I only have leafspy lite right now so it doesn’t show the items you mentioned but once I have the car I am going to download the leaf spy pro app. It will only be used to commute to and from work and around where I live . No long distance driving .
New to Electric and looking to buy a Leaf
- Thread starter Dyno1
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The seller said it gets 156kms in range when full charged , but I know that probably doesn’t mean much .
Thank you all for your input . Not knowing alot about Leafs (but learning alot here) , hearing from those who are far more knowledgeable than I that everything should be okay is definitely reassuring to me.
Thank you all for your input . Not knowing alot about Leafs (but learning alot here) , hearing from those who are far more knowledgeable than I that everything should be okay is definitely reassuring to me.
Dyno1 said:
Yes. Charging to 100% if needed is fine, provided you don't leave the battery sitting at 100% for long periods, especially in hot weather. Otherwise, keep it at 60-80% unless you need more range.
knightmb
Well-known member
Dyno1 said:
LeftieBiker had the best answer, I would only add that you can get away 100% charge if you plan to use it right away for a long day of trips for example; you want some extra buffer to AC/Heat to your perfect cabin temperature, aggressive driving (stoplight champion) etc. :lol:
Don't see 100% as a danger zone to be scared of, just don't leave it at 100% and forget about for days. Same thing with keeping the charge below 20%, if you need the range, don't sacrifice comfort in the cabin (shutting off climate control, turning off radio, seat heaters, etc) or worry about arriving home with 16% power instead of 21% power, if you are able to plug in and charge up within a short amount of time. The Gen 1 batteries are most sensitive to heat I believe from what I've read about other experiences here (and my own when I owned a 2013 SV) more than anything. Drive it like a car, treat it like a car, expect it to start and drive off at every press of the start button, but just keep the mental notes in the back of your mind that being nice to the battery will pay off in the long run. You more you drive it, the more you will get comfortable with your "mental" range calculations and the less worry about range anxiety. It's easy coming from an ICE vehicle where it seems you find 4 gas stations on every corner to not worry about the "range" of your ICE vehicle. You'll eventually reach the same comfort level with your Leaf.
goldbrick
Well-known member
Dyno1 said:
That seems about right for a 2017 SV at 83% SOH in good driving conditions. Remember that wet or snowy roads, highway speeds and cold temperatures can all reduce the range.
So I called my local Nissan dealership and they ran the vin to see if the BMS update was done, it was done in 2018 before it was imported. They did tell me that in 2019 it was in a Nissan dealership locally because the battery warning light was on. They performed a voltage loss inspection and replaced the MD12 module B. Since then, it hasn't been back in to Nissan for the same problem. I think maybe that is why the cells are a bit unbalanced.
Spoke to the dealer where the work was done and a battery module was replaced , part $1100, Shows no other work on the vehicle since. I initially called the wrong dealership near where the work was done and he said cell 23 was replaced. Looking at the battery cell graph from leafspy , cells 21-24 are the ones which are high would would make sense now. LeftieBiker you called it, you thought maybe some cells had been replaced 
That's MUCH better than having low cells. The new cells should get balanced with the rest of them, although it may take a few months. Bad cells are fairly common with the 2016 model year; This confirms that there were still packs with bad cells being shipped in 2017.
So I contacted the seller and he said that they parked the car for 4 months during covid and when they re insured it the low voltage warning came on. They thought it was the 12 volt battery so they replaced it ( means it has anew 12 volt battery ) but the warning did not go away. They brought it to the dealership and they replaced the weak cell under warranty. He is going to give me the records of the work done. At least Nissan fixed it under warranty, so if I run into any problems they'll fix it since the car is still under warranty until 2025.
Just curious, are there 4 cells per module?
) but the warning did not go away. They brought it to the dealership and they replaced the weak cell under warranty. He is going to give me the records of the work done. At least Nissan fixed it under warranty, so if I run into any problems they'll fix it since the car is still under warranty until 2025.Just curious, are there 4 cells per module?
I believe that there are in the first generation (before 2018) Leaf. The Gen II has 8 cells per module.
Going to pick they car up today , I’ll keep you all posted . We just had some major rain storms and flooding here so the provincial government has said you can only fuel up 30 litres of gas until December 1st because a few major highways suffered major damage so some fuel supply routes have been cut off and a major pipeline shut down for inspection . Good timing be buying an electric car .
So I picked up the Leaf today and I love it , it’s so much fun to drive ! Slowly figuring out how things work and how regeneration works , it’s very cool to see them battery and travel distance increase when going down hill regenerating. Wish I had bought one sooner. The seller told me his wife said to him should the be selling the car with the current gasoline restrictions in place , he told her to late to go back now. Glad I have him a deposit the other day when I first saw it .
Regeneration is indeed neat, but remember that it's much less effective at extending range than is coasting. Use Regen when you have to slow and/or stop the car, and when just coasting in D or N is possible, that works better. Actually, don't use Neutral now - that's a more advanced technique. IIRC you don't need the car's full range most of the time. B mode works well on drives where you have to slow down and speed up, slow down and speed up a lot.
So drive in D but switch to regenerate when slowing down or stopping , do not leave in b mode all the time ? Also should I leave the car in Eco mode all the time or majority of the time ?
The battery is currently at 66% , probably drive it to work in the morning. Should I charge to 80% or is it ok to charge to 100% so I can figure out range?
The battery is currently at 66% , probably drive it to work in the morning. Should I charge to 80% or is it ok to charge to 100% so I can figure out range?
Use B mode when the driving has lots of Stop & Go or Stop & Slow. Use Eco in Winter because it limits the heater draw. Use D in warm weather because it lets you coast the most, and gives you the most power all the time (if you like that).
You can charge to 100%, especially if you time it so that the car only reaches 100% a little while before leaving for work. Since it's cold, charging to 100% and leaving it overnight will do little harm, but the 'just in time' method of charging is a good habit to get into for warmer weather.
You can charge to 100%, especially if you time it so that the car only reaches 100% a little while before leaving for work. Since it's cold, charging to 100% and leaving it overnight will do little harm, but the 'just in time' method of charging is a good habit to get into for warmer weather.
knightmb
Well-known member
Dyno1 said:
Well, explore how all of the different modes feel first when driving, then apply that to your driving style. So, for example, if you know you are going to be driving through a lot of rush hour traffic where you expect a lot of stop and go, B mode works best for that. It also saves your foot from having to hope back and forth between brake and accelerator as you can almost bring the Leaf to a complete stop that way. If you expect a nice long drive without stoplights, traffic, open road, etc., then D mode works best to minimize Regen so you can coast down hills, etc. D mode and B mode basically affect the regen amounts when you let off of the accelerator. Eco mode affects when you use the accelerator by making a more gentle start and increases the regen a bit. So it's possible to further tweak your style by using Eco + D or Eco + B for example. One example of the combinations might be Eco + B where you are in some really bad bumper to bumper traffic that is both slow to start and never goes far before stopping again, this can maximize range by not taking off like a sports car and also using full regen to re-capture the lost energy from the short stops and starts.
There is no right or wrong way to mix it, do the style you like the most. Some are better than others are maximizing range, some are better at maximizing drive comfort.
LeftieBiker already beat me to it on the 100% SOC question.
goldbrick
Well-known member
I've left my car in ECO mode for several years now. For the accelerator, all it does is change the mapping of the pedal and I prefer the 'feel' of ECO since I like to limit acceleration after a stop to 4-5 bars. And as Leftie says, it also has the nice effect of reducing the power draw from the HVAC system, although that probably reduces its output a bit too.
Do use the seat heaters since that will save a lot of power vs the cabin heater and enjoy the ride!
Do use the seat heaters since that will save a lot of power vs the cabin heater and enjoy the ride!
alozzy
Well-known member
I think you're overthinking this...Dyno1 said:
Just enjoy the car and use D (drive) mode most of the time, while using B (brake) mode when approaching red lights.
Use ECO and look for opportunities to slip the car into neutral when you really need to extend the range.
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