Burned L1 Plug

[ggodman]

So about a month ago I came out of work and pulled on my plug to put it away and it had resistance, so I pulled a bit harder and it came loose but when I looked at it, the plug was burned. I took it to Valencia Nissan and they contacted Nissan, so now a month later they told me they are not going to replace it, sorry. What do you guys think looking at the pictures, it seemed like a short to me but maybe one of you can tell me what Nissan is thinking about how this is not a warranty issue? The plug is a GFCI I had installed at work with a 20 Amp breaker 2 years or so ago. Been plugging in everyday since I got the car in June 2011. Also the big question is can I still use it, it works but is it safe to use, was this a one off event or am I likely to start a fire? Opinions on how to proceed are appreciated.

 

[Stanton]

Difficult to diagnose "over the air", but assuming:
1) this was the Panasonic L1 EVSE delivered with your car
2) it still works

my guess is:
1) someone/thing splashed some sort of liquid on what looks to be an outdoor/accessible plug (you were at work?)
2) not surprised it wasn't covered by warranty (not Nissan's fault)
3) I would try and replace the plug, but definitely have someone remove/inspect the wall jack (and probably replace)

 

[Randy]

Did the person who installed the receptacle use the screw terminals or the push-in spring connectors? I've seen those spring connectors develop high resistance , and being outside might help that process.

Since the EVSE still works, I would replace the GFCI receptacle with the highest quality outdoor unit I could find, use the screw terminals for connecting to it, and then cut the plug off of the EVSE and replace that with the highest quality after market plug I could find. Make sure all the connections are rock solid and use the EVSE again.

Then perhaps get an IR thermometer and check the connection periodically...You're pulling 12 amps for hours on end, so bad connections tend to get worse over time...

 

[ttime4four]

Difficult to diagnose "over the air", but assuming:
1) this was the Panasonic L1 EVSE delivered with your car
2) it still works

my guess is:
1) someone/thing splashed some sort of liquid on what looks to be an outdoor/accessible plug (you were at work?)
2) not surprised it wasn't covered by warranty (not Nissan's fault)
3) I would try and replace the plug, but definitely have someone remove/inspect the wall jack (and probably replace)

In Stanton's response guess #1, and in the photos your wall jack is mounted sideways -- I would guess that the weight of the EVSE caused a "pull" on the plug creating a spot where liquid could have pooled right at that burned/melted spot.

Agree with the other posters to replace the plug and receptacle.

 

[DaveEV]

These types of issues are rarely the fault of the EVSE plug and usually the fault of the receptacle.

You can easily remove the EVSE plug for inspection and replacement - if it is a plug issue the issue will be that the plug terminal set screws managed to loosen up. It looks like the three screws on the EVSE plug that hold it may already be loose? Fully tightened they are normally fully recessed. My EVSE was upgraded - I don't recall what kind of plug came on it stock, but I remember it being fairly heavy duty.

If you inspect the receptacle, as Randy suggests I would bet that it was either installed using the push-terminals or the lug came loose.

When doing the replacements, please take some pics so we can learn from your experience!

I would use a plug like this one to replace the EVSE plug:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pass-Seymour-15-Amp-125-Volt-Industrial-Grade-Straight-Plug-PS5266XCCV4/202664475" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And I would use a receptacle like this one to replace the outlet:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Smartlock-Pro-15-Amp-Weather-Resistant-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Duplex-Outlet-White-R62-WT599-0KW/202993875" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

While browsing you may look for either "Industrial Grade" or "Heavy Duty" or "Hospital Grade" receptacles which are generally built a bit tougher than your typical receptacle.

 

[voganni]

That looks like a 15 amp GFI. They are not adequate for the Leaf's continued relatively high amp draw. 20amp GFI's will have a horizontal slot as well as vertical on the left side. They also have higher-tension springs in the receptacle. It also needs to be wired with 12 ga wire. 14ga will overheat. And, definitely use the screw terminals. Also use a 20 amp heavy-duty plug. Even a small amount of resistance will eventually overheat the plug.

I wanted to post a picture of one, but the forum won't let me. Did a search for instructions, no joy.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/qv/202993877" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; There's a link. DO use a 20 amp GFI.

 

[ggodman]

Thanks everyone, will remove and inspect receptacle and report back. Wire is 12 Gauge. No moisture or liquid of any kind around the area that day, area is behind a fenced area, off limits to non employees.

 

[KillaWhat]

One of he weirdest and prevalent code violations, almost an accepted one, is the 15 amp outlet stuck on a circuit with a 20 amp breaker.

I'm also amazed, although I guess that I shouldn't be any more, is that people pay a fortune for their electronics, but accept that they have 37 cent crap outlets all over their house.

Go to Home depot.
Look at the wide price range of standard duplex outlets that even they carry.
BIG ass difference in quality.

Maybe, if you are going to really PUSH an outlet by... say.. plugging a CAR into it, you splurge and get a commercial rated true 20 amp'er.

Spend $6 or so on it.

Oh, a picture of a true 20 amp GFCI outlet, Weather resistant, tamper resistant, in a code compliant outdoor housing.

 

[surfingslovak]

I would also watch out for mechanical stress. The 2011 EVSE "brick" is quite heavy, and can create significant stress of the plug and the receptacle, if its weight is not properly supported.

 

[Nubo]

Also the big question is can I still use it, it works but is it safe to use, was this a one off event or am I likely to start a fire? Opinions on how to proceed are appreciated.

I would not use it. The materials in the plug are chosen for their insulating and mechanical properties. Which are suspect once the materials have been carbonized. Also, connections between the wires and terminals are meant to be "gas-free". Either the conections on the receptacle or the plug (likely the receptacle) were already not tight and thus suffered oxidation. This increased resistance and resulted in heat. Now that both sides have been overheated, all of the connections should be treated as suspect -- new receptacle and new plug end are called for, imho. I'd repeat the calls for quality components properly installed (clean, bright, tight connections, no nicks on the wires, and do NOT use stab-in connections). The wiring on both ends needs to be looked at; insulation may have been burned near the ends, turning it brittle and oxidizing the wires.

I would also watch out for mechanical stress. The 2011 EVSE "brick" is quite heavy, and can create significant stress of the plug and the receptacle, if its weight is not properly supported.

+1 Find a way to support the brick and take any stress off the plug. Make sure it's secure otherwise if the brick slips and falls you'll be putting even worse stress on the plug.

 

[ggodman]

Thanks again for all the reply's. I suspect the mechanical stress may have contributed after two years of the brick hanging from the sideways plug. I will replace the plug and receptacle with appropriate parts as suggested before using again. I will also check the wires on both the plug and breaker side to ensure no problems. I'll let everyone know if they are screwed in or plugged in when I check the receptacle.

 

[DaveEV]

I suspect the mechanical stress may have contributed after two years of the brick hanging from the sideways plug.

Ouch, the bring hung on the plug with it's full weight? That would definitely lead to this type of failure. Use a cord/hook to support the weight of the EVSE brick if at all possible...

 

[ggodman]

Yep just plugged in every day, I suspect this will be a problem with the spec with such a short cord to the brick for the general public in the future.

 

[MikeD]

ggodman: My understanding is the starting with the 2013 Leafs, the included portable EVSE (the one with the narrower control box) monitors the NEMA 5-15 input plug for an excessively high temperature and will stop the charging session for such a situation. Had this been the case for your EVSE this would have alerted you that the receptacle needed attention and possibly replacement (although it may have left you with an insufficiently charged car) and should have prevented the arcing damage that appears to have occurred.

BTW Is your "Delivery Date: 11 Jun 2013" a typo, i.e. it should be 2011?

 

[wwhitney]

One of he weirdest and prevalent code violations, almost an accepted one, is the 15 amp outlet stuck on a circuit with a 20 amp breaker.

This is not a code violation. All 15 amp 120V receptacles are designed for 20 amp pass through and may be installed on a 20 amp circuit. Within any given grade of receptacle, I have been told the only difference between the 15 amp version and the 20 amp version is the presence of the extra slot on the 20 amp faceplate.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[MikeD]

wwhitney: Of course besides the T-slot difference in the faceplate, I'm sure you also meant to include the extra female connector part behind it which is necessary to mate with a 20a male prong (perpendicular to the 15a prong) ...

 

[lkkms2]

Also, if the sun beats down on the receptacle, especially on a hot afternoon while you are charging, it wouldn't hurt to figure out a way to keep it shaded.

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

There are so many ways L1 can have problems consumers won't recognize it's little wonder Nissan recommends against it. GM made the volt default to 800 watts over these concerns. Even if you have an eight dollar receptacle wired to the screw terminals you could be daisy chained on other crappy outlets that are stabbed.You really need to know the whole picture all the way back to the panel. Then there are problems with the outlet wearing, particularly if it's being connected and unplugged every day. The nissan brick has a good quality plug but it isn't a 90 angle plug and there's no provided way to support the brick, what Einstein thought that up.

All around bad situation IMO. Much better to have a good L2 installed.

 

[adric22]

I think another issue is at the root of this, and I'm surprised nobody else mentioned it. If the plug is outdoors, it is likely that over time the connections inside the plug will have corroded a bit. This would be the actual connections inside the receptacle that make contact with the legs on your EVSE plug. When this happens, this increases resistance and that will build up heat. The heat transfers to the EVSE plug and melts that too.

While there are many other things that will melt an outlet, such as using the spring terminals on the back instead of the screw terminals, that situation usually results in the melting of the back of the outlet, not the front.

 

[Valdemar]

Unlike most posts in this thread I'm goin to blame the plug. Just recently I noticed mine is heating up extensively on the hot prong side, and by that I mean it was almost painful to touch the metal after 20 minutes of charging. I took the plug apart, tightened up the terminal screw, not it barely warms up.

And your plug is toasted as well as wire insulation inside so a short is possible. Get a new one from Home Depot, easy fix.