LeafCAN Firmware v2

[QueenBee]

The older firmware that Sam and I have did not click. After my upgrade I can clearly hear the relay clicking. I just turn to the main page before charging.

Did you guys see the post where Phil explains the cause of this?

 

[TickTock]

The older firmware that Sam and I have did not click. After my upgrade I can clearly hear the relay clicking. I just turn to the main page before charging.

Did you guys see the post where Phil explains the cause of this?

It is the SSOFF (Self Shutoff) Relay located in the relay box on the passenger side under the hood (even though from within the cabin it sounds like the sound comes from the driver side). If the VCM isn't already powered when you request the data, it is turned on via the SSOFF relay and subsequently turned back off by the VCM (i.e. "self" shutoff).

 

[TomT]

An interesting issue came up with Turbo3's Android App: "Turbo3: If LeafDD is also using the same requests that my app is then that is a big problem. You should not have two active devices on the OBDII even if they are on different CANs (EV,CAR). Remove one of them."

I am using his App concurrently with version 1.3 of Lincomatic and they both get along fine, probably because version 1.3 is passive... The question is, is version 2.0 also passive or does it actively interrogate the buss? If it is active, likely the same issue would exist...

 

[GlennD]

The answer is yes.

It is both passive and active. It is only active when you select one of the interactive screens. The main screen and the distance to low battery, very low battery, and turtle seem to be passive.

 

[supra410]

I have a quick question about my SOC. Today was my first chance to really drain my battery. I had one bar remaining,but my SOC showed about 30.1% Is this accurate? All this time I was thinking I had 10% when I actually had a bit more? Forgive me asking if this has been addressed, but would turtle hit at a specific percentage, or zero? I'm really enjoying the seemingly more precise info I'm being provided. Just trying to get a better understanding of my true range. Not what Nissan is force feeding me.

 

[DaveEV]

I have a quick question about my SOC. Today was my first chance to really drain my battery. I had one bar remaining,but my SOC showed about 30.1% Is this accurate? All this time I was thinking I had 10% when I actually had a bit more? Forgive me asking if this has been addressed, but would turtle hit at a specific percentage, or zero? I'm really enjoying the seemingly more precise info I'm being provided. Just trying to get a better understanding of my true range. Not what Nissan is force feeding me.

LBW happens at 49 GIDs, VLBW at 25 GIDs and turtle around 6-8 GIDs.

The SOC this happens will change depending on how much capacity your battery pack has. Because a GID is a fixed amount of capacity (appx 80 Ah), as your battery capacity goes down, the SOC % LBW is triggered will go up. For example, today I triggered LBW at 26.4% but a couple months ago, LBW triggered in the 24% range.

So SOC is not always that useful for trying to figure out remaining range, GIDs are much more useful in that regard since they are more predictable. The downside is that a GID seems to represent less energy in warm temperatures compared to cold temperatures.

 

[supra410]

.

LBW happens at 49 GIDs, VLBW at 25 GIDs and turtle around 6-8 GIDs.

The SOC this happens will change depending on how much capacity your battery pack has. Because a GID is a fixed amount of capacity (appx 80 Ah), as your battery capacity goes down, the SOC % LBW is triggered will go up. For example, today I triggered LBW at 26.4% but a couple months ago, LBW triggered in the 24% range.

So SOC is not always that useful for trying to figure out remaining range, GIDs are much more useful in that regard since they are more predictable. The downside is that a GID seems to represent less energy in warm temperatures compared to cold temperatures.

Fantastic explanation! Thank you very much! My battery is 2 yrs old with 12,700 miles on it. Today's 100% showed 239 gids. I'm guessing I could expect a bar lost soon. Absolutely loving my SOC meter. Loving it's overall ease of use & many selectable screens.

 

[GlennD]

I have tried a lot of displays. I started with the stock Arduino blue but it washed out under bright conditions. I then found a yellow one that switched to reflective. This was very good. I tried a blue and a white OLED display. Under perfect conditions they were the best but they washed out.

I saw a white display on ebay and it is the best yet. It was expensive at $15 shipped but it is now my display of choice.

 

[LEAFfan]

I have a quick question about my SOC. Today was my first chance to really drain my battery. I had one bar remaining,but my SOC showed about 30.1% Is this accurate? All this time I was thinking I had 10% when I actually had a bit more? Forgive me asking if this has been addressed, but would turtle hit at a specific percentage, or zero? I'm really enjoying the seemingly more precise info I'm being provided. Just trying to get a better understanding of my true range. Not what Nissan is force feeding me.

LBW happens at 49 GIDs, VLBW at 25 GIDs and turtle around 6-8 GIDs.

The SOC this happens will change depending on how much capacity your battery pack has. Because a GID is a fixed amount of capacity (appx 80 Ah), as your battery capacity goes down, the SOC % LBW is triggered will go up. For example, today I triggered LBW at 26.4% but a couple months ago, LBW triggered in the 24% range.

So SOC is not always that useful for trying to figure out remaining range, GIDs are much more useful in that regard since they are more predictable. The downside is that a GID seems to represent less energy in warm temperatures compared to cold temperatures.

I've always used the Gids % to determine LBW (17.4%), VLBW (8.5%), and Turtle (1.4%). These values don't change as you lose bars. At least it was the same for mine after losing a bar. SoC % doesn't work after you've lost some capacity.

 

[GlennD]

I just received 3 of Barbouri's boards from OHS Park. The rotary encoder does not work. It turns out he used a different port. The encoder is connected to pins 35, 36, 37. This is PC0, PC1, PC2.

The stock port in Leafcan.h is port C. What do I change it to to make the switch work?

 

[lincomatic]

I just received 3 of Barbouri's boards from OHS Park. The rotary encoder does not work. It turns out he used a different port. The encoder is connected to pins 35, 36, 37. This is PC0, PC1, PC2.

The stock port in Leafcan.h is port C. What do I change it to to make the switch work?

Are you using the code from github? V203 must be defined in LeafCAN.h to use Barbouri's board.
That sets it up to use

ENCA = PC0
ENCB = PC1
ENCbtn = PC2

 

[GlennD]

Thanks, I will try that. His board is really tiny!

 

[GlennD]

That did it. I should have read the comments.

 

[lincomatic]

BTW, I uploaded a fix to github this morning to fix the underflow bug on the DTE screen when the distance goes below zero.

You soldered the SMT boards yourself?

 

[GlennD]

Yes, since I retired I no longer have access to SMD tools so I hand soldered the boards. They are a little messy but they work.

The first one was for an OLED display since I do not have any surface mount transistors and pots yet.

This is a photo of the second one. It will be for a normal LCD display so it is waiting on parts. The SMD crystal was the hardest thing to mount.

 

[GlennD]

BTW, I uploaded a fix to github this morning to fix the underflow bug on the DTE screen when the distance goes below zero.

You soldered the SMT boards yourself?

Yes, I have seen that error but since I switch to very low battery when the battery lady wakes up it did not matter.

 

[GlennD]

Lincomatic, Would you possibly have a schematic of Barbouri's unit? I emailed him but he said that he was moving and the files are not accessible.

I figured out everything except he has a diode pack or zener pack connected the the can buss. Since your design does not have this I just ignored it.

 

[Barbouri]

Lincomatic, Would you possibly have a schematic of Barbouri's unit? I emailed him but he said that he was moving and the files are not accessible.

I figured out everything except he has a diode pack or zener pack connected the the can buss. Since your design does not have this I just ignored it.

Hi Glenn,
Here is a link to Google Drive location for the files CANMonitor_v2oled03
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0rniwc6c992Q1M0enNHOXdGN3M&usp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Greg C.
Barbouri

 

[GlennD]

Lincomatic, Would you possibly have a schematic of Barbouri's unit? I emailed him but he said that he was moving and the files are not accessible.

I figured out everything except he has a diode pack or zener pack connected the the can buss. Since your design does not have this I just ignored it.

Hi Glenn,
Here is a link to Google Drive location for the files CANMonitor_v2oled03
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0rniwc6c992Q1M0enNHOXdGN3M&usp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Greg C.
Barbouri

Great, I got the file.

Thanks, Greg

 

[lincomatic]

Yes, since I retired I no longer have access to SMD tools so I hand soldered the boards. They are a little messy but they work.

The first one was for an OLED display since I do not have any surface mount transistors and pots yet.

This is a photo of the second one. It will be for a normal LCD display so it is waiting on parts. The SMD crystal was the hardest thing to mount.

[snip]

Wow, impressive hand soldering job!

BTW, let me know if you still get relay clicking w/ the latest LeafCAN firmware from github. I have never been able to get my car to click, even after Nissan upgraded it to the latest onboard firmware.