LEAF Collision Experiences

[RonDawg]

I'm also glad to hear the OP, and the other member who totaled his 2013, were able to walk away from their crashes.

I never got the dollar amount of the repair estimate, but USAA says the market value of my car was $20,780 and that it is totaled. I assume that I am going to owe something more for the early termination of the lease. I hope I save enough on the lower payments for a 2013 to make up for that.

If this is a NMAC lease, there should already be built-in gap insurance coverage, as long as you were current on your lease payments, and that you had collision coverage in accordance with NMAC's stipulations.

In other words, the only thing you should owe is your collision deductible, if any, and that's only if you were at fault or the other party's insurance has not yet paid out the claim to your insurance company.

 

[Klayfish]

If I can be of any help, please let me know. I work in auto insurance claims, and have for 15 years. Crashes are my life.

 

[N1ghtrider]

Thanks Ron and Klay. I was worried that they were going to hit me with early termination charges and so on. I will keep you posted on how I fare with NMAC.

 

[spike09]

I was broadsided at an intersection by a much larger SUV today. The SUV hit me at full speed on the left front fender, crushing the body panel, breaking the axle and knocking the top of the wheel to a 45 degree angle inward. The airbags deployed, but I still hit the inside of the left door hard with my shoulder. I will follow-up with repair estimates and concealed damage reports, etc.

Which intersection was it? Was it raining?

 

[OPECsux]

Glad to hear the car kept you protected from an SUV in a crash, how did the battery do in the wreck?

 

[N1ghtrider]

The crash was at the intersection of Poinciana and Douglas Road. I was going east on Poinciana and had the stop sign. I saw the SUV coming from my left (southbound) with its right turn signal on. The only place to turn would have been to go west on Poinciana, so I thought I had a clear chance to go across the intersection. The other driver did not try to stop or avoid me. It was not raining. I have no idea if there was damage to the battery as the car was towed to a fenced lot.

 

[N1ghtrider]

I'm also glad to hear the OP, and the other member who totaled his 2013, were able to walk away from their crashes.

If this is a NMAC lease, there should already be built-in gap insurance coverage, as long as you were current on your lease payments, and that you had collision coverage in accordance with NMAC's stipulations.

In other words, the only thing you should owe is your collision deductible, if any, and that's only if you were at fault or the other party's insurance has not yet paid out the claim to your insurance company.

I cannot find any reference to gap insurance in the lease. It is a NMAC "Signature Lease" with 20 numbered sections. Section 11 is "Optional Insurance Coverage and Warranties," but none of those available options appear to include Gap insurance. I did not select any optional coverages. Where would I look for such coverage in this lease?

 

[mwalsh]

The takeaway to me is...don't trust the dumbass SUV driver that has no awareness of what's going on either outside or inside his vehicle.

 

[RonDawg]

If this is a NMAC lease, there should already be built-in gap insurance coverage, as long as you were current on your lease payments, and that you had collision coverage in accordance with NMAC's stipulations.

In other words, the only thing you should owe is your collision deductible, if any, and that's only if you were at fault or the other party's insurance has not yet paid out the claim to your insurance company.

I cannot find any reference to gap insurance in the lease. It is a NMAC "Signature Lease" with 20 numbered sections. Section 11 is "Optional Insurance Coverage and Warranties," but none of those available options appear to include Gap insurance. I did not select any optional coverages. Where would I look for such coverage in this lease?

You will not find the words "gap insurance" on your contract. But you should find on yours [at least it was on my NMAC lease contract (form NILT/N 3001-CA 7/12 lower left back page)], the following clause under Item 26: Damage, Loss, or Potential Loss of This Vehicle:

You are responsible for the risk of loss, damage, or destruction of this Vehicle during the lease term and until you return this Vehicle to us as required above. If this Vehicle is damaged or destroyed in an accident or other occurrence or confiscated by any governmental authority or is stolen, abandoned, or subject to potential loss, you will immediately notify us and we may terminate this Lease pursuant to the terms of this Lease. If this Vehicle is stolen (and not recovered) or destroyed, we will accept insurance loss proceeds in full satisfaction of your early termination liability if you are in compliance with the following: 1) your insurance obligations under this Lease are satisfied; 2) your policy covers the casualty and you have paid the deductible required by the policy; and 3) your Lease is not in default.

The following is part of the same paragraph, but I broke it off separately because it underscores the importance why, at least with NMAC leases, you want to put as little towards drive-away costs as possible:

If the insurance loss proceeds exceed your early termination obligations, then the excess will not be refunded to you. Any capitalized cost reduction made by you will not be refunded in the event of a total loss. If the Vehicle is a total loss, there is no Purchase Option, and you have no right to retain the Vehicle for salvage.

The rest of that section talks about damage that does not result in a total loss and what is and is not acceptable to NMAC. I have left that part out since it has nothing to do with total loss vehicles.

 

[N1ghtrider]

Thanks, Ron. My file copy of the lease did not have the pages after paragraph 20, but I found another copy with that language. That is a relief.

 

[RonDawg]

I take it from your most recent post that you experienced no problems in transitioning into a replacement Leaf?

 

[N1ghtrider]

I take it from your most recent post that you experienced no problems in transitioning into a replacement Leaf?

I leased the 2013 SL for $125 a month less than I was paying for the 2012 SV, but I am disappointed with the mileage over the first 200 miles. On the same commute that I always averaged 5.2 m/Kwh I am getting 4.8 or 4.9 on the new LEAF. I am trying to figure out whether it helps or hurts to use the "B" shift mode (which is supposed to increase regeneration on deceleration), but on this flat Florida landscape I do not notice an appreciable difference.

 

[RonDawg]

Keep in mind that the differences in economy can be attributed to two things:

1. New car means new tires, which have greatest rolling resistance when new;
2. You have the 2013 SL which uses 17 inch rims and Michelin tires, which might also have greater rolling resistance than the Bridgestone Ecopias.

 

[RegGuheert]

Keep in mind that the differences in economy can be attributed to two things:

1. New car means new tires, which have greatest rolling resistance when new;
2. You have the 2013 SL which uses 17 inch rims and Michelin tires, which might also have greater rolling resistance than the Bridgestone Ecopias.

Good points!

Also note that the 17" rims/tires also have a 2.4% larger diameter and a higher moment of inertia. Just the diameter by itself should account for about 1/2 the difference you are seeing.

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

I'm also glad to hear the OP, and the other member who totaled his 2013, were able to walk away from their crashes.

If this is a NMAC lease, there should already be built-in gap insurance coverage, as long as you were current on your lease payments, and that you had collision coverage in accordance with NMAC's stipulations.

In other words, the only thing you should owe is your collision deductible, if any, and that's only if you were at fault or the other party's insurance has not yet paid out the claim to your insurance company.

I cannot find any reference to gap insurance in the lease. It is a NMAC "Signature Lease" with 20 numbered sections. Section 11 is "Optional Insurance Coverage and Warranties," but none of those available options appear to include Gap insurance. I did not select any optional coverages. Where would I look for such coverage in this lease?

i think you are seeing small terminology differences in various state laws concerning the coverage.

mine was different (according to my insurance company) in that if its my fault, the deductible i was still responsible for but Nissan paid any differences between pay out and market value. if not my fault, then I am not out of pocket.

In the event the pay off of the lease is less than market value, I get that back after settlement with other insurance company. This part does not seem to be true in all states. So best bet; contact YOUR agent for details

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Keep in mind that the differences in economy can be attributed to two things:

1. New car means new tires, which have greatest rolling resistance when new;
2. You have the 2013 SL which uses 17 inch rims and Michelin tires, which might also have greater rolling resistance than the Bridgestone Ecopias.

these two are definite possibilities but I would look at differences in SW and MY first.

#2 is likely to be a factor. the Ecopias were picked because they offer the most efficiency (along with least customer satisfaction)

 

[Klayfish]

Keep in mind that the differences in economy can be attributed to two things:

1. New car means new tires, which have greatest rolling resistance when new;
2. You have the 2013 SL which uses 17 inch rims and Michelin tires, which might also have greater rolling resistance than the Bridgestone Ecopias.

Well, there go my plans of throwing some 22's on that bad boy... :lol:

I have an SL, but only have roughly 100 miles on it so far. When I was looking at them, I noticed it came with larger rims and figured it may play a small role, as well as the tires. However, I doubt it'll be enough of a difference to make it an issue for me. I could always try adding a few psi to the tires I guess, so long as I don't go too far and create other overinflation issues.

 

[LEAFfan]

I take it from your most recent post that you experienced no problems in transitioning into a replacement Leaf?

I leased the 2013 SL for $125 a month less than I was paying for the 2012 SV, but I am disappointed with the mileage over the first 200 miles. On the same commute that I always averaged 5.2 m/Kwh I am getting 4.8 or 4.9 on the new LEAF. I am trying to figure out whether it helps or hurts to use the "B" shift mode (which is supposed to increase regeneration on deceleration), but on this flat Florida landscape I do not notice an appreciable difference.

It's absolutely not B mode. IF you use/d A/C, that's the culprit.

 

[surfingslovak]

I leased the 2013 SL for $125 a month less than I was paying for the 2012 SV, but I am disappointed with the mileage over the first 200 miles.

Good to hear! How do you like the 2013 MY, aside from lower energy economy?

 

[DaveEV]

Keep in mind that the differences in economy can be attributed to two things:

1. New car means new tires, which have greatest rolling resistance when new;
2. You have the 2013 SL which uses 17 inch rims and Michelin tires, which might also have greater rolling resistance than the Bridgestone Ecopias.

Well, there go my plans of throwing some 22's on that bad boy... :lol:

I have an SL, but only have roughly 100 miles on it so far. When I was looking at them, I noticed it came with larger rims and figured it may play a small role, as well as the tires. However, I doubt it'll be enough of a difference to make it an issue for me. I could always try adding a few psi to the tires I guess, so long as I don't go too far and create other overinflation issues.

You can safely go up to the max on the sidewall of the tire without any issues, but most find that you quickly get to the point of diminishing returns once you get to 40 psi+.

I did see that Tirerack.com lists a large number 15" wheels that fit the LEAF now with the lightest one coming in at 14 lbs (there is a ~14 lb 16 and 17" wheel but they cost twice as much). It also appears that the 15" tires (195/65/15) tend to be 2-3 lbs lighter than the OEM tires, too, so you could easily save 5-6 lbs/corner which would be pretty substantial.