240V EV-ChargeAmerica EVSE - (likely scam buyer beware)

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Looks like someone got to the blogger.
You’ve ordered your electric car and like many, you’ve been put off by the seemingly extortionate quote given to install a level 2 electric charging station at your home.
As we’ve discussed before, sourcing your own Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) can save you hundreds of dollars on the cost of preparing your home for your electric car, but an increasingly large number of budget-priced, so-called EVSE charge stations which are not what they appear to be.
As regular visitors to the MyNissanLeaf discussion forum may have noticed, some owners have purchased equipment priced well below the competition.
EDITOR'S NOTE: We have updated this post to remove a reference to a thread on the MyNissanLeaf forum in which a user discussed his claimed experience with a charging station. It was not High Gear Media's intention to assert that the user's claims were true, nor to convey the impression that we endorse his statements. Accordingly, we have removed the reference.
Don’t be confused: an EVSE is not just a cable inside a fancy box.
2011 Chevrolet Volt 240V charging stationEnlarge Photo
All EVSE charging stations on the market today should comply to the outlined in the J1772 (2010) specification devised by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). As part of this standard, a two-way signalling process is used by the charge station and car to ensure that various safety requirements are met before the 230V supply is switched on to the car’s charger.
Without the correct data interchange between the vehicle and EVSE, charging is not allowed. This prevents charging from taking place when there is a fault with either vehicle or supply and prevents electrocution.
However, you may have seen examples of J1772 conversion boxes. These are designed to allow owners of older electric vehicles to make use of the more modern J1772 charging stations. These work by electrically mimicking a connected car at the end of the J1772 charging cable, convincing the EVSE to commence power delivery to the charger.
This ‘hack’ is achieved by using a few resistors of the correct value across the two wires used to communicate between EVSE and car. But to hack the EVSE side of the charging process, much more complex circuitry is required.
So is it safe to buy your own EVSE from a third-party supplier?
Yes, provided you follow a few simple steps:
Firstly, make sure you check to see if the equipment is certified by the Underwriters Laboratories (UL). UL certified EVSE is safe to buy and install, as it complies with all the current safety laws.
What’s more, you may find that neither the automaker or your insurance company will honor a claim if you have charged your car with non UL-certified equipment.
Secondly, check the company out. Your automaker should know of them and they should be listed on reputable owners’ forums.
Olivier Chalouhi, the first customer in the U.S. to take delivery of the 2011 Nissan LEAF back in December, knows only too well that it is possible to save money on the installation of his home EVSE.
2011 Nissan Leaf, Nashville, October 2010Enlarge Photo
Instead of paying for an official nissan-sanctioned installation of his level 2 domestic EVSE, Chalouhi purchased the unit at trade price from Nissan-recommended EVSE supplier Areovironment and found a local electrician to install it for him. He saved a massive $900 in the process.
If you want to follow in his footsteps, make sure you don’t buy from un-known EVSE suppliers and always check for UL certification.
If in doubt, buy with a credit card. That way if you have any disputes your card issuer should offer some form of dispute resolution for goods which do not perform as described.
 
DarkStar said:
Either way, if the Nissan Level 1 EVSE is designed the way a few of us are thinking, it won't matter anymore anyhow! :D

So I'm thinking that you guys think it's internally more or less the same as the Euro unit?

After a month of living with L2, and knowing that there is a Nissan dealer with L2 just a couple of blocks from work, I'm || this close to deciding that I could probably take mine apart to show you how it ticks.
 
MW,
If you plan on opening it, I am willing to join you, if you would like.

Or, bring it (opened) to one of our next two SoCal Gatherings (Feb 12th at Cerritos Nissan, and the 19th at HTB in Santa Ana).
 
garygid said:
MW,
If you plan on opening it, I am willing to join you, if you would like.

Or, bring it (opened) to one of our next two SoCal Gatherings (Feb 12th at Cerritos Nissan, and the 19th at HTB in Santa Ana).


Bring your volt meter:)
 
Keep a few things in mind. The wiring for 240 is two hot leads of 120V not a hot and neutral so the wiring will need to be inspected and changed. In addition, in low units, manufactures will build one unit for both applications even if it means a bit more in cost. In high volume it sometimes makes sense to make two units since the cost on part changes can at times be significant. All the parts need to be checked carefully. In addition, the 120v evse sends a different pilot signal to the charger even if it is the same current, the charger may not care if is sent a 120 signal and gets 240 but those details are yet to be determined.


AS I mentioned earlier, anyone wishing to have their EVSE evaluated by a professional EV equipment engineer with a no-damage guarantee please contact me via PM.
 
DarkStar said:
EVDRIVER said:
In addition, the 120v evse sends a different pilot signal to the charger even if it is the same current, the charger may not care if is sent a 120 signal and gets 240 but those details are yet to be determined.
This is not correct, the J1772-2010 specification states that only the maximum amperage is sent over the control pilot pin. No voltage information is passed at all and the on-board charger is required to be auto-ranging because of this.


Yes but I recall in the charger spec the signal is detected for the EVSE set voltage, this may be to shut off if the supply is over voltage. I believe I saw this in the charger service manual, I'm not saying it is a given but I recall two signals in the manual based on voltage.
 
DarkStar said:
Good news! Airton on the GM-Volt forums received his replacement unit and reports that it is fully functional!
So with this latest update I'm wondering which would be worse at this point: 1)Giving these guys $650 in hopes that it will work out, or 2)Giving AV another $700 to get their unit. #1 doesn't thrill me due to what I've seen in this thread so far. #2 doesn't thrill me because the whole AV experience has annoyed me so much and I really don't want to give them any more money. I still have... probably a month to make the decision, but the clock is quickly running out. (Using just L1 while other options become available isn't really an option for me)
 
JasonT said:
DarkStar said:
Good news! Airton on the GM-Volt forums received his replacement unit and reports that it is fully functional!
So with this latest update I'm wondering which would be worse at this point: 1)Giving these guys $650 in hopes that it will work out, or 2)Giving AV another $700 to get their unit. #1 doesn't thrill me due to what I've seen in this thread so far. #2 doesn't thrill me because the whole AV experience has annoyed me so much and I really don't want to give them any more money. I still have... probably a month to make the decision, but the clock is quickly running out. (Using just L1 while other options become available isn't really an option for me)


What do you mean by another $700? As much as I think AV is a joke I would buy that if you must rush and run from the first rather than buy that home made EVSE. I would wait as long as you can before buying as well.
 
I doubt this is public but the Schnieder L2 EVSE will be available for sale on Feb 16.
 
EVDRIVER said:
What do you mean by another $700? ... I doubt this is public but the Schnieder L2 EVSE will be available for sale on Feb 16.
On top of the $100 they already took (my wording was poor, sorry). And thanks, I will keep an eye out for the other unit.
 
JasonT said:
EVDRIVER said:
What do you mean by another $700? ... I doubt this is public but the Schnieder L2 EVSE will be available for sale on Feb 16.
On top of the $100 they already took (my wording was poor, sorry). And thanks, I will keep an eye out for the other unit.


I would ask for free shipping:)
 
garygid said:
MW,
If you plan on opening it, I am willing to join you, if you would like.

Or, bring it (opened) to one of our next two SoCal Gatherings (Feb 12th at Cerritos Nissan, and the 19th at HTB in Santa Ana).

Hope this is helpful. But, yes, I can bring it to Cerritos Nissan too!

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2633
 
EVDRIVER said:
DarkStar said:
EVDRIVER said:
In addition, the 120v evse sends a different pilot signal to the charger even if it is the same current, the charger may not care if is sent a 120 signal and gets 240 but those details are yet to be determined.
This is not correct, the J1772-2010 specification states that only the maximum amperage is sent over the control pilot pin. No voltage information is passed at all and the on-board charger is required to be auto-ranging because of this.


Yes but I recall in the charger spec the signal is detected for the EVSE set voltage, this may be to shut off if the supply is over voltage. I believe I saw this in the charger service manual, I'm not saying it is a given but I recall two signals in the manual based on voltage.
DarkStar's got it - the EVSE doesn't have a signal that sends voltage info.

It doesn't need one, though, as the voltage is present on the AC wires - which the autoranging charger can detect as soon as the relays close in the EVSE.
 
That's correct and makes sense, I think the charger notes are misleading. Any universal voltage charger self adjusts as long as it does not have a switch.
 
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