Leaf Spy and Leaf Spy Pro

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werdnawerdna said:
Question about which mi/kWh figure to use in LEAF Spy for calculated distance to reserve:

The miles per kw on the instrument panel is totally inconsistent with that displayed in LEAF Spy, and also with calculations I do based on GIDs displayed relative to odometer miles (taking 75 wh/GID). The instrument panel is showing about 20% higher efficiency. There appears to be much closer correspondence between my calculated efficiency and what LEAF Spy is showing for efficiency.

All that having been said, I get great predictions from LEAF Spy using the higher number from the LEAF instrument panel (which has saved me many times relative to the truly crap GOM). I suspect LEAF Spy would be overly conservative if I put in the LEAF Spy-derived figure--which should I use and why?

Final note: it's been cold here in Philadelphia (single digits and teens F), and I have the Spy set to calculate based on outside and battery temps. I also park on the street so the battery typically hits teens F as well.

The best approach is to use LeafSpy to monitor real-time GIDs or Ahr as you get a realistic idea over time
of your true/actual remaining range. GIDs/Ahr ignores occasional light loads (cruising) and coasting which
skew (GOM) the range calculation.
 
Thanks lorenfb. So which efficiency number should I use for LEAF Spy in calculating remaining range, the one in Spy or the one from the dash? The former typically says ~3.6 mi/kWh, the latter around 4 mi/kWh.
 
werdnawerdna said:
Thanks lorenfb. So which efficiency number should I use for LEAF Spy in calculating remaining range, the one in Spy or the one from the dash? The former typically says ~3.6 mi/kWh, the latter around 4 mi/kWh.

I would rely on the LeafSpy data and always monitor your GIDs/Ahr as you drive and mentally calculate
your mileage per GIDs/Ahr, which will help provide a good estimate of your remaining range.
 
Hi.
I really love this Leaf Spy Pro Software. I have been using it since I bought the car in October 2013 and I have almost 80/90% of the vehicle usage registered.
However, even today I dont understand completely the meaning of all the data. is there any manual or something like that?
I suppose that the main data coming from the car through the OBDII are those in the log file: Gids, SOC, AHr, pack volts, etc...
First of all, I dont understand why %GIDS and %SOC are sometimes so different. Today I got turtle mode (in a test) and at the end %GIDS was 1,4% whereas %SOC was 9,8%. Which measures is the actual battery capacity?
After that, I wonder how "remain" is calculated. I guess it is GIDS x 80 (or any other constant fixed in the preferences).
But ¿How can the consumption be calculated (in Wh in the right position in the screen)? It doesn't seem to be the comsumed GIDS because when I add remain and consumption the result is usually less than the original remain. If wh were calculated using gids, the addition will be always the same quantity, and this quantity should be the original remain. But it is not.
Thank you for your answeres.
 
avp said:
Hi.
I really love this Leaf Spy Pro Software. I have been using it since I bought the car in October 2013 and I have almost 80/90% of the vehicle usage registered.
However, even today I dont understand completely the meaning of all the data. is there any manual or something like that?
I suppose that the main data coming from the car through the OBDII are those in the log file: Gids, SOC, AHr, pack volts, etc...
First of all, I dont understand why %GIDS and %SOC are sometimes so different. Today I got turtle mode (in a test) and at the end %GIDS was 1,4% whereas %SOC was 9,8%. Which measures is the actual battery capacity?
After that, I wonder how "remain" is calculated. I guess it is GIDS x 80 (or any other constant fixed in the preferences).
But ¿How can the consumption be calculated (in Wh in the right position in the screen)? It doesn't seem to be the comsumed GIDS because when I add remain and consumption the result is usually less than the original remain. If wh were calculated using gids, the addition will be always the same quantity, and this quantity should be the original remain. But it is not.
Thank you for your answeres.
Gids would be the best indicator of remaining energy available from the battery. Remaining is calculated as you said Gids x Wh/Gid set in settings.

SOC is not a direct indicator of available energy. It is the remaining energy available from the battery. So you need to know how much energy the battery is currently able to hold. As the battery ages this number gets lower and lower. So a new battery at SOC of 50% holds a lot more energy than a 5 year old battery at SOC of 50%. Similarly a fully charged NEW battery at 95% would hold a lot more kWh than a 5 year old battery charged to 95%. SOC is not very useful.

The Wh counter uses a couple of high precision numbers from the Leaf that give an idea of the energy available from the battery. It is not based on Gids which is too coarse a number to use (70-80 Wh units). The counter keeps track of this energy change. But the change can also be due to battery temperature changes as well as actual consumption by the drive train.

So the Remain number and consumption number come from different sources in the Leaf and will only approximately correlate. Measuring energy flow is not as easy as the liquid flow in a gas powered car. The "tank" size itself changes overtime. And the storage is a chemical reaction so you don't get everything you put in back out.
 
Hi,
I am a new owner of Leaf and new to this forum also. I would very much appreciate your help.

My question is this - my Leaf is after an accident (with airbags deployed). It's already fixed, but during the collision the emergency shut off turned on and my Leaf is disabled from driving or charging. I saw that with Leafspy pro I can reset the DTCs - would I be able to clear this error?

p.s. The airbag control module is being fixed separately from the car and these people are just too far away to tow my car itself to clear the DTCs also.

Thanks for your answers
 
lipcius said:
Hi,
I am a new owner of Leaf and new to this forum also. I would very much appreciate your help.

My question is this - my Leaf is after an accident (with airbags deployed). It's already fixed, but during the collision the emergency shut off turned on and my Leaf is disabled from driving or charging. I saw that with Leafspy pro I can reset the DTCs - would I be able to clear this error?

p.s. The airbag control module is being fixed separately from the car and these people are just too far away to tow my car itself to clear the DTCs also.

Thanks for your answers

There's a potential safety issue with your vehicle in the state it's in, and as such it should be taken
to a Leaf certified Nissan dealer.
 
Thanks for the help. The SpyLeaf worked like a charm - errors deleted, car is charging and driving again.
 
Turbo3 said:
avp said:
Hi.
I really love this Leaf Spy Pro Software. I have been using it since I bought the car in October 2013 and I have almost 80/90% of the vehicle usage registered.
However, even today I dont understand completely the meaning of all the data. is there any manual or something like that?
I suppose that the main data coming from the car through the OBDII are those in the log file: Gids, SOC, AHr, pack volts, etc...
First of all, I dont understand why %GIDS and %SOC are sometimes so different. Today I got turtle mode (in a test) and at the end %GIDS was 1,4% whereas %SOC was 9,8%. Which measures is the actual battery capacity?
After that, I wonder how "remain" is calculated. I guess it is GIDS x 80 (or any other constant fixed in the preferences).
But ¿How can the consumption be calculated (in Wh in the right position in the screen)? It doesn't seem to be the comsumed GIDS because when I add remain and consumption the result is usually less than the original remain. If wh were calculated using gids, the addition will be always the same quantity, and this quantity should be the original remain. But it is not.
Thank you for your answeres.
Gids would be the best indicator of remaining energy available from the battery. Remaining is calculated as you said Gids x Wh/Gid set in settings.

SOC is not a direct indicator of available energy. It is the remaining energy available from the battery. So you need to know how much energy the battery is currently able to hold. As the battery ages this number gets lower and lower. So a new battery at SOC of 50% holds a lot more energy than a 5 year old battery at SOC of 50%. Similarly a fully charged NEW battery at 95% would hold a lot more kWh than a 5 year old battery charged to 95%. SOC is not very useful.

The Wh counter uses a couple of high precision numbers from the Leaf that give an idea of the energy available from the battery. It is not based on Gids which is too coarse a number to use (70-80 Wh units). The counter keeps track of this energy change. But the change can also be due to battery temperature changes as well as actual consumption by the drive train.

So the Remain number and consumption number come from different sources in the Leaf and will only approximately correlate. Measuring energy flow is not as easy as the liquid flow in a gas powered car. The "tank" size itself changes overtime. And the storage is a chemical reaction so you don't get everything you put in back out.

Perhaps this is the reason why Wh sometimes decreases with the car stopped in "ON" mode.
On the other hand, if original GIDS x wh (settings) is always more than final wh, the wh settings should be corrected shouldn't they?
 
Turbo3 said:
You are free to change the Wh/Gid number in Settings if you find the Remaining kWh number to be too large. Default is 77.5 Wh per Gid.

In my 2012 Leaf with ~58AHr,
If i charge to 100% and set the dte to 180Wh/km and reset the energy economy meter in the car and drive it at 0,18. The DTE to LBW shows 83km in leafspy. And i get 81-82km before the car beeps LBW. I use the setting 75.0 Wh/Gid

In my 2014 Leaf with ~63AHr
If leafspy shows 95km to LBW i only get ~ 85km before the car beeps LBW. (180wh/km and car driven at that consumption)

Does the model year setting change anything?
I would like the settings Wh/Gid to go from 70 instead of todays 75Wh/Gid, then maybe 70Wh/Gid setting should have predicted 85km to LBW in my 2014 Leaf ?
 
LeafSwe said:
Turbo3 said:
You are free to change the Wh/Gid number in Settings if you find the Remaining kWh number to be too large. Default is 77.5 Wh per Gid.

In my 2012 Leaf with ~58AHr,
If i charge to 100% and set the dte to 180Wh/km and reset the energy economy meter in the car and drive it at 0,18. The DTE to LBW shows 83km in leafspy. And i get 81-82km before the car beeps LBW. I use the setting 75.0 Wh/Gid

In my 2014 Leaf with ~63AHr
If leafspy shows 95km to LBW i only get ~ 85km before the car beeps LBW. (180wh/km and car driven at that consumption)

Does the model year setting change anything?
I would like the settings Wh/Gid to go from 70 instead of todays 75Wh/Gid, then maybe 70Wh/Gid setting should have predicted 85km to LBW in my 2014 Leaf ?
You caught me just at the right time to change the Wh/Gid to start at 70. I was minutes way for making the next release.

At the moment model year is only used to determine the number of battery temperature sensors to display (3 or 4) and to skip some commands Nissan decided to drop support for on 2013 and newer Leafs.

Model year is set from the VIN if it conforms to US standard. In the UK you are on your own. They have a very strange VIN format.
 
I have been using Leaf Spy Pro since its beta. Recently it stopped working. It will no longer connect to the ELM. The ELM status jumps back and forth between Retry and Waiting.

I am currently running v0.39.35 en (Android). This version was working on the 2nd. That is the same version then. I am not sure why it stopped working.

I assumed that the bluetooth ELM died, so I borrowed one from a friend and had the same results. Has anyone else seen this problem?

Tomorrow, I'll try a different car to remove another variable.
 
patrick0101 said:
...The ELM status jumps back and forth between Retry and Waiting.
...
Did you unplug and replug in the device while attempting to connect to it?

Connectivity seems to be more of a problem with the Android device somehow losing the pairing with the device.

I have gone four months without experiencing the problem.

And then yesterday had to go through the unplug and replug operation to get Android to request if pairing to the device was OK.

I think the recurring aggravating problem has more to do with Android updates or other Bluetooth uses that cause a hang of the device.

This is why it is always best to use extension cord and have the device located where you can reach it and unplug it and then plug it back in to reestablish the pairing.
 
patrick0101 said:
... The ELM status jumps back and forth between Retry and Waiting....
I rebooted my phone and this problem went away. I didn't think about trying this last night since the bluetooth was connecting to my watch and car with no problems. Thanks TimLee for the suggestions.
 
patrick0101 said:
I rebooted my phone and this problem went away. I didn't think about trying this last night since the bluetooth was connecting to my watch and car with no problems.
That sometimes works too.

I find that hangs up less often if you have LEAF Spy Pro turning off Bluetooth.
If leaving LEAF in Ready for heat or cooling, turn LEAF Spy Pro off with shutdown disabling Bluetooth.

But even doing that the adapter pairing fails to reestablish occasionally.
 
Turbo3 said:
The next release will include Watts used to the right of the graph when displaying the Energy Usage graph.

Here is what it looks like using simulated data.
tmbRCB.png


There is also a new option for reading the Tire pressures.

For those with new Leafs that support Tire Registration from the Dash and have found that LeafSpy does not report the Tire pressures this should fix that issue.

This method takes a little longer so if the original method works I would not select this one.

8V1pMF.png


When released this version will also fix:

* If rear heater is turned on don't go into night mode
* Accept VINs with spaces and dashes (seen in Japan, test vehicles???)
* Default to English even if device language set to Norwegian, French or German
* Fix minor bug in Reading DTCs on very slow devices. Fix one typo in a DTC name.
* When starting up app restore last Elevation/Speed and Charge graphs that were previously saved.
* Charge graph now displays both the Power reported by Leaf as well as calculated power (V*A). If Level 3 (QC) is being limited (i.e. from Solar) Leaf was reporting 3.5kW even when Solar was only providing 1kW to the DC charge port.

I won't have a QC graph until next week but here is what it looks like charging at L2. The Blue line is what Leaf reports as charge power and the green is V*A going into battery. Amps is reported in 0.5 amp steps. (Don't have android screenshot of this so here it is from iOS LeafSpy)
i0cZ6L.png

I have bougth Leaf Spy Pro for my 2015 Nissan Leaf, and get no TPMS readings as described in anoother thread on this board.

When will this new version be released? Is it possible to get a beta version from somewhere?

Keep up the excellent work!

Best regards from Norway - Paul
 
pkvaloy said:
I have bougth Leaf Spy Pro for my 2015 Nissan Leaf, and get no TPMS readings as described in anoother thread on this board.

When will this new version be released? Is it possible to get a beta version from somewhere?

Keep up the excellent work!

Best regards from Norway - Paul
I have been busy with the iOS version of LeafSpy Pro which was finally release by Apple yesterday to the App Store.

The process of syncing all the changes/improvements from the iOS version into the Android version is under way. Should have a test version ready in the next few days.

Send the email address you used to purchase LeafSpy Pro to the email address listed on the About screen and I will add you to the testers group.
 
I've been having limited use of leaf spy trip features after the update made sometime between september and now. The charging timer is nice... however, the wh counter appears to be gone or hard to use. When I hit reset, the reset button disappears and the count doesn't appear to be changing.. Personally I find the set trip length counter redundant to human brain capabilities. If we didn't have to set the trip count down, that'd be another story... (Tesla autopilot).

I like the old one that reset to 0 every time you hit reset and then counted up until you reset it again...

Also, when charging, I see a very large negative Wh number.. (-50723Wh, for example). Is that like total kwh charged per day?
 
Someone just posted this picture in another forum and I thought it would be fun to share here:
InDashLeafSpy.jpg

It is just a photoshop image, but I thought it was a pretty cool idea. Can't wait till phone screen mirroring is a standard car feature.
 
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