Just got a 2013 Leaf that only has 4 bars left on the battery, how long will the battery last?

[Klausstein]

Check the balance when the SOC is low to see how the cells are.

BTW, please keep us updated with LS screen shots. When your Hx gets below a certain point, it may trigger a dashboard warning and set a trouble code. This probably will not affect the usability.

How many regen bubbles can you get?

Here’s a screenshot of when the Leaf was at 19% battery

 

[Tony 240]

To what does the 13 and 14 bars refer?

The Bars are the amount the battery is charged up to, mine was always 13 when fully charged it is now 14, but that really does not tell you the condition of the battery

 

[Dooglas]

The Bars are the amount the battery is charged up to, mine was always 13 when fully charged it is now 14, but that really does not tell you the condition of the battery

Hmmm, still puzzled. I have owned 3 LEAFs. The first 2 showed the charge as bars on a curve on the right side of the display. At full capacity each displayed 12 bars in total and up to 12 bars that appeared next to them indicating state of charge. My current SL+ displays a horizontal line labeled 0 at the left and 1 at the right on a separate display panel. Again there are 12 bars total. These are also the bars refered to in the Nissan battery capacity warranty. All of them also displayed charge as a percentage from zero to 100%. What model LEAF do you own and how does it display reduced capacity?

 

[Tony 240]

Hmmm, still puzzled. I have owned 3 LEAFs. The first 2 showed the charge as bars on a curve on the right side of the display. At full capacity each displayed 12 bars in total and up to 12 bars that appeared next to them indicating state of charge. My current SL+ displays a horizontal line labeled 0 at the left and 1 at the right on a separate display panel. Again there are 12 bars total. These are also the bars refered to in the Nissan battery capacity warranty. All of them also displayed charge as a percentage from zero to 100%. What model LEAF do you own and how does it display reduced capacity?

Sorry I can't count I should have said 11 bars normally and has increased to 12

 

[Drew21]

You have 8 State Of Health bars (the small ones to the right). Those are the critical ones everyone here is always talking about.

The longer bars measure the current charge in the battery (i.e., how much "gas" is in the tank). 12 long bars means you have full charge.

I don't know why your car would have only charged to 11 bars and now does the full 12. Perhaps you previously had 9 SOH bars and just dropped to 8, which makes it appear like you gained an extra charge bar.

 

[Tony 240]

You have 8 State Of Health bars (the small ones to the right). Those are the critical ones everyone here is always talking about.

The longer bars measure the current charge in the battery (i.e., how much "gas" is in the tank). 12 long bars means you have full charge.

I don't know why your car would have only charged to 11 bars and now does the full 12. Perhaps you previously had 9 SOH bars and just dropped to 8, which makes it appear like you gained an extra charge bar.

Thanks that maybe is what happened that I lost a bar

 

[cwiggy]

Check your settings. My monster leaf is set up to only charge to 80%. The 2013's could do that.

 

[Staque]

I have a 4-bar leaf. It gets LBW at 45%. We drive it 20-30 miles a day. No problems. (In the winter we leave it home if the trip is more than 15 miles.)

 

[Klausstein]

I have a 4-bar leaf. It gets LBW at 45%. We drive it 20-30 miles a day. No problems. (In the winter we leave it home if the trip is more than 15 miles.)

What is LBW? I'm new to the Leaf/EV world and am still learning all the acronyms. Glad to hear I'm not the only 4 bar Leaf owner out there.

 

[BillAinCT]

What is LBW?

Low (traction) battery warning.

 

[Klausstein]

Low (traction) battery warning.

Got it. Mine comes on about there too

 

[BullDog]

As condition of the vehicle is good and you live in Portland, you may want to talk to EV Rides about a possible battery exchange/upgrade down the road. They have a good reputation for changing out depleted battery packs with used batteries in better condition.

Living in the Seattle area, I checked out their proposed charge for replacing the batteries in my 2012 Leaf SL (had eight battery bars left so no urgent need to replace the batteries). They quoted me well north of $10,000 (closer to $13,000) for a refurbished battery pack that likely wouldn't hold much more charge than an OEM battery with nine or ten battery bars remaining. Since I paid little more than $5,000 for the car in March of 2012, I determined to run that car into the ground, toss it (hopefully sell it for what I can get) and pick up a later, but still old model Leaf for a similar price. Fast forward a year, I had the ability to sell my 2012 Leaf SL for about $4,800. I decided to sell because I found a 2013 Leaf SV with 10,000 fewer miles and, more importantly, eleven remaining battery bars (eleven out of twelve). The price at the dealer was $6,000, but with the new federal 30% used EV tax credit the price to me was only $4,200. With relatively new tires and barely worn brakes, the car was too good of a steal to ignore. I'll be back in the market for another Leaf in three years when, assuming the federal EV tax credit is still in place, I'll be eligible to take advantage of the federal tax credit again. By that time, the 2016 or 2017 models with just a bit longer range will be dirt cheap and I'll ambush the market again. With deals on existing older models so easy to find and the tax credit making the deals even more inviting, I don't see a need to EVER pay for a battery replacement on these vehicles--unless you're just obsessively devoted to recycling. Me? I just treat these older vehicles as throw-aways, intending to use them up and walk away. I might try to get a small market return when I'm done with them just to avoid the fee to dispose of them. The cars are great, very reliable and fun to drive. But with so little invested, I regard them as disposable short commuter commodities.

 

[Klausstein]

Living in the Seattle area, I checked out their proposed charge for replacing the batteries in my 2012 Leaf SL (had eight battery bars left so no urgent need to replace the batteries). They quoted me well north of $10,000 (closer to $13,000) for a refurbished battery pack that likely wouldn't hold much more charge than an OEM battery with nine or ten battery bars remaining. Since I paid little more than $5,000 for the car in March of 2012, I determined to run that car into the ground, toss it (hopefully sell it for what I can get) and pick up a later, but still old model Leaf for a similar price. Fast forward a year, I had the ability to sell my 2012 Leaf SL for about $4,800. I decided to sell because I found a 2013 Leaf SV with 10,000 fewer miles and, more importantly, eleven remaining battery bars (eleven out of twelve). The price at the dealer was $6,000, but with the new federal 30% used EV tax credit the price to me was only $4,200. With relatively new tires and barely worn brakes, the car was too good of a steal to ignore. I'll be back in the market for another Leaf in three years when, assuming the federal EV tax credit is still in place, I'll be eligible to take advantage of the federal tax credit again. By that time, the 2016 or 2017 models with just a bit longer range will be dirt cheap and I'll ambush the market again. With deals on existing older models so easy to find and the tax credit making the deals even more inviting, I don't see a need to EVER pay for a battery replacement on these vehicles--unless you're just obsessively devoted to recycling. Me? I just treat these older vehicles as throw-aways, intending to use them up and walk away. I might try to get a small market return when I'm done with them just to avoid the fee to dispose of them. The cars are great, very reliable and fun to drive. But with so little invested, I regard them as disposable short commuter commodities.

I have reached out to them. I am just trying to get all I can out of this battery. Today some codes indicating I may need to replace sooner rather than later.

 

[Klausstein]

Living in the Seattle area, I checked out their proposed charge for replacing the batteries in my 2012 Leaf SL (had eight battery bars left so no urgent need to replace the batteries). They quoted me well north of $10,000 (closer to $13,000) for a refurbished battery pack that likely wouldn't hold much more charge than an OEM battery with nine or ten battery bars remaining. Since I paid little more than $5,000 for the car in March of 2012, I determined to run that car into the ground, toss it (hopefully sell it for what I can get) and pick up a later, but still old model Leaf for a similar price. Fast forward a year, I had the ability to sell my 2012 Leaf SL for about $4,800. I decided to sell because I found a 2013 Leaf SV with 10,000 fewer miles and, more importantly, eleven remaining battery bars (eleven out of twelve). The price at the dealer was $6,000, but with the new federal 30% used EV tax credit the price to me was only $4,200. With relatively new tires and barely worn brakes, the car was too good of a steal to ignore. I'll be back in the market for another Leaf in three years when, assuming the federal EV tax credit is still in place, I'll be eligible to take advantage of the federal tax credit again. By that time, the 2016 or 2017 models with just a bit longer range will be dirt cheap and I'll ambush the market again. With deals on existing older models so easy to find and the tax credit making the deals even more inviting, I don't see a need to EVER pay for a battery replacement on these vehicles--unless you're just obsessively devoted to recycling. Me? I just treat these older vehicles as throw-aways, intending to use them up and walk away. I might try to get a small market return when I'm done with them just to avoid the fee to dispose of them. The cars are great, very reliable and fun to drive. But with so little invested, I regard them as disposable short commuter commodities.

They will replace the battery down here for less than $5K. Since I already used the tax credit on another car, and I got this one for better than free, I will drive it until it doesn't have the range I need, and have the battery replaced.

 

[Starry guy]

My 2011 Leaf SV with 66,000 miles has 5 bars (2 red, 3 white of 10) left. The GID meter (which I made with Gary Giddings, my best friend) shows 32% left on the original battery. Now with about 24 miles projected range at start, I drive it across town and back for 13 miles round trip with 8 miles projected range left. The projected range on the car display has gradually gone down year by year from 84 miles when new. I plan to drive it for a while longer. I can afford a new EV. I inherited Gary's 2019 Tesla M3 last year. But in the first month some features of the automatic controls for braking repeatedly failed. Tesla repair twice found chewed wiring behind the wheels. The insulation is a soy meal product. This damage is common. Since where I live on edge of large canyon makes hungry rodents control impossible, I sold the car to a friend for Blue Book value. Still undecided about what model to try now.
Good luck with your recent purchase of that Leaf.