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In "normal" circumstances there shouldn't be hydrogen venting from any modern car battery, AGM or standard Lead-Calcium. But apparently it still can happen often enough to be a safety issue.

Given the results of a spark if the battery does emit hydrogen, it's not worth chancing unless you want to learn braille.

Yes, it's safe for the charging system to connect the negative leads to the same location where the battery terminates, just not on the battery negative itself (this puts it on the wrong side of the current sensor).

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
In "normal" circumstances there shouldn't be hydrogen venting from any modern car battery, AGM or standard Lead-Calcium. But apparently it still can happen often enough to be a safety issue.

Given the results of a spark if the battery does emit hydrogen, it's not worth chancing unless you want to learn braille.

Yes, it's safe for the charging system to connect the negative leads to the same location where the battery terminates, just not on the battery negative itself (this puts it on the wrong side of the current sensor).

-Phil

Thanks for the reply, I was trying to get an image of the location I'd like to use.

P1420293.jpg


I like the shiny bracket on the left. No paint on it. It seems I can screw an eyelet there for a permanent connection or simply an alligator clip for the temp connection.
I'll keep in mind that any connection should be made at an end as far away as possible from the battery but also to let the hood up for a while and let any gases vent/blow away before attempting a connection.

Good rules to follow?
 
foolios" The termination for the negative is elsewhere but the actual connection that is going to make a spark is right at the quick connection point said:
You'd want to connect/disconnect the inverter when there was no load on it/it's off thus avoiding any sparking.
 
QueenBee said:
You'd want to connect/disconnect the inverter when there was no load on it/it's off thus avoiding any sparking.
Problem is most inverters have large electrolytic filter capacitors on the input, so when they are connected, there is a big "pop". The only way to avoid this would be to rig a sealed contactor in series with a ~500 ohm precharge resistor in parallel. This isn't a bad idea anyway, this way the contactor can be hooked to a +12v "ignition" source so if the LEAF shuts off (low traction battery) it will also shut off the inverter, thus saving your 12 volt.

-Phil
 
foolios said:
I like the shiny bracket on the left. No paint on it. It seems I can screw an eyelet there for a permanent connection or simply an alligator clip for the temp connection.
I'll keep in mind that any connection should be made at an end as far away as possible from the battery but also to let the hood up for a while and let any gases vent/blow away before attempting a connection.

Good rules to follow?
Looks fine to me. Since when the LEAF is on, the power is coming out of that aluminum box, and not the battery itself, this is fine.

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
foolios said:
I like the shiny bracket on the left. No paint on it. It seems I can screw an eyelet there for a permanent connection or simply an alligator clip for the temp connection.
I'll keep in mind that any connection should be made at an end as far away as possible from the battery but also to let the hood up for a while and let any gases vent/blow away before attempting a connection.

Good rules to follow?
Looks fine to me. Since when the LEAF is on, the power is coming out of that aluminum box, and not the battery itself, this is fine.

-Phil

Are you calling the DC-DC converter the aluminum box or that bracket I have a pointer to?

You'd want to connect/disconnect the inverter when there was no load on it/it's off thus avoiding any sparking.

So add this step too?

Problem is most inverters have large electrolytic filter capacitors on the input, so when they are connected, there is a big "pop". The only way to avoid this would be to rig a sealed contactor in series with a ~500 ohm precharge resistor in parallel. This isn't a bad idea anyway, this way the contactor can be hooked to a +12v "ignition" source so if the LEAF shuts off (low traction battery) it will also shut off the inverter, thus saving your 12 volt.

Man, I'd like to see this done.
 
foolios said:
[
You'd want to connect/disconnect the inverter when there was no load on it/it's off thus avoiding any sparking.

So add this step too?

Problem is most inverters have large electrolytic filter capacitors on the input, so when they are connected, there is a big "pop". The only way to avoid this would be to rig a sealed contactor in series with a ~500 ohm precharge resistor in parallel. This isn't a bad idea anyway, this way the contactor can be hooked to a +12v "ignition" source so if the LEAF shuts off (low traction battery) it will also shut off the inverter, thus saving your 12 volt.

Man, I'd like to see this done.

I think using an inverter that had an on/of switch would avoid the need for that right?
 
QueenBee said:
foolios said:
[
You'd want to connect/disconnect the inverter when there was no load on it/it's off thus avoiding any sparking.

So add this step too?

Problem is most inverters have large electrolytic filter capacitors on the input, so when they are connected, there is a big "pop". The only way to avoid this would be to rig a sealed contactor in series with a ~500 ohm precharge resistor in parallel. This isn't a bad idea anyway, this way the contactor can be hooked to a +12v "ignition" source so if the LEAF shuts off (low traction battery) it will also shut off the inverter, thus saving your 12 volt.

Man, I'd like to see this done.

I think using an inverter that had an on/of switch would avoid the need for that right?

Hmm, I'm wondering if the capacitor is loaded before the switch though. I think the last time I created one of my breadboard projects I had the capacitor right at the power input across the + and - rails to smooth out voltage and the switch I was using was later on down the chain. And I'm guessing that since the capacitor will discharge over time when unplugged, that once I plugged it back in that capacitor is gonna prep for when the circuit turns on.

I don't know jack but I'm wondering if you have the solution. I do hope so, hehe
 
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