derkraut
Well-known member
Thank you Mr. Walsh.
What is your location and how many miles do you have on the 2nd battery?mark133 said:I just got my first bar loss on my 2nd battery
And was your replacement battery an original battery or a lizard battery? (Am thinking it must be an original battery)KJD said:What is your location and how many miles do you have on the 2nd battery?mark133 said:I just got my first bar loss on my 2nd battery
I was wondering when this was going to happen. I think you were the first person to get a replacement battery... Sorry for your loss! I wonder if you will make through next summer without losing #2 and #3?mark133 said:I just got my first bar loss on my 2nd battery
mark133: Can you update your location info via User Control Panel (near top) > Profile (left side)? That way, we don't need to ask in future posts/threads or do sleuthing to deduce it.drees said:And was your replacement battery an original battery or a lizard battery? (Am thinking it must be an original battery)KJD said:What is your location and how many miles do you have on the 2nd battery?mark133 said:I just got my first bar loss on my 2nd battery
The first part makes perfect sense. Not sure why Nissan should "fix" it. In my book, the clock should tick for this the entire time and only when the car is in READY mode (green car w/arrows), not in non-drivable modes (e.g. ON and ACC).electricfuture said:Also your "average speed" data is based on when the car is turned on - even when you are not moving. That is why is is so low compared to your actual driving speeds. Nissan is working on fixing this.
My bike cyclometer gives you the option, i.e. calculating based on riding time only or total time, so there's no reason this couldn't be implemented for cars.cwerdna said:The first part makes perfect sense. Not sure why Nissan should "fix" it. In my book, the clock should tick for this the entire time and only when the car is in READY mode (green car w/arrows), not in non-drivable modes (e.g. ON and ACC).electricfuture said:Also your "average speed" data is based on when the car is turned on - even when you are not moving. That is why is is so low compared to your actual driving speeds. Nissan is working on fixing this.
If it took you 60 minutes (60 minutes in READY mode) to go 15 miles because of low speeds, stop and go and lots of "idling"... err stopped, your average speed was 15 mph. It shouldn't be artificially inflated w/time stopped not counting towards that average.
If they want to keep a separate inflated "average speed" for when your speed is above 0 mph, that might be interesting...
omkar said:I had a SoCal 3 bar loser:
Car 222 omkar Irvine, CA
3 bars lost at 35 months (11/19/2013) / 33,700 miles
2 bars lost at 29 months (5/25/2013) / 29,500 miles
1 bar lost at 20 months (9/5/2012) / 19,000 miles
LI-ION BATTERY GRADUAL CAPACITY LOSS DATA CLEAR
Perform Li-ion Battery Gradual Capacity Loss Data Clear when the Li-ion battery or Li-ion battery controller is
replaced with a new one. VCM saves the Li-ion battery deterioration information sent from the Li-ion battery
controller and manages the Li-ion battery replacement timing. When the Li-ion battery or Li-ion battery controller
is replaced with a new one, there is a difference between the Li-ion battery deterioration data stored in
VCM and the actual Li-ion battery deterioration level. In this case, VCM will incorrectly manage the Li-ion battery
replacement timing. So perform Li-ion Battery Deterioration Data Clear to clear the Li-ion battery deterioration
data stored in VCM.
CAUTION:
Never perform Li-ion Battery Deterioration Data Clear when the Li-ion battery or Li-ion battery controller
is not replaced as new one.
Welcome, Jenn! Thanks for coming hear to share your story with us!rainydayzjmb said:I just had to pop in and say Hi , I purchased car 222 in WA state! , the interesting thing was I bought it with 12 bars in July 2014 and it rapidly lost 3 bars in 3 months... after discovering this site and this post I discovered it had "previously" lost those 3 bars and somehow it was "reset" and just re-learning its true capacity in these 1st few months after I bought it. ... I had a great tech do a stress test and it quickly lost its 4th bar... I just got 222 back from Nissan of the Eastside in Bellevue with a brand new 2015 battery under warranty!omkar said:I had a SoCal 3 bar loser:
Car 222 omkar Irvine, CA
3 bars lost at 35 months (11/19/2013) / 33,700 miles
2 bars lost at 29 months (5/25/2013) / 29,500 miles
1 bar lost at 20 months (9/5/2012) / 19,000 miles
- Jenn
But I guess I hadn't imagined Nissan would be the purveyors of this scam. What's disturbing about your story is that it appears they may have sent it to a cool climate in hopes that the degradation would slow enough to avoid a warranty claim.RegGuheert said:One more thought on this: I'm wondering if the LI-ION GRADUAL CAPACITY LOSS DATA CLEAR command discussed on page EVC-107 of the Nissan LEAF service manual resets lost capacity bars if it is executed on a car with an older battery.Herm said:It would be interesting to see if the lost bar affects the trade-in value.
If so, then I suspect some unscrupulous sellers will reset that just as some do with odometers today. The manual says it is only to be executed in the case of the installation of a new battery or a new battery controller, but that won't stop some people.
It only has 15000 miles on it. Might be OK.Valdemar said:2011 Leaf #940, apparent original CA registration. 12 capacity bars. Really?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/301474452934" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
KJD said:It only has 15000 miles on it. Might be OK.Valdemar said:2011 Leaf #940, apparent original CA registration. 12 capacity bars. Really?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/301474452934" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You want me to stop by and plug the GID meter into it?
Valdemar said:...
Isn't the GID reading affected by BMS reset? Or is it AHr/SOH/Hx only?
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