Why Leaf?

[DaveinOlyWA]

I own both a Leaf and a Plug-In Prius. I drive the Prius on a 20+ mile commute each way, and my wife has been driving the Leaf on her 6 mile each way commute.

Interesting choice. When I replace my wife's Altima it will be with with a plug-in hybrid. However I will use the LEAF for my longer commute and the plug-in for her shorter commute so we can drive electric almost all of the time.

Why would you not use your LEAF for your commute? 20 miles each way should not be a stretch even if you are travelling at 70 on the interstate and charge routinely to 80%. The Pip will be using gas all the way on the return journey right?

Not being critical, just want to understand your choices given that I intend to have the same mix of vehicle types before too long.

this is what we do with the LEAF/Prius. In Summer, the LEAF is more desired due to a great A/C and it is much nicer to drive if you are ignoring the range issues. so we plan the LEAF around it driving the longer commute most of the time. Now there has been a dozen times +/- that the Prius had to be used on a longer commute (most of that in the past month due to job change) and the Prius has a slight lead 7 to 5 on family trips. But all this has still allowed the LEAF to become "driving leader" 58-42%. now that winter is here, SO hates driving LEAF anywhere out of town (everytime i get in there after she has driven, the heat is set to 90 so gives me an idea of what her thoughts are on climate control) so in an effort to make her more comfortable on those winter days when she has to drive i got a heated jacket which is not the 100% solution but does arguably qualify as maybe the "75%" solution?

 

[Ingineer]

I have a 2008 Prius that I converted to Plug-in, and a 2011 Leaf. Both are economical and reliable cars, but the Leaf is amazingly fun to drive. Not that the Prius drives badly, but it just doesn't have the same fun quotient. There are times I have to do silly things to be able to use the Leaf for certain long trips, (finding charging) but I still do so almost every time.

If you can live with the restrictions the Leaf's range will impose, and you are not in a very hot climate, I definitely recommend it! Go take a test drive ASAP.

-Phil

 

[JPWhite]

I own both a Leaf and a Plug-In Prius. I drive the Prius on a 20+ mile commute each way, and my wife has been driving the Leaf on her 6 mile each way commute.

Interesting choice. When I replace my wife's Altima it will be with with a plug-in hybrid. However I will use the LEAF for my longer commute and the plug-in for her shorter commute so we can drive electric almost all of the time.

Why would you not use your LEAF for your commute? 20 miles each way should not be a stretch even if you are travelling at 70 on the interstate and charge routinely to 80%. The Pip will be using gas all the way on the return journey right?

Not being critical, just want to understand your choices given that I intend to have the same mix of vehicle types before too long.

this is what we do with the LEAF/Prius. In Summer, the LEAF is more desired due to a great A/C and it is much nicer to drive if you are ignoring the range issues. so we plan the LEAF around it driving the longer commute most of the time. Now there has been a dozen times +/- that the Prius had to be used on a longer commute (most of that in the past month due to job change) and the Prius has a slight lead 7 to 5 on family trips. But all this has still allowed the LEAF to become "driving leader" 58-42%. now that winter is here, SO hates driving LEAF anywhere out of town (everytime i get in there after she has driven, the heat is set to 90 so gives me an idea of what her thoughts are on climate control) so in an effort to make her more comfortable on those winter days when she has to drive i got a heated jacket which is not the 100% solution but does arguably qualify as maybe the "75%" solution?

I too have acquired a separate heating device. I have a heated blanket that keeps my back and posterior warm on cold days. I have turned the device on and off while looking at the information screen on the main screen and can't discern any noticeable power draw and it is very effective. The factory heater is both insipid and expensive in terms of miles lost. Still get cold feet though.

 

[surfingslovak]

Still get cold feet though.

JP, have you tried switching air to recirc? That could take care of that, it did for me. One has to remember hitting that button, but it's worth it. Another possibility is pressing the mode button until airflow is directed at the windshield only.

 

[JPWhite]

Still get cold feet though.

JP, have you tried switching air to recirc? That could take care of that, it did for me. One has to remember hitting that button, but it's worth it. Another possibility is pressing the mode button until airflow is directed at the windshield only.

Thanks for the tip I'll give it a try next week on the way to work. It promises to be cold again. 70 today

I appreciate you removing your heating control panel just to get a photo of the button for me :lol:

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Recirc does not work on WA. The windows fog up too fast

 

[ebill3]

Still get cold feet though.

JP, have you tried switching air to recirc? That could take care of that, it did for me. One has to remember hitting that button, but it's worth it. Another possibility is pressing the mode button until airflow is directed at the windshield only.

Using just CC, (not power eating defrost) can you really get airflow directed to the windshield only? Perhaps with Phil's mod, but I don't believe you can in stock configuration. In my car, the only windshield choice is windshield and feet.

Bill

 

[Ingineer]

I too have acquired a separate heating device. I have a heated blanket that keeps my back and posterior warm on cold days. I have turned the device on and off while looking at the information screen on the main screen and can't discern any noticeable power draw and it is very effective.

The 12V energy monitor is "faked". It doesn't actually read the current, it simply puts in fixed amounts for the main devices the car is aware of. If you add in 12V loads, even really large ones, you will not see any movement in that meter, so it's not useful for determining your 12V loads.

Given that the service manual indicates the maximum current the 12v outlet can support is 10A, It's probably safe to say your blanket is under 120W, and thus a pretty light load. Strangely, this port is fused with a 20A fuse, so in theory you could draw more then 10A. The wiring is awfully thin for 20A though!

-Phil

 

[JPWhite]

I too have acquired a separate heating device. I have a heated blanket that keeps my back and posterior warm on cold days. I have turned the device on and off while looking at the information screen on the main screen and can't discern any noticeable power draw and it is very effective.

The 12V energy monitor is "faked". It doesn't actually read the current, it simply puts in fixed amounts for the main devices the car is aware of. If you add in 12V loads, even really large ones, you will not see any movement in that meter, so it's not useful for determining your 12V loads.

Given that the service manual indicates the maximum current the 12v outlet can support is 10A, It's probably safe to say your blanket is under 120W, and thus a pretty light load. Strangely, this port is fused with a 20A fuse, so in theory you could draw more then 10A. The wiring is awfully thin for 20A though!

-Phil

The blanket documentation says 4amps so about 48 watts. Thanks so much for the rating on the 12v outlet. I will get a multi-port extension. Up to now I've been choosing between cell phone charge or heat. Now I know I can go up to 10amps safely I won't have to choose anymore

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

I too have acquired a separate heating device. I have a heated blanket that keeps my back and posterior warm on cold days. I have turned the device on and off while looking at the information screen on the main screen and can't discern any noticeable power draw and it is very effective.

The 12V energy monitor is "faked". It doesn't actually read the current, it simply puts in fixed amounts for the main devices the car is aware of. If you add in 12V loads, even really large ones, you will not see any movement in that meter, so it's not useful for determining your 12V loads.

Given that the service manual indicates the maximum current the 12v outlet can support is 10A, It's probably safe to say your blanket is under 120W, and thus a pretty light load. Strangely, this port is fused with a 20A fuse, so in theory you could draw more then 10A. The wiring is awfully thin for 20A though!

-Phil

The blanket documentation says 4amps so about 48 watts. Thanks so much for the rating on the 12v outlet. I will get a multi-port extension. Up to now I've been choosing between cell phone charge or heat. Now I know I can go up to 10amps safely I won't have to choose anymore

have you tried charging your cell thru USB?

 

[ebill3]

have you tried charging your cell thru USB?

Great suggestion. I have a short USB to micro USB adapter and the phone sits in the cup holder.

Bill

 

[JPWhite]

have you tried charging your cell thru USB?

I'll give it a go. Thanks for the tip.

 

[JPWhite]

have you tried charging your cell thru USB?

I just ordered a unit from Amazon. It comes with two 12v CLA's and two USB ports, one being 2.1amp for iPads etc. The cars USB USB is OK, but doesn't work for higher draw devices.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083C0Z6...iveASIN=B0083C0Z66&adid=1G14C674N3M0RRCWG8FH&

 

[ww73]

Since we're on the topic of USB charging, consider checking the cable.

USB has 2 charging modes, sync or charge, at 500mA or 1000mA.

On an Android phone, that's either USB or AC mode.

Most cables are sync cables and limited to 500mA. Under heavy use, i.e. GPS navigation, it's still a net discharge when plugged in.

This cable, for example, allows you to toggle between the two modes and give your phone that "quick charge" when it's running low.
http://shop.brando.com/Brando-WorkShop-USB-to-Micro-USB-Cable_p04161c0012d002.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[JPWhite]

Since we're on the topic of USB charging, consider checking the cable.

USB has 2 charging modes, sync or charge, at 500mA or 1000mA.

On an Android phone, that's either USB or AC mode.

Most cables are sync cables and limited to 500mA. Under heavy use, i.e. GPS navigation, it's still a net discharge when plugged in.

This cable, for example, allows you to toggle between the two modes and give your phone that "quick charge" when it's running low.
http://shop.brando.com/Brando-WorkShop-USB-to-Micro-USB-Cable_p04161c0012d002.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks also for the tips.

I am using the USB port for now (especially since it's in the 30's today) but using the USB cable/port changes the entertainment system to select USB by default for the media, rather than the Bluetooth I prefer. A change there is required each time I start up. Also I have to tell Android to charge only if I wish to be able to use the SD card with podkicker, my preferred podcast app. Lot of futzing compared to the total automation with the Bluetooth. I suppose I've got spoiled.

At least by chance Christmas music is playing by default on USB

I'll have my dedicated charging capability back before too long.

 

[Caracalover]

I own both a Leaf and a Plug-In Prius. I drive the Prius on a 20+ mile commute each way, and my wife has been driving the Leaf on her 6 mile each way commute. On the Prius I have been able to get about 100-104 mpg on my way to work on a full charge (20 miles). I get about 57 mpg on the way back home. I'm working on getting a plug at work so that I can average the same coming home as getting to work..

I have a question - Why don't you drive the leaf, and have your wife drive the Prius? Seems like you would not have to buy gas at all if you made that switch for the daily drives. You wouldn't even need to charge to 100%, nor would you need a charge spot at work. You must have a reason, just curious as to what it is.

Good Question. We are still in debate over it really. We bought the Leaf after the Prius. We traded in my wife's car when we got the Leaf, so we basically considered that her car. However, this conversation has come up about which would be the most economical. We still didn't have the level 2 charger when we started this routine, and I did drive the Leaf to work once. When I returned home after also having to drive an additional 20 miles on a lunch hour, I was near empty on the charge (about 15 miles left anyway). There wasn't enough time to get back to a full charge with Level 1 Charging for the next day for me to get to and from work again. That issue has been resolved with the install of the level 2 charger... However.. There is also the issue that I work for a college and "sometimes" I'm called to a sister campus which is about 40 miles away. If that happens, I'm afraid I will be beyond the range capabilities. That instance is pretty rare, but it does happen at least a few times a semester. There might be a way around that issue if I run by my wife's work to swap cars on my way to the sister campus.. but for now.. our arrangement really has no complications with the way it is. But you're right.. it might be more economical to switch cars, and we have been discussing it. In the meantime, my wife does not work on Fridays, but I do half a day with no lunch. So I have decided that I will drive the Leaf to and from work on Fridays and use no gas on fridays.

Makes sense now. Thanks for the reply. I would think that when the job demands you to change campuses without notice, it would be on them to aid you in making the journey. What if you were in a car pool? My job (City) once guaranteed my way home and although that program may have expired, I know it used to be a policy. You might check with them since this does fall under that same category. I am allowed to park in the carpool spaces with my Leaf, although I drive alone so it seems plausible. Don't know if the PIP would qualify for that or not.

 

[mazdaboi]

Too simple a question. Anyone who is considering a LEAF needs to do their homework carefully. Don't get me wrong, I love mine and I'm happy to tell everyone how great it is, but there are limitations that are unique to a fully electric vehicle and no one should pull the trigger without fully understanding them.

Very true statement! I unfortunately pulled the trigger without researching! LOL But I have adapted to the small limitations of the vehicle, but have saved over $300 in fuel in over a month and that is very appealing for anyone on a tight budget.

The leaf is great, no doubt, I commute 68miles RT every day on a 100% charge. I could probabbly make it on 80% however i dont normally go straight home so the extra few miles of charge helps. I leased so Im not worried about the battery capacity or life as in 36months ill be giving the car back to get a newer LEAF or another EV.

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Since we're on the topic of USB charging, consider checking the cable.

USB has 2 charging modes, sync or charge, at 500mA or 1000mA.

On an Android phone, that's either USB or AC mode.

Most cables are sync cables and limited to 500mA. Under heavy use, i.e. GPS navigation, it's still a net discharge when plugged in.

This cable, for example, allows you to toggle between the two modes and give your phone that "quick charge" when it's running low.
http://shop.brando.com/Brando-WorkShop-USB-to-Micro-USB-Cable_p04161c0012d002.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

power usage is obviously highly dependent upon location but I use GPS EVERY day for work and according to my power usage profile, GPS is pretty low on the totem pole with social media leading the pack by far (FYI; it used to be display but learned the most effective way to lengthen battery time was turning brightness down when it was not needed. I have it at roughly 25% and only turn it up when outside in Sunshine)

But I also considered the time factor since GPS is generally used much less (in most cases I only turn it on for the last 15-20 mins of trip) so reset the profile just before starting GPS a few times and guess what?? Facebook was still first and this basically started when I installed messenger last Summer. (yeah, long time holdout) Removing that almost cut the power usage in half.

 

[JPWhite]

(FYI; it used to be display but learned the most effective way to lengthen battery time was turning brightness down when it was not needed. I have it at roughly 25% and only turn it up when outside in Sunshine)
.

I use adaptive brightness so that it dims/brightens automatically.

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

(FYI; it used to be display but learned the most effective way to lengthen battery time was turning brightness down when it was not needed. I have it at roughly 25% and only turn it up when outside in Sunshine)
.

I use adaptive brightness so that it dims/brightens automatically.

ya know I tried that with pretty limited success. granted its all about location but my S 6 is barely 6 months old and I just don't see this phone having an acceptable battery life by the time it hits its first birthday. FYI; first phone ever without a user replaceable battery... HUGE MISTAKE