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flipnotize21 said:
Gerry thanks for that info, i can ask if the software was updated in my nissan appointment this next week, how did u like the replacement battery and did it also came with a warranty? I know you lost the car from an accident was the new battery a lizard version or it was a regular 11-12 battery? Thanks again

I was told that the replacement battery came from Japan and was the same as the original. I don't think the replacement was quite as much capacity as the original was when new, but almost. The replacement battery was covered by the remainder of the 8-year, 100,000-mile defect warranty and 5-year, 60,000-mile capacity warranty (depending upon interpretation of the class action lawsuit since I received the warranty paperwork from Nissan long before receiving anything from the lawyers about the class action). I opted out of the class action after receiving the new battery so I really don't know what would have happened if the car had not been destroyed and I lost enough capacity to qualify for a second replacement.

I see no reason to avoid the P3227 software update. The actual battery capacity (energy from wall to charge from dead to full) did not change, the regeneration allowed was actually higher the first winter with the new battery than when the car was new, and the accuracy of the instrumentation (state of charge bar graph display and distance to empty or GOM) improved significantly.

I don't have enough data, but preliminary indications are that the 2015 battery is holding its initial capacity better than the original and replacement batteries in the 2011. I hope nothing happens to the 2015 so I will have more data next year.

Gerry
 
Garry thanks for that info and experience it is really useful, i hope my obd2 will come in this week and will be doing a weeks test on the car before i turn it to nissan for a diagnostic test. Share more of your findings on the 2015 and hope they perfected the lizard version.
 
:evil: ahhh this sux, paird obd2 rader now it says (bts) failed, socket may be closed.... man... anyone can help here?
 
flipnotize21 said:
:evil: ahhh this sux, paird obd2 rader now it says (bts) failed, socket may be closed.... man... anyone can help here?

Are you trying to pair the OBD with your phone that is already paired to the NAV system?
If so, that usually does not work well. There is a setting in Leaf Spy Pro (not sure about Lite) that lets you select an alternate BT channel. I have a separate tablet that I use for connecting to the OBD.
 
flipnotize21 said:
Tim leee what are my benefits on upgrading the software? And is this an option or when i take my car in they will automatically do it? Can i opt not to get ot installed if the negative outcome weights more than the posetive?
Nissan bundled a couple things in P3227.
Primary intent was for battery capacity measurement to be more accurate, an improvement they implemented on 2013 forward LEAFs.
But they also corrected an error in the J1772 charging protocol. Or it may have been a difference of interpretation of the standard.
But some GE and possibly some other brand EVSEs could result in failure of the 2011 and 2012 LEAF on board charger, and these failures may have mostly been after a power failure when the LEAF was charging, and the EVSE put power back to the LEAF when power was restored, and with Nissan programming of J1772 the on board charger was not ready and the on board charger fried when power was restored.
P3227 software change fixes that.

Typically the dealer would automatically do P3227.
But I asked my Nissan service dealer if it was mandatory.
Was advised it was up to the customer and I requested that it not be done.

Main risk without it would be use of an L2 EVSE that fries the on board charger.
But if you lose four capacity bars, Nissan will do P3227 before they will do capacity warranty battery replacement.
After P3227 it will take at least a month or two before you get an accurate capacity indication.
Some briefly got a bar back.
So if you are close on time or miles probably need P3227 done at least two or three months before capacity warranty runs out.
 
TimLee said:
flipnotize21 said:
Tim leee what are my benefits on upgrading the software? And is this an option or when i take my car in they will automatically do it? Can i opt not to get ot installed if the negative outcome weights more than the posetive?
Nissan bundled a couple things in P3227.
Primary intent was for battery capacity measurement to be more accurate, an improvement they implemented on 2013 forward LEAFs.
But they also corrected an error in the J1772 charging protocol. Or it may have been a difference of interpretation of the standard.
But some GE and possibly some other brand EVSEs could result in failure of the 2011 and 2012 LEAF on board charger, and these failures may have mostly been after a power failure when the LEAF was charging, and the EVSE put power back to the LEAF when power was restored, and with Nissan programming of J1772 the on board charger was not ready and the on board charger fried when power was restored.
P3227 software change fixes that.

Typically the dealer would automatically do P3227.
But I asked my Nissan service dealer if it was mandatory.
Was advised it was up to the customer and I requested that it not be done.

Main risk without it would be use of an L2 EVSE that fries the on board charger.
But if you lose four capacity bars, Nissan will do P3227 before they will do capacity warranty battery replacement.
After P3227 it will take at least a month or two before you get an accurate capacity indication.
Some briefly got a bar back.
So if you are close on time or miles probably need P3227 done at least two or three months before capacity warranty runs out.

thanks for the info, will do take it to the dealer soon, I am having problems with Vgate OBD2 I guess its not compatible with Galaxy s3... i hope my battery will do good this coming summer, i live in the san Fernando valley and it can be well above 90* to 100*F here, already we are in the 80* to 90*F.
 
Thing that i noticed today about the GOM, when i trickle charge i get a range 70-75, sometimes on LVL 2 i get 70-78, on chademo 79-85, in one ocation i got 90mi on a chademo only once. ?? :roll: ? I can never get LVL 1 to be 80-85mi
 
flipnotize21 said:
Thing that i noticed today about the GOM, when i trickle charge i get a range 70-75, sometimes on LVL 2 i get 70-78, on chademo 79-85, in one ocation i got 90mi on a chademo only once. ?? :roll: ? I can never get LVL 1 to be 80-85mi
Were the L1 and L2 done at the same location? If not, I'd suspect the difference is how and where you were driving shortly before you charged and not the manner of charging. That may be the reason for the different GOM for the CHAdeMO as well.
 
davewill said:
flipnotize21 said:
Thing that i noticed today about the GOM, when i trickle charge i get a range 70-75, sometimes on LVL 2 i get 70-78, on chademo 79-85, in one ocation i got 90mi on a chademo only once. ?? :roll: ? I can never get LVL 1 to be 80-85mi
Were the L1 and L2 done at the same location? If not, I'd suspect the difference is how and where you were driving shortly before you charged and not the manner of charging. That may be the reason for the different GOM for the CHAdeMO as well.

LVL1 charger I when 100% charged I would leave it 3hrs before I drive off same plug same time, LVL2 I let it sit 30mins 100% before I drive off same station every time, Chademo I use to 97-98% I also let it sit 15-20mins before I drive off, the same stations are always used for comparison.
 
flipnotize21 said:
davewill said:
flipnotize21 said:
Thing that i noticed today about the GOM, when i trickle charge i get a range 70-75, sometimes on LVL 2 i get 70-78, on chademo 79-85, in one ocation i got 90mi on a chademo only once. ?? :roll: ? I can never get LVL 1 to be 80-85mi
Were the L1 and L2 done at the same location? If not, I'd suspect the difference is how and where you were driving shortly before you charged and not the manner of charging. That may be the reason for the different GOM for the CHAdeMO as well.

LVL1 charger I when 100% charged I would leave it 3hrs before I drive off same plug same time, LVL2 I let it sit 30mins 100% before I drive off same station every time, Chademo I use to 97-98% I also let it sit 15-20mins before I drive off, the same stations are always used for comparison.

GOM uses recent driving as part of the algorithm so if one charging point happens to be uphill or off a highway, the GOM value leaving will be lower.

Get leafspy (or other tool) to actually tell you how much energy you have stored and compare that. I'll hazard to guess that you will find there is no material difference between the different charge methods assuming all report 100% charged.

I get 22kWh/284Gids reported by leafspy whether I do my home L2 (evse upgrade to 4.8kW) or work L2 (full 6kW). When I have used the DCQC I never get to 100% so no data there.
 
Slow1

any tips on what to do about my galaxy s3 leafspy and ELM327 says "(BTS) Read Fail, Socket Might Be Closed Or Timed Out, Read Ret:-1."
 
Is it paired?
If so, most common effective fix is to unplug it and plug it back in.
Either shortly before or after you have started LEAF Spy Pro.
It will flash request if you want to pair.
 
TimLee said:
Is it paired?
If so, most common effective fix is to unplug it and plug it back in.
Either shortly before or after you have started LEAF Spy Pro.
It will flash request if you want to pair.

yes its paired, so I tried what you suggested and it would say "(ANS) System reset by peer"
 
:cry: sad thing my car got hit on the right front & fender have some scuffs on the rims car drives, noticed the car is not aligned right, would I be worried if the hit may have damaged the electric motor or this is fixable via alignment?
 
Motor should be OK. Without seeing pictures, it is hard to say how bad damage is. Suspension damage, wheel damage, etc. will cause car to not track straight. Repair expense depends upon what is damaged and how bad.

Gerry
 
Thanks guys, so I got the car in progressive center and they will take care of everything estimated damage $2,000, they said they will replace with OEM or equivalent parts, if anything goes wrong with the car I can take it back. ill be getting the car back on Saturday MAY 2, 2015 and lets see how the car does.
 
:p got the car back early, looks like a showroom car again WEEEEEEE! everything runs great, still cant make my leafspy work but I think im gonna be passed that now im looking for lowering springs... not coilovers I see there is H tein but any other alternatives and links where I can buy some, or maybe which springs are compatible??
 
Bump- this forum rocks, i dont have range anxiety anymore and my driving habits have changed. I now get a useful 50-60+ miles on a single charge till vlbw so now i know how much i can use, tho never got into turtle mode but im ok with 50miles a day, got my car some h.tech teins and loving the car.
 
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