Repeated ground faults from evse

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Unfortunately, the OEM supplied 120/240V EVSE that comes with some later model Leaf's does NOT support 208V. For some reason, the EVSE will shut down charging when plugged into 208V. The on-board charger will still work so if you need to charge at 208V you will need to use a non-OEM EVSE.
 
Unfortunately, the OEM supplied 120/240V EVSE that comes with some later model Leaf's does NOT support 208V. For some reason, the EVSE will shut down charging when plugged into 208V. The on-board charger will still work so if you need to charge at 208V you will need to use a non-OEM EVSE.
I wonder what is up with that? That is why I said it is important to check the EVSE's spec's. I know EVSE supplied to the JDM would get to hot on 220/240 as reported by some people in OZ and New Zealand.
I did not know that about the factory supplied dual voltage unit, thanks.
 
(Note that this is written from Britain where the wiring and rules are different, although the physics of how electricity works is not yet under government control in any country.)

A GFI (alias RCD) trips if the total leakage current goes over its threshold for its detection time. Because every device has a small leakage current, it's possible that the car and the EVSE both contribute to the safety trip. Example: if the GFI limit is a nominal 30 mA but it's drifted a little out of spec to 25 mA, the EVSE has a 7 mA leakage and the car has 20 mA ... total 27 mA, more than 25, click, power off. Neither car nor EVSE alone would cause any problem. (This is a growing issue in Britain where a lot of small electrical devices have a milliamp or two leakage, and older homes have a single 30 mA RCD protecting a whole house, or one floor of a larger home. Add together laundry, kitchen, network and other gadgets and the total is close to the RCD/GFI limit, and one more device causes a "nuisance" trip.)

Leakage currents can be independently tested by an electrician with the right measurement equipment and skills. Lesser skill and simpler equipment should locate any incorrect house wiring -- sounds as though that at least might be a useful check here.

If the car has an insulation fault on one side only of the two type-1 connector power leads, the leakage current will be much higher for 120 V charging with the plug one way round than the other; and for 240 volt charging, where both connectors are at 120 V from ground, there will be high leakage whichever way it's connected. A wiring fault in the car, or a fault in its on-board charger (OBC), are both of them possibilities, and both repairable, so don't either rule those out or panic if they prove to be the cause.
 
Unfortunately, the OEM supplied 120/240V EVSE that comes with some later model Leaf's does NOT support 208V. For some reason, the EVSE will shut down charging when plugged into 208V. The on-board charger will still work so if you need to charge at 208V you will need to use a non-OEM EVSE.
We will see if the one coming works then
 
IIRC many plug-in EVSEs state to not use on GFCI circuit.
I've heard that some EVSE's have built in GFI protection and actually test it every time they are engaged. If so, that could easily trip a GFCI circuit as well.

That said, current NEC requires GFCI protection on any outlets in a garage. I don't know if there is an exception for EVSE's or not but a hard-wired unit does not require a GFCI circuit AFAIK.
 
I've heard that some EVSE's have built in GFI protection and actually test it every time they are engaged. If so, that could easily trip a GFCI circuit as well.

That said, current NEC requires GFCI protection on any outlets in a garage. I don't know if there is an exception for EVSE's or not but a hard-wired unit does not require a GFCI circuit AFAIK.
That may be required. There is a specific one my HOA is set up for. I’m gonna try the topdon one first, but if that doesn’t work I’ll be going with that next.
 
IIRC many plug-in EVSEs state to not use on GFCI circuit.
All outlets that are outside, or in a garage, in a basement, kitchen, and bathroom, are now required to be on a GFI circuit. SO I don't know how they can expect to not be on a GFI circuit. Hardwired doesn't need to be because the wiring in either in conduit or in the wall (If it is wired to code) and therefore there is no chance of coming in contact with the wiring before the EVSE. The EVSE by design must look for a ground fault between it an the car, confirm there is none, before the contactors can pull in.
When I wired my garage, the EVSE 50 amp outlet was put on a dedicated GFI breaker and there have been no adverse effects from doing so, so I would question your info.
 
Here's a photo of the specs on the back of my 2018 OEM Nissan EVSE, it only shows 120v and 240v, with no mention of a +- range. I've used this EVSE for 5 years on a dedicated 50 GFCI breaker and have never had a nuisance fault.
 

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I was not known by the O/P, me and it would seam more than few others. As you stated, most aftermarket EVSE's work on a wide verity of inputs and frequencies. I don't have the unit in question so no way I would know. Those that have them may assume they are like most aftermarket ones, but it seams they are not.
208 is a very common voltage in the US and I would guess Canada, mostly in commercial buildings. It would make sense to have made it accommodate that voltage as well esp since it is used with a NEMA 14-50 plug, and there is no "single phase" 208 NEMA configuration so 14-50 is used for it as well.
The Nissan EVSE that came with my 2015 is 120 volt only, so it was never an issue with me. I have an aftermarket level 2 that operates from 90 to 240 volts, according to the spec's for it.
 
I got this one. Which apparently works from 200-240v according to my electrician. It was pretty cheap for a charger, but it theoreticallly will work. I’m a bit leery of the app because Chinese malware, so I may not use that bit. We shall see. It arrives on the 3rd from Amazon.
Yes, of course... Because there's a little Chinese guy sitting in a vast room full of millions of other Chinese guys monitoring your app just waiting for you to plug your EV in, then wait a while until he thinks you are fast asleep and then he's going to turn off your charger just so he can "Hah-hah - you silly American!" (in a suitable stereo-typical Chinese accented English) and get a silver star from his supervisor. All very Orwellian - but really... you lot are all barking mad.
 
Yes, of course... Because there's a little Chinese guy sitting in a vast room full of millions of other Chinese guys monitoring your app just waiting for you to plug your EV in...
I get the sarcasm, but I wouldn't mess with any Chinese made EVSE...because most are designed/built like crap. You get what you pay for.
 
It is likely that some or all of the components in a US or other country build came from China anyway. The pursuit of profit out ways the desire to produce things locally. If you don't trust their EVSE's why do you trust their batteries?
Not saying I like it, but the facts are most chips and electronic devices, regardless of what name is on the outside come from SE Asia, and most from China
 
It is likely that some or all of the components in a US or other country build came from China anyway. The pursuit of profit out ways the desire to produce things locally. If you don't trust their EVSE's why do you trust their batteries?
Not saying I like it, but the facts are most chips and electronic devices, regardless of what name is on the outside come from SE Asia, and most from China
Did you see the name on the EVSE in the pic he posted? I've never even heard of it!
I also avoid batteries made in China (even my 12v Lithium is not China-based), and there is a difference between "made in China" and "made in Taiwan" (or other parts of Asia).
 
Did you see the name on the EVSE in the pic he posted? I've never even heard of it!
I also avoid batteries made in China (even my 12v Lithium is not China-based), and there is a difference between "made in China" and "made in Taiwan" (or other parts of Asia).
Topdon, yeah I've seen it, and I agree it is likely made in China, but so are most others. Topdon has a US brick and mortar address so you can contact someone within this country.
Their portable EVSE looks remarkably like the Primecon charger that came with my used Leaf. I would very surprised if either of them were made outside of China.
That said, I bet if you open a Seimans unit you'll find all the chips and most of the components made in China. Not saying I like it, just the facts.
How are you so certain your Li battery was made in the US? It may be sold under a US name/maker but the ultimate source may be anywhere in the world, and China being a leading mfg, it is a good bet thats where it originated from.
 
"Made in China" doesn't mean one thing, anymore. From Big to Small: it can mean an American or EU Multinational making things in China using Chinese labor but the standards and practices of the corporation. There are also Chinese corporations that are as large, and that have somewhat similar Quality Control. Then there are smaller Chinese companies with widely varying quality in their output. Finally, there are tiny shops, much like the garage-based "companies" that used to exist all over the US and Europe in the 20th Century. With so many tiny vendors, it can be a bit like the Wild West - or, in this case, East...
 
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