Something people NEED to understand about EVSEUpgrade for 2015-2017....

[AntronX]

LOL, you're welcome for all the confusion I caused you guys.

When I am charging my Leaf on 120V 12A stock plug Leafspy reports ~1.1 kW DC actually flowing into the battery. Yes, 12A * 120V = 1440W AC, but due to charger losses + waterpump, contactors and electronics load, only ~1.1 kW DC makes in into the battery for ~76% overall charging system efficiency on 120V.

On 240V 12A modified stock EVSE I was getting 2.4 kWh DC into the battery as per Leafspy. That is ~83% efficiency now, much better.

On full speed 240V 16A Leafspy reports ~ 3.3 kWh DC into the battery, or ~86% total AC - DC efficiency.

 

[EVDRIVER]

Nope, 3x faster is correct. Original is 12A 120V = ~1.1kW DC into the battery. Modded is 16A 240V = ~3.3kW DC.

16A @ 240V is 3.8kw not 3.3kw.

He was derating the 3.8 kW AC to 3.3 kW DC
A similar approach with 120V and 16A would be 0.120*16*0.85 = 1.632 kW DC.

I think.
Or is the 16A derated to 12A continuous ?
In that case the 120V solution gives 0.12*12*0.85 = 1.224 kW DC

I'm new at this so take my post with a big dose of salt.

Nothing is derated. A cable output is what it is. Only outlets are derated, 20A outlet derated to 16A continuous.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Ebusbar 16a @ both 120v and 240v $299 shipped from Amazon. 18' cable
VegasBrad 16a @ both 120v and 240v $299 + $18 shipping to continental US. 22.5' cable
Go Cable by TonyWilliams 16a @ 240v only, $299 not sure about shipping and currently may be on sale for $249. 25' cable
EVSEupgrade.com 16a @ 240v 12a @ 120v $287 + $25?? shipping both ways. Whatever the cord length of the OEM Leaf EVSE is.


So if you are OK with 16a you have several choices close to $300 or the price of the EVSEupgrade option. If you want to sell your OEM cable to defray costs I'd strongly suggest one that also worked on 120v so you'd have that in case of emergencies, if you plan on still carrying around the OEM cable then maybe 120v operation wouldn't be a concern.
Note for all EVSEs listed you'd either need to purchase a ~$25 adapter cable to be able to use on 120v or in the case of the Ebusbar from Amazo

Good summary. First, I want to state that my belief is that the EVSEupgrade is a high quality base product (Panasonic) with a high quality modification to 120-208-240 volt operation. Yes, it could have an L6-20P like our Go-Cable, but that's a teeny tiny issue. They can't do squat about smaller, cheaper wires in the 2015 and newer EVSE.

Go-Cable has adaptors for NEMA 14-50P (RV parks) and NEMA 10-30P (old dryers). The NEMA 14-50P can be easily and safely modified to work with ALL of the NEMA 14 series outlets, including newer dryers, stoves, ovens, etc.

With Go-Cable, I recommend keeping the stock Nissan Panasonic cable in the trunk for 120 volts (to be used in only the most dire emergency). Then, use a Go-Cable to plug into most typical 240 volt outlets when you really want to get charged. Honestly, it's hard to beat the whole package.

Go-Cable will charge any 16 amp vehicle at full speed:

Nissan Leaf (2011-2012), Chevy Volt, Chevy Spark EV, Toyota Prius Plug-In, Ford C-Max Energy, Ford Fusion Energy, ZERO motorcycle (2015 and newer with J1772), Brammo motorcycle, Smart Electric Drive, Ford C-max Energi, Karma Fisker, Mitsubishi iMiev, Cadillac ELR, Porshe Cayenne S-E, Porsche Panamera S-E, Honda Accord Plug-in.

 

[SageBrush]

16A @ 240V is 3.8kw not 3.3kw.

He was derating the 3.8 kW AC to 3.3 kW DC
A similar approach with 120V and 16A would be 0.120*16*0.85 = 1.632 kW DC.

I think.
Or is the 16A derated to 12A continuous ?
In that case the 120V solution gives 0.12*12*0.85 = 1.224 kW DC

I'm new at this so take my post with a big dose of salt.

Nothing is derated. A cable output is what it is. Only outlets are derated, 20A outlet derated to 16A continuous.

I see -- then I used the term 'derate' incorrectly. I was thinking of pvWatts use of the term when they consider the energy losses that accrue from panel to grid output. So instead I'll say that your 3.8 kW number is before the charger while he was estimating power after the AC conversion to DC.

 

[QueenBee]

...I had big plans for some extended travel with my 2016 Leaf and at this point, I will be limited to 16A charging. No real other solutions that I can figure out. At least ones that are affordable.

Amazon has ClipperCreek HCS-40P - 32 amp portable EVSE for $589. I don't see anything cheaper than that. You can try make your own OpenEVSE kit for slightly, but not much cheaper.

This is indeed what I should have bought. I now that I will be driving EVs for the rest of my life, a robust portable unit with some future "headroom" for less than $300 more than the upgrade.

Think of it this way:

$589 = 2 units, one original Nissan and one new ClipperCreek HCS-40P 32A

$320 approx. = 1 unit, now altered so that Nissan would never warranty it and some buyers might be skeptical, tops out at 16A

In fact the "bright idea" might be for 2015-2017 owners to sell their original portable EVSE on ebay to someone who needs one (lost, stolen unit from lease car) for $250 or so, and use the proceeds to fund the ClipperCreek........

I'd highly recommend keeping your 120 volt EVSE if you are going to buy a "portable" 240 volt only EVSE like the HCS-40 as always having 120 volt charging available comes in handy. Have you seen a HCS-40 in person? They are pretty big so I wouldn't really call them portable. I also think it's missing an important feature, adjustable pilot as not every 240 volt circuit is going to support the full amperage your car can draw.

The real solution the your problem is the JESLA but it's not cheap. http://shop.quickchargepower.com/JESLA-is-THE-40-amp-J1772-portable-charging-solution-JESLA.htm

 

[jjeff]

The thing I don't like about the ClipperCreek models is their total lack of flexibility, they are basically a single use device. They don't have adjustable amperage and only work on 240v, no 120v option. Personally I want flexibility with an EVSE, the ability to decrease the current if I'm at a outlet that dictates it, I also want to be able to use 120v if it's the only option available to me, without carrying around a second EVSE.
Now if you have a hardwired application or only plan on using your EVSE in one area, the ClipperCreek models seem to be a quality built product and should serve you well, I just want more flexibility than they offer so they aren't for me
Thats where the EVSEUpgrade is nice, don't get me wrong I'd really want the ability to charge to at least 20a(I would NOT be happy with the current model's 16a limit) and would really prefer 30a but I know getting 30a using the existing 12g wire isn't a possibility, so I can live with that limitation but when your talking only 16a then I'd have lots of other options in the sub $300 range and probably wouldn't have upgraded my OEM EVSE.

 

[RockyNv]

Could those who upgraded their old higher capacity EVSE and bought a 2015 or newer Leaf just pass on the new lower capacity charger with the old car and keep the upgraded older higher capacity one?

 

[armelwani]

I did just that. I had an EVSE Upgrade for my 2011 Leaf, and when I purchased my 2016 SL I asked the dealer if I could just swap the EVSE that comes with the 2016 with my upgraded one from my 2011 and they immediately went out to the cars and switched them out for me.