
There have been some units made that have a 2x16 character
LCD (display), which show basically what you asked for.
Most people only look at "other" variables only rarely, and
the brighter, sunlight-usable, filtered LED display is usually
sufficient for most users.
Usually, a two-line OLED display is brighter, and has better
contrast than the LCD, so I might use that at some point.
Others have made some similar units with the OLED display.
Then, there are color graphical displays... see what the CANary
is using, two 320 x 240 color touch-screen displays.
There have been some units made that have a 2x16 character
LCD (display), which show basically what you asked for.
Most people only look at "other" variables only rarely, and
the brighter, sunlight-usable, filtered LED display is usually
sufficient for most users.
Usually, a two-line OLED display is brighter, and has better
contrast than the LCD, so I might use that at some point.
Others have made some similar units with the OLED display.
Then, there are color graphical displays... see what the CANary
is using, two 320 x 240 color touch-screen displays.
