Need help on installing charging station.

New Nissan leaf owner hear, just purchased a 2012 and very excited to own it. The car came with the trickle 120 charger and with how much we drive on certain days that is not charging fast enough. So i just went out and purchased a 240 normal charger. lvl 2. The problem I have is that it is not the one that just goes into a 240 outlet. it needs to be manually wired into the breaker box. I have the space but don't know the exact way to wire it. Online searches just say call an electrician but that isn't in my price range currently. I have some pictures and I was hoping to find someone who has installed one of these before and could help.

Thanks in advance!!




or

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-GLtNnNetyjfnZyclNrenRGaG9abEF4bDdVRUF5LU5DcDlmQU5xNnY4YnJIcE9sRDYwWXM&usp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you don't understand the wiring and have never done any, even an amateur electrician would be better - ask your friends. The EVSE (the actual "charger" is in the car) does not have to be wired to the breaker panel: it should be wired to a junction/outlet box that itself is wired to the breaker panel, via a 240 volt cable. The wiring connection is actually easy, but I don't think any of us want to contribute to you being electrocuted...

Get a 40 amp double (two pole) 240v breaker from hardware store. Snap it in to your main box and turn it off. (assumes this is a 32 amp EVSE or less)

Measure the wire distance. You need 8/2 romex. This has 2 wires of #8 copper and a ground. Get about 10% extra for good measure.

Pull the wire through the wall and studs removing drywall as needed. Do good work, don't make it look jacked up or hacked.

Connect the white and black to the EVSE terminals of same color in the unit as shown in picture 2.
Mark the white wire with red tape at each end to indicate it is hot.
Connect the ground wire to the terminal bus with green wires also shown in picture 2.

Connect the ground to the ground bus in the main panel. Connect white and black to the breaker.
Turn on the breaker, charge the car.

If any doubts call your city inspector. After inspection repair the drywall.

Homeowners permit is required before installing and energizing any electrical equipment. Be prepared to calculate demand load for your home as well as proof of certification of such equipment. Most safety authority organizations provide information on how to do so. If you are in doubt of how to do this, an Electrician is your best friend.

I know the OP has stated that an electrician is not in the budget, but if he (or she) does not know how to do basic electrical work, this is NOT the time to find out how via instructions found on the internet.

Should we take your post to mean you HAVE a 240v outlet already in the right place? If so, this may be a much simpler project as you may be able to use that circuit. Please tell us what kind (precisely, or take a picture) of outlet you have and what size circuit breaker is on it. Is it being used for something else or can it be dedicated to this use. Did you buy the round Aerovironment/Nissan charging station (EVSE) in the pictures you linked to, or something else? If you let us know everything you can about your situation, we can try to advise you.

I will echo what others have been saying, however. The 240v 30a that the typical EVSE draws is bigger than any continuous load you likely to have in your home. Don't be a penny-wise fool and end up burning down your house because you didn't know what you were doing. If you have any doubts about your ability to do this, get a professional electrician.

Connect the white and black to the EVSE terminals of same color in the unit as shown in picture 2.
Connect the ground wire to the terminal bus with green wires also shown in picture 2.

Connect the ground to the ground bus in the main panel. Connect white and black to the breaker.
Turn on the breaker, charge the car.

Click to expand...

"Ask This Old House" made this same error recently, and I don't understand it. Whenever you use a white wire as a Hot wire, you have to wrap both ends with red tape!. White is for neutral, and a neutral wire being used as a second (or first) Hot wire is an invitation to electrocution. I'm not an expert electrician, but I do know this much...

LeftieBiker said:

"Ask This Old House" made this same error recently, and I don't understand it. Whenever you use a white wire as a Hot wire, you have to wrap both ends with red tape!. White is for neutral, and a neutral wire being used as a second (or first) Hot wire is an invitation to electrocution. I'm not an expert electrician, but I do know this much...

Click to expand...

Black works too (and is to code). I use a magic marker and do the entire circumference of the wire for a length of at least 12". I've seen electricians just draw a black stipe on the white wire before, but I'm not personally comfortable with that.

mwalsh said:

LeftieBiker said:

"Ask This Old House" made this same error recently, and I don't understand it. Whenever you use a white wire as a Hot wire, you have to wrap both ends with red tape!. White is for neutral, and a neutral wire being used as a second (or first) Hot wire is an invitation to electrocution. I'm not an expert electrician, but I do know this much...

Click to expand...

Black works too (and is to code). I use a magic marker and do the entire circumference of the wire for a length of at least 12". I've seen electricians just draw a black stipe on the white wire before, but I'm not personally comfortable with that.

Click to expand...

Yes, just buy double the black wire. It's easier anyway. (And depending on what you can find, it might turn out cheaper as well, if you end up having to buy a small roll of it rather than by the foot for your installation.)

smkettner said:

Get a 40 amp double (two pole) 240v breaker from hardware store. Snap it in to your main box and turn it off. (assumes this is a 32 amp EVSE or less)

Measure the wire distance. You need 8/2 romex. This has 2 wires of #8 copper and a ground. Get about 10% extra for good measure.

Pull the wire through the wall and studs removing drywall as needed. Do good work, don't make it look jacked up or hacked.

Connect the white and black to the EVSE terminals of same color in the unit as shown in picture 2.
Mark the white wire with red tape at each end to indicate it is hot.
Connect the ground wire to the terminal bus with green wires also shown in picture 2.

Connect the ground to the ground bus in the main panel. Connect white and black to the breaker.
Turn on the breaker, charge the car.

If any doubts call your city inspector. After inspection repair the drywall.

Click to expand...

You forgot the part where the NEC requires a disconnect switch co-located with hardwired service equipment or a permanent hasp on the circuit breaker that allows a padlock to be installed to lock it in the off position... (the exception is if it is immediately adjacent to the breaker panel)

iluvmacs said:

You forgot the part where the NEC requires a disconnect switch co-located with hardwired service equipment or a permanent hasp on the circuit breaker that allows a padlock to be installed to lock it in the off position...

Click to expand...

On the contrary, the 2011 NEC (in force in California) says:

625.23 Disconnecting Means. For electric vehicle supply equipment rated more than 60 amperes or more than 150 volts to ground, the disconnecting means shall be provided and installed in a readily accessible location. The disconnecting means shall be capable of being locked in the open position.

For EVSEs rated 60 amperes or less and at 150 volts to ground or less, there are no disconnect requirements.

Cheers ,Wayne

Thanks for all the help guys. It will be right next to my breaker panel so that is good. I'll post on here when I get it installed.

wwhitney said:

iluvmacs said:

You forgot the part where the NEC requires a disconnect switch co-located with hardwired service equipment or a permanent hasp on the circuit breaker that allows a padlock to be installed to lock it in the off position...

Click to expand...

On the contrary, the 2011 NEC (in force in California) says:

625.23 Disconnecting Means. For electric vehicle supply equipment rated more than 60 amperes or more than 150 volts to ground, the disconnecting means shall be provided and installed in a readily accessible location. The disconnecting means shall be capable of being locked in the open position.

For EVSEs rated 60 amperes or less and at 150 volts to ground or less, there are no disconnect requirements.

Cheers ,Wayne

Click to expand...

Wayne, I think you are focusing on the "60 amperes or less" part and forgot to note the "150 volts to ground or less" part. The latter appears to mean that ALL L2 EVSE's require this disconnect, because L2 means 240 volts nominally.

My municipality required this disconnect for my L2 installation.

RonDawg said:

wwhitney said:

iluvmacs said:

You forgot the part where the NEC requires a disconnect switch co-located with hardwired service equipment or a permanent hasp on the circuit breaker that allows a padlock to be installed to lock it in the off position...

Click to expand...

On the contrary, the 2011 NEC (in force in California) says:

625.23 Disconnecting Means. For electric vehicle supply equipment rated more than 60 amperes or more than 150 volts to ground, the disconnecting means shall be provided and installed in a readily accessible location. The disconnecting means shall be capable of being locked in the open position.

For EVSEs rated 60 amperes or less and at 150 volts to ground or less, there are no disconnect requirements.

Cheers ,Wayne

Click to expand...

Wayne, I think you are focusing on the "60 amperes or less" part and forgot to note the "150 volts to ground or less" part. The latter appears to mean that ALL L2 EVSE's require this disconnect, because L2 means 240 volts nominally.

My municipality required this disconnect for my L2 installation.

Click to expand...

In Canada CEC 2012, 22 edition in force until later this year Section 86, Rule 86-304, Sub-rule (1) A separate disconnecting means shall be provided for each installation of electric vehicle charging equipment rated at 60A or more, or more than 150 volts to ground. Sub rule (2) explains where that disconnect is located and about the locking etc. ( Our codes as of late are getting remarkably close to the NEC). LET IT BE KNOWN: that on a 120/240v system the maximum voltage to ground is 120v (give or take) and that 240v is measured between the ungrounded conductors (line 1 and line 2), USA included. Therefore no disconnect required. The max a Leaf charger can draw would be 27.5 A based at 6600 watts@240v. Ron: If your local code is to conform with the NEC, ( and not in addition to ie: Municipal addendum), I would have argued with the inspector... and won.

RonDawg said:

Wayne, I think you are focusing on the "60 amperes or less" part and forgot to note the "150 volts to ground or less" part. The latter appears to mean that ALL L2 EVSE's require this disconnect, because L2 means 240 volts nominally.

My municipality required this disconnect for my L2 installation.

Click to expand...

Check your meter again between the hot and ground. You will find just 120 volts.

Thank you, I stand corrected.

Your municipality would not be the first to get this wrong. Or there could have been additional local rules or conditions.

smkettner said:

Your municipality would not be the first to get this wrong. Or there could have been additional local rules or conditions.

Click to expand...

It's most likely their additional rule.

Even if the disconnect is not required by the NEC, nor the local AHJ, a disconnect is still a good thing. It doesn't hurt to have it. For $10-$12 you can buy a 60a rated disconnect intended for use on outside A/C systems. It will have a switch (such as the Square D) or a pull out, and can be mounted right next to or below your EVSE and the box will be weather proof so it can be installed outside. If the EVSE is mounted near the breaker panel, such as mine, then you don't need one, but if the breaker panel is in the basement, or on the other end of the house from the EVSE, then having a disconnect is a good idea. It will save you a lot of walking or running if you need to shut off power to the EVSE.

Charles

Personally I think there is still room for interpretation in the NEC. If an inspector considers an EVSE to be an appliance (not a stretch in my mind), it's still required by 422.31(B) to have a local disconnect. As CharlesinGA says, it's a really inexpensive and easy thing to do. Even simpler is the lockable hasp on the breaker (I used this method in a friend's installation who didn't want an ugly disconnect box on the wall), but that doesn't give you the convenience/safety factor of a local disconnect if your breaker box is far away.