Random braking when accelerating

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Artgarz

Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2022
Messages
6
I just got a 2015 Leaf from a used nissan dealer.

First two days car worked perfectly.

This morning I was stopped at a red light, and accelerated slowly when it turned green, when all of a sudden the regen brake bar goes green, and the car lurches to the right and slows down as if id pressed the brakes. I tried pressing the accelerator and it moved forward a few feet before doing it again, happened about ten times in a row then suddenly the ABS, Red Brake light, VDC warning light all light up. The. The car begins to drive normally for the rest of the ride with the dash lit up like a Christmas tree of warnings.

I tried driving it out of Eco mode, and punched the accelerator later on in the day and it happened again.

Same when I was driving home from work.

Brake fluid seems like its at a good level, however I was gonna stop by a store and get some in the morning to top it off.

Anyone experience this? Any clues as to what it might be?
 
I've never heard of this scenario but a weak or insufficiently charged 12V battery is known to cause all sorts of havoc with the electronic control systems on Leafs. This can cause all sorts of random problems and/or trouble codes.

I would check the 12V battery and fully charge it with an external charger to see if that helps. Monitor its voltage level and it if doesn't stay at an acceptable level it may need to be replaced.
 
goldbrick said:
I've never heard of this scenario but a weak or insufficiently charged 12V battery is known to cause all sorts of havoc with the electronic control systems on Leafs. This can cause all sorts of random problems and/or trouble codes.

I would check the 12V battery and fully charge it with an external charger to see if that helps. Monitor its voltage level and it if doesn't stay at an acceptable level it may need to be replaced.

Unfortunately it has a brand new 12v battery :(
 
Was it fully charged when installed? A Leaf doesn't put out as much charging current as an ICE so if the battery starts at a low SOC it will probably stay there.
 
I just had the 12v checked and its at 100% charge, so ive ordered an obd2 reader so I can see if leafspy pros got anything for me :|
 
Still waiting on obd2 reader, but I found that turning the traction control off stops the issue altogether..

Any idea what that could mean?
 
Sounds like maybe it thinks a wheel is slipping. When it happens, do you see the yellow traction control light blink on the dash?

Seriously sounds like a bad 12v battery. Stick that on an external charger to make sure it's topped off, especially since you said it's a new battery. Maybe it's low from sitting and hasn't charged up yet... Or maybe the new battery is defective. Are you sure the battery terminals are snug and tight?

DTC codes will be really helpful when you get them.
 
Got my OBD2 reader today.

Here are my DTC codes

C1115 0008 ABS ABS Sensor Abnormal Signal BRC-85
C1145 0008 ABS Yaw Rate Sensor BRC-81
C118C 0108 ABS EV/HEV System BRC-126
B142A 1608 AIR BAG
U1000 0008 BCM CAN Comm Circuit
B2193 O008 BCM Chain of BCM-ECM SEC-62
B2562 0008 BCM Low Voltage BCS-69
C1705 0008 BCM Low Pressure FR WT-26
C1A62 0108 BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53
C1A70 0108 BRAKE Brake Control System BR-160
U100A 8708 CHARGER
Ok None EPS
Ok None-> EV/HEV
Ok None -> HVAAC
Ok None -> HV BATTERY
U1000 O008 IPDM E/R CAN Comm Circuit
Ok None-> METER
Ok None- MOTOR CONTROL
Ok None -> SHIFT
Ok None --> VSP
 
A lot of those error codes are typical for weak 12V battery. Check/clean all of the battery cable connections (both positive and ground). In particular, check and clean the ground connection of the negative cable at the fender near the battery (looks like a cable support clip, but is actually a ground connection so the bolt, threads in body, and clip need to be clean and tight).
 
How many times should I check my 12v before my car starts working?

Is there any other piece of advice you may be able to give?

Ive now checked it three times, cleaned the terminals 3 times, had it charged by a friends trickle charge even though the status was at 100% battery life and leafspy pro reporting a voltage of between 12.75-13.05v

Its not the 12v.
 
The more expensive possibilities are that one or more of the control modules are failing and interfering with CAN bus communication, the ABS module or sensor(s) are failing, or the brake module is failing. CAN bus communication errors and power supply errors are often caused by 12V battery issues (weak battery or loose connections). That is why everyone keeps recommending that you check ALL of the ground and positive connections along with the state of charge and load capacity of the 12V battery.
 
I had a similar issues on 2 different Nissan Leaf's I own and it had to do with the steering wheel position sensor both times. The first time it was a badly miscalibrated steering wheel sensor and the second time it was a bad alignment on a Leaf I bought from Copart for parts.

Each time my car was thinking I was in a skid and applying breaks to straighten out the skid even though I was going perfectly strait.
 
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