2011, 2012 Nissan Leaf Leasing Information

[MrIanB]

This is what I got today from Local OK dealer. I guess they or Nissan are not really interested to sell Leaf here:

On the 2012 LEAF here's a few options:

1) If you do 39month lease: $0 down you're at $471/mo and this includes Tag, Title, & Licenses covered.

2) 39month lease: $2,000 down you're at $429/mo and TTL included as well.

Shop around your state/city if you can and should find a better deal. The new offers for October are geared towards purchases and not leasing. That may change later in the months if sales are sluggish.

Good luck,

Ian B

 

[davissc44]

I will be getting a black one. Not sure if it was on the lot or not. The dealer said that the two they had both sold the day before. I sort of didn't believe him but I guess it was true. He actually said that you got a really good deal on yours. I think our is new because he said he won't have it until Monday. Hope it was true. Enjoy yours.

 

[ljwobker]

I picked up my 2012 Leaf SV (Cayenne Red) last night, (fresh off the truck on Monday). My lease is 24 months and 12k miles per year. Paid $0 down and monthly payments with tax/title/etc. are $213.89 per month. Total cost of lease is $5,133.36.

That's really good. $5133/24,000 miles means you're paying something like 21c/mile in leasing costs to drive the car. Figure 4c "ish" for fuel, and you're talking about a drive-away cost of $0.25/mile. Nissan must REALLY want to move these things if they're letting them go for depreciation values this low.

 

[Ladewig]

I will be getting a black one. Not sure if it was on the lot or not. The dealer said that the two they had both sold the day before. I sort of didn't believe him but I guess it was true. He actually said that you got a really good deal on yours. I think our is new because he said he won't have it until Monday. Hope it was true. Enjoy yours.

That sounds right. I didn't see any other SVs when I was there. I'll definitely enjoy me. You as well with yours once it arrives.

 

[Ladewig]

That's really good. $5133/24,000 miles means you're paying something like 21c/mile in leasing costs to drive the car. Figure 4c "ish" for fuel, and you're talking about a drive-away cost of $0.25/mile. Nissan must REALLY want to move these things if they're letting them go for depreciation values this low.

Here are the specifics:
Sale Price: 33,886.55
Cash Down: 0
Gross Cap Cost: 33,027.55
Cap Cost Reduction: 8,050
Adj Cap Cost: 25,836.55
Residual: 21,091.70
Acquisition Fee: 595
Admin Fee: 199
Plates: 65

Base Payment: 199.11
Tax Payment: 14.78
Total Payment: 213.89

 

[TonyWilliams]

That's really good. $5133/24,000 miles means you're paying something like 21c/mile in leasing costs to drive the car. Figure 4c "ish" for fuel, and you're talking about a drive-away cost of $0.25/mile. Nissan must REALLY want to move these things if they're letting them go for depreciation values this low.

Here are the specifics:
Sale Price: 33,886.55
Cash Down: 0
Gross Cap Cost: 33,027.55
Cap Cost Reduction: 8,050
Adj Cap Cost: 25,836.55
Residual: 21,091.70
Acquisition Fee: 595
Admin Fee: 199
Plates: 65

Base Payment: 199.11
Tax Payment: 14.78
Total Payment: 213.89

Wow, thanks for posting that.

 

[mxp]

Thanks ljwobker, you bring up a really good point that most people overlook. In the end you have to look at how much you are paying in total. The deal that you got and to a lesser extent I got has some buried money from Nissan in it. My local dealer couldn't touch the other offer and I think it is helpful to know that Nissan is targeting specific areas with special incentives.

Here are my specific details
SALE PRICE : 26,041
CASH DOWN : 2,832.10 (MINUS FIRST PAYMENT)
CAP COST IS : 23,208.91
AQUISITION FEE: 595
ADMIN FEE: 199
PLATES: 38
SALES TAX : 735.43
TOTAL: 24,776.33

23 payments of 144.85

Hi Davis and Scott (Ladewig)

I don't understand leasing at all and I am learning from both your leasing experiences. Please help me understand this a little better.

From reading the posts so far, I can gather that both of you leased from the same sales person/dealership, chose the same model 2012 Leaf SV and the same 24-month term. Am I correct? Now, the only difference i can tell is Davis put a $2,832 down (as noted in the post above) where-as Scott did a zero down.

Scott's Leaf lease data is: (cut and pasted here)

Sale Price: 33,886.55
Cash Down: 0
Gross Cap Cost: 33,027.55
Cap Cost Reduction: 8,050
Adj Cap Cost: 25,836.55
Residual: 21,091.70
Acquisition Fee: 595
Admin Fee: 199
Plates: 65

Base Payment: 199.11
Tax Payment: 14.78
Total Payment: 213.89

Why then, is the sale price is higher by almost ~$3k difference in Scott's situation compared to Davis ($26k + $2832?

I sense, I am looking at these 2 deals wrongly, but I thought it was a good example to compare the "money down deal" versus the "no-money down deal" situation.

Thanks.

 

[topaz420]

Why then, is the sale price is higher by almost ~$3k difference in Scott's situation compared to Davis ($26k + $2832?

It's because Davis wrote his differently. His sale price was not actually 26,041 - it was probably 34,091 or something like that and he included the cap cost reduction of 8,050

 

[davissc44]

Topaz is correct. The easiest way to think about a lease is that there is a start and end cost. All the lease is then is the difference.

My start (adjusted cap) was 26,041
Scott's start (adjusted cap) was 25,837

The difference was due to Nissan kicking in additional money at the end of the month for him. I missed it by 2 days.

Here is the walk
MSRP - $35,200
Negotiated price - $34,041
After Fed incentive - $26,541
After regional Nissan $ - $26,041

$26,041 is the start point. The end point is what the car will be worth after 2 yrs. To simplify the math lets say that the start was $26k and after 2 years it will be worth $20k. The $6,000 difference is what I pay. I could pay $0 down and $250/mo, $3,000 down and $125/mo or any other combination. You are essentially paying the owner (dealer) for the depreciation while you are driving their car.

Yes this is the simplified version but it gets across the idea that the adjusted cap cost is the most important part of the lease. Nissan can also effectively change the cost by changing the depreciation factor.

Hope this helps.

 

[leafwing]

I have a question for the Dallas, TX area drivers who leased a LEAF.
I want to sell my 2011 and lease SL 2012. I was offered $249/mo and $2990 down payment.
Is this a good deal? I do not know how much they will offer me for my LEAF though.
Any advice is appreciated; this is my first lease ever.

 

[mxp]

Topaz is correct. The easiest way to think about a lease is that there is a start and end cost. All the lease is then is the difference.

My start (adjusted cap) was 26,041
Scott's start (adjusted cap) was 25,837

The difference was due to Nissan kicking in additional money at the end of the month for him. I missed it by 2 days.

Here is the walk
MSRP - $35,200
Negotiated price - $34,041
After Fed incentive - $26,541
After regional Nissan $ - $26,041

$26,041 is the start point. The end point is what the car will be worth after 2 yrs. To simplify the math lets say that the start was $26k and after 2 years it will be worth $20k. The $6,000 difference is what I pay. I could pay $0 down and $250/mo, $3,000 down and $125/mo or any other combination. You are essentially paying the owner (dealer) for the depreciation while you are driving their car.

Yes this is the simplified version but it gets across the idea that the adjusted cap cost is the most important part of the lease. Nissan can also effectively change the cost by changing the depreciation factor.

Hope this helps.

Hi topaz and davis,

Thanks for helping explain it. That makes sense now.

 

[ocean]

Pick up a SL today (Dealer gave me SL in SV price). 36 months lease. I am in Bay Area, CA.

MSRP: $38,640
Adjusted cap: $24,970.53
Drive-off (include down payment, 1st month payment, Tire fee, Registration Fee....): $2,500
Monthly Payment before sales tax (8.25%): $179.94 After tax: $194.79
Residual: $18,547.20

Total Payment = $194.79 x 35 + $2,500 drive-off - $2,500 CA rebate = $9,317.65 - $2,500 = $6,817.65

 

[guythall]

So, if I have an existing 20mpg ICE car:
Old Gas:1000 miles, 20 mpg, $4/gal = $200 per month on gas, plus $10/month oil & filter change = $210 / month
New LEAF: 1000 miles of electricity is about 300KWH at $0.10 = $30

Montly:
New LEAF Lease: $190 / mo (increased Drive-off by $195 to effectively take out first mo payment)
New LEAF Fuel: 30 / mo
less Old Gas Fuel/Oil: $210/ mo
NET: $ 20 / mo for a new car.

Drive-off (include down payment, Tire fee, Registration Fee....): $2,500 (actual would add back 1st mo pmt)
CA rebate = $2,500 (3 months later)

I wouldn't have to get rid of the Old Gas car either- but i'm now paying for 2 registations and insurance.

 

[ocean]

So, if I have an existing 20mpg ICE car:
Old Gas:1000 miles, 20 mpg, $4/gal = $200 per month on gas, plus $10/month oil & filter change = $210 / month
New LEAF: 1000 miles of electricity is about 300KWH at $0.10 = $30

Montly:
New LEAF Lease: $190 / mo (increased Drive-off by $195 to effectively take out first mo payment)
New LEAF Fuel: 30 / mo
less Old Gas Fuel/Oil: $210/ mo
NET: $ 20 / mo for a new car.

Drive-off (include down payment, Tire fee, Registration Fee....): $2,500 (actual would add back 1st mo pmt)
CA rebate = $2,500 (3 months later)

I wouldn't have to get rid of the Old Gas car either- but i'm now paying for 2 registations and insurance.

I had very similar calculation before I made the decision.
(NET: $50 - I guess my electric bill will jump to next tier for charging Leaf.)

 

[LEAFer]

NET: $ 20 / mo for a new car.

Actually $10 (calc. error ... using your numbers example)

The fact that the drive-off $ includes registration does throw a curve, since the 2nd and 3rd year are not included in the calculation, but then neither is insurance. Nevertheless ! Great deal. Practically a FREE CAR ! Exspecially considering the $2,500 drive-off is recovered thru the CVRP.

 

[jlsoaz]

So, if I have an existing 20mpg ICE car:
Old Gas:1000 miles, 20 mpg, $4/gal = $200 per month on gas, plus $10/month oil & filter change = $210 / month
New LEAF: 1000 miles of electricity is about 300KWH at $0.10 = $30

Montly:
New LEAF Lease: $190 / mo (increased Drive-off by $195 to effectively take out first mo payment)
New LEAF Fuel: 30 / mo
less Old Gas Fuel/Oil: $210/ mo
NET: $ 20 / mo for a new car.

Drive-off (include down payment, Tire fee, Registration Fee....): $2,500 (actual would add back 1st mo pmt)
CA rebate = $2,500 (3 months later)

I wouldn't have to get rid of the Old Gas car either- but i'm now paying for 2 registations and insurance.

Hi:

I am paying $327 per month (including all taxes, fees, what-not) for 39 months, $2000 down, I"m not quite sure what else. I just signed and took delivery yestereday. Are you saying that the check you write every month will be for 190 per month, or is there something else there? Maybe I missed the boat in some way.

I did over the last couple of months that here in AZ, the real-world amount that dealers quote on leases seems to be almost $100 per month higher than the advertised amount, after they figure out some way to inject this and that into it. For example, I got two separate Volt quotes during the specials in August. The national deal for $249 per month for 24 months translated in both cases to $347 or $348 per month in what I would actually have paid.

 

[mksE55]

seems his residual is about 3500.00 higher than mine when I bought the car other wise price is about the same. 32,000 SL, with 7500.00 gov rebate, 25,000 , mine was 289.00 x 35 ,w/ 5000.00 down PLTTL. if I remember correctly. but residual was 15,000.00

 

[madbrain]

So, if I have an existing 20mpg ICE car:
Old Gas:1000 miles, 20 mpg, $4/gal = $200 per month on gas, plus $10/month oil & filter change = $210 / month
New LEAF: 1000 miles of electricity is about 300KWH at $0.10 = $30

Montly:
New LEAF Lease: $190 / mo (increased Drive-off by $195 to effectively take out first mo payment)
New LEAF Fuel: 30 / mo
less Old Gas Fuel/Oil: $210/ mo
NET: $ 20 / mo for a new car.

Drive-off (include down payment, Tire fee, Registration Fee....): $2,500 (actual would add back 1st mo pmt)
CA rebate = $2,500 (3 months later)

I wouldn't have to get rid of the Old Gas car either- but i'm now paying for 2 registations and insurance.

Very nice deal. Too bad the math doesn't work nearly as well for me as the ICE car is 45mpg which my Prius is. 1000 miles/month at $4.5/gallon is $100/month in gas. Maintenance is prepaid including oil so, and it's every 10k miles anyway, so negligible cost.

Your 300 kWh may be optimistic for 1000 miles. I think more likely 330 kWh or so.

You must have a municipal utility to pay only $0.10/kWh electric average. Even with PG&E E9 I think $0.10/kWh is optimistic. You get 3-4 cents off peak but the costs will increase during peak times and may more than offset any savings. Average PG&E costs are 15 cents/kWh. Mine would go to 26 cents per calculations.

At 333 kWh and 26 cents per kWh , electricity cost is $86.58 . Only $13.42 less than the $100 gasoline cost with the Prius ...

It gets worse.

My insurance would go up $41/month if I added the Leaf . Or $14/month if I replaced the Prius with Leaf.
Registration would add $33/month if I added the Leaf. Or $17/month if I replaced the Prius with Leaf.

So even if I replaced the Prius with Leaf, it would cost
$195 - $13.52 + $14 + $17 = $212.48 more a month ... And then I would lose the ability to make long range trips.

Adding the Leaf and keeping the Prius would cost $195 - $14.58 + $41 + $33 = $254.42 more per month.

The monthly lease price of the Leaf would literally have to be negative a couple hundreds for it to make sense for me based on numbers only
Or gas to go to $12/gallon.

 

[cwerdna]

^^^
Yep, many of the people here who talk about how much cheaper it is to "fuel" a Leaf vs. an ICE car live in very cheap electricity states (e.g. WA) vs. ripoff PG&E.

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

So, if I have an existing 20mpg ICE car:
Old Gas:1000 miles, 20 mpg, $4/gal = $200 per month on gas, plus $10/month oil & filter change = $210 / month
New LEAF: 1000 miles of electricity is about 300KWH at $0.10 = $30

Montly:
New LEAF Lease: $190 / mo (increased Drive-off by $195 to effectively take out first mo payment)
New LEAF Fuel: 30 / mo
less Old Gas Fuel/Oil: $210/ mo
NET: $ 20 / mo for a new car.

Drive-off (include down payment, Tire fee, Registration Fee....): $2,500 (actual would add back 1st mo pmt)
CA rebate = $2,500 (3 months later)

I wouldn't have to get rid of the Old Gas car either- but i'm now paying for 2 registations and insurance.

Very nice deal. Too bad the math doesn't work nearly as well for me as the ICE car is 45mpg which my Prius is. 1000 miles/month at $4.5/gallon is $100/month in gas. Maintenance is prepaid including oil so, and it's every 10k miles anyway, so negligible cost.

Your 300 kWh may be optimistic for 1000 miles. I think more likely 330 kWh or so.

You must have a municipal utility to pay only $0.10/kWh electric average. Even with PG&E E9 I think $0.10/kWh is optimistic. You get 3-4 cents off peak but the costs will increase during peak times and may more than offset any savings. Average PG&E costs are 15 cents/kWh. Mine would go to 26 cents per calculations.

At 333 kWh and 26 cents per kWh , electricity cost is $86.58 . Only $13.42 less than the $100 gasoline cost with the Prius ...

It gets worse.

My insurance would go up $41/month if I added the Leaf . Or $14/month if I replaced the Prius with Leaf.
Registration would add $33/month if I added the Leaf. Or $17/month if I replaced the Prius with Leaf.

So even if I replaced the Prius with Leaf, it would cost
$195 - $13.52 + $14 + $17 = $212.48 more a month ... And then I would lose the ability to make long range trips.

Adding the Leaf and keeping the Prius would cost $195 - $14.58 + $41 + $33 = $254.42 more per month.

The monthly lease price of the Leaf would literally have to be negative a couple hundreds for it to make sense for me based on numbers only
Or gas to go to $12/gallon.

ok, so it doesnt work for you and that is too bad. i think that if you really did this you might find your worst case scenario you have laid out above is not the case and you will find that there are many hidden costs to driving a car including your time.

you live in the Bay Area as I did. One thing I found was that time was money, more so than any area I had ever lived (military brat here, i have lived a lot of places). another part of your equation you might want to figure is the time you spend getting gas. You have a Prius, too bad you average 45 mpg which means you get gas 3 times a month. calculate the time you spend doing that. I found that it took me about 12-20 minutes (depending on the wait time at the gas station) to fill up my Prius despite the fact that it was less than 200 yards detour from my commute. problem is; the commute was during rush hour which aggravated the time issue.

my other choice is hope that i had errands near the gas station (i use Costco exclusively because of the discount they give) when i need gas or make a special trip. the option of getting gas at an alternate station would provide very little in the way of time savings since i live technically in the suburbs but its very rural. (i live 3 blocks from County Fairground on basically an isthmus between two lakes) by the time i get to "civilization" 2 miles away, my gas station options START at 50 cents a gallon higher and UP.

just curious; how far is your commute and what type of driving? to average 3 miles per Kwh (per your "adjusted" estimate) means you are driving 70 mph with climate controls blasting. I think you will find that its hard to average above about 4.5 miles per Kwh on the freeway, but its also difficult to get below 3.5 miles/kwh especially when you live in an area that does not get real cold.

heat is a killer, A/C is pretty efficient. you will lose some range when A/C is on but not too badly.

finally; get with your local FB owners group and discuss your utility rate situation.