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It's a bit confusing to talk about charge bars and capacity bars in the same post, and the charge bars really don't add any info if you have the SOC %, so just focus on that. If you knew how far the car had gone on that 22% charge used, THAT would be useful. And, of course, the range estimator is near useless. Has the car in question had the BMS update?
 
Dyno1 said:
range indicating 127kms on the gauge , is that a good battery ? Would I ad 6.25% for the 11th bar to get available range ( adding 6.25% shows approximately 134km range)
You will be highly disappointed if you believe the GOM ("range indicator"). It's value does not reflect reality and the value it reports is vastly inflated.

Your actual range will depend upon how "chill" (efficient) a driver you are. These range charts are useful for new LEAF drivers, as they give you an estimated range based upon the speed you drive and the efficiency you achieve:
https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=4295

As some who will be new to the LEAF, consider using the middle column for your efficiency (3.9 mi/kWh or 6.2 km/kWh), or possibly the one to the right of it.
 
Thank you for the charts, those are great. Definitely gives my an idea of he range. Took a few minutes to figure out what I was looking at , but I think I figured it out lol
 
I am looking to purchase a OBD2 reader to use with Leafspy, any recommendations for one that works well with Leafspy.
 
Just saw your message after I bought one. I ordered Lelink obd2 which is Leafspy approved and works with android and Iphone. Cost was $38 dollars Canadian on Amazon. Ill look up the one you have also.
 
Many reviews on the Lelink from people who purchased saying it works great with Leafspy. Now I just need to find a Leaf to use it with :) Hopefully sooner than later.
 
This 11 bar 2015 S in Nanaimo looks pretty good:

https://www.autotrader.ca/a/nissan/leaf/nanaimo/british%20columbia/5_52879267_20130508094359657/?showcpo=ShowCpo&ncse=no&showVs=1&orup=5_7_7&pc=V2X%209B1&sprx=250

It also has the charge package, which adds DC fast charging capability.
 
Thank you for the link to the one in Nanaimo. I had seen it earlier but would prefer an SV or SL model.
 
So the dealership that drops of vehicle at home has a $600 prep fee on top of asking price . The private 2017 said they’d do $20500 for it and the dealer wants $20990 plus the $600 prep fee . Cars are basically identical besides the colour. After taxes on both , buying from the dealer is about $1200 more ( Canadian dollars ) . What’s your thoughts on buying private vs dealer. Taxes are 12% regardless who you buy from . Is it better to buy from a dealer and pay a bit more to get a piece of mind that it has been inspected and any defects fixed plus a 90 day warranty or go private taking a chance that there could be issues and having no recourse with a private deal but save some money.
 
I should clarify that the dealer I mentioned is an online where they bring the car to you , so you can't see it up front. the normal dealerships out here( where you can go see and test drive) don't have many available and when they get them they are asking a fair amount ( $3000- $4000) more because they know the cars are in demand and the inventory is low.
 
I wouldn't be convinced that any defects were fixed, but if you think the dealer would honor the 90 day warranty, I'd go that route - all other things being equal. Also, make sure that whatever car you buy has TWO key fobs, as they are expensive. Does that dealer buy cars from auctions? Because probably the #1 place that resets Leaf capacity bars is car auctions. Try a VIN check (they may provide a free Carfax) to see if the car passed through an auction.
 
I am not sold on the dealers saying they have gone through the car and fixed the defects, they do get some of their cars from auction. I was thinking of going to see the private for sale Leaf. They say its in excellent condition and the car fax shows no accidents. The seller bought it in 2019 from a local dealer, they said that they have done no maintenance since they have owned it. It has just dropped to 11 bars from 12 and on a full charge get 156 kms in range and useable 80% 125kms.They only charge it level 1 & 2. What should I be looking for if I go see it. Probably won't be able to do a SOH on the battery. Should I be concerned they haven't done any maintenance to it since they have owned it. They said from what they looked into, the dealer does do much when to car is brought in for maintenance.
 
The 2017, if no maintenance was EVER done, should have a brake system flush for about $200. It it's just been left alone since 2019, then aside from maybe still needing the flush if it was never done, it should be ok. Brakes on Leafs last a long time because of regenerative braking. They do get surface rust on the rotors while parked, though, so what feels like grinding brakes is usually just the rust, which should go away after a few stops, unlike the noise from actual worn out brakes. If the BMS update was never done, or was done many months or even a couple of years ago, then 11 bars should mean that the pack is good. You should have a dealer or Nissan's EV Help Line run the VIN, to see if the update was done. Make sure that the heater throws out lots of heat. Which packages does the 2017 have? A 'stripped' SV should still have the heat pump, but the Premium Package adds a great 4 camera parking system, and a better stereo, so that increases the value of the car.
 
I am having trouble locating the carfax the seller sent me, it’s somewhere in my email . Info recall it showing serviced prior to the current owners so maybe the brake fluid has been done . It’s has the Bose sound system and birds eye view camera.As always I appreciate the information you provide and your help. I am definitely more knowledgeable on the Leafs and you are a large reason why :)
 
Going be be seeing the 2017 this week. Question regarding charging . Can you use an extension cord if charging with 120v ?
 
Only if it's 12 gauge, is plugged into a good outlet, and is on a circuit that has 1500 watts free. There is more risk in doing that because it disables the charging cable's outlet heat sensor, and because extension cords, if not routed very well, get tripped over, stepped on, cut, etc..
 
Ok , thank you . Another question , what amperage for the breaker would be required and how many amps does a leaf use to charge on a 110 outlet? Does the circuit have to be a dedicated circuit just for charging ? I have an older home , so I don’t want to go out and buy a leaf and then find out I can’t even trucks charge it .
 
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