ImpactVector
Active member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2013
- Messages
- 41
Sorry hectic day here :/ change that to a 0.
if(state==STATE_C) {
// vehicle requested NON-VENTILATED power - this is our MONEY state
int ctrlBtn_cnt=0;
//-----------Start additional code
ReadyToCharge=ReadyToChargeCheck()
if(!ReadyToCharge){
printClrMsg(F("Vehicle connected waiting to charge."), 1000, 0x1f, 0x3f, 0);
delayinsecs(20);
break;
}
//-----------------end additional code
// commence charging
setRelay(HIGH);
... etc ...
Just woke up to check it, looks like it hit the code but the charger fault light in the car still went offLevi8than said:Okay. Try this:
Code:if(state==STATE_C) { // vehicle requested NON-VENTILATED power - this is our MONEY state int ctrlBtn_cnt=0; //-----------Start additional code ReadyToCharge=ReadyToChargeCheck() if(!ReadyToCharge){ printClrMsg(F("Vehicle connected waiting to charge."), 1000, 0x1f, 0x3f, 0); delayinsecs(20); break; } //-----------------end additional code // commence charging setRelay(HIGH); ... etc ...
ImpactVector said:Just woke up to check it, looks like it hit the code but the charger fault light in the car still went off
ImpactVector said:Just woke up to check it, looks like it hit the code but the charger fault light in the car still went off
pthack said:Here's a question.....
Had a power failure while charging (entire area for 8 hours).....
When I got up in the am, (now with power), the leaf was NOT fully charged. Unplugged and replugged, and it still didn't start charging again.....
Had to POPO (Power-Off,Power-On) the breaker going to the Juicebox to get it to reset and charge again.
Is this expected? Or is the firmware on the Juicebox written allow repowering up (AC cycle) while still plugged into the car. If not, when will this be fixed?
Levi8than said:*Now, I'm answering based on 8.6.5, I haven't looked at older versions of the firmware, but I doubt this is something that would have been missed.pthack said:Here's a question.....
pVcal/=12.; // calibration constant
// now adjust boundaries for top being not 12V
state_A_Vmin=def_state_A_Vmin*pVcal; state_A_Vmax=def_state_A_Vmax*pVcal;
state_B_Vmin=def_state_B_Vmin*pVcal; state_B_Vmax=def_state_B_Vmax*pVcal;
state_C_Vmin=def_state_C_Vmin*pVcal; state_C_Vmax=def_state_C_Vmax*pVcal;
state_D_Vmin=def_state_D_Vmin*pVcal; state_D_Vmax=def_state_D_Vmax*pVcal;
state_E_Vmin=-1.5, state_E_Vmax=1.5;
state_F_Vmin=-14., state_F_Vmax=-10.;
// set default thresholds for pilot signal levels
state_A_Vmin=def_state_A_Vmin; state_A_Vmax=def_state_A_Vmax;
state_B_Vmin=def_state_B_Vmin; state_B_Vmax=def_state_B_Vmax;
state_C_Vmin=def_state_C_Vmin; state_C_Vmax=def_state_C_Vmax;
state_D_Vmin=def_state_D_Vmin; state_D_Vmax=def_state_D_Vmax;
state_E_Vmin=-1.5, state_E_Vmax=1.5;
state_F_Vmin=-14., state_F_Vmax=-10.;
// recalibrate the pilot sensing code. helps fight any possible temperature / aging drifts
// but only do it if it's not too far off - this will prevent recalibration in case the power
// cycles while the JuiceBox is plugged into the car
// note that this will mean that the JuiceBox would not be able to recalibrate if the pilot is more than
// 10% off (unlikely with a precision 12V regulator used and R-R op amp)
if(pVcal>def_state_B_Vmax) {
pVcal/=12.; // calibration constant
// now adjust boundaries for top being not 12V
state_A_Vmin=def_state_A_Vmin*pVcal; state_A_Vmax=def_state_A_Vmax*pVcal;
state_B_Vmin=def_state_B_Vmin*pVcal; state_B_Vmax=def_state_B_Vmax*pVcal;
state_C_Vmin=def_state_C_Vmin*pVcal; state_C_Vmax=def_state_C_Vmax*pVcal;
state_D_Vmin=def_state_D_Vmin*pVcal; state_D_Vmax=def_state_D_Vmax*pVcal;
state_E_Vmin=-1.5, state_E_Vmax=1.5;
state_F_Vmin=-14., state_F_Vmax=-10.;
}
Levi8than said:ImpactVector said:Just woke up to check it, looks like it hit the code but the charger fault light in the car still went off
Is it this? If so it looks like it's a common failure, unrelated to the JuiceBox, and you are not alone.
This thread about your yellow charging light
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=12864" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And this thread blaming the PDM (power distribution module) for your charge issues
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=13194" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
See if you can repro with the stock code, no timer. If you can then see if you repro with a public charger, or take it to the dealership and try to repro in front of them on their charger. I'm guessing you're still under warranty.
Levi8than said:I've got my own charging issue. I don't think it's related to the JuiceBox, but I'll post here anyway just in case somebody else has dealt with it.
While my leaf is charging, wires in my walls buzz. My wife can't hear it, she sleeps just fine, but it bothers me. Clock radios buzz, other random electronics buzz. even the light ballasts buzz.
With everything else off, I can track the path the wires take from my circuit panel to my garage just be following the buzz. If I step outside, it's gone. and the at the circuit box I hear just the subtlest chirp. Of course, flipping the breaker off fixes it.
There are several folks on this thread: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=349233#p349233" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
complaining about noisy charger boards and nissan fixes them. But nobody else on that threads has a 2013. And I would have expected Nissan to fix it by the time 2013's rolled around.
I guess what I need is a second car to plug in and see if it charges just fine. Anybody care to come to south San Jose near Almaden and 85 for a free charge and a sixpack of beer?
For me to try this while the vehicle is charging and actually listen for a difference, I'd need to invite a friend over that can either hear the noise too, or that I'm sure won't electrocute him/herself while turning the pilot pot. My wife doesn't fall into either of these categories.ImpactVector said:Have you tried to change the current limit and see if that changes anything?
ImpactVector said:I have seen that happen frequently when wires are either punctured with nails or if there is a join and a resonant frequency emerges.
All your screws tight on the power panel? Breaker?
joewaters said:I have an issue that troubles me. Background: 13 SL using end timer. JB Deluxe version with LCD. Leviton J1772 30 amp 25ft connector, L6-50 connector (Stove/dryer cord) to #6 X ~8ft to 30a breaker on 100a load center in garage with no other heavy loads( 2 X 15 amp for garage door openers/ lights). LCD stated voltage while charging:208. Issue: Every time I plug in at night with the switch in run mode on the JB, enabling the timer/LCD operation, but not activating its timer option, after the morning charge completion and my daily drive (disconnect and reconnect J1772), I get no callout for the pilot signal. To reset, I must cycle the breaker. I can also switch to prog mode on the JB, which allows the pilot without trouble. I checked with the Schneider EVSE I also have under its start timer and the Leaf end timer and they play nice together. I also checked the lock button on the J1772 to verify function. Everything runs right after cycling the breaker, or repeatably with the switch toggled. All my crimps are done with a crimp tool and soldered after. Maybe I need to drive the 80 miles to my Dad's and borrow his scope to tune this in? It's got fresh out of the box settings now. Forgive me, but I dont have an ftdi cable yet, maybe I'll need one?
I'm not terribly concerned about the calibration, just posted to reinforce a previous poster's observance.ImpactVector said:So the 208 volt problem I have as well. I don't think its major. Just a calibration range.
I use the end timer because I want the car to have just finished charging before I leave in the morning in hopes that a warm battery will improve my commute efficiency and reduce the time spent at 100% SOC. I don't want to calculate backwards everyday for start time when I can just plug and go.So the end timer is always interesting because the documentation sucks that comes with the car. You may know this already but the onboard timer plans to have the car fully charged at the end time. It doesn't start immediately but rather waits until it calculates it can finish and then works backwards.
I guess I wasn't too clear on this, the scenario is that, after properly charging on day 1, I drive my 72+ mile commute, return to charge (end timer still active) and the JB does nothing in the handshake with the car. The car signifies that it is plugged in, but not charging. The 'on-the-timer' sequence on my dash does not run. When the timer should signal to start charging, it has no reference to the JB to start, therefore charging does not occur, and I drive my wife's ICE to work.If you leave your end timer on and run the job does it not charge the car at all?
I've used the end timer on the car for the few months since getting a Schneider EVSE and had no trouble using either the EVSE start timer or the Car's end timer.My personal experience with the onboard charger was bad enough for me not to use it. If you have the premium let it do it rather! (My opinion...but I stated earlier in this thread why I don't like the end timer..
I am sure I will be ordering the cable, but I'll be away from the Leaf for a while on business, so it's on the back burner.Also see the previous comments about a firmware issue on early juice boxes.
The ftdi is very cool if your a tinkerer.
Hope this helps.
Levi8than said:pthack said:Here's a question.....
Had a power failure while charging (entire area for 8 hours).....
When I got up in the am, (now with power), the leaf was NOT fully charged. Unplugged and replugged, and it still didn't start charging again.....
Had to POPO (Power-Off,Power-On) the breaker going to the Juicebox to get it to reset and charge again.
Is this expected? Or is the firmware on the Juicebox written allow repowering up (AC cycle) while still plugged into the car. If not, when will this be fixed?
The JB won't care about the power cycling. When the power goes out, the relay will open. Then when the power comes back up, if the vehicle is attached when the power comes back on, it'll go through its normal init sequence of closing the breaker, testing GFI, then opening the breaker and giving the LEAF a chance to communicate. The leaf shouldn't care about that init sequence, but the openEVSE (https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false folks suggest that cycling the breaker like that without first checking what's connected to the other end is dangerous and shouldn't be done. Instead they first check if there is something attached on the other end, and if it's car that passes the diode check, they jump straight to communicating with the car.
Maybe this section in the code should be reconsidered.
And I've digressed. If the car is connected when the power comes back on it should be given the chance to begin charging. But I'm guessing you are using the Leaf's built-in charger. In that case, when the power came back on, the leaf looked at your charge timer and decide that it wasn't time to charge yet, so it didn't try charging again. I guess this is a pretty good argument for using an RTC + a built-in timer on the charger unit, rather than in the car itself.
Does this sound right?
*Now, I'm answering based on 8.6.5, I haven't looked at older versions of the firmware, but I doubt this is something that would have been missed.
ImpactVector said:Guys- is the case on your job getting warm after an hour of being on?
Mine is probably 30 degrees warmer than the surroundings at 30 amps. That OK? No fire risk?
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