Nissan L1 EVSE third-party upgrade to both 120V and 240V

[Ingineer]

ok still waiting for PICTURES.

how long is the 120 Volt "extension?" with the free plugins around my area, having the brick so close to the plug makes it tough to plug in a lot of places. if that 120 Volt adapter had a 3 foot lead on it, that would work out VERY well.

as far as "tongue in cheek" cmon, we all have to use "some" common sense. obvious is obvious and the best jokes is how long it takes the "ah ha!" to set in. longer than a minute usually creates a bad reaction simply because we are that way. the reception is when the "ah ha" moment happens within 5-10 seconds.

In order to keep the EVSE as within spec as possible, we did not want to extend the original short AC inlet cable. Even though the code stipulates "no extension cords", it is not law, so it is up to the user to "play safe". The rationale is that using the EVSE in 240V mode with the twist-lock, the EVSE will not fall out of the outlet. Additionally, most twist-lock outlets are built heavy-duty and can tolerate the strain, whereas the standard 5-15R 120V outlets can not, and a common result is the EVSE disconnecting itself.

The inclusion of a short "extension cord" (adapter) for 120V means you can place the heavy EVSE box on the ground, and because most outdoor 120V outlets are GFCI protected already, I do not believe this presents any significant shock risk if used outside in wet conditions. I would not recommend anyone use the upgraded EVSE on 240V where the outlet is outdoors. However, it is perfectly safe to run the "E-hose" and J-1772 handle outside. (The GFCI protection will cover you)

 

[EVDRIVER]

For those curious there is a how to video on the 120/240 conversion here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o30wacwdoc (this is NOT the correct Link)!

This is:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cb2wvqw9JtY

Gary, if you or anyone took any offense to this I want to apologize. The original link was wrong and I have never even seen that first video until now, I'm leaving the link and adding the correct one for full disclosure and that was the link I grabbed when watching the second video :shock: . I think the joke will make more sense now As far as intentionally posting mis-information, I have NEVER done that. I can say all the L1 EVSE info is accurate and quite openly disclosed, no funny business here except when it comes to hot sauce! The goal is to help EV owners as much as possible, I think you and others will find that to be true in the near future.

 

[Ingineer]

did they change the input cable to 4 conductor and wire the existing transformer across a hot leg and neutral?

No.

(Hey, I didn't promise not to take the cables apart) :lol:

Mike wanted a L15-20P as he has a 3-Phase 20A circuit at work for charging. There is no neutral available in this connection, only L1/L2 (X/Y) and ground. L3/Z is unused, and in split-Delta systems can be the "stinger" leg which is well over 120V from ground, so I do not recommend anyone use it. Note that on wye configured systems your upgraded EVSE will only be able to charge at ~2.5kW rather than ~2.9kW. (Though most commercial systems are Delta these days)

 

[GeekEV]

Do we have a verdict on price and availability yet?

 

[Yanquetino]

I would not recommend anyone use the upgraded EVSE on 240V where the outlet is outdoors.

I assume you mean a *non-GFCI* protected 240V outlet outdoors, right? Or is this Telsa owner asking for trouble at an RV Park?

I applaud these efforts. IMHO, this is what Nissan should have done from the getgo. Only makes sense, with 240V outlets at every RV park and marina throughout the country. It would certainly help the earliest of early adopters until the public infrastructure installs sufficient EVSEs to accomodate them.

 

[Ingineer]

A couple of preview pics for you. Notice that the "Ready" LED lamp on mine is now blue rather than the original green - possibly one of the components in mine that gave up during testing and needed to be replaced (remember though that my unit was a testing guinea-pig, and they took it up closer to 300v as a precautionary measure).

That's a personal touch! =) We changed the Ready indicator from Green to Blue, the Charge from Red (made no sense) to Green, and left the Fault Red.

My pigtail is 4' in length, perfect for my needs. I'm not sure about going longer....you'll have to check with the vendor.

We would rather offer an extension for the "E-Hose" than extend the "non protected" side of the EVSE. This is because of safety concerns. It's possible to connectorize the E-hose so that you can have a short version for portability, and then a long extension for the times when this is needed. This would be the safest way to add length.

 

[smkettner]

At least have an optional item available if needed
AV could have done something along this line also

 

[richard]

We would rather offer an extension for the "E-Hose" than extend the "non protected" side of the EVSE. This is because of safety concerns. It's possible to connectorize the E-hose so that you can have a short version for portability, and then a long extension for the times when this is needed. This would be the safest way to add length.

Winding up the original cordset without kinking the cable is a challenge.

Normally, I pay out one end of an extension cord on the ground to spin around freely while I wind up the other end. With this assembly it's like Sophie's Choice (do I want to drag the expensive J1772 plug or the expensive box through the gravel? :shock: )

Trying to do it in the air is like wrestling with an octopus.

If you "connectorize" the e-hose end, it'll have the added benefit of making this assembly much easier to put away neatly.

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

oh around here its required code that all 120 power outlets that can come in contact with water be GCFI protected. that includes all outdoor, garage, kitchen, bath, and utility rooms.

 

[phxsmiley]

This mod should make it usable at RV parks, right? A google search makes it look like there are 30A and 50A connectors, but converters are available for that. Hmm - that opens up a lot of possible charging spots.

Does anyone know how much that costs? I'm not an RV'er... :idea:

 

[smkettner]

Renting an RV spot for a night is $20 to $50+
I doubt they have pricing for transient recharging of an EV so you may well have to pay more than you expect.

Now if you had an RV and brought the EV along with you it sure would make day trips easy.

 

[mwalsh]

Renting an RV spot for a night is $20 to $50+
I doubt they have pricing for transient recharging of an EV so you may well have to pay more than you expect.

Apparently the secret phrase is "dump charge" (the fee they would charge you to dump your waste). Apparently, most RV Parks will be unfamiliar with EVers begging for power, so will be flummoxed as to what to charge you. Suggesting that they charge you their "dump charge" can find approval!

BTW, I just started using my new portable dual 120v/240v EVSE. The car didn't blow up and I didn't die in the process of getting it hooked up and working (despite some pretty dodgy electrical connections to my service panel). Stay tuned for a short video and some rough charging data.

 

[mwalsh]

OK, so here is my video. What you are seeing here is the following...

I've hooked up a temporary 240v 20A connection to my service panel. The other end of which contains a socket to plug the EVSE into. When I plugged the EVSE in, the "ready" light came on (just as you knew it would) and the "charge" light came on briefly when I plugged the J1772 into the car (normal behavior when you have a charge timer set). When I hit the timer override switch in the car, charging began as it should and the "charge" light came back on again, as did the charging indicator lights in the car.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzwgkfj43PE[/youtube]

Now to make the figures I'm getting as close to what's going into the car as possible, I disconnected my solar for the afternoon, and with the exception of about 400w of phantom power in the house when nobody is home, the shot of the meter spinning is pretty much all the car. You can tell from the meter speed that there is a fairly substantial amount of power being drawn. Before charging started it was at just a bit north of 484.5 and now, about 25 minutes in, it's at 486 even. I'll check it after a full hour and let you know what it reads then. Perhaps someone could then discount the phantom power from the total and give us a wall to car figure? I don't know how to work that out.

 

[evnow]

Yes, it can be funny, but could/should be identified with at least a ":lol:" ( :lol: ) to avoid misleading unsuspecting folks and providing "fuel" to those who would quote these posts from "a prominent member of the MyNissanLeaf forum" to discredit us.

Or a disclaimer in the sig "inspite of my best efforts the posts may not be incorrect or funny". :twisted:

 

[JasonT]

I don't know how to work that out.

This is either A)very easy or B)not and I'm wrong YET AGAIN or C)I don't understand the question. Since you're getting a reading after 1 hour, I believe all you have to do is:
Final Reading - 484.5 - .4
and that will give you the kWh sent to the car

Based on your current numbers, I estimate you'll end up with 2.64

 

[KeiJidosha]

This mod should make it usable at RV parks, right? A google search makes it look like there are 30A and 50A connectors, but converters are available for that. Hmm - that opens up a lot of possible charging spots.

Does anyone know how much that costs? I'm not an RV'er... :idea:

In the RV world, 30amp is 120 volt, and 50 amp is 240 volt, so only 50 amp hook-up is faster than L1. As above I have used the "Dump charge" as a starting offer to get a site. A 30amp (6.6kW) charger would make opportunity charging like this more useful.

 

[Ingineer]

OK, so here is my video. What you are seeing here is the following...

Mike, if you could, be sure you note in the comments of your video that the EVSE has been modified for 240V use, otherwise some unsuspecting people might see it and fry their unmodified EVSE's on 240v!

I've hooked up a temporary 240v 20A connection to my service panel. The other end of which contains a socket to plug the EVSE into. When I plugged the EVSE in, the "ready" light came on (just as you knew it would) and the "charge" light came on briefly when I plugged the J1772 into the car (normal behavior when you have a charge timer set). When I hit the timer override switch in the car, charging began as it should and the "charge" light came back on again, as did the charging indicator lights in the car.

Glad to see everything is working as intended.

Now to make the figures I'm getting as close to what's going into the car as possible, I disconnected my solar for the afternoon, and with the exception of about 400w of phantom power in the house when nobody is home, the shot of the meter spinning is pretty much all the car. You can tell from the meter speed that there is a fairly substantial amount of power being drawn. Before charging started it was at just a bit north of 484.5 and now, about 25 minutes in, it's at 486 even. I'll check it after a full hour and let you know what it reads then. Perhaps someone could then discount the phantom power from the total and give us a wall to car figure? I don't know how to work that out.

How do you know you have 400w in the house? If that is true, then that's 400 watts every hour, so .4kWH, or just under a "half click".

Thanks for the video and test, it will be interesting to get a rough idea of the Leafs charging efficiency.

 

[DarkStar]

A local RV park here in Oregon is charging $2/hour to charge up and they do have 240v access:

http://www.afdc.energy.gov/afdc/progs/station_detail.php/OR/ELEC/29377

The few local parks I've contacted have offered to let me charge for free! 240v RV spot if available, or 120v at a shelter otherwise.

 

[mwalsh]

Ooh, good point Ingineer. I shall do that.

BTW, K. Any word on that old iPhone from your son?

Here is my meter after the one hour on the modified L2:

As you can see from the OP screen capture below, the LEAF does indeed believe it is charging on some form of L2, with 8 hours left to charge to full. So I started out with 1 bar/17 miles of range (unfortunately I didn't remember to see what percentage of charge that was), to 3 bars/30 miles of range/25% charged:

BTW, compare that to the OP now that I've got the AV EVSE going, and you can see the time to full charge is substantially less, on account of it delivering more power:

 

[EVDRIVER]

Nice, thanks Mike! To note that your temp cord solution to the panel was done to test your EVSE and is in no way intended to be a permanent solution or intended for normal use.