Revision 2 upgrade for Nissan EVSE - Allows full level 2!

[davewill]

...here's my current favorite: Take a paperclip and insert it into the 2 small holes in the J1772 handle, then you use the button on the handle to cycle through the modes (the LED's will indicate which mode) then when you pull the paperclip, the mode is saved to EEPROM.

The industrious owners can then open their handle and install a momentary switch that does the same function without need of a paperclip...

I like this one a lot because it's bulletproof for unsophisticated users. I can set it for the mode I want, and there's zero danger my wife or daughters could accidentally change it during normal use. I agree that most people will pick one 240v rate and leave it there. The people who would be changing it all the time are probably also the ones who wouldn't be put off by the paperclip.

 

[LEAFer]

I don't like the resistor to program method, instead here's my current favorite: Take a paperclip and insert it into the 2 small holes in the J1772 handle, then you use the button on the handle to cycle through the modes (the LED's will indicate which mode) then when you pull the paperclip, the mode is saved to EEPROM.

Please elaborate on what you mean by "2 small holes in the J1772 handle". Are you refering to CP & CS pins inside the connector plug ?

Can you do a "Enter current programming mode" in software by

1. Holding down the button for 10 seconds.

...

I like that method. Or the 2x 5seconds.

 

[GeekEV]

The paperclip method seems fine to me if the unit defaults to the 16A 240v, 12A 120v as you last post said. That way most people will never even need to know it exists. And those that do know, won't be afraid of using a paperclip... It seems any further discussion on how to handle it would jus be going in circles.

Done and sold. Make it so! :lol:

 

[Ingineer]

Please elaborate on what you mean by "2 small holes in the J1772 handle". Are you refering to CP & CS pins inside the connector plug ?

Correct. A simple piece of solid #18 wire fits nicely. Jumpering these pins enables the EVSE to then detect the position of the release button on the handle.

-Phil

 

[ElectricVehicle]

Can you do a "Enter current programming mode" in software by

1. Holding down the button for 10 seconds.

The only "button" on the whole thing is the release button switch, and it is not connected to the EVSE electronics at all, hence the need for the paperclip. There is no way to detect it at present without doing that.

Again, I will not consider any upgrade that involves adding or changing additional hardware, it's got to be firmware only.

Keep in mind, the paperclip would not be something used often. The Rev 2 will ship with 16a mode for 240v and 12a mode for 120v. For most people they will never need to mess with it. If you do ever need to use less than that, then at least you have the option, and all you need is a paperclip.

The only other way to "talk" to the EVSE w/o adding hardware is by plugging/unplugging the J handle in a certain sequence. I haven't been able come up with anything else.

Ahh, I get it, the paperclip completes the connection from release button switch to the EVSE. If I had been studying the spec in my dreams, I would have known that!

You could also do some crazy scheme of a plugging and unplugging sequence of the EVSE into the outlet (power to the EVSE). That messes / interacts with the power up self test but avoids the paper clip.

We could also just have a little insulated copper wire bent into the right shape with the insulation stripped only to expose the area that mates with the contacts shipped with each programmable EVSE. It would be nice to avoid the bare skin touches bare metal that touches an electrical contact. Also having the wire pre-formed and the right gauge to mate reliably with the contacts means it's easier to insert into the correct contacts and for the casual user to always put it into the correct contacts. I'm trying to think of some easy wat make a jig or a handle for the jumper to keep it in shape and easy to use, but I'm drawing blanks, especially when the competing solutions is a free (free cost, 5 seconds of labor by the user) paper clip.

 

[garygid]

So,
"Proposed Paperclip Programming Procedure Passes Peer Perusal"?
GREAT, Phil!

Now, a symbolic reverse-compiler?

 

[Ingineer]

Can you do a "Enter current programming mode" in software by

1. Holding down the button for 10 seconds.

...

I like that method. Or the 2x 5seconds.

Not without the jumper! If the jumper is present, we don't need a delay. It can work as I described above.

If you are feeling industrious you could easily cast a "handle" for your jumper out of bondo or something similar. If you are that capable, you could also add a momentary switch to the handle.

-Phil

 

[Ingineer]

Now, a symbolic reverse-compiler?

I am re-writing the firmware from scratch. I have totally reverse-engineered the EVSE, so this is much easier than trying to patch their firmware. In fact, I don't like how they do certain things, and I can also make the unit safer and more compatible while I'm at it. (this will fix the Chevy Volt issue)

-Phil

 

[popak]

The paperclip method seems fine to me if the unit defaults to the 16A 240v, 12A 120v as you last post said. That way most people will never even need to know it exists. And those that do know, won't be afraid of using a paperclip...

I agree with this. That way, the average user (like my wife) can just plug in the EVSE in either a 120V or 240V without thinking about it and get the 12A or 16A automatically.

The above average user who understands enough about 15A vs 20A circuits would know how to use the paperclip properly.

Worst case scenario, someone accidentally plugs the EVSE into a (rare) 240V 15A circuit, an already-loaded 240V 20A circuit, or to a Quick240 unit on two 120V 15A circuits and trips the breaker? What's the safety issues in that? So the breaker trips, go get a paperclip, reset the breaker, and try again, no?

 

[ElectricVehicle]

Now, a symbolic reverse-compiler?

I am re-writing the firmware from scratch. I have totally reverse-engineered the EVSE, so this is much easier than trying to patch their firmware. In fact, I don't like how they do certain things, and I can also make the unit safer and more compatible while I'm at it. (this will fix the Chevy Volt issue)

-Phil

Cool! The Nissan EVSE could become the open source favorite of EVSE's like the WRT54G router was! Be nice to get the firmware back to Panasonic / Nissan for their production units but fair compensation, liability and not invented here mentality would probably make that impossible...

Hey Phil, when you're done with the Rev 2, maybe there's something you can do about the firmware and certification of the Vacaville Level 3 Quick Charge station!! :lol: :shock:

 

[Ingineer]

Cool! The Nissan EVSE could become the open source favorite of EVSE's like the WRT54G router was! Be nice to get the firmware back to Panasonic / Nissan for their production units but fair compensation, liability and not invented here mentality would probably make that impossible...

Hey Phil, when you're done with the Rev 2, maybe there's something you can do about the firmware and certification of the Vacaville Level 3 Quick Charge station!! :lol: :shock:

Yeah, I don't see Panasonic talking to me at all.

I have ideas for a low-cost module which will interface the CHAdeMO protocol with readily available standard dumb charger, such as a Manzanita PFC-50 ($3.5k). This would enable 12kW charging at home. Or you can add another $900 and get 18kW. But this should be another (future) topic, as I have my hands full right now! Anyone tried to source a CHAdeMO connector? Replacements should be readily available in Japan given how many are installed there.

-Phil

 

[DaveEV]

The paperclip method seems fine to me if the unit defaults to the 16A 240v, 12A 120v as you last post said. That way most people will never even need to know it exists. And those that do know, won't be afraid of using a paperclip... It seems any further discussion on how to handle it would jus be going in circles.

Done and sold. Make it so! :lol:

Yep, I agree. My only suggestion would be an option to default to 12A 240v for those people who plan on using a Quick220 on 2 15A circuits for those afraid of sticking paper clips in things.

 

[Ingineer]

The paperclip method seems fine to me if the unit defaults to the 16A 240v, 12A 120v as you last post said. That way most people will never even need to know it exists. And those that do know, won't be afraid of using a paperclip... It seems any further discussion on how to handle it would jus be going in circles.

Done and sold. Make it so! :lol:

Yep, I agree. My only suggestion would be an option to default to 12A 240v for those people who plan on using a Quick220 on 2 15A circuits for those afraid of sticking paper clips in things.

If that is the case, then they simply order a rev 1 upgrade and be done with it.

-Phil

 

[ElectricVehicle]

Worst case scenario, someone accidentally plugs the EVSE into a (rare) 240V 15A circuit, an already-loaded 240V 20A circuit, or to a Quick240 unit on two 120V 15A circuits and trips the breaker? What's the safety issues in that? So the breaker trips, go get a paperclip, reset the breaker, and try again, no?

If you trip the breaker at a Hotel, work, business, library, etc... it can be a big deal when something else important on the circuit goes off - lights, cash register, etc.

Or you trip the breaker after hours or at a place that is unattended and the breaker is physically inaccessible, like inside a locked building or closet. In some locations, getting a breaker reset can take days or weeks. This is a real issue that we've been dealing with in existing EV charging infrastructure, where it actually has taken days or weeks to contact the right person at a site and get their facilities people to schedule a visit.

At home, for someone who knows where the panel is and how to identify the tripped breaker and reset it, it's a non-issue to reset the circuit breaker. My spouse wouldn't know how to do that, but I could walk her through it over the phone.

 

[TEG]

I have ideas for a low-cost module which will interface the CHAdeMO protocol with readily available standard dumb charger, such as a Manzanita PFC-50 ($3.5k). This would enable 12kW charging at home. Or you can add another $900 and get 18kW. But this should be another (future) topic, as I have my hands full right now!...

I look forward to buying something like that someday!

 

[popak]

If you trip the breaker at a Hotel, work, business, library, etc... it can be a big deal when something else important on the circuit goes off - lights, cash register, etc.

Yeah, I am not denying that it would be nice to have the option to select the amps.

But 240V/16A and 120V/12A works in like 99% of scenarios. And, if you're unsure if 16A would be safe to pull from an outlet at the library or a hotel, then paperclip it down to 12A (assuming that's a simple enough option for Phil to offer).

If one doesn't like paperclips, then always use EVSE Rev2 in trusted outlets and Rev1 in untrusted ones

All I was trying to say is that leaving 240V/16A on by default is not exactly a safety hazard. Yeah, may be quite inconvenient if you don't have access to the breaker. But it's not like the EVSE or your car is going to blow up

 

[ElectricVehicle]

If you trip the breaker at a Hotel, work, business, library, etc... it can be a big deal when something else important on the circuit goes off - lights, cash register, etc.

Yeah, I am not denying that it would be nice to have the option to select the amps.

But 240V/16A and 120V/12A works in like 99% of scenarios. And, if you're unsure if 16A would be safe to pull from an outlet at the library or a hotel, then paperclip it down to 12A (assuming that's a simple enough option for Phil to offer).

If one doesn't like paperclips, then always use EVSE Rev2 in trusted outlets and Rev1 in untrusted ones

All I was trying to say is that leaving 240V/16A on by default is not exactly a safety hazard. Yeah, may be quite inconvenient if you don't have access to the breaker. But it's not like the EVSE or your car is going to blow up

Agreed. Sometimes it's an inconvenience issue but it's not a safety issue.

 

[davewill]

If one doesn't like paperclips, then always use EVSE Rev2 in trusted outlets and Rev1 in untrusted ones

All I was trying to say is that leaving 240V/16A on by default is not exactly a safety hazard. Yeah, may be quite inconvenient if you don't have access to the breaker. But it's not like the EVSE or your car is going to blow up

Agreed. Sometimes it's an inconvenience issue but it's not a safety issue.

The only <20a 240v circuits out there that I'm aware of is the Quick220. Anyone using that device is not going to balk at using the paperclip. 120v charging is limited to 12a by the LEAF, and from what Phil said he may be able to have the EVSE detect 120v operation and enforce 12a operation, as well.

As far as shared circuits, 240v circuits usually aren't shared among multiple receptacles. In fact, I'm not even sure it's within code to wire them that way. They are usually for a single appliance (welder, dryer, stove, A/C, EVSE) with a high current draw. 120v circuits are often shared, but even the unmodified L1 EVSE shouldn't be used on a 15a 120v circuit that has other devices plugged in.

 

[Ingineer]

I have used my homebrew Quick220 in many different scenarios, and my Plug-in Prius sucks about 16a from 240v (same as a LEAF), and I've never blown anything. Even works in old Victorians that are the better part of a century old and only have two 20A circuits in the whole place! (There was a refrigerator on one circuit still and some small loads, lights, wall-warts, etc.) Interestingly enough, in that house the lights didn't even dim as much as when the microwave is normally used. (Leaving neutral alone helps!)

It's very rare to find only 15a circuits, or 20a circuits continuously loaded enough to trip a breaker (or pop a fuse) as the case may be. For instance, most fridges (including Coke machines, etc) present very high start up loads but only briefly, then they settle down to 2-4 amps usually. Most circuit breakers and fuses will tolerate this without problem.

Having a space heater, a microwave, toaster, etc. operating on the same circuit will pop something though. (ask me how I know! =)

-Phil

 

[smkettner]

I think you are better to accept the limitations and just go with 12a 120v and 16a 240v.
I prefer simple design and usability.

20a & 240.... you are designing for what does not exist. Save that for next year for the Focus or three years down the road on Leaf.
Same as 16a 120v..... would seem few circuits are rated 20a these days. Although there are a few that could use it.