Using clone ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII adapter with Leaf

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stjohnh said:
Mine doesn't look like that, how do I get ver 0.26?
What version do you have?

v0.26 is not out yet. The highest current level is beta version v0.25q1.

The part of the Settings screen that I just showed is the same between as v0.25b which is the latest one in the released dropbox and beta v0.25q1. So I am not sure what version you have.
 
Jim referred to 0.26 earlier today (I have 0.25, I am not one of the beta testers):

Turbo3 said:
stjohnh said:
Looks like a good place to ask some questions about the app:


What version of the app are you using?

1.) There is no "reserve" miles setting. Only %SOC or kWh.
2.) WattsLeft displays % of energy remaining based on real GIDs. Versions 0.26 and higher display real GIDs and the % shown to the right of GIDs will match WattsLeft % exactly.
3.) Possible with newer version of app that supports real GIDs.
4.) 'GIDS are simulated GIDs and have been replaced with real GIDs in Versions 0.26 and higher. Real GIDs match WattsLeft exactly.

Jim
 
Version 0.25q3 (-FS) is up for testing.

Fixes
- Increased RPM line width so difference number does not wrap to second line.


If you have any bugs you have been hold back on now is the time to report them if you want them fixed in v0.26 ;-)
 
Feature request: On screen 4 I would like to be able to toggle between Raw Gids, Gid % and SOC % for the large number in the left hand corner.

PS No bugs to report.
 
On the Kyocera eVent, I see the RPM as "0000 RPM 0" on v0.25q3,
right up against the left edge of the screen.

Instead of a Setting for DTE, distance to LBW, or VLBW, perhaps a tap on the
big distance digits could cycle through the three options. That would be
much easier to manipulate while driving, which is when one might like
to explore the increasing distances.

Could one toggle between seeing %GIDs and GID values in the big
font, perhaps by tapping on the (...) small font area of the GIDs line?
I always drive by %GIDs. Thanks.

Please keep up your most splendid work.

We have yet to test using the App while doing a mini-QC with our
new experimental Robomo charger, using the QC port.
But, I will attempt the test soon, and report.
 
Turbo3 said:
Version 0.25q4 (-FS) is up for testing.

Features/Fixes
- Moved RPM field away from left edge.
- Tapping DTE number will cycle through LBW->VLBW->rsrv->LBW->...

This v. the RPMs and A. show no numbers while driving, just zeros.
 
Version 0.26 (-FS) has now been released.

This closes out the 0.25 beta test program.

Thanks to all of you who helped make significant improvements to this version.

Jim

Time to start updating the documentation with all the great improvements ;-)
 
Turbo3 said:
Just backed out of the garage and back in and it works for me.

It does take a few seconds to update.

I drove several miles. The Amps doesn't work either. Maybe it is a 2013 issue like GIDs was.
 
Just trying out 0.26 and noticed one small bug. When the app is on page 4 where the battery temps and psi show, the label indicating F or (PSI) does not show when using the black background (when the bottom light switch is off). Probably it's just that the text is to black...
 
Turbo3 said:
Version 0.26 (-FS) has now been released.

This closes out the 0.25 beta test program.

Thanks to all of you who helped make significant improvements to this version.

Jim

Time to start updating the documentation with all the great improvements ;-)
Thanks for all your hard work on this. One quick question -- Is the log format different between .25 and .26?
 
Refreshed v0.26 with fix for color problem with PSI/temp label in night mode and also updated beta link and passcode for next beta test.

Yes, it is possible 2013s have RPM in a different place or the format is a little different like with gids. I will make up a test version in the 26 beta folder when I have time. If you know the passcode for version 0.25 you should be able to determine the passcode for version 0.26 ;-)

The two additions to the log file are VIN (real) and Health.
 
Thanks Jim, wonderful work. Got 0.26.

Now a completely different question:

Both my wife's SV and my S (both 2013) show about 60-61 AHr with 92% health. Both cars are about 6 wks old. Both manufactured May 2013. I have been worried that Nissan put out a bunch of bad batteries (there have been other reports of very recently sold 2013s with AHr readings of 60-61). When I check the Leaf Dash SOC at LBW on either one I get 17%. My understanding is that a bad or degraded battery should show a much higher SOC (on the Leaf Dash) at LBW. The AHr display on the Leaf Battery app didn't change going from ver 0.25 to 0.26 ( both cars)

Does anyone have any idea how to explain this? Do I have 2 cars with bad batteries? Has Nissan changed the programming of how it reports AHr to the OBDII connector? Does the rumored "battery chemistry changes" for 2013 have anything to do with this?

I can drive a little over 80 mi at 4.5 mi/kwh (starting from 100% charged) and still not quite hit turtle.
 
LEAFfan said:
Turbo3 said:
Just backed out of the garage and back in and it works for me.

It does take a few seconds to update.

I drove several miles. The Amps doesn't work either. Maybe it is a 2013 issue like GIDs was.
If you take a small ELM trace with the car on I can check and see what is going on with RPM.

Before driving start up app and go to Settings/Debug panel and check the "Trace ELM" checkbox. Then exit app.

Then with the Leaf on and ready to drive start up the app and drive for 30 seconds with status being CONNECTED then exit app. If you keep the app running too long the file will get very large. I only need a few cycles of reading the Leaf to see what is going on with the 2013.

Go to the LEAF_BT_CAN directory and send me the TRCdata.txt file. You should delete this file after you transfer it so a fresh one will be generated if you ever need to take another trace. Otherwise it will be appended to and keep getting larger.

You can zip the file if it is too large (>1 MB). Send to [email protected]
 
stjohnh said:
Both my wife's SV and my S (both 2013) show about 60-61 AHr with 92% health. Both cars are about 6 wks old. Both manufactured May 2013. I have been worried that Nissan put out a bunch of bad batteries (there have been other reports of very recently sold 2013s with AHr readings of 60-61). When I check the Leaf Dash SOC at LBW on either one I get 17%. My understanding is that a bad or degraded battery should show a much higher SOC (on the Leaf Dash) at LBW. The AHr display on the Leaf Battery app didn't change going from ver 0.25 to 0.26 ( both cars)
If the past is any guide, it's very unlikely that both batteries came from the factory in substandard condition. This is a separate topic from the much discussed heat-sensitivity and longevity. Please note that no Ah and SOH readings were available in 2011 and 2012 and the owner community is still learning to interpret them properly. Certainly, a low reading poses a question mark, but I would not read into those values too much. It would be more helpful for you to note the GIDs from both vehicles, especially since real GIDs are now available in v 0.26. This is a much better understood CAN bus value, and it would be easier to interpret. That said, I would direct your attention to a similar question raised in a different thread by Boomer.

stjohnh said:
Does anyone have any idea how to explain this? Do I have 2 cars with bad batteries? Has Nissan changed the programming of how it reports AHr to the OBDII connector? Does the rumored "battery chemistry changes" for 2013 have anything to do with this?
The response to all these questions would be a "no". That said, most of the information on the forum is interpretative, Nissan has not offered any formal guidance on most of the topics discussed here.

stjohnh said:
I can drive a little over 80 mi at 4.5 mi/kwh (starting from 100% charged) and still not quite hit turtle.
Yes. Assuming that your GID count on a full charge was 258 or better, which is almost certainly the case with a new battery, your usable energy should be at least 18.75 kWh. This factors in 5% heat and other discharge losses, and about 0.6 kWh remaining in the battery after turtle mode: 18.75 kWh * 4.5 m/kWh = 84.4 miles. I would consider this to be the worst-case scenario with a factory-new battery. Since you appear to be a relatively new owner (congrats BTW), I would recommend joining the local Facebook group, and taking your questions to the threads listed below. This particular thread is focused on app development, and Jim indicated earlier that he would like to keep it focused on that.

Discuss data from the LEAF Battery app, and Comparisons
newownermnl


Range Chart
 
stjohnh said:
Thanks Jim, wonderful work. Got 0.26.

Now a completely different question:

Both my wife's SV and my S (both 2013) show about 60-61 AHr with 92% health. Both cars are about 6 wks old. Both manufactured May 2013. I have been worried that Nissan put out a bunch of bad batteries (there have been other reports of very recently sold 2013s with AHr readings of 60-61). When I check the Leaf Dash SOC at LBW on either one I get 17%. My understanding is that a bad or degraded battery should show a much higher SOC (on the Leaf Dash) at LBW. The AHr display on the Leaf Battery app didn't change going from ver 0.25 to 0.26 ( both cars)

Does anyone have any idea how to explain this? Do I have 2 cars with bad batteries? Has Nissan changed the programming of how it reports AHr to the OBDII connector? Does the rumored "battery chemistry changes" for 2013 have anything to do with this?

I can drive a little over 80 mi at 4.5 mi/kwh (starting from 100% charged) and still not quite hit turtle.

Holland, I have a 2013 with a mid-May mfr date as well. My current AH reading is about 63 AH. I haven't loaded v26 yet, but I got a health reading from GregH from his DD meter and it was 99 about a month ago.

80 miles at 4.5 mi/kWh is quite low, but see my comments about full range to Turtle, below.

I believe that LBW occurs at 49 Gids on all LEAFs, which is 17% Gids and also very close to 17% SOC for a new car, so I don't think you have a problem there.

I drove my car down to Turtle at 4.5 mi/kWh and I got 98.4 miles. However, the readings acted very strangely down near Turtle, as follows: I drove the car down to 10 Gids (true Gids) and 90.4 miles. But then I noticed that the ELM still showed that I had about 2.7 kWh remaining. So I decided to drive the car all the way down to Turtle. I was able to drive almost 8 more miles to Turtle on only 6 Gids!! and I ended up with 98.3 miles at Turtle. And my Gid readings from my Gidmeter dropped from 10 Gids at 90.4 miles to 4 Gids at Turtle!

I haven't repeated the experiment, but at least in my case, there was extra driveable range remaining below 10 Gids, or 3.6% Gids. From this experiment, I believe that those of us with 2013 cars can't be sure what our total usable range is unless we drive all the way to Turtle.
 
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