Official Hyundai Ioniq 5 topic

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'd been house & pet-sitting for several weeks while friends took a combined business/30th Anniversary trip to Europe and elsewhere, and between the extra two hours a day of commuting by bike and mass transit, including the 720 ft. climb in the last mile on the return, and 45 minute dog walks morning and evening (he's a sweet dog, but in no hurry to take care of business), I haven't had the time or energy to read this site or others, let alone post. My friends got back a couple of weeks ago, and in celebration of my renewed freedom and the relative lack of fire smoke compared to the past two years, I took a couple of badly needed trips up to the Yosemite high country to do some hiking and peak-bagging.

Even better, I found a couple who are essentially running a Turo rental agency out of their apartment. They've got nine BEVs: two Mach-Es; two ID.4s (Pro and Pro S, both RWD); Ioniq 5 (SEL AWD), EV6 (Wind RWD); Bolt EUV (2LT I think), an i4, and one more I'm not sure of, probably a Model 3 or Y. I'd been trying to find an Ioniq 5, EV6 or Niro BEV for a while, but these were the first that were relatively affordable and accessible by public transit and walking, so jumped on them. I rented the Ioniq for 3 days for the first trip, and the EV6 same for the second as I would be doing essentially the same drive on both trips, through Yosemite and over Tioga Pass down to Lee Vining, plus shorter local drives to trail heads, so could directly compare them. I also found a 2022 Niro elsewhere that I hope to take on a similar trip in mid-September, and will be posting that review/report when I do.

So, here's my Ioniq review, and I'll be posting the EV6 review in that topic soon [See https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=625032#p625032]. I recommend reading them both, as I didn't repeat every little point in both posts.

Per my request they'd just finished charging the car at an FC nearby shortly before I arrived, so it was at 97% SoC when I picked it up. I spent 1/2 hour or so sitting in the car with the owner making sure I got all the driving, charging, climate etc. options set the way I wanted them. I'd read the owner's manual online, but the damned thing is longer than some James Michener novels I've read - 663 pages :eek: and not all that clearly written. Although I took notes of what I wanted, trying to remember where every selection was on what screen using what control etc. was a bit much, so I asked him to sit with me and correct any mistakes I made.

That done I drove home, loaded my gear and set off at 94% SoC, 279 mi. showing on the GoM, Eco mode, Driver-only HVAC, 80 deg. ambient, fan-only, Saturday 1:27 p.m.

I normally do this drive on a Friday evening/night, after the commuters and tourists are off the roads, so traffic was heavier and driving was slower than normal for me. As I was also trying to see what kind of max. range I could get, I kept the A/C off even though the ambient temp was mostly in the mid to upper '90s and briefly hit 100 on Hwy 120 east of Oakdale, before starting the climb and the temp dropping.

The car's very roomy inside and from reviews definitely has more headroom than the EV6 - my 6'3" friend sat in it, and with the seat all the way down had about 1" of clearance, and both the front and 60/40 rear seats slide and recline so you can maximize seats up cargo or passenger space. With the rear seat slid back he was also able to sit behind himself, albeit with knees kind of high.

Despite being longer than my Forester by 7.4", it's EPA seats-up cargo area is almost 5 cu. ft. less. The cargo area is shallower than my car, but is longer and wider (I believe. Meant to measure it after the trip but got busy and forgot), and the latter is more important for me to carry packs, scuba tanks etc. or sleep in.

Sleeping.

Seats folded down it felt like I might be able to fit two 20" sleeping pads side by side - it would certainly be possible for two side sleepers to fit. It also has a two position slide out cargo floor. With it installed flat the floor is level with the base of the folded seat backs, with about a 4" high space underneath it for storage (EVSE and flat repair kit were in there, with lots more room). Or you can slide it out and down and gain some more depth, but no longer have a flush floor with only a small rear lip for loading/sliding cargo in.

The height of the cargo area is deeper than the EV6, and it was just possible for me to sit up straight without brushing my head when lying down on the back. For sleeping, if you're about my height (6'0") or taller, as with my Forester you'll want to remove and reinstall the center headrest to provide support for your upper back and head.

The inside lighting controls suck, being touch sensitive and hard to find in the dark, and while there may be some mode (utility or maybe accessory) that will allow you to use them without having to put the car in ready mode, I never figured out how to do that. Same goes for the windows, and it's nice to be able to use lights and windows while sleeping in the back without having to reach forward and push the start-stop switch. It does come with a smart key so you may be able to do it that way.

Personally I'd opt for the SE rather than mid-trim SEL or top-trim Limited, as only the former comes with cloth rather than leatherette seat covers, and has a manual rather than power driver's seat. The other 'upgrades' that come with the higher trims are either unnecessary for me (e.g. phone controls, which I'd never use while the car's in motion even if I could still hear it, , and flush, power-extending door handles), irrelevant (upgraded audio for a very deaf person), or not desired by me (DAS, and power handles/ as above), except for the heated steering wheel on the Limited which falls into the nice to have but not required category for me. All trims come with power liftgate, which to me is unnecessary, expensive to buy and repair, slow, and along with the door handles prone to failure in extreme weather.

Far too many controls are on the touch screen or use touch-sensitive buttons, in particular climate settings and seat heaters, and they are simply dangerous to use while driving. Even the fan speed controls are touch sensitive rather than physical. Per reviews the EV6 seems to do slightly better here, and I found it so as well - see that topic.

OTOH, the Ioniq has better visibility than the EV6, and while it falls short of my Forester (as does virtually every car, which was part of the reason I bought it), it was acceptable. The only area I would say was poor to fair was rear view, as the high rear seat back, downward-curving roof and fixed outboard head rests gave a limited aperture, albeit better than the EV6 owing to the more steeply sloped rear window on the Ioniq. Removing the center headrest improved things directly to the rear; the bottom rear corner views were still blocked by the outboard headrests which are molded parts of the seat, but I could live with that. The Limited has removable outboard headrests, but comes with lots of other crap I don't want/need. Rear-side view was acceptable but could certainly be improved, although the blind-spot warning with indication on the mirrors makes that less of an issue. Oh, and the front fenders curve down and are invisible, but the car's fairly short out there so not a big deal.

Reviews generally say the EV6 has sportier handling and ride and better steering feel, with the Ioniq giving a more comfortable ride for long trips, and I agree with that possibly excepting the Ioniq's steering feel, which was fine. It's a big, fairly heavy car so not something you throw around, but I found it acceptable in all those areas, in fact feeling much like my Forester. Thanks to its very long wheelbase the Ionic has a larger turning circle than either the EV6 or ID.4, in fact it's 39.3', which can make turning around on one+ lane forest roads or maneuvering in tight parking lots a chore.

Acceleration. It's a rocket! I thought the Bolt (0-60 in 6.5 sec.) I drove on a similar trip in 2020 was fast passing at altitude, but it's governed to a max of 93 or so and the accel falls off a bit at highway speeds. The Ioniq's 4.5" 0-60, and seems to have little fall off at highway speeds - I was too busy making sure not to hit the car(s) I was passing and staying in the lane to be watching the speedo before I backed off, but saw speeds in the very high 90s several times shortly after at start speeds from the 20s to the 70s. Basically, if you want to pass you can, but use Normal or Sport mode if in a hurry - Eco limits the power and maps the pedal to require much longer travel.

I left it in Eco most of the time except when passing (driving mode push button on the steering wheel, easy to use), and also used the Adaptive CC much of the time while stuck behind slow movers. ACC is very convenient but I remain concerned about becoming complacent with it, assuming the car will always bail you out and thus letting your attention wander. Even though I'm very aware of this, I found myself on several occasions devoting the majority of my attention to the damned touchscreen for far too long, while trusting the ACC to prevent rear-ending someone. I'd prefer normal CC (combined with better switchology) until such time as ACC/AEB can deal with fairly common cases such as the lead car changing lanes to deal with a stopped car in the lane. Teslas have hit too many stopped cars in just this case, and no one else's system can deal with this either yet.

Charging speed.

I've been interested in the Korean twins primarily because of their higher voltage (697V) packs which allow them to benefit from 350kW chargers, and I wasn't disappointed. It would probably have been better to have rented the Niro first, so I won't be so disappointed/impatient with its very slow charging by comparison, but couldn't do so.

Here's charging times using a Chargepoint 62.5kW charger at Groveland, a 350kW EA charger at Yosemite Westgate Lodge in Buck Meadows, and a 150kW EA charger in Castro Valley.

Groveland, arrived at Groveland @ 3:40, 115 miles and about 2,700 feet higher than home, mostly freeway/highway driving at 5-10 mph over the speed limits, i.e. driving flow of traffic speed. Did some passing too. SoC 50% so used 44% from home, GoM reading 145 miles, temp 92 deg. I didn't need to charge here, but given my past experiences with EA wanted to make sure I could charge here in case I was unable to at the EA 11 miles east. I've had almost no problems activating CP chargers using my CP card. Charging from 50-60% took 10 minutes, and the GoM now read 176 miles.

Drove 11 miles east to the EA site 126 mi./2,900' higher from home, and arrived at 56% SoC, GoM 160 miles, temp 93 deg.

No luck tapping my phone on the spot to start a charge (I'm now something like 0-8 doing this; I suspect my phone , a Motorola e6, lacks whatever capability is required to use this, but AFAIA EA doesn't specify what capability your phone needs anywhere). Got on the phone with EA, and after 5 minutes of listening to Muzak got CS. They tried to talk me through using the app to start a charge (a feature I believe they added since I drove a Bolt in October 2020, no doubt due to the numerous failures and customer complaints trying to tap the phone to activate a charge using phone taps), but for some reason while sites further away were showing on the app, this one (and Bridgeport) weren't, so eventually they activated it remotely. Luckily I was carrying a portable Wi-Fi hotspot, as the captioning app I have on my phone requires Wi-Fi. I believe the car can also be a hotspot, but don't know how to activate that.

SoC%/Time/Charging kW

56% / 4:38 / -------
------ / 4:41 / 127kW
75% / 4 :44 / 130kW
80% / 4:46 / -------- A/C on, set to 78 deg.
85% / 4:48 / 91kW
90% / 4:51 / 62kW A/C set to 72 deg.
95% / 4:56 / 44kW
99% / 5:05 / shut off 1% short.

The GoM now read 302 miles, and I took 36 kWh. total time from 56 to 80% was 8 minutes, 80-90% only took 5 minutes more, and 90-99% another 14 minutes, so 27 minutes total. Starting at such a high SoC I didn't get the benefit of the higher voltage pack.

I drove from there using fan-only the 80 miles over Tioga Pass to Lee Vining, arriving with 69% SoC/ GoM 198 miles/ avg. mi./kWh 3.3 from the charge), and used the free L2 chargers in L2 Vining just to make sure they were working. Got 3.7 kW (these are shared Clipper Creek HCS-40s i.e 32A max., and I got 7.4kW when I was the only car charging).

Drove to various trailheads/did various hikes/climbs, and charged to 100%/ 293 mi. GoM using the L2 chargers above before heading home (with a small detour on the way to a trailhead from which I climbed a peak). Starting from the trailhead a couple of miles east of Tioga Pass @ 4:10 p.m./74 deg., did lots of coasting/regening all the way down from Tioga Pass to the 108/120 intersection aka Yosemite Junction, for which the regen paddles are great, then mostly highways/freeways the rest of the way home with the CC set at 70, 75, 78 or 80 most of the way. As someone who prefers to drive and has always owned sticks, and who does a lot of mountain driving with steep descents, having something to do to keep me engaged is important, so I want to be able to adjust regen easily and quickly while driving. These cars and the Bolt/EuV have such capability, thanks to their paddles. The Niro and I believe the Kona do as well.

After getting home @ 8:43 pm (210 miles from Lee Vining, 35% SoC/GoM 91 miles, avg. mi./kWh 4.3; I saw 8.3 at Yosemite Junction), the next morning I drove a couple of miles to the 150kW EA charging site at the BoA in Castro Valley, 212.5 mi. from Lee Vining/32% SoC/GoM 83 mi.. temp 61 deg., I charged to 80%.

SoC%/Time/ Charging kW

32% / 6:58 / --------
------ / 7:04 / 127kW
45% / 7:12 / 63kW
50% / 7:15 / 63kW
55% / 7:19 / 64kW
60% / 7:22 / 65kW
65% / 7:26 / 66kW
70% / 7:30 / 66kW
75% / 7:33 / 67kW
80% / 7:36 / 68kW Charge stopped. GoM 222 miles.

So, 32-80% took 38 minutes. The charging time/rates at this EA site should be compared to the EV6's, which were considerably better despite these cars sharing the same battery and charging capability etc. I suspect the charger I used this time was rate-limited for some reason.

If anyone's got any other questions, I'll do my best to answer them. I'm trying to get back into reading and posting regularly, but my friends need me to house- & pet-sit for them several times over the next couple of months, thankfully for just a few days at a time rather than weeks, so I may be intermittent.
 
'22 Niro EV tops out at around 70ish kW. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRGgOdjXWOY.

You would be majorly disappointed with it when DC FCing it vs. an EV6 or Ioniq 5 on 350 kW chargers.

I wouldn't bother using NFC to start sessions on EA. Use the app itself to start.
 
cwerdna said:
'22 Niro EV tops out at around 70ish kW. <snip>

You would be majorly disappointed with it when DC FCing it vs. an EV6 or Ioniq 5 on 350 kW chargers.

I wouldn't bother using NFC to start sessions on EA. Use the app itself to start.

Oh, I know I'm going to be impatient, as the 700V cars have spoiled me, and that kind of charging speed is what I want and realistically, need. Unfortunately no one yet makes the car I really want, which is something like the 2023 Niro in size (but has the physical HVAC controls of the 2022 and earlier Niro rather than the same touch-sensitive controls as the EV6), plus AWD and the high voltage pack of the I5/EV6. But we're getting there. Of course, now that none of these qualify for the fed. tax credit/rebate, lease prices took a big jump.

The app mostly works okay, when you've got a signal. Trying to activate a charge for the EV6 at the EA in Tracy, nothing doing.
 
GRA said:
No luck tapping my phone on the spot to start a charge (I'm now something like 0-8 doing this; I suspect my phone , a Motorola e6, lacks whatever capability is required to use this, but AFAIA EA doesn't specify what capability your phone needs anywhere).
A Google search for that Motorola e6 turned up https://www.motorola.com/us/smartphones-moto-e6/p?skuId=334. Under specifications, its says NFC No, so of course tapping won't work.

You need a phone with https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near-field_communication. https://seritag.com/learn/using-nfc/nfc-logos has some example NFC logos. You can stop trying until you get a phone w/NFC.

Their page also mentions Android version 9. I don't know how correct https://www.androidcentral.com/heres-when-your-motorola-phone-will-get-android-10-update is, but if it can't go beyond Android 9, that's ancient. Per https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_version_history#Android_9_Pie, it's from 2018.

Android 13 has begun rolling out. Android security updates come out every month: https://source.android.com/docs/security/bulletin of which you receive few to none each month. So, you probably have hundreds if not thousands of unpatched and never will be patched vulnerabilities. Your phone has been https://www.trendmicro.com/vinfo/us/security/definition/zero-day-vulnerability for years.

Here are some zero days that have been exploited on Android:
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/actively-exploited-android-zero-day-impacts-google-samsung-devices/
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/may-android-security-updates-patch-4-zero-days-exploited-in-the-wild/
https://www.techrepublic.com/article/packaged-zero-day-vulnerabilities-android-attacks/

Recommend you ditch and get something that receives regular security updates. Pixel 6 and 6 Pro per https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/4457705#when_updates&zippy=%2Cpixel-later-pixel-phones will receive security updates until Oct 2026. 6a will receive them until July 2027.

I had to retire my work Pixel 3 for a 6 due to end of security updates on the 3 and a requirement that our phones accessing corporate Gmail, calendar, etc. be up to date. (I'm an iOS guy but intentionally carry an Android phone for that purpose.)
GRA said:
They tried to talk me through using the app to start a charge (a feature I believe they added since I drove a Bolt in October 2020, no doubt due to the numerous failures and customer complaints trying to tap the phone to activate a charge using phone taps), but for some reason while sites further away were showing on the app, this one (and Bridgeport) weren't, so eventually they activated it remotely. Luckily I was carrying a portable Wi-Fi hotspot, as the captioning app I have on my phone requires Wi-Fi. I believe the car can also be a hotspot, but don't know how to activate that.
Don't think so. If you skip to 4:04 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDHwGd6_nM4, you'll see he's starting from the app. He's using an Android phone. Video is from June 2019. At 7:14, you can see he's using some "Honor" (https://www.hihonor.com/global/, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honor_(brand)) phone.
 
cwerdna said:
GRA said:
No luck tapping my phone on the spot to start a charge (I'm now something like 0-8 doing this; I suspect my phone , a Motorola e6, lacks whatever capability is required to use this, but AFAIA EA doesn't specify what capability your phone needs anywhere).
A Google search for that Motorola e6 turned up https://www.motorola.com/us/smartphones-moto-e6/p?skuId=334. Under specifications, its says NFC No, so of course tapping won't work.

You need a phone with https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near-field_communication. https://seritag.com/learn/using-nfc/nfc-logos has some example NFC logos. You can stop trying until you get a phone w/NFC.

Their page also mentions Android version 9. I don't know how correct https://www.androidcentral.com/heres-when-your-motorola-phone-will-get-android-10-update is, but if it can't go beyond Android 9, that's ancient. Per https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_version_history#Android_9_Pie, it's from 2018.

Android 13 has begun rolling out. Android security updates come out every month: https://source.android.com/docs/security/bulletin of which you receive few to none each month. So, you probably have hundreds if not thousands of unpatched and never will be patched vulnerabilities. Your phone has been https://www.trendmicro.com/vinfo/us/security/definition/zero-day-vulnerability for years.

Here are some zero days that have been exploited on Android:
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/actively-exploited-android-zero-day-impacts-google-samsung-devices/
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/may-android-security-updates-patch-4-zero-days-exploited-in-the-wild/
https://www.techrepublic.com/article/packaged-zero-day-vulnerabilities-android-attacks/

Recommend you ditch and get something that receives regular security updates. Pixel 6 and 6 Pro per https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/4457705#when_updates&zippy=%2Cpixel-later-pixel-phones will receive security updates until Oct 2026. 6a will receive them until July 2027.

I had to retire my work Pixel 3 for a 6 due to end of security updates on the 3 and a requirement that our phones accessing corporate Gmail, calendar, etc. be up to date. (I'm an iOS guy but intentionally carry an Android phone for that purpose.)


Thanks. I am definitely not smartphone savvy since I use it so rarely, mainly for texts and occasionally to access the web. But I never use it to order anything, nor do I have any of the pay apps, do I keep personal info that would allow someone to hack any of my bank accounts etc., nor have I ever scanned a QR code so I'm not too worried about its vulnerability,. Besides, it was cheap ($40 at Best Buy last year) replacing an even cheaper and lower capability phone that I'd had for two years, but which had recently suffered a cracked screen.

At least my current phone has attitude sensor and compass capability, both of which my old phone lacked, and which come in handy for some of the mapping/GPS apps I use. And even that phone was a considerable upgrade from the bottom of the line flip phone I had from December 2007-2019 - it didn't even have a camera (didn't want or need one), but as my hearing got worse it was getting tedious texting with each key having three letters on it. As it is I have a yearly plan that costs me $125, and gives me something like 1,500 calls (almost never make one, so almost all roll over), the same number of texts (I usually have several hundred to a thousand to roll over), and 1.5GB of data for the year. As I normally use free WiFi, I use only a fraction of that as well. And my phone spends most of its time in airplane mode - the last thing I I want is for anyone to think I'm instantly available 24/7. In short, I'm anything but a power phone user.


GRA said:
They tried to talk me through using the app to start a charge (a feature I believe they added since I drove a Bolt in October 2020, no doubt due to the numerous failures and customer complaints trying to tap the phone to activate a charge using phone taps), but for some reason while sites further away were showing on the app, this one (and Bridgeport) weren't, so eventually they activated it remotely. Luckily I was carrying a portable Wi-Fi hotspot, as the captioning app I have on my phone requires Wi-Fi. I believe the car can also be a hotspot, but don't know how to activate that.

Don't think so. If you skip to 4:04 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDHwGd6_nM4, you'll see he's starting from the app. He's using an Android phone. Video is from June 2019. At 7:14, you can see he's using some "Honor" (https://www.hihonor.com/global/, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honor_(brand)) phone.[/quote]

I stand corrected on the date, but the lack of reliability still holds. Plugshare is full of accounts of people being unable to activate EA chargers (other networks, too, of course), via any of the methods, although using the app seems to be more reliable than using NFC (an acronym I'm just learning). I know I've failed at using NFC (for obvious reasons), the app, and the credit-card I pre-registered, although my success rate went up considerably on these two recent trips.
 
GRA said:
Thanks. I am definitely not smartphone savvy since I use it so rarely, mainly for texts and occasionally to access the web. But I never use it to order anything, nor do I have any of the pay apps, do I keep personal info that would allow someone to hack any of my bank accounts etc., nor have I ever scanned a QR code so I'm not too worried about its vulnerability,. Besides, it was cheap ($40 at Best Buy last year) replacing an even cheaper and lower capability phone that I'd had for two years, but which had recently suffered a cracked screen.
Just because you haven't scanned QR codes doesn't make your phone invulnerable. You mentioned texts and web. Well, Chrome is updated all the time and has security updates all the time (https://chromereleases.googleblog.com/).

https://sites.google.com/a/chromium.org/dev/Home/chromium-security points to https://chromereleases.googleblog.com/search/label/Stable%20updates for a list of historical security updates. Search thru that for security. Pretty much all of them will start with CVE (Common Vulnerabilities and Exposures).

I have no idea how far behind Chrome is on that ancient phone. https://chromereleases.googleblog.com/search/label/Chrome%20for%20Android does say "Android releases contain the same security fixes as their corresponding desktop release, unless otherwise noted."

You can visit web site intentionally or accidentally that have dangerous content, sometimes in ads or other embedded content or because someone malicious gained admin access to the site and injected malicious content.

Googling for android sms vulnerability might be insightful. Here's are two:
https://www.androidpolice.com/2019/09/13/simjacker-exploit-can-compromise-vulnerable-phones-with-just-an-sms-message/
https://www.laptopmag.com/news/dangerous-android-malware-is-spreading-beware-of-text-message-scam
https://www.europol.europa.eu/media-press/newsroom/news/takedown-of-sms-based-flubot-spyware-infecting-android-phones (same as above)

If you look at https://source.android.com/docs/security/bulletin/2020-12-01, some of the updates are in Mediatek, Broadcom or Qualcomm components. For MediaTek and Qualcomm, that's often the phone's processor or just the cellular radio. Broadcom would likely be the wi-fi and/or Bluetooth chip/chipset. You'll see updates for those 3 vendors pretty often if you skim those monthly Android security bulletins.

BTW, there was that became a well known Broadcom wi-fi security bug:
https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2020/02/flaw-in-billions-of-wi-fi-devices-left-communications-open-to-eavesdroppng/

Sorry for going OT. Maybe I/we will have to continue our outdated Android phone security discussion in another thread.

I don't disagree that EA has reliability problems. https://insideevs.com/news/389891/exclusive-interview-electrify-america-problems-solutions/ suggests you use their app, not their credit card readers under "About those credit card readers". https://electrek.co/2019/11/26/interview-electrify-america-chargers/ also talks about CC reader probs. Search for dropped.

I see on Plugshare all the time complaints about EA and EVgo credit card readers not working. Duh! Don't use them! I sometimes reply on Plugshare w/a check-in saying so.

On EA, I avoid NFC because on some of their stations, the NFC reader is on the credit card reader! When I use them for paid charging (rarely), I always start from their app. Almost all of the rest of my EA juice has been for free (when it says complimentary session). At that time, it's just plug and charge. There's no app, CC or NFC to mess with. It starts by itself.
 
GRA said:
That done I drove home, loaded my gear and set off at 94% SoC, 279 mi. showing on the GoM, Eco mode, Driver-only HVAC, 80 deg. ambient, fan-only, Saturday 1:27 p.m.

I normally do this drive on a Friday evening/night, after the commuters and tourists are off the roads, so traffic was heavier and driving was slower than normal for me. As I was also trying to see what kind of max. range I could get, I kept the A/C off even though the ambient temp was mostly in the mid to upper '90s and briefly hit 100 on Hwy 120 east of Oakdale, before starting the climb and the temp dropping.

Comment:

Turning off AC is usually pointless for range, in every EV I've driven.

At 70 MPH a LEAF is pulling 21kW for traction. The AC after getting the cabin cool is pulling less than1kW. So how much faster could you drive and get the same range with the AC off? Roughly 1 MPH.

While other EVs are slightly different, the same sorts of physics apply. If you need range, slow down.
 
cwerdna said:
On EA, I avoid NFC because on some of their stations, the NFC reader is on the credit card reader! When I use them for paid charging (rarely), I always start from their app. Almost all of the rest of my EA juice has been for free (when it says complimentary session). At that time, it's just plug and charge. There's no app, CC or NFC to mess with. It starts by itself.

NFC on some stations has been useful. Others has been a big bother. I've also switched to starting with an app.

Plug and Charge everywhere would be nice. Should be common when time for my next car... in 2025 or later.
 
WetEV said:
GRA said:
That done I drove home, loaded my gear and set off at 94% SoC, 279 mi. showing on the GoM, Eco mode, Driver-only HVAC, 80 deg. ambient, fan-only, Saturday 1:27 p.m.

I normally do this drive on a Friday evening/night, after the commuters and tourists are off the roads, so traffic was heavier and driving was slower than normal for me. As I was also trying to see what kind of max. range I could get, I kept the A/C off even though the ambient temp was mostly in the mid to upper '90s and briefly hit 100 on Hwy 120 east of Oakdale, before starting the climb and the temp dropping.

Comment:

Turning off AC is usually pointless for range, in every EV I've driven.

At 70 MPH a LEAF is pulling 21kW for traction. The AC after getting the cabin cool is pulling less than1kW. So how much faster could you drive and get the same range with the AC off? Roughly 1 MPH.

While other EVs are slightly different, the same sorts of physics apply. If you need range, slow down.

It was an experiment just to see how much difference it would make, using driver-only mode. I don't try to "cool the cabin down", just want cool air blowing on me, and doing without a/c is something I don't limit to BEVs. I do it sometimes just to monitor how well I'm dealing with heat while staying alert, how much it affects my water intake, etc. Much as I appreciate having a/c, I grew up riding on long trips in cars without it, and the first two cars I owned didn't have it, instead having what my dad called "poor man's A/C - open the windows and vents and go like hell!" Since I generally want to get to my trip destinations in minimum time that often still works reasonably well crossing the central valley, but not traveling along it or across desert states by day.
 
WetEV said:
cwerdna said:
On EA, I avoid NFC because on some of their stations, the NFC reader is on the credit card reader! When I use them for paid charging (rarely), I always start from their app. Almost all of the rest of my EA juice has been for free (when it says complimentary session). At that time, it's just plug and charge. There's no app, CC or NFC to mess with. It starts by itself.

NFC on some stations has been useful. Others has been a big bother. I've also switched to starting with an app.

Plug and Charge everywhere would be nice. Should be common when time for my next car... in 2025 or later.


OT. Plug and Charge is far more than nice, it'll be essential for mainstream users to adopt and stay with PEVs voluntarily. Charging has to be as easy and dependable as buying gas, and as pretty much anyone who's ventured beyond their home or free public chargers has learned, even when public chargers are working, activating them remains far too much of a crapshoot. And with the low density of stations in rural areas, such uncertainty forces you to stop and charge far more often than you'd otherwise need to, just to ensure your trip doesn't come to a crashing halt if you can't charge at your intended site.

Personally, I consider sites with just a single charger as last-ditch emergency sites, and never plan on them being available & working.

The new federal climate bill requiring at least 4 150kW (minimum) chargers per station @ 50 mile spacing will help, but as those will be installed mainly along interstates and major U.S. highways, those of us venturing further afield will still be significantly limited as to routes & destinations, at least until (affordable) BEV ranges double. I wonder how many more years it'll be until you can buy a new BEV with Lucid Air range for <$40k?
 
GRA said:
WetEV said:
GRA said:
That done I drove home, loaded my gear and set off at 94% SoC, 279 mi. showing on the GoM, Eco mode, Driver-only HVAC, 80 deg. ambient, fan-only, Saturday 1:27 p.m.

I normally do this drive on a Friday evening/night, after the commuters and tourists are off the roads, so traffic was heavier and driving was slower than normal for me. As I was also trying to see what kind of max. range I could get, I kept the A/C off even though the ambient temp was mostly in the mid to upper '90s and briefly hit 100 on Hwy 120 east of Oakdale, before starting the climb and the temp dropping.

Comment:

Turning off AC is usually pointless for range, in every EV I've driven.

At 70 MPH a LEAF is pulling 21kW for traction. The AC after getting the cabin cool is pulling less than1kW. So how much faster could you drive and get the same range with the AC off? Roughly 1 MPH.

While other EVs are slightly different, the same sorts of physics apply. If you need range, slow down.

It was an experiment just to see how much difference it would make, using driver-only mode.

Unless you controlled the speed to better than 1 MPH, it wasn't a good experiment. Opening the windows and driving faster is a way to use more energy and shorten the range, not stretch the range.

If you need more range, slow down.
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
Sadly process at going the other way. $50k seems to be where most EV prices are selling/settling.. except for the Bolt.

Subsidies and high gasoline prices are boosting demand for EVs well beyond what the supply chain can deliver today.

Should catch up in a few years. Wait, if you can.
 
:cry:
WetEV said:
GRA said:
WetEV said:
Comment:

Turning off AC is usually pointless for range, in every EV I've driven.

At 70 MPH a LEAF is pulling 21kW for traction. The AC after getting the cabin cool is pulling less than1kW. So how much faster could you drive and get the same range with the AC off? Roughly 1 MPH.

While other EVs are slightly different, the same sorts of physics apply. If you need range, slow down.

It was an experiment just to see how much difference it would make, using driver-only mode.

Unless you controlled the speed to better than 1 MPH, it wasn't a good experiment. Opening the windows and driving faster is a way to use more energy and shorten the range, not stretch the range.

If you need more range, slow down.

Who says I had the windows open? They weren't, as I'm well aware of the extra drag. But I'm also not interested in driving slower than I normally would, as an experiment or otherwise - I know that I can extend the range that way, but except in an emergency that defeats the purpose of driving a car vs. some other form of transportation.
 
GRA good point. Actually in my last trip to Kansas, my S+ was only pulling 350-400watts once cabin cooled (90F+ outside), so a cost of about 1.5 miles range per hour driving. Worth it on a hot humid day.

We made the 230 miles on the charge with about 5-6kW left per LS, so it was worth the comfort, but could have has another 1 - 1.5 kWh cushion if we wanted to arrive sweaty.
 
WetEV said:
GRA said:
WetEV said:
If you need more range, slow down.

Who says I had the windows open?


GRA said:
instead having what my dad called "poor man's A/C - open the windows and vents and go like hell!"


Ah, I see where the confusion came in. I used poor man's A/C on cars that lacked A/C, which doesn't apply to either the Ioniq 5, EV6 or either of the two cars I've owned over the past 34 years. Cars in the pre-A/C era also had footwell and wing vents: they weren't aerodynamic (neither were the cars), but you could put a lot of air though the car with them without using the fan.

I don't think you can buy a new car in the US now that doesn't come with it standard, and that may well have been the case for a decade or two. Does anyone know? On my '88 Subie A/C was a dealer-installed option, but on my 2003 Forester it was standard on all trims, and can't recall the last time I read a car's spec sheet that didn't include it as standard.

It's long been established that using 'poor man's A/C' is less efficient than using actual A/C with the windows up at higher speeds when that's an option. So, when I write 'fan-only' that too is windows-up. Rolling the windows down rather than using the A/C only makes sense at slower than highway speeds, when rolling resistance rather than drag predominates.

Personally, I find I rarely use A/C on the highway unless the OAT is above 86 deg. and I know it'll stay like that for an hour or more. I often won't use it into the '90s, and occasionally even into the triple digits if I know it'll only be that hot for a short period of time (as in this case). Note I'm talking dry heat, as we rarely experience heat plus high humidity levels that would give us a high heat index.
 
Uncommon for people to agree to not use A/C in hot weather, so I try to encourage them to use sunshields, park towards the South, and to crack open windows for ventilation. These steps make a huge difference in the amount of retained heat that A/C has to work to expel.
 
SageBrush said:
Uncommon for people to agree to not use A/C in hot weather, so I try to encourage them to use sunshields, park towards the South, and to crack open windows for ventilation. These steps make a huge difference in the amount of retained heat that A/C has to work to expel.


Replacing/expelling heat built up while parked is a different matter, and in that situation cracking the rear windows makes sense, but that's short-term at the start of a drive, not continuous for hours. And of course I use a reflective sunshield and park facing south or southwest when there's no shade.
 
GRA said:
Replacing/expelling heat built up while parked is a different matter, and in that situation cracking the rear windows makes sense, but that's short-term at the start of a drive, not continuous for hours. And of course I use a reflective sunshield and park facing south when there's no shade.

It is the same matter -- the total energy used for cooling for a trip. And it is almost always true, except for very long trips, that the lion's share of A/C work is related to removing the heat accumulated while parked when the windows are closed and the sun is not blocked, not the heat that enters the cabin while driving. On average, cars in the USA are driven about an hour a day, and sit for about 11 hours a day. Using A/C to dispel the heat from 11 hours a day while parked is the much larger problem.

Another way to estimate the A/C work during driving that is not related to dispelling retained heat is this:
Estimate glass as 1 meter*meter facing the sun, and average sun inclination at 45 degrees
Radiation is 1000 watts per meter*meter facing normal to the sun
So average heat entering the cabin through the glass is about 700 watts.
Presuming a COP of 3, about 200 -- 250 Wh of electrical energy used per hour for steady state A/C

Call it one mile of EV range spent per hour for A/C
 
Back
Top