The 62kWh Battery Topic

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LeftieBiker said:
A word of caution about that: it seems that there is a glitch in the energy monitoring system. It doesn't show an increase in consumption when you use the heater and A/C at the same time, even though physics suggests that that can't be the case. This is true even at higher temps.

Glitch in the Nissan system? I noticed that the range never changed if AC was flipped on "when heat was turned on" but also noticed the range reduction is a preset value probably based on kwh available of roughly 8% or so although even that isn't consistent. But LEAF Spy def shows it but in most cases, AC power used is rarely more than a few hundred watts in heat or defrost mode.

**Edited for clarity**
 
LeftieBiker said:
If they were wired in parallel then the amperage draw would still increase when both were in use at once.

All Leaf power consumers are "wired in parallel", with only one battery current sensor, providing data (analog/digital)
to the BMS. It's the processor within the BMS that determines how and when battery current changes get reported
to the CAN with access by LeafSpy's CAN addresses.

LeftieBiker said:
I think that some of these more or less fixed values were just programmed into the monitor, rather than being measured, and that someone goofed and left out this particular value.

It's unlikely.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Then what is your theory as to why the energy monitor doesn't 'see' it when the A/C load is added to the heat load..?

I never use those screens, a waste of time, and anything other than a clamp-on amp-meter for battery load testing of convenience features.
 
lorenfb said:
LeftieBiker said:
Then what is your theory as to why the energy monitor doesn't 'see' it when the A/C load is added to the heat load..?

I never use those screens, a waste of time, and anything other than a clamp-on amp-meter for battery load testing of convenience features.

If you are referring to the traction battery, there is no good place to attach a clamp-on meter. If you are referring to the 12V battery, the current sensor near the negative terminal measures battery current only (charging or discharging). The output of the DC-DC converter which is supplying all of the auxiliary power while the car is in use is not displayed by Leaf Spy.
 
Here is an Edmunds driver testing a 2021 S+. Notice it's highway performance, quite a bit higher than the inside EV test with the larger rims. Pretty comparable to the MY SR (not sure how you even find those) and the M3 SR+.


https://youtu.be/ERoSVfxlQM8
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
Here is an Edmunds driver testing a 2021 S+. Notice it's highway performance, quite a bit higher than the inside EV test with the larger rims. Pretty comparable to the MY SR (not sure how you even find those) and the M3 SR+.


https://youtu.be/ERoSVfxlQM8

So this test uses GOM Jr... (The SOC meter) which means the range test was actually about 89.7% to 18.9% or 70.8% which is just another example of the LEAF easily exceeding the EPA even at 75 mph. Not a surprise. Now wondering how the Bolters will shoot the 60 times down? :lol:
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
DougWantsALeaf said:
I have also timed my Leaf at 6.7-6.8 seconds 0-60.

Same, although it was a challenge to launch properly w/o spinning. I briefly considered dropping PSI to 32...

That and you have to turn off all the safety features if you want to really launch, but the tires on the Leaf just can't handle it short of using racing tires. I'm sure someone could easily hit a 5 or 6 second 0-60 in the Leaf after a lot of tuning and work. :D
 
The S+ has never been UDDS tested..as far as I have found. NISSAN just provided a guess (estimate), and my guess is that it conservative.

Between the lighter smaller rims, narrower tires, lower ride height, less taxing electronics, and modestly lighter overall weight, the S+ was (as its gone now) the value champ in the 200+ ev world.
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
I do miss the 775 gids I had when the car was new. The psychology if a slowly shrinking battery capacity, I guess is kind of like aging. You want it to stop, but know it won't.
At least for those people who regularly check for battery degradation, the LEAF really does select for people who can tolerate the drip-drip of bad news with a calm response. The part I find fascinating is the feeling I get from some posters that they derive satisfaction from the crappy LEAF battery since it gives them something to post about and commune over.

Is LEAF ownership a gentle form of masochism ? That is probably an exaggeration since price is the main draw for LEAF ownership, but there is something not psychologically healthy going on here amongst some of the people who put up monthly blood letting figures.

---
I replaced a LEAF with a Chevy Bolt a few months ago. Reason #1 to not buy another LEAF was CHAdeMO, and reason #2 was to have a battery that I can expect to stay the same from month to month (though not year to year.) It is too early to say if the Bolt meets that performance spec but I'm optimistic.
 
My most recent LeafSpy screen-shot after +53K miles now. I frequently QC and show so mercy to the battery, regardless of the temperature outside or SoC%.

Compared to my 2013 SV, it was at 72% SoH by +53K miles and had a noticeable decrease on the range compared to when it was new.

Still getting exactly the range it was advertised as for my 2020+, plus more since I can still easily beat the EPA estimates of that time.
Using the average 27 MPG for a mid-sized car, if I had to pay for all the gas for the last 2 years, I would have paid over (53000 / 27 = 1,963 gallons of gas, 2021 average gas price for my state $3.50, 2022 $3.66, 981.5 gallons X $3.50 = $3,435.25, 981.5 X $3.66 = $3,592.29) totals out to $7,027.54 for gas cost, alone. Not including oil changes, air filters, oil filter, belts, coolant, brake pads, etc. that I did not need to pay for. Not even going to bother with that math, the savings alone plus what I continue to save will easily pay out in the long run defeating any savings I might have gained in the short-term had I bought a ICE vehicle instead. Even including the electricity that I had to pay for, which works out to $800 (that's a high guess since rates were actually cheaper years ago) at my state's current kW/h rate would have easily been eaten up by the oil changes and other ICE maintenance over those 2 years.

BVbitWE.png
 
Even including the electricity that I had to pay for, which works out to $800 (that's a high guess since rates were actually cheaper years ago) at my state's current kW/h rate would have easily been eaten up by the oil changes and other ICE maintenance over those 2 years.

You mention that you frequently DCFC, does your electric cost of about $800 include these costs? Using the sort of standard $.40 per kWh for DCFC the cost comparison is about equal to an ICE getting 40 MPG..... (assuming 4 m/kWh and 4 dollar gas, for rough figures...)

Charging at home is where my savings happen.
 
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