Generator requirement to charge the Leaf @240 in 7 hours

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The dedicated 20A outlet recommendation is to insure other loads switched on during charging, on a non-dedicated circuit wouldn't overload and cause the breaker to trip.

Certainly a 15A dedicated outlet would be fine as well, however, they also recommend it be a GFI as well, and most GFIs are for 20A circuits
 
You could always get one of those out-door in-line GFCI connectors. Mind you, if I had my LEAF charging on a GFCI, I'd want it to send me an IM telling me it just tripped so I could go look at it instead of thinking it was charging when the circuit tripped 30 minutes in and now I can't get home.
 
The "regular" and the "20-amp dedicated" are (usually) a contradiction.

Most home sockets are not dedicated, and only some newer ones are on 20-amp circuits. The rarer 20-amp "T-prong" socket also accepts the "15-amp" plugs.

Later I will try to find the "reduced" capability (and thus needs) of NISSAN's 120v "included" (L1) EVSE.
 
Sometimes a GFI-type socket (or breaker) is too sensitive for EV charging, and will "trip" when it really is just detecting "noise".

Generally, the EVSEs (L1 and L2) have a "GFI" function built into them, but usually they are designed to be a little less sensitive, and thus better suited for the EV charging task.

So, sometimes an additional GFI (in the wall socket or breaker) will not be the best idea.
 
garygid said:
Sometimes a GFI-type socket (or breaker) is too sensitive for EV charging, and will "trip" when it really is just detecting "noise".
Can you explain what it is about EV charging that would cause a hot/neutral imbalance in normal operation? Excessive leakage current to ground would be a defect in the charger.

Cheers, Wayne
 
I have been told:
Typically a "GFI" does not measure current in the ground line at all. It usually passes the two "power" lines through one current sensor and the flow outward in one line should equal the flow inward in the other line. The sum should be zero, unless some current is "getting away".

Stray capacitance to ground could cause an imbalance, and I guess that battery packs could be "full of it".

So, a normal GFI might be set for a few milli-amps, but charger builders/users have reported that they have too many false "faults".

Somewhere I read (maybe some NEC section on GFI) that there is a special provision that increases the GFI "current balance" limits for EV charging.

Or, maybe I just was dreaming?
 
J1772 EVSE has GFCI function built in as well - some commercial outdoor units specifically forbid using another GFCI as the 'smart' EVSE can reset it's own but can't reset the external interrupter.
 
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