Do-it-yourselfer naivete...?

[mitch672]

There are NO NEMA 40A receptacles, therefore no need for a 40A setting for the Tesla.
That's what happened to the "32A" setting, doesn't need to exist.

 

[wwhitney]

For a while, my Mom lived in a house with a GFCI outlet in one bathroom which was ungrounded. While the GFCI would still detect current imbalance if there was dangerous leakage, the Test button did nothing, since it had no ground to create a "test" leakage path.

While early model GFCIs may have required a ground for the Test button, modern ones certainly do not. They create a shunt around the current transformer for one circuit conductor to create an imbalance through the transformer.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[smkettner]

There are NO NEMA 40A receptacles, therefore no need for a 40A setting for the Tesla.
That's what happened to the "32A" setting, doesn't need to exist.

That is perfect :lol: Nissan and AV are requiring a circuit that otherwise does not exist :roll:

 

[mitch672]

There are NO NEMA 40A receptacles, therefore no need for a 40A setting for the Tesla.
That's what happened to the "32A" setting, doesn't need to exist.

That is perfect :lol: Nissan and AV are requiring a circuit that otherwise does not exist :roll:

It doesn't exist with a standard NEMA outlet, but you can install a 40A breaker on a 50A outlet, and it can also be hardwired. I was explaining why Tesla doesn't have a 40A adapter cord...

 

[smkettner]

I am just continuing my rant about requiring the installation of twice the needed power to properly charge the leaf.
So then AV invents a 40a circuit, why not just go to 50 as that is already fairly standard.
Otherwise go with 20 as that is all that is needed

 

[EVDRIVER]

I am just continuing my rant about requiring the installation of twice the needed power to properly charge the leaf.
So then AV invents a 40a circuit, why not just go to 50 as that is already fairly standard.
Otherwise go with 20 as that is all that is needed

No one is requiring anything, you can do your own or hire an electrician, I thought you were going with a Leviton EVSE anyway?

 

[planet4ever]

It's very likely all of those Tesla adapters above have a resistor on 2 pins of the connector, telling the EVSE on the cable what the maximum current draw is for that type of connector. That's the only way it could work.

Yeah, that would explain it. If so... then Nissan really could put the "soap" ("EVSE on the cable") inside the LEAF, and make sure the other end has the proper resistor for its plug (or plugs, with a handful of adaptors).

Not if they want to comply with the National Electric Code:

625-22. Personnel Protection System. The electric vehicle supply equipment shall have a listed system of protection against electric shock of personnel. The personnel protection system shall be composed of listed personnel protection devices and constructional features. Where cord- and plug- connected electric vehicle supply equipment is used, the interrupting device of a listed personnel protection system shall be provided and shall be an integral part of the attachment plug or shall be located in the power supply cable not more than 12 in. (305 mm) from the attachment plug.

The attachment plug referred to here is the one connecting to a permanently installed wall outlet.

 

[Norway]

I guess what that thing does is have a slightly different plugin for each plug, so if you use a 15A plug, the unit knows to signal 15A. But the coding is in the plug to the "soap", and if you had a 15A plug, but with a 10A fuse behind it, the fuse would blow.

Basically correct. The Tesla "soap" does not sense available current. The maximum (assumed breaker) rating is "coded" by the pigtail (each of which they charge $100 for). There are only 4 variations so coded: 15, 20, 30, 50. (That's what the two-digit code after the "-" means in the NEMA name for the plug: NEMA 14-xx or NEMA 6-xx, etc. And look at the 3rd column in the Tesla graphic of receptacles.)

So, this means you, the user, choose the proper pigtail to plug into the provided receptacle. The receptacle on the wall is assumed to be properly installed and wired for its "xx" rating. Then you connect the pigtail with the "soap", and connect the "soap" to the car. The "soap" ( ok ... enough; it's really an EVSE :lol: ) then sends the proper pilot signal to the car at 80% of the "xx" rating (so that would be 12, 16, 24 or 40 amps). (Not sure what happened to a 40A rating/32A pilot for this EVSE.)

(The "coding" in the pigtail may be done with resistors, as previously pointed out, but I'm not sure if that's how they actually do it.)

I see we're changed the conversations to soaps and pigtails! :mrgreen: