DIODE FIXED!

[LeftieBiker]

I'm going to merge these posts with the existing topic.

 

[jester]

Ok, that's great.
I missed it somehow

Thanks

 

[jester]

Thanks for merging

Diode fix did not solve my problem.

I'm thinking of sourcing a used charger.
Any recommendations for non-dealer mechanics who can do th swap most appreciated.
I'm in the Lower Mainland, BC area.

 

[alozzy]

https://www.precisionautoservice.com/

 

[hopperdropper]

What is the actual test procedure for the diode?

I am definitely not an EE or electrician but I have a multimeter and can poke around a bit

Scott

 

[alozzy]

What is the actual test procedure for the diode?

I am definitely not an EE or electrician but I have a multimeter and can poke around a bit

Scott

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R4dGg8nIUs

 

[hopperdropper]

The links to Amazon are going to the homepage rather than product details page for the diode. Can someone post a link to the actual item?

 

[abaalto]

I tried the diode fix on my 2011. But there is no way to pull the harness out of the port far enough to install the diode because there is a wire that is part of the harness bundle that attaches to a spot below the charger that cannot be accessed without putting the car up on ramps and removing the air dam below the engine compartment. Does anyone have a suggestion? I tried installing the diode in the short space available after cutting the pilot wire, but had to bend back the cathode and anode to make it fit, which I don't think you're supposed to do. Any advice greatly welcomed!

 

[91040]

I removed the J1772 receiver and harness from the car. The harness has an orange connector about two feet in. There is also a small (black?) wire to another connector near the front that must be detached.

 

[Pealeaf13]

Just found this post, had high hopes for our new to us 2012 SL. 8 bars, decent car, 73k miles.
Won't charge from the new Siemens Versi charge unit i just mounted.
40A ckt run, i tested voltage/ground, etc and all good.
Unit trips out instantly when plugging car in (After car beeps 3 times- beep, pause, beep-beep).
Car seems to charge on a local old BTC public charger, but fails at a couple others.
Did the diode install, but no difference.
I also pulled out the harness plug completely, well worth the easy work up on a bench. the large plug was TOUGH to separate, but i used a squirt of WD and a pair of channel locks. The little one i used a trim tool to pop it out of the steel plate, and the whole thing slid right out. Was very easy- Wish the fix worked for me..

 

[coulomb]

Yeah, it's not going to fix a lot of charrger problems, but since it's relatively easy, you may as well check for it. It's only going to fix the charging problems IF it was caused by that diode, AND the fix only works in the case that the diode failed short circuit. If it happens to fail open circuit or high resistance or high leakage, then you have to replace the diode itself, which is a tiny surface mount component on one of the internal PCBs. I imagine that the diode fails short circuit in only a very small percentage of cases.

If it turns out that you have a good diode, I would remove the added one, since it will be changing the voltages seen by the on-board charrger by some 0.6V, which could make things worse for when you finally fix the problem. Only if the diode happened to be shorted will it improve by adding another diode in series with the pilot signal.

My guess is that like the Mitsubishi iMiEVs, which also use a Nichicon OBC, Leafs probably suffer from the same common AC charging problems: some small snubber capacitors that explode, and problems with the pre-charge circuit (relay and pre-charge resistors).

 

[91040]

The first post of this thread links to another thread with information to diagnose the problem.

Do the readings from your car match either conditions coulomb mentions?

Because it is an easy mistake to make- double check that you installed the inline diode in the correct orientation.

Hope you are able to solve this inexpensively.

 

[Pealeaf13]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I should have tested first, it was so easy i just jumped in.
Installed the diode with band facing rear of the car.
I actually tested at a public charger last night and it worked... Now i'm even more confused. This charger is the first in our area, at least 6-8yrs old, so i'm wondering if it's just dumb enough not to do the check, and giving me false hope.. going to try another charger when we can. Siemens rep today told me even when new they had some faulting issues with their Versi charge. Who knows, maybe i fixed it but have a bad home unit!

 

[coulomb]

What does the connector in photo #9 energize ?

I assume you mean the connector in the bottom right of the below; it also appears two pictures earlier:

I've seen a connector like that on an iMiEV that connected to I think the J1772 proximity resistor (2.7 kOhm to chassis). Automotive manufacturers seem to like big chunky parts that bolt to the chassis via automotive connectors. Even when a 1/8 W resistor would do. But perhaps it's also a compatibility requirement that this resistor is near the J1772 connector, not some tiny SMD part that goes away if the On Board Charger is disconnected.

But I may be completely wrong about that.

 

[Timmer]

OK. So I see a lot of info about the diode fix. My problem is the Proximity Detection Pin. It is either pushed in or broken off. It sits on the right side of the battery charge port unit in the level 1/2. I have the 2017 leaf. Nissan broke it off when doing routine maintenance and refuse to take responsibility. They gave me a quote for $2200 to fix.

 

[erco]

I hope to never have to do this, but it's awesome to have such a simple fix explained so clearly! I'm saving this as a PDF in case that slide deck ever disappears from the web...

Here's the URL, in case anyone wants it:

https://1drv.ms/b/s!AjONM_UrXWS8-xqfBWuDqcPAFCuK

Ironically, your Onedrive PDF has disappeared by 2023 but the original slideshow remains.

 

[coulomb]

My problem is the Proximity Detection Pin. It is either pushed in or broken off...
maintenance and refuse to take responsibility. They gave me a quote for $2200 to fix.

I'm probably way too late to be useful, but the pilot and proximity pins are deliberately considerably shorter than the other pins, especially the earth pin between them. They usually also have black insulation on the ends to make them finger safe, so they can look like they are broken or sunken when they are completely normal. Here is an image (from Ebay, so sadly it won't last) of replacement pins.

 

[winfried]

My Leaf 2012 does not charge with OBC and Chademo works, so I want to figure out if the diode fix or the fix of the diode in the onboard charger could help. I read most of the post:

What I did until now:

- measured Type1-Plug against Earth Pin like in video::

- Proximity Sensor: 4.3 V

- Pilot:
Resistance: 4 MOhm (+ on Earth), no resistance (- on earth)
Diode Test: no connection (+ on earth), 1.77V (- on earth)

- Diode fix:
Inserted diode (HER103) in TYPE-1 Adapter of TYPE2/TYPE1 cable in series for testing: still stops charging after some seconds

Question: Could it be the diode on the circuit board of the OBC like in the video, or something else ?

Since, stated before, resistance of the pilot-ground should be low in one direction, but is not.

DTC 2840

PS: My workshop checked: Onboard Lad/SV-mod, Partnr. 296A0-3NA7A, DTC 2840, electr. fail func., time old,
They told me to exchange the charger (EUR 2500.-)

 

[MrJodie]

My Leaf 2012 does not charge with OBC and Chademo works, so I want to figure out if the diode fix or the fix of the diode in the onboard charger could help. I read most of the post:

What I did until now:

- measured Type1-Plug against Earth Pin like in video::

- Proximity Sensor: 4.3 V

- Pilot:
Resistance: 4 MOhm (+ on Earth), no resistance (- on earth)
Diode Test: no connection (+ on earth), 1.77V (- on earth)

- Diode fix:
Inserted diode (HER103) in TYPE-1 Adapter of TYPE2/TYPE1 cable in series for testing: still stops charging after some seconds

Question: Could it be the diode on the circuit board of the OBC like in the video, or something else ?

Since, stated before, resistance of the pilot-ground should be low in one direction, but is not.

DTC 2840

PS: My workshop checked: Onboard Lad/SV-mod, Partnr. 296A0-3NA7A, DTC 2840, electr. fail func., time old,
They told me to exchange the charger (EUR 2500.-)

Winfried, same for me.

I lost charger yesterday.

4.3V and 4.5MOhm

 

[winfried]

...
- Pilot:
Resistance: 4 MOhm (+ on Earth), no resistance (- on earth)
Diode Test: no connection (+ on earth), 1.77V (- on earth)
...

Winfried, same for me.

I lost charger yesterday.

4.3V and 4.5MOhm

I am sorry for you, what I did until so far:

- removed seats and covers to access the charger-
- I turned off high Voltage (-12V + Plug), wait for 10 Minutes
- Opened the OBC and inspected: optical everything seems to be ok (no broken condensers...)
- screw out the control board PA4063RP120 to inspect the diode in there:

The famous D547 seems to be doubled on my board and I measured, 0.64V and 0L, so it seems to be fine.
Also, other diodes near seams to behave normal (0,54-0,7V) in one direction in the other sometimes1.7V, but these could be external parts.

Anybody know where the resistors responsible for measurement of the low resistance on the board are seated ?

So I will assemble everything again, so I can Chademo charge.

PS.: Seems I have to order a used one somewhere, if I find one.