Well because of certain blog sites taking my experiment video and using it out of context (not to mention without permission), I've taken it down completely. If you still want to see it, shoot me a PM and I'll send you a private link to it.
Even an EVSE that is meant to be hard wired can have a plug put on it easily enough with parts from your local home depot. Just make sure you use a heavy enough gauge wire, and suitably insulated for outdoor use if you intend to take it with you. Also use appropriate strain relief and make sure everything is nice and tight. Strictly speaking such an EVSE is meant to be permanently attached to the wall, but...ERG4ALL said:I have a 50A 240V outlet in my garage for my stick welder. Does anybody know of anyone making an EVSE that will plug directly into that outlet so I can take the EVSE with me? :?: :idea:
MrZorg said:Even an EVSE that is meant to be hard wired can have a plug put on it easily enough with parts from your local home depot. Just make sure you use a heavy enough gauge wire, and suitably insulated for outdoor use if you intend to take it with you. Also use appropriate strain relief and make sure everything is nice and tight. Strictly speaking such an EVSE is meant to be permanently attached to the wall, but...ERG4ALL said:I have a 50A 240V outlet in my garage for my stick welder. Does anybody know of anyone making an EVSE that will plug directly into that outlet so I can take the EVSE with me? :?: :idea:
Expensive for sure, plus they're kinda big/heavy.Ingineer said:Also: if you do make a portable EVSE out of an existing non-portable unit, make sure it's protected from the weather. Keep in mind the GFCI protection will not cover you on any of the 240V plugs you add!!!
The other thing I should warn about doing this; most of these wall-mount EVSE's are not really all that rugged, do if one gets dropped or something, it could fail and that's an expensive proposition!
This solution would be perfect for my trips to visit out-of-town friends (I have AV cash&carry installed for day-to-day use), and I am willing to pay a full fair price for your conversion. I applaud your efforts while SPX seemingly sits on their hands month after month.Ingineer said:The EVSE upgrade will include the installation of a standard L6-20P on the EVSE and a short adapter pigtail with and L6-20R and the standard 120V (5-15P) plug>>>>>>>>>garygid said:What socket-adapter cables will be available?
We will be offering a standard set of optional adapter configurations, but depending on the request, we can probably configure them how you prefer.
For safety, The EVSE performs a ground validation test upon powerup, so if the adapter or the target outlet miswired, the EVSE will indicate this with either a flashing Ready LED or the Fault LED.
-Phil
MrZorg said:Expensive for sure, plus they're kinda big/heavy.
While my original comment was vague, I know the Nissan/AV EVSE is designed for outdoor use, since that's where they're mounted at the Nissan dealerships... And I was informed (by AV) that their EVSE has a built-in GFCI - that would still work even if plugged in, no?
Please note that mine was converted to a plug, simply for convenience and upgradability's sake. I, personally, have no intention of actually taking it anywhere (too much trouble)...
tbleakne said:This solution would be perfect for my trips to visit out-of-town friends (I have AV cash&carry installed for day-to-day use), and I am willing to pay a full fair price for your conversion. I applaud your efforts while SPX seemingly sits on their hands month after month.
I will need a 10-30P adapter, which is common for dryer outlets (30 amps). My understanding is that the convention for this plug is to wire the center crooked pin to Neutral (white), not true ground. Is this right? Will the EVSE pass ground validation with this connection ?
I will also need a substantial length of "extension cord" for this hookup, perhaps 30'. If my understanding is correct, this cable would need L6-20R on one end and L6-20P on the other.
All excellent points. Thanks for the extra enlightenment on the GFCI issue, that makes sense.Ingineer said:It is designed for outdoor use when wall mounted, so if it's in another position, or the wiring is above the EVSE, rather then below as it would be on the wall, water could follow the cable into the wiring entry hole and "BZZZZT!"! (Bye-Bye EVSE!)
It's also not designed to receive shock loads, and a drop could be the end of it.
The GFCI only protects the wiring PAST where it is in the circuit, so it would not cover any 240v cords going into the unit. This is why on the portable EVSE's the spec requires a very short cord.
Ingineer said:Doing EVSE upgrades for a small stipend isn't a very good business model, but since I've already figured out how, I figure I might as well help everyone out until there is a better alternative.
-Phil
LEAFer said:What would you suggest to use for "splicing" to increase the length of the existing e-hose ?
(For example: http://www.platt.com/product.aspx?zpid=286637 ??) Is there something less bulky, since 4 wires need to be spliced ?
For the e-hose ?! Pictures ? Details ?Ingineer said:I have devised a simple way to modify a standard twist-lock so that it becomes unique.
jamcl3 said:Basically the only EVSE that you can plug in must operate at 120 volts, if it is 240 volts it has to be hard wired, according to the NEC.
Randy said:jamcl3 said:Basically the only EVSE that you can plug in must operate at 120 volts, if it is 240 volts it has to be hard wired, according to the NEC.
Hmm....All the ECOtality Blinks being installed (like the one in my garage) have a 12 inch pigtail that plugs into a 50 amp 240v receptacle...
I disagree with this, as the NEC is open to interpretation.jamcl3 said:Basically the only EVSE that you can plug in must operate at 120 volts, if it is 240 volts it has to be hard wired, according to the NEC.
And so that's my question... Why not use the European pin-and-sleeve type connectors for our EVSE input connections. (With an appropriate NEMA adapter set for not-at-home use.) I never cared that much for Hubbell's twist-lock stuff anyway; overpriced and too easy to bend the pins.jamcl3 said:But be careful, this is a litigious society and our 240 volt outlets are not as safe as the recessed European outlets.
Could you quote where your reading that so we can understand it? I'm thinking of IEC 60309 connectors. Thanks.garygid said:However, it appears that the NEC does not allow use of the much safer European-style plugs and sockets.
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