Can I own a Leaf without a garage?

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Nubo said:
blinder said:
My car port is right next to my bedroom, and lets assume theft is not a concern. And I am smart enough to know not to run AC and charging at the same time. I also will charge a night when I have very little appliances running. Also assume the landlord is Ok with me running an extension cord from my AC socket to my car port. Can you give me a simple answer whether this set up will work? and it will charge faster than L1? And how long would it take to fully charge?

The electrical code doesn't care if you're smart enough. It requires that a 240V circuit have only ONE load attached. So you need to set this up so that you cannot possibly run both at the same time. Without investing in elaborate switching equipment, that means plugging and unplugging the EVSE and AC. It's important to note that the 240V outlet is not designed for a huge number of plug/unplug cycles. So if you intend to be switching devices daily, this is probably not a good way to go.

I think you also said the 240V circuit goes to a 15A breaker? That seems unusual* but if it's true then very few Level2 EVSE's can be used on it. Most draw 16 amps or more and you're only allowed to draw a max of 12A continuous from a 15A circuit. You'd need an EVSE that can be "dialed down" to 12 or fewer amps.

Running an extension cord across a public area presents a danger to others, regardless of the landlord's opinion, unless you can be sure that there will be no foot traffic/mowing/gardening/etc... And your plan should not depend on getting up early enough to move the cord.

Based on the questions and proposals you've presented I'd strongly suggest you pay for a bit of an electrician's time to talk this over. There are important reasons for a lot of the electrical rules that may seem like unreasonable impediments to you at the moment. Whether or not something will work is not the same as whether or not you should do it. People have successfully ridden over Niagara falls in barrels... It works. ;)

*are you sure the AC is on 240V? There are window units that run 120V. I've not seen a 15A 240V circuit. FYI, 240V circuits go to 2 breakers, or a double-breaker.
Thank to your concern and valuable suggestion.
I am not an electrician but I am pretty handy with carpentry and use extension cord often. I intend to use a heavy gauge quality extension cord, and place it in safe high place thats away from foot traffic and other interference. My apartment is similar to a two unit duplex, unlike the motel style structure, and the car port is very private, I will not use a splitter, so there will be zero chance of charging and running AC the same time. As for constantly plugging and unplugging, I run my AC only few days a years, so that the charging cord will be permanently stayed on the socket.

So safety in term of elements should be be a concern. I just want to be sure that I know AC draws much energy/juicy, and if the outlet is strong enough for AC, it should be strong enough for L2 charging?....
 
blinder said:
I think I finally find a solution.
There is a device call Quick 220 system. http://www.quick220.com/
Simply plug to two 110 v sockets, provided the two outlets are not sync, and the device output 220V. All I need then is EVSE upgrade or TurboCord. Goodbye to L1 charging. I like to hear your opinion on this.

The remaining question is should I get a 15 Amp device or 20 Amp device?
BTW, I live in Southern CA, so cold weather is not a concern.
Sounds like the A/C circuit would be a much better approach for you. I have and occasionally use a quick220-like device, and while it works for the occasional charge when out and about it's not the sort of thing you want to use on a daily basis. Picture extension cords strewn about all over the place as you try to find those two out-of-phase outlets (which is NOT that easy, and they must not be GFI protected.) Besides, if you're going to invest a couple hundred bucks in one of those you're probably most of the way toward getting a new circuit installed. Go and get that quote - it might not be as bad as you think.

If you're set on getting a quick220, I'd get the 20 amp version, but still derate your charging to 12 amps (preferably less.) If either of the 120V circuits is a 15 amp circuit (much more common than 20 amp), then 12 amps is the most you can do, and you must make sure not to operate anything else on the circuits while you charge. By the way, the Turbocord charges at 16 amps only, so I wouldn't recommend it.
 
blinder said:
One poster suggested getting a PHEV instead. I am now driving a toyota corolla and it get me 30 mpg. So a PHEV would not be a big saving over my corolla.

If you're concerned about savings just drive the Corolla.
 
fooljoe said:
blinder said:
I think I finally find a solution.
There is a device call Quick 220 system. http://www.quick220.com/
Simply plug to two 110 v sockets, provided the two outlets are not sync, and the device output 220V. All I need then is EVSE upgrade or TurboCord. Goodbye to L1 charging. I like to hear your opinion on this.

The remaining question is should I get a 15 Amp device or 20 Amp device?
BTW, I live in Southern CA, so cold weather is not a concern.
Sounds like the A/C circuit would be a much better approach for you. I have and occasionally use a quick220-like device, and while it works for the occasional charge when out and about it's not the sort of thing you want to use on a daily basis. Picture extension cords strewn about all over the place as you try to find those two out-of-phase outlets (which is NOT that easy, and they must not be GFI protected.) Besides, if you're going to invest a couple hundred bucks in one of those you're probably most of the way toward getting a new circuit installed. Go and get that quote - it might not be as bad as you think.

If you're set on getting a quick220, I'd get the 20 amp version, but still derate your charging to 12 amps (preferably less.) If either of the 120V circuits is a 15 amp circuit (much more common than 20 amp), then 12 amps is the most you can do, and you must make sure not to operate anything else on the circuits while you charge. By the way, the Turbocord charges at 16 amps only, so I wouldn't recommend it.

I like how you think and you sounds very knowledgeable. And I value that you have experience with Quick 220 similar type device.
If I go with the AC route, would TurboCord be OK to use?
 
Valdemar said:
blinder said:
One poster suggested getting a PHEV instead. I am now driving a toyota corolla and it get me 30 mpg. So a PHEV would not be a big saving over my corolla.

If you're concerned about savings just drive the Corolla.

Saving is only one of many reasons. I like being green and can drive on HOV.
 
If you can run an extension cord up high, is there any reason you couldn't run conduit, instead? If so, it sounds like you could consider running a new circuit to your breaker box. Then you could have an electrician put in a 20a or 40a 240v line and you could plug in a normal EVSE. If the distance is as short as you suggest, then it shouldn't cost all that much, maybe just a couple hundred bucks.

Anyway, the 15a 240v line should get you comfortably charging overnight. Worst case should be 10 hours, more likely you'll be done in well under 8 hours most nights. Just don't cheap out on the extension cord or other parts.
 
blinder said:
I am not an electrician but I am pretty handy with carpentry and use extension cord often. I intend to use a heavy gauge quality extension cord, and place it in safe high place thats away from foot traffic and other interference. My apartment is similar to a two unit duplex, unlike the motel style structure, and the car port is very private, I will not use a splitter, so there will be zero chance of charging and running AC the same time. As for constantly plugging and unplugging, I run my AC only few days a years, so that the charging cord will be permanently stayed on the socket.

So safety in term of elements should be be a concern. I just want to be sure that I know AC draws much energy/juicy, and if the outlet is strong enough for AC, it should be strong enough for L2 charging?....

It's not proof. AC often cycles on and off, so it isn't necessarily an equivalent load to an EVSE that will draw a constant current for hours on end. Also it depends on how many Amps your AC is actually consuming vs. the EVSE.

Again, if it's really a 15A circuit, most EVSE's will not be useable, as they are often set for 30A or 40A circuits or above. Mine is 16A but that still requires a 20A circuit. You will need something like EVSE Upgrade that lets you select lower values. The way it works is, the EVSE and car "compare notes" and the car will charge at its maximum rate, or the rate specified by the EVSE, whichever is lower. If the car an charge at 30A and you plug a 30A EVSE into a 15A circuit, and then into the car, the car will choose to charge at the 30A that the EVSE says is available. Putting a 30 Amp load on a 15A circuit will pop the circuit breaker, or worse. Now, the wall plug will be incompatible so you really wouldn't be able to plug it in, but I want to make sure you don't think it's ok to replace the outlet with one that matches the EVSE.
 
Nubo said:
blinder said:
I am not an electrician but I am pretty handy with carpentry and use extension cord often. I intend to use a heavy gauge quality extension cord, and place it in safe high place thats away from foot traffic and other interference. My apartment is similar to a two unit duplex, unlike the motel style structure, and the car port is very private, I will not use a splitter, so there will be zero chance of charging and running AC the same time. As for constantly plugging and unplugging, I run my AC only few days a years, so that the charging cord will be permanently stayed on the socket.

So safety in term of elements should be be a concern. I just want to be sure that I know AC draws much energy/juicy, and if the outlet is strong enough for AC, it should be strong enough for L2 charging?....

It's not proof. AC often cycles on and off, so it isn't necessarily an equivalent load to an EVSE that will draw a constant current for hours on end. Also it depends on how many Amps your AC is actually consuming vs. the EVSE.

Again, if it's really a 15A circuit, most EVSE's will not be useable, as they are often set for 30A or 40A circuits or above. Mine is 16A but that still requires a 20A circuit. You will need something like EVSE Upgrade that lets you select lower values. The way it works is, the EVSE and car "compare notes" and the car will charge at its maximum rate, or the rate specified by the EVSE, whichever is lower. If the car an charge at 30A and you plug a 30A EVSE into a 15A circuit, and then into the car, the car will choose to charge at the 30A that the EVSE says is available. Putting a 30 Amp load on a 15A circuit will pop the circuit breaker, or worse. Now, the wall plug will be incompatible so you really wouldn't be able to plug it in, but I want to make sure you don't think it's ok to replace the outlet with one that matches the EVSE.

Let me dismiss the electrician idea once and for all. Its not that I want to save the service charge, its my apartment does not allow any changes electrical wise in the car port. I can plug in and use the outlet, but cannot change anything.

And yes, I would definitely consider getting an EVSE upgrade and similar charger like TurboCord.
 
People are lazy when they say that 240V is faster than 120V. Really, higher power is faster, no matter the voltage, since the car converts any input to exactly the voltage it needs. In general, 120V outlets supply far less power than a 220V, and there's no way to change that apart from running new line and breakers. You can bump the voltage, but the amps will go down in kind to keep I = V/R.
 
blinder said:
Let me dismiss the electrician idea once and for all. Its not that I want to save the service charge, its my apartment does not allow any changes electrical wise in the car port. I can plug in and use the outlet, but cannot change anything.

I understand, but I recommended a consultation so you could get advice regarding your various plans, from someone qualified. A consult.
 
blinder said:
And yes, I would definitely consider getting an EVSE upgrade and similar charger like TurboCord.
TurboCord won't do the job because you can't set the output to 12a. Your choices to the best of my knowledge are:

EVSE Upgrade
ClipperCreek LCS-15
OpenEVSE

The Clipper Creek only seems to come in a hard-wired version, so you'd have to add a cord and plug to it. I personally don't see that as a problem, but some people around here take a dim view of putting a plug on a hard-wired unit. Do you know what kind of plug your AC is plugged into?

You could also use the Jesla with the 5-15 adapter and a home-made 6-15 adapter (or whatever your AC is using), but I don't recommend it...too expensive.
 
davewill said:
blinder said:
And yes, I would definitely consider getting an EVSE upgrade and similar charger like TurboCord.
TurboCord won't do the job because you can't set the output to 12a. Your choices to the best of my knowledge are:

EVSE Upgrade
ClipperCreek LCS-15
OpenEVSE

The Clipper Creek only seems to come in a hard-wired version, so you'd have to add a cord and plug to it. I personally don't see that as a problem, but some people around here take a dim view of putting a plug on a hard-wired unit. Do you know what kind of plug your AC is plugged into?

You could also use the Jesla with the 5-15 adapter and a home-made 6-15 adapter (or whatever your AC is using), but I don't recommend it...too expensive.

Thank you. Best post so far.
 
"Let me dismiss the electrician idea once and for all. Its not that I want to save the service charge, its my apartment does not allow any changes electrical wise in the car port. I can plug in and use the outlet, but cannot change anything. "


This may or may not be helpful. The state of California has a "Right to charge law"

See below and the the other links on that website.

http://www.driveclean.ca.gov/pev/Charging/Home_Charging/Multi-unit_Dwellings.php
 
Foschas said:
"Let me dismiss the electrician idea once and for all. Its not that I want to save the service charge, its my apartment does not allow any changes electrical wise in the car port. I can plug in and use the outlet, but cannot change anything. "


This may or may not be helpful. The state of California has a "Right to charge law"

See below and the the other links on that website.

http://www.driveclean.ca.gov/pev/Charging/Home_Charging/Multi-unit_Dwellings.php

You just dropped a bombshell.
Without reading the fine print, looks like I can install a wall charging unit/station and the landlord can not say no!

If that is true, all my run around are not necessary.

Anyone here live in an apartment and installed a L2 charging unit/station?
Better yet, does the law mandate the landlord share the installation charge?
 
blinder said:
Valdemar said:
blinder said:
One poster suggested getting a PHEV instead. I am now driving a toyota corolla and it get me 30 mpg. So a PHEV would not be a big saving over my corolla.

If you're concerned about savings just drive the Corolla.

Saving is only one of many reasons. I like being green and can drive on HOV.

You can still be green by driving a used PHEV like a Volt, and get the green HOV stickers (make sure you buy one that already has them on, as the allotment for them is nearly depleted).

I have to agree with the others, a BEV is not for you.
 
RonDawg said:
I have to agree with the others, a BEV is not for you.

Thats the reason I want a Leaf. Green sticker is getting max out the quota. But Leaf can have a white sticker which is unlimited.
 
Nice! Looks like you can just hire an electrician, get it done, and no one can stop you!

Of course, who knows what that will cost. And they can just evict you the next month and keep all the capital you just invested in their property...
 
pkulak said:
Nice! Looks like you can just hire an electrician, get it done, and no one can stop you!

Of course, who knows what that will cost. And they can just evict you the next month and keep all the capital you just invested in their property...


I haven't read the text of the law either, but if I were renting in an uncertain situation I'd put a plug on the LCS-15 (they may come with plastic covering on the armored cable now, like my HCS-25) and plug into the A/C outlet, after verifying that the wiring is sound and doesn't have multiple outlets. If reach is a problem, we come back to the RV extension cable, with adapters...


A used Prius PHEV (if available, and with an HOV sticker) would fully charge in 3 hours on 120 volts, and get 70+MPG when charged. If charging wasn't available, it would get 60MPG without charging, double that of the Corolla.
 
blinder said:
RonDawg said:
I have to agree with the others, a BEV is not for you.

Thats the reason I want a Leaf. Green sticker is getting max out the quota. But Leaf can have a white sticker which is unlimited.
BEV = battery electric vehicle = LEAF
White stickers are unlimited in number but all stickers expire 1/1/2019, green and white.
Many used cars are for sale with low miles and already have stickers. Minus three long road trips, my PHEV was 95% electric with a commute like yours.
 
Foschas said:
This may or may not be helpful. The state of California has a "Right to charge law"

See below and the the other links on that website.

http://www.driveclean.ca.gov/pev/Charging/Home_Charging/Multi-unit_Dwellings.php

SB880 is a law to make void and unenforceable any homeowners association rule prohibiting an owner from putting in their own equipment in their own carport. It is good that you brought it up, but not applicable to the OP's situation.
 
Back
Top