New Traction Motor Being Installed

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CopperRoad, call Nissan and ask them to pay for your gas. They did for me when I had my PDM replaced which took 3 weeks.

I gave them a call. Thank you, locman. They'll also cover lease payment if it's gone for the 2-3 weeks that was quoted me. They're also calling the dealer to see if they can expedite delivery of the motor. Wishful thinking I'm guessing since they asked me, "is it out of stock"? I guess they don't realize their service departments aren't flush with traction motors. :)
 
I suppose it is worth mentioning how a dealership shop works in most cases. Most shops pay the technicians by commission on the parts they replace. They get paid a set amount for labor on each part they replace. The vast majority of dealership DO NOT PAY the technicians for time troubleshooting a problem, especially when dealing with a car under warranty. So this creates an atmosphere in the shop were technicians have no incentive to accurately troubleshoot issues, and thus they will often replace a handful of suspect parts rather than just figure out exactly where the problem is and replace that one part.

if you bring in a car that is under warranty because it has a rattle or some noise, they really don't want to spend several hours tracking it down. That is labor time that is lost, and likely have no parts to replace. So they have incentive to find a part bad.
 
adric22 said:
I suppose it is worth mentioning how a dealership shop works in most cases. quote]

Not sure how it works in Texas but for the >25 years I have been a Service Manager at new car dealerships in California I can tell you Techs do NOT get paid for parts and they DO get paid to diagnos a problem, even one under warranty. While you may get a lazy tech who prefers to "throw parts at it" rather than diagnos it, if warranty policy/procedures are not followed the dealership will in the end be charged back for part of the repair or have the claim denied altogether.
 
GIBBER said:
Not sure how it works in Texas but for the >25 years I have been a Service Manager at new car dealerships in California I can tell you Techs do NOT get paid for parts and they DO get paid to diagnos a problem, even one under warranty. While you may get a lazy tech who prefers to "throw parts at it" rather than diagnos it, if warranty policy/procedures are not followed the dealership will in the end be charged back for part of the repair or have the claim denied altogether.
Perhaps it is different from state to state, but I have several friends who either are or were technicians at dealerships and what I relayed is standard procedure around here.
 
I Just picked the car up. Finally. No clicking sound on the drive home. On top of replacing the traction motor, they had to replace the traction motor inverter after it failed. So, hopefully everything is fine. Motor is on its way to Nissan so they can figure out what the cause was.
 
Since the MNL hive brain has determined that there was nothing wrong with your traction motor, you should have demanded that they re-install it on your rear axle to make the first ever all wheel drive LEAF, rather than sending it back to Nissan.
 
I had the same noise for the first 6K miles and now it's gone. Haven't heard it in months.

I guess it broke in, or maybe it's just a hot weather noise?



GIBBER said:
I have this exact same noise/same conditions. Started about 200 miles ago, will be taking it into the dealer for diagnosis next Monday. I'll let you all know what comes of it.
 
Since the MNL hive brain has determined that there was nothing wrong with your traction motor, you should have demanded that they re-install it on your rear axle to make the first ever all wheel drive LEAF, rather than sending it back to Nissan.

I'm really missing the clicking. I will install a clicking device as to slowly wean myself off of the now absent metallic sound. :)
 
CopperRoad said:
I took the car in Monday (1.20.14) for its first service, and the PDM update. I asked them to look into the sharp metallic click that appeared to emanate from the front left of the vehicle during acceleration from stop (sometimes during coming to a stop). I thought for a while it might have been the Service Bulletin ntb12-055c... issue with the front axle... so I never thought too much of it. That wasn't it. The often talked about "Leaf expert" came out and confirmed this morning that it's an issue is with the traction motor. They've ordered a motor from Japan. Stuck with a Rogue for 2-3 weeks. Have to buy gas. Boo!

Has anyone else dealt with this? If so, any issues after the new motor was installed?

2013 SL
6,200 mi

should have asked for some gas cards. the dealership I worked at used them to calm customers down all the time. that and car wash coupons, they do work...
 
So, I get the car back. No problem with the clicking. All is good on that front.

I drive it for a few days when I notice, out of the blue, the steering wheel is crooked. It's rotated to the right, at about the 2 o'clock position, when I'm to going straight. Let go of the wheel, and the car veers left. OK. Weird. I take it back in for the 2nd alignment, since they did one when the motor was swapped out. I get the car back that day. Things were fine for a few days. A few nights ago, it's all of a sudden back to being crooked. I take it back. Go for a drive with a tech. He explains the ins & outs of alignments. I tell him that's great, I don't want a crooked steering wheel. I half-heartedly ask, did you bend the frame, an axle? It just seems very strange that they can't center the steering wheel. The tech prattles on about alignments. He says the machine measures the alignment. OK, but something is wrong. It wasn't like this before the motor was swapped out. This should NOT be happening. He goes back for the 3rd alignment, the machine shows it's aligned within the specs, but he adjust to compensate for the crooked steering wheel in an attempt to straighten it. (That should be great for tire wear) He then tells me that the steering wheel is connected to the motor, something he didn't know, so he can't simply straighten it. It will apparently take a lot of work. And he doesn’t even offer that up. OK. But the steering wheel is why I keep bringing the car back! Does this not seem like the cause of the problem? So, I drive off with the car. Yes. I shouldn't have. I was a bit stunned at the tech's response, and frankly exhausted from the ordeal. I was fully expecting the steering wheel to settle to the right again. And, it did as I drove to work the next morning. I took the car back right away and told them they need to fix the wheel. This was not how the car was when I brought in, or leased it 10-months ago. My love for my Leaf is quickly waning. Or, at least for the process. I now have another loaner. No word on when, or what they're going to do. But I don't want the car back until it's fixed.

In other news, my friends Dad also took his '13 Leaf into the dealer this week with the "clicking sound". He was informed later that evening it was motor.
 
CopperRoad said:
So, I get the car back. No problem with the clicking. All is good on that front.

I drive it for a few days when I notice, out of the blue, the steering wheel is crooked. It's rotated to the right, at about the 2 o'clock position, when I'm to going straight. Let go of the wheel, and the car veers left. OK. Weird. I take it back in for the 2nd alignment, since they did one when the motor was swapped out. I get the car back that day. Things were fine for a few days. A few nights ago, it's all of a sudden back to being crooked. I take it back. Go for a drive with a tech. He explains the ins & outs of alignments. I tell him that's great, I don't want a crooked steering wheel. I half-heartedly ask, did you bend the frame, an axle? It just seems very strange that they can't center the steering wheel. The tech prattles on about alignments. He says the machine measures the alignment. OK, but something is wrong. It wasn't like this before the motor was swapped out. This should NOT be happening. He goes back for the 3rd alignment, the machine shows it's aligned within the specs, but he adjust to compensate for the crooked steering wheel in an attempt to straighten it. (That should be great for tire wear) He then tells me that the steering wheel is connected to the motor, something he didn't know, so he can't simply straighten it. It will apparently take a lot of work. And he doesn’t even offer that up. OK. But the steering wheel is why I keep bringing the car back! Does this not seems like the cause of the problem? So, I drive off with the car. Yes. I shouldn't have. I was a bit stunned at the tech's response, and frankly exhausted from the ordeal. I was fully expecting the steering wheel to settle to the right again. And, It did as I drove to work the next morning. I took the car back right away and told them they need to fix the wheel. This was not how the car was when I brought in, or leased it 10-months ago. My love for my Leaf is quickly waning. Or, at least for the process. I now have another loaner. No word on when, or what they're going to do. But I don't want the car back until it's fixed.

In other news, my friends Dad also took his '13 Leaf into the dealer this week with the "clicking sound". He was informed later that evening it was motor.

Wow!

It's rare that my BS-O-Meter gets pegged this hard!

Something is physically wrong with your car dude.

In the old days (really old days) when you did an alignment, you did it, then unbolted the steering wheel, and put it back on straight.
(I S#&t you not)

Now I am told, that proper procedure is bring the car into the alignment system and make sure the steering wheel is straight, then individually adjust the wheel alignment to spec.
Not Brain Surgery.

They messed something up.
It shouldn't "change" as you drive it.

Yes, I guess the motor IS connected to the steering, the way any front wheel drive is, but no more so.

Try Writing Brian Brockman at Nissan Corporate ([email protected])
He has genuine common sense, and has straightened out several of these WTF situations by cutting through the BS.
Good guy.
Let him know what's going on.

Good Luck

P.s. Also let him know that they are changing out traction motors.
Unless the 13's use different Japan made motors than the '11 and '12 Japan made motors, no way.
How many miles do we collectively have on these motors without a hint of motor trouble?
No.....not buying it.
 
Yeah, the situation just doesn't feel right for something that should be so simple.

Thank you for Brian's email. I've been dealing with someone in Nissan's electrification dept. in regards to the motor swap-out. Just placed a call to him regarding this issue. If he isn't helpful I'll definitely reach out to Brian. Thanks again!
 
I picked the car up on Saturday. Took it for a drive with the tech. It seemed to be fine. At this point everything seems to be crooked/tilted, so I said let me drive it a few days. The tech wasn't being forthright in regards to the issue. He wasn't hiding anything, just wasn't offering up an explanation. He was talking about how some people like the wheel this way, or that way... yeah, straight? :) When we stopped after the second drive of our testing, and I pressed a bit, is when he said that he called Nissan tech and told them what he had done, replaced the motor, inverter, and of course disconnect the battery. That was when he told me that there was something he had to reset to be able to get a true alignment/straighten the steering wheel. He didn't expound anymore. I finally feel vindicated after made to feel it was me. So, hopefully this is the last time I'll have to deal with this.

I did contact Nissan in regards to the traction motor issue, and my knowledge that I know of another 2013 Leaf owner who is having his replaced after having clicking sounds from the start & stop positions. I think this could be worth looking into.
 
I'm totally on board with your assessment.

The latest... Yesterday, 4 days after picking up the car, I was leaving for work and the key fob wouldn't work. The push button handle access wouldn't work. Nothing was left on, or open on/in the car. I had to have someone come out and jump the 12v. The car started. I drove it to Nissan. They said the 12v was fine. Just drive it a bit. Well, this morning the same thing happened. Jumped the 12v. Left it at Nissan. They're going to check if there is any significant draw from the 12v. Replace it. And go from there. This has been a long journey. It's kind of funny now :)
 
CopperRoad said:
I Just picked the car up. Finally. No clicking sound on the drive home. On top of replacing the traction motor, they had to replace the traction motor inverter after it failed. So, hopefully everything is fine. Motor is on its way to Nissan so they can figure out what the cause was.

So was you clicking sound similar to mine? Just recorded the noise this morning, video: http://youtu.be/eX3G3DDT7Xw

It happens as I creep along in the parking garage with my foot off the gas pedal. almost sound like there is a lose bolt slapping around in the drivetrain. No noise while driving normally, that I can hear.

if it is motor that would mean that I will have my whole drivetrain (minus transmission) replaced in the first 4K miles :shock: . I had PDM/inverter replaced recently.
 
CopperRoad said:
I'm totally on board with your assessment.

The latest... Yesterday, 4 days after picking up the car, I was leaving for work and the key fob wouldn't work. The push button handle access wouldn't work. Nothing was left on, or open on/in the car. I had to have someone come out and jump the 12v. The car started. I drove it to Nissan. They said the 12v was fine. Just drive it a bit. Well, this morning the same thing happened. Jumped the 12v. Left it at Nissan. They're going to check if there is any significant draw from the 12v. Replace it. And go from there. This has been a long journey. It's kind of funny now :)

Are you going back to the same dealership each time? If so, I have to ask...WHY???
 
mwalsh said:
CopperRoad said:
I'm totally on board with your assessment.

The latest... Yesterday, 4 days after picking up the car, I was leaving for work and the key fob wouldn't work. The push button handle access wouldn't work. Nothing was left on, or open on/in the car. I had to have someone come out and jump the 12v. The car started. I drove it to Nissan. They said the 12v was fine. Just drive it a bit. Well, this morning the same thing happened. Jumped the 12v. Left it at Nissan. They're going to check if there is any significant draw from the 12v. Replace it. And go from there. This has been a long journey. It's kind of funny now :)

Are you going back to the same dealership each time? If so, I have to ask...WHY???

This is a blast from the past. It's been 7 months since this incident.

At the time there was an open claim with Nissan in Tennessee, who was working directly with the dealer, while I was corresponding with T.N. weekly. So, picking up and going to another dealer would have been yet another headache, no doubt adding more time to this already long drama. And there would have been zero guarantee another Leaf expert would have fared any better seeing that very few, if any, motors had been replaced at the time for anyone to be an expert.

I wish I could say the click sound has gone away. But it hasn't. It returned less than a month or so after the motor & inverter replacement. As it never/did not seem to effect performance I have not taken it back to any dealer for the clicking. I'm biding my time for the lease to be up in 2016. The honeymoon phase has been over for quite a while now.
 
Hate that you've had to do deal with all this. Did your clicking sound appear like NasGoreList's video?

I ask because I also notice a clicking sound, usually when starting to drive and sometimes when stopping. It's usually just a single click. Seems odd.
 
I had the "ticks" also, for weeks, until the mechanic at my leaf dealer fixed it, when I was there for a problem with my brakes.

It was -NOT- the continue clicking/ticking as heard in the video from NasGoreList.

It was a single "tick" when reversing the torque, so in general when pressing the pedal in reverse the first time, but sometimes also when driving away from a stop and the last meters of braking, before a stop.

What I understood from his explanation was that is was the SPLINE (SHAFT) (see image, not from a Leaf) and he lubed it again, because it was a bit "dry" and put it back again in a -different position-.
CIMG3730.jpg


The ticking is gone indeed, so his diagnose was correct.

And yes, when it comes to this kind of problems, the mechanics are doing their "true", "natural" job and in general, they do it just fine.
The whole "Leaf-expert" thing is a disgrace for electric cars. I met once one who even mixed up volts and amps!
Well, whats in a name...... -MECHANICS-
 
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