So, owners what range are you getting ?
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DougWantsALeaf
Well-known member
https://youtu.be/AsKtclEN6xA
Around 10 minutes, it looks like Nissan used the 5 cycle test for the 24-40kWh battery Leafs, but the 2 cycle for the E+ 62 battery.
Any idea why?
Around 10 minutes, it looks like Nissan used the 5 cycle test for the 24-40kWh battery Leafs, but the 2 cycle for the E+ 62 battery.
Any idea why?
DougWantsALeaf said:
I think the article is largely full of it. My Leaf's GOM is always grossly wrong and it's totally obvious. In the Tesla, the GOM is a lot less grossly wrong. I don't notice any huge estimation adjustment at 50% SOC. If the Tesla is lying, it spreads the correction out pretty subtly over the entire trip.
OTOH, given how fluidily the Tesla firnware changes and automagically updates over the air, the article could have been right at one time or on some particular person's vehicle.
SalisburySam
Well-known member
After the pitiful range experience with our 2012 first gen LEAF and its so aptly-named GOM, any other vehicle’s range accuracy is a blessing. My 2018 Model 3, originally sold as a 310-mile vehicle, now purports to deliver a 296-mile range. Actual driving the car both locally for errands and on multi-thousand-mile trips shows the GOM quite accurate. We’ve been pleased to find the same with our 2023 Hyundai Ioniq5 albeit this AWD vehicle has a marketed range of 256 miles vs. the RWD version’s 303 miles.DougWantsALeaf said:
Regardless of range initially stated, the GOM on both vehicles seems to work well, regardless of weather. Obviously cold temperatures, rain, snow, wild elevation changes, winds, speed, driving aggressiveness all adversely affect expected range. Even so, the GOMs show pretty accurately what the range will be during any trip we’ve taken in either car. And then there’s our 2012 LEAF…
jamesa9791
New member
I have a 2013 Nissan Leaf SV with 65,000 miles. I get about 55 miles of range due to the degraded battery. Back when it had 50,000 miles on the odometer, it could do about 70 miles.
Range decreases significantly if I drive faster than 65 mph, or if I use my roof rack to carry a mountain bike. At 70 mph with the bike on top, I get 35-40 miles of range.
Range decreases significantly if I drive faster than 65 mph, or if I use my roof rack to carry a mountain bike. At 70 mph with the bike on top, I get 35-40 miles of range.
BobLerwill
Member
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I’ve had my 39k Accenta for a year now and I am very pleased with the 180mile estimated range. I know that this is only an estimate, but I also get a long term average 4.5 miles/kWh; which ties in with that estimate. That average was last reset in February, so it is a good combination of Summer & Winter. My journeys are a mix of single track mountain roads, rolling windy A roads, city driving and fast dual carriageways.
For the first few months, I used epedal all the time. My mileage was then around 3.7miles/kWh. However realised that the epedal was applying the brakes without me knowing it. As soon as I stopped using the epedal, my mileage shot up to its current level.
I think the Leaf is a brilliant car, but I can’t understand why Nissan recommend using the epedal for increased efficiency. Much better to use a combination of D and B. I don’t think the ECO mode makes much difference.
For the first few months, I used epedal all the time. My mileage was then around 3.7miles/kWh. However realised that the epedal was applying the brakes without me knowing it. As soon as I stopped using the epedal, my mileage shot up to its current level.
I think the Leaf is a brilliant car, but I can’t understand why Nissan recommend using the epedal for increased efficiency. Much better to use a combination of D and B. I don’t think the ECO mode makes much difference.
2015 SV with only 27273 miles; 1 bar gone and SOH at 83.89% according to LeafSpy.
GOM said 90 but more like 70 miles range.
GOM said 90 but more like 70 miles range.
k9spud said:
Update: during the hottest months of this past summer, my monthly averages dropped down to 5.1 mi/kWh. I started carrying around 4x or 5x 1L frozen water bottles instead of 3x. A/C always on, but still too hot, so I took jjeff's idea and started putting one bottle behind my back. Not the most comfortable thing in the world, but did help alleviate sweaty back syndrome. Maybe next year I'll try making a more comfortably shaped frozen water pouch.
Temperatures in AZ have finally started falling, so occassionally on my return trip I haven't needed to turn on the A/C at all. I hit a record return trip efficiency of 8.1 mi/kWh for the first (and only) time ever. I think I hit a super sweet spot in ambient temperature that night -- not hot enough to need any A/C beyond frozen water bottles, and not cool enough to increase outside air density yet.
This month's average so far has been 5.5 mi/kWh. Besides ideal temperatures, I attribute increased efficiency to experimenting with turning off long life mode and charging up to nearly 100% just before leaving. Prior months, I was strictly only charging to 80% SOC since it was so hot. Too bad the car can't dynamically add extra cells in series to keep the traction voltage up near maximum all the time.
DougWantsALeaf
Well-known member
That is some pretty awesome efficiency.
While uncomfortable, hot humid weather does amazing things for higher speed efficiency.
Last later summer I had a stretch with the car at 70mph between Chicago and Milwaukee nominal wind with the car averaging 5 miles/kWh. I would love if that was normal efficiency at that speed.
Keep up the posts.
While uncomfortable, hot humid weather does amazing things for higher speed efficiency.
Last later summer I had a stretch with the car at 70mph between Chicago and Milwaukee nominal wind with the car averaging 5 miles/kWh. I would love if that was normal efficiency at that speed.
Keep up the posts.
November + December: closed out the year with 5.4mi/kWh average. Haven't had to use heat or A/C at all. Did use the window defrost a couple times briefly.
January so far my average is 5.7mi/kWh.
One new strategy I've tried is to be really careful not to burn excess energy during the beginning of my commute. My thinking being that if I can avoid dropping to a lower traction battery voltage during the beginning of my trip, I'll get the benefit of a higher cruising efficiency during the rest of my trip.
I've noticed it seems like hauling extra weight in my car results in higher efficiency trips. Counter intuitive, but it seems to happen every time. The extra mass stores kinetic energy, and this makes it possible to coast and regenerate for longer distances. In solar and wind energy capture, they have this thing called "Maximum Power Point Tracking." Perhaps in the Leaf, regenerative braking has a maximum power point that is better aligned with the car's regen mapping when I've got extra weight in the car. The downside of extra weight is longer stopping distances if someone does something crazy in front of me. I wish I could remap the car's D-mode regen so that it doesn't go beyond 1 bubble when entering D mode from coasting at high speed -- I suspect that might improve the efficiency without needing extra weight.
January so far my average is 5.7mi/kWh.
One new strategy I've tried is to be really careful not to burn excess energy during the beginning of my commute. My thinking being that if I can avoid dropping to a lower traction battery voltage during the beginning of my trip, I'll get the benefit of a higher cruising efficiency during the rest of my trip.
I've noticed it seems like hauling extra weight in my car results in higher efficiency trips. Counter intuitive, but it seems to happen every time. The extra mass stores kinetic energy, and this makes it possible to coast and regenerate for longer distances. In solar and wind energy capture, they have this thing called "Maximum Power Point Tracking." Perhaps in the Leaf, regenerative braking has a maximum power point that is better aligned with the car's regen mapping when I've got extra weight in the car. The downside of extra weight is longer stopping distances if someone does something crazy in front of me. I wish I could remap the car's D-mode regen so that it doesn't go beyond 1 bubble when entering D mode from coasting at high speed -- I suspect that might improve the efficiency without needing extra weight.
DougWantsALeaf
Well-known member
Are you adding the weight only at the top of a hill? 
My 2019 Leaf (40kWh battery, 17000 miles on the odometer) has 150 miles of range per the GOM At 100% SOC (not my usual SOC!). Leaf shows 4.7 miles/kWh, but that’s averaged over the last 4 years, which might explain some of the difference from the GOM's estimate.
