OpenEVSE - Open Source Charging Station

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TonyWilliams said:
Any plans to make a 40 amp version?

Probably not. The 30A version works well because the relay has both PC pins and external QC connections. The main AC current stays off the board. I have not found a similar relay for 40A. I could use the same relay used in the TESLA mobile charger but that creates a couple additional issues. Wire to board connections that support 40A and PCB traces that carry high current.

I have experimented with onboard high current traces but I was not happy with the heat even with very wide traces top and bottom and heavy copper thickness. They got really hot even at 12A. I did not bother testing at higher currents.
 
chris1howell said:
I just finished testing a new board that has been frequently requested. A full featured J1772 controller with built in 30A relays. It really simplifies a charge station build significantly. As always it is completely Open Source, design files and source code are online now.

Blog post:http://openevse-store.myshopify.com/blogs/news/9641505-new-product-30a-diy-openevse-plus

IMG_8980_medium.jpg

Hi Chris,
Any chance you'll be making a package with this new board and the rest of the components (fuses, blocks, LCD etc) like the other DIY package?
 
I rebuilt my garage OpenEVSE. I wanted to have the current meter inside and simplify it with an OpenEVSE Plus DIY. Since it only operates on 240VAC, I eliminated the 12V contactor and power supply.

Since a 240V contactor draws about 50W I added ventilation. This completely defeats the water resistance but if the water gets up to the EVSE I have other worries.





 
I received an order from Chris today. I included the RGB Led board since I was ordering stuff anyway. I had held off on trying it since $8 shipping for something that can be stuffed into an envelope is outrageous!

It turns out it is a true RGB device even though it looks to be separate leds.

Here is a photo of the yellow ready for charging light. As you can see it has the red and green merged to create yellow.

 
The one used in the photos looks beefy but the one from China that he links to in my experience gets really warm at 16A. I purchased 2 but I would not recommend it. The contacts seem fine but the connecting wire seems small and gets very hot.

You are welcome to my second relay since I no not plan to use it.

I think contactors that have no wire connecting the armature are a better bet. I think China specs are very optimistic. I have a cell phone battery that weighs exactly the same as the original but is rated 400MAH better. RIGHT!
 
I wouldn't use that relay in a home EVSE, that is daily used for 3+ hours at a time. It is fine for a portable EVSE, that is used occasionally for 1-2 hours at a time. I have about 15 hours on my portable EVSE, with that relay.
 
GlennD, I bought a couple of those amp/voltmeters from the eBay seller as well, arrived very quickly, and how can you beat under $10 for the meter & CT? In case anyone else is interested, here is the link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400569495312?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Yeah, I know the price drop is amazing. I paid around twenty dollars for the first one and I thought it was a good deal. I do not know how the Chinese do it.

When I get a chance I am going to calibrate it with my RMS clamp on meter. It seems to read about an amp low. The EVSE current draw is not a sine wave but an approximation. I am sure the meter is calibrated for a true sine wave.

There are cal pots for both voltage and current. They are opposite from the display. eg: the current pot is behind the voltage display.
 
srl99 said:
Any info on the 40A relay/contactor used in the juicebox? It's low cost ? A good product?

I would not reccomend using it. There are many who have tried that relay and the consensus it it runs too hot. A Tesla owner uses one on a portable unit with a custom case and active cooling.
 
The spec. sheet says 100 milliohm contact resistance, that is 160 watts at 40 amp and 640 watts at 80 amps. Figures they would use a relay that cost them less the $5. A SquareD 75 amp relay costs $100.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/JQX-62F-" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 83981.html
 
Just a heads up, I saw that Leviton is having a 20% off everything sale. I plan on building an OpenEVSE soon and it sounds like they make the J1772 cable/connector that everyone is using so I have one coming now.

Check it out for yourself if you would like. Sale ends 12/3/2013 so hurry and order one if you need it.

http://store.leviton.com
 
Well the relay from Amazon arrived today. Surprise,Surprise, It is from the same Chinese company ( QIANJI) as my 40A din rail relay. I can readily believe it runs very hot. My 40A relay is almost too hot to touch at 16A. Based on what I see this would likely be a good 30A relay. 80A is a long stretch. This company must use very tiny amps.

Pchilds and Chris Howell are right. Do not waste your money on this relay.

12/16/2013 I just used this relay in a 30A device. It runs cool so at this level it is fine.
 
I recently had trouble with the openEVSE that I built. The root of my trouble was that I didn’t waterproof the display well enough and I ended up with water damage to the display and had to replace it.

Unfortunately, coincidence reared its head and a previous shortcoming in my installation picked this time to show itself. My EVSE would stop charging after just a few seconds. It ran for months with no trouble and then all of a sudden, it will only run for less than a minute. It wasn’t until I brought it home and opened it up while charging that I was able to make progress. I could faintly hear a “
buzz” and when I gently moved a wire, that’s when I made real progress with a bang!

Turns out that one of the spade crimps that I used had a defect on the blade socket and it was loose on the blade. My crimps were still good and tight, but the contact from the connector to the relay blade was loose. I don’t know how I managed to run it for months with no issues, but when I moved it to replace the display, contact was poor. The terminal easily slipped off the spade.

I’ve got it fixed now, but I thought I’d share the problems I had.
 
It's interesting that FairwoodRed had problems with quick connect terminals at high current. I'm worried about that, too, so I did some research on the current rating of QC terminals (Faston, Quick Connect, etc.)

Most manufacturers don't specify a rating for 6.35mm tab quick connections. Is that good or bad?

Molex does current specify a rating for their 1/4" Avikrimp connector, depending on wire size. With AWG 10, they limit the connector to 24A, and reference UL 310. See http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ps/PS-19902-014.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Another example is the Buss BM6032SQ fuse block that I'm using. It is rated 30A 600V from the screw terminals but only 20A from the QUIK CON. terminals. See http://datasheet.octopart.com/BM6033SQ-Cooper-datasheet-7585294.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yet the TE relay that many of us are using is rated at 30A and has QC terminals. And many of us are successfully using that relay with those connections up to 30A. Ratings are supposed to give very long service life with harsh conditions for 99.99% of the devices sold. Perhaps we're getting lucky or perhaps we should expect a few percent failure over time. Electrical failure at high current and high voltage scares me.

Side comment - I don't trust my crimp connections. I don't have a fancy crimp tool, and cheap crimp tools are not consistent, so I do my best at crimping with my cheap tool, then carefully over-solder them, just for an extra level of security. A good crimp is probably better than a soldered connection because it can handle flex better, but a poor crimp is clearly worse. And if there is no flex required, I think that a soldered crimp should be fine.

I'm very tempted to also solder my QC connectors to the tabs once the unit has been running well for a few months, just as an added degree of safety. If I need to do maintenance, it will be harder, but not impossible. And the individual parts are cheap, especially compared to J1772A connectors and cables, so I can afford to replace a relay or fuse block if necessary.

What do others think? Am I being paranoid? Is there something that I'm missing? Do you have a good reason to trust these connectors at 30A?

By the way, many, many thanks to Chris and everyone else who contributed to the OpenEVSE. Mine worked correctly first time. It's a great design, with the right balance of safety and capability, and so much flexibility. Thank you!!!!

Bob
 
Nearly everyone rates yellow 1/4 inch push on connectors at 25A. If you have a higher rated contactor it usually had multiple spade connectors to spread out the current.

Personally, I believe in reserve. I would never use a 30A relay at 30A. In my main garage unit I have a 50A contactor for 30A service.
 
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