FIRE using LVL 1 - 120 V Trickle Charger

[MikeD]

drees: You commented "No need for GFCI on the receptacle used only by EVSE, EVSE includes GFCI.". I believe this is a common misconception that GFCI protection is not needed at the receptacle that a portable EVSE plugs into. You are correct that some (usually limited to ~20ma) GFCI protection is provided by the EVSE, but it is only "downstream" of the control box of an EVSE. This does nothing to protect a user who happens to touch an electrically hot prong of the EVSE input plug (or much less likely, an exposed wire of a damaged cable between the plug and the EVSE control box) while inserting/removing it into/from a receptacle (either twist lock or straight blade). Only separate GFCI protection (of the typically much more sensitive 5ma variety) via a receptacle GFCI or circuit breaker GFCI can help prevent shock IMHO (together with eliminating grounded objects near the receptacle which if also touched completes the circuit to your body).

On one other issue you raised: you wrote "EVSE won't function without it [a connection to ground at the receptacle.].". True enough. However, my original point (on which I should have elaborated further) was that the photos seemed to show only two wire cables being used at the receptacle in question, which to me meant a short pigtail must have been run from the neutral (which should normally connect to ground) to the receptacle's ground connection. This approach is NOT considered acceptable (it was allowed for ranges and dryers up until the 1996 NEC) especially for a string of 15/20a receptacles for this very good reason: should the neutral become disconnected between the breaker panel and the receptacle in question, then when a device connected on the same circuit downstream from this break in the neutral is attempted to be turned on, this makes this downstream part of this neutral electrically hot including ALL the "equipment ground" connected parts (like perhaps an outside metal frame!) plugged into receptacles using the same defective grounding method whether or not those devices are turned on! Exactly what you DON'T want to ever happen! This is a subtle point, but a very important one to understand, I think you will agree.

 

[DaveEV]

drees: You commented "No need for GFCI on the receptacle used only by EVSE, EVSE includes GFCI.". I believe this is a common misconception that GFCI protection is not needed at the receptacle that a portable EVSE plugs into.

If you're plugging the EVSE in somewhere where you might be standing in a puddle of water - yes, the circuit should be Class A GFCI rated. NEC says that all garage and outdoor circuits, for example, are required to be be Class A GFCI rated.

However, my original point (on which I should have elaborated further) was that the photos seemed to show only two wire cables being used at the receptacle in question

You interpret the picture wrong. I don't see any evidence that suggests the neutral was being used as a ground, which is a clear code violation and very much not recommended.

 

[Elephanthead]

Just put in an order for 50 USA made Hubbell outlet and switches. Going get my electrician to throw out every Chinese made outlet and switch in my house thanks to this thread. Got to love builders and lowest bidder subs.

 

[MikeD]

drees: The photos seem to me to show only two wire cables in the vicinity of the where the outlet box should be, so I was deducing that as you said the only way the EVSE would function is having a ground -- and the only source I could imagine was via the neutral wire. I readily admit the photo is not clear enough for me to make out a pigtail. Perhaps you can suggest another more likely possibility.

I hope ste4en will come back with more detailed info about the available evidence. I would think that he would like to have revealed any unsafe conditions that should be remedied.

 

[jlatl]

Just put in an order for 50 USA made Hubbell outlet and switches. Going get my electrician to throw out every Chinese made outlet and switch in my house thanks to this thread. Got to love builders and lowest bidder subs.

At the same time do a check for wire gauge vs. breaker size. I have seen times when corners were cut and they installed 20A breakers on 14ga. wire.

Another point to check is to buy one of the cheap little circuit testers that you plug in to verify the wiring is correct on all the outlets. (hot where it should be, ground works, etc. About $8 at Home Depot ( http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-120-VAC-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-1-clam-5-clams-master-GFI-3501/202867890?MERCH=REC-_-SearchPLPHorizontal1-3-_-NA-_-202867890-_-N" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; )

In my house I found a couple plugs where the ground was not connected correctly and I had to fix the wiring.

 

[Mtown0031]

There is no problem using a 110 volt outlet to charge your car. In order to be safe, it should be a dedicated outlet that is the only one on the breaker. It should be on a 20 amp breaker and 12-2 size wiring used. It's kinda like running a space heater or any other large amperage 110 volt appliance. Hope this helps. Glad to hear that there was just minor damage.

 

[EatsShootsandLeafs]

I just did 15k miles on a Leaf with L1 and no issues. However, when I first bought it I was charging with an extension cable (i know i know) and after a couple of days of this where the extension plugged into the outlet was very slightly brown. It had obviously been creating far too much heat with the cable.

 

[jlatl]

I just did 15k miles on a Leaf with L1 and no issues. However, when I first bought it I was charging with an extension cable (i know i know) and after a couple of days of this where the extension plugged into the outlet was very slightly brown. It had obviously been creating far too much heat with the cable.

I would suggest to everyone, and especially L1 users, they come back after 15 min and then 1-2 hours and feel around the outlet and connections for warmth. Maybe even invest $20-$30 in an Infrared Thermometer (http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; )

 

[Graycenphil]

Many garages do not have a smoke alarm - mine didn't. I think Drees said it earlier, but it's worth repeating. If yours doesn't, it would be a good idea to add one.

 

[uwskier20]

Many garages do not have a smoke alarm - mine didn't. I think Drees said it earlier, but it's worth repeating. If yours doesn't, it would be a good idea to add one.

+1

I've been planning to install a heat detector in my garage (something I still need to get done but have put off), rather than a smoke detector, since we have an ICE parked in there too. A heat detector will alarm for a rate of temperature rise of more than 12-15 degrees/min or an absolute temperature above about 135F.

It's long stunned me that building codes don't require fire detection in attached garages, as it seems a likely place for fires to start, given what we park, use, and store in them, sometimes quite haphazardly.

 

[DaveEV]

Many garages do not have a smoke alarm - mine didn't. I think Drees said it earlier, but it's worth repeating. If yours doesn't, it would be a good idea to add one.

Consider getting a pair of communicating ones, too, so that it's easier to hear the alarm if you're not in the garage.

 

[Graycenphil]

How about both? Basic smoke alarms are so cheap; even the communicating ones are not too expensive.

The fire that started this thread probably would have triggered a smoke alarm long before a heat alarm. If the outlet wasn't behind sheetrock, it would have been even earlier.

I wouldn't expect any issue with an ICE and the smoke alarm.

 

[RegGuheert]

I've been planning to install a heat detector in my garage (something I still need to get done but have put off), rather than a smoke detector, since we have an ICE parked in there too. A heat detector will alarm for a rate of temperature rise of more than 12-15 degrees/min or an absolute temperature above about 135F.

I guess I don't understand the motivation to get a heat detector instead of a smoke detector. Is there some issue with the exhaust from an ICE causing false-positive alarms?

I also think that a heat detector might have frequent false-positive alarms. Perhaps not from the ICE, but I think the temperature in our insulated garage can easily jump 15 degrees simply by opening the main door when the OAT is much higher than the temperature inside the garage.

 

[uwskier20]

I guess I don't understand the motivation to get a heat detector instead of a smoke detector. Is there some issue with the exhaust from an ICE causing false-positive alarms?

I also think that a heat detector might have frequent false-positive alarms. Perhaps not from the ICE, but I think the temperature in our insulated garage can easily jump 15 degrees simply by opening the main door when the OAT is much higher than the temperature inside the garage.

A quick search of the web will turn up numerous stories of nuisance alarms from car exhaust in garages. NFPA goes so far as to not recommend smoke alarms in garages, attics, or other unfinished spaces. On the other hand, heat detectors are recommended. I can't imagine a 12-15 degree per minute rate of rise just by opening the door in my location. Some municipal codes go so far as to specifically require heat detectors in attached garages, not smoke detectors.

 

[Graycenphil]

I put a smoke alarm in my garage when I got the Leaf, and have had no false alarms from the ICE that shares the garage. I would do both, and if you get false alarms from one, disable it.

A photoelectric type detector would probably be the best choice for the garage. A CO alarm might be set off by car exhaust, though it is also a nice thing to have in the garage. Especially if your other car is a plug in hybrid.

 

[ste4en]

I thought I would post a follow up on how things turned out. All State insurance was great. Contractor has completed all repairs and we are about back to normal. Total cost around $10k. Cost to me was the deductible and time off work and general disruption. Now have a dedicated 240V circuit to the garage supplying a Clipper Creek HSC-40 charging station $550 + $200 for installation.

Nissan contacted me after picking up my initial posting on these boards; they inspected my Leaf, the trickle charging unit as well as the damage at my house. They concluded that there was nothing wrong with the car or charging unit and did not comment on the house wiring. As I posted initially when I called Nissan after in the incident they were not interested.

The electrician repairing my home confirmed that the wiring was to code, the circuit was a 12/3 wire, GFI outlet circuit with a 15A breaker. Connections at the outlet were screwed and not press fit. At the time of the fire the Leaf was the only item connected to the circuit. So the cause of the fire not really known but possible suspect, no evidence to suggest either is a loose wire nut or tight staple. I did not have a certified electrician check the outlet prior to using it to charge my Leaf – my mistake. It worked without issue for three months prior to the fire. Granted hearsay but the fire department officer who attended my fire said it wasn’t the first fire they have attended to resulting from an electric vehicle being charged.

When I bought the Leaf I had full intention of buying a 240V charger, however after a few days charging with the trickle charger we found that it met our charging needs and decided to stick with that alone. I know of two the Leaf owners – both aware of my fire still charging with the trickle chargers. I consider myself average consumer with average awareness; I live in an average house with average construction. I felt with the warnings and anything I may have heard during the purchase (I don’t believe I was told anything – I don’t remember either way) or on the Nissan paperwork did not represent significant risk.

Fundamentally I believe there are some issues that Nissan and other electrical car companies need to address.

• The portable trickle charging unit, and its handy case in the trunk, seems to me to be a portable device in case you need a charge maybe when visiting family on the other side of town or taking a trip outside the return distance and needing a top up while you are there. Well if it is, is the expectation that you have an electrician check every place you might need to plug into is impractical.
• It seems that the 12A draw over a long period of time is too close to the limit of home circuits. 12A is required to make the reasonable charging time, reducing it a safer 10A would make the charging time impractical and would not help sell the vehicles.
• Finally as an average user, I sort of read everything, but still did not really understand the risk, and I don’t feel I was properly informed. Manufacturers need to place larger more significant signage on the trickle units as well as specific instruction of the hazards in writing as well as dealer warnings. I cannot prove now but I believe that the warning label was wound tightly around the cable with an elastic band around it; so not obvious at all.

I am not looking to blame anyone for my fire, but I would like to make the hazard more public to that this doesn’t happen to anyone else. I think manufacturers should make some effort to communicate the hazard.

 

[MikeD]

I find it hard to believe that they apparently found no evidence of arcing or some other cause of a temperature high enough to cause a fire. You said the circuit had 12 AWG wire -- which should be able to handle 16a continuously, not just 12a! If the EVSE/Leaf somehow drew too much current, I would expect the breaker to trip. I can't imagine a scenario that would explain how they could be responsible for a fire from the descriptions you have given -- can you? Can you post a copy of the official report on the fire?

Apparently Square D for one seems about to release a single circuit breaker that functions both as a GFCI and a CAFI: "QO Dual Function Circuit Breakers - The QO Dual Function Circuit Breaker combines two state-of-the art technologies; Combination Arc Fault and Ground Fault protection, in a single, easy-to-install device.". My understanding is that if arcing occurs in a circuit, there is a good possibility that a circuit breaker like this will trip quick enough to prevent a fire. I don't know an expected price on the 20a ones: QO120DF (QO panels) and HOM120DF (Homeline panels). They also have QO120PDF (QO plug-on-neutral panels), which eliminates the need to connect a pigtail from the breaker to the neutral bar. I would expect these are the next "big innovation" in residential circuit breakers, and I look forward to learning more about them.

 

[Seeley]

I charge at work off a 15amp 110 outlet. Since I rarely fall below 80%, or if I do, it's still more than 75% so far, would I be correct in assuming my OEM ESVE is not pulling the full 12amps for very long before it ramps down to slow the charge?

Setting fire to my workplace would be considered poor form.

 

[davewill]

I charge at work off a 15amp 110 outlet. Since I rarely fall below 80%, or if I do, it's still more than 75% so far, would I be correct in assuming my OEM ESVE is not pulling the full 12amps for very long before it ramps down to slow the charge?

Setting fire to my workplace would be considered poor form.

The car isn't going to ramp down from 120v 12a until it's almost completely charged. That said... This isn't really something to be guessing about. In your shoes, I'd buy one of those point and shoot thermometers and check the plug and outlet very carefully for any overheating after charging for an hour or so. If you have any reason whatsoever to question the condition of the plug, please have someone qualified inspect it and/or replace it.

 

[jdunmyer]

Check the temperature of the outlet that you're plugged into, after an hour or so of charging. It should NOT be hot.