power window stops working when cold

[nunezj12]

Add me to the list of those with a dead window (driver's side, won't go down). I was also told it was a bad switch. Guess I'll find out this weekend when the part comes in.

 

[kubel]

For the record, this has nothing to do with LEAFs or EVs specifically. I had this complaint on a car back in the 1980s. I'm not saying this isn't an appropriate post for a LEAF forum - it is - just saying that cars have been experiencing extra resistance rolling windows up or down basically since movable windows were introduced.

This isn't just an issue that comes with power windows, it's an issue that comes from manufacturers producing crap. Nissan has no excuse. My last four Ford's never had any power window issues... everything else was crap, but at least the windows rolled up, dammit! :lol:

 

[RegGuheert]

Our driver's side window has stopped going down. That is an annual safety inspection item, so I'll need to get that fixed before I can get the car inspected. It's pretty hard to believe that they are having so much trouble with a basic part. Electric motors do not tend to last long when operated at low voltages. I wonder if the 13.1V versus 14.4V for earlier model vehicles makes a difference here.

 

[essaunders]

My drivers window doesnt work now. My other windows work from the drivers switch (and presumably from their own switches)

Is that consistent behavior with other people who had a drivers window stop working?

 

[RegGuheert]

My drivers window doesnt work now. My other windows work from the drivers switch (and presumably from their own switches)

Is that consistent behavior with other people who had a drivers window stop working?

Yes.

 

[essaunders]

Ok. I think I found the switch online for around $112. I might give my dealer a call to get them to quote the repair.

I had to do the same switch replacement on my subaru...

 

[RegGuheert]

Ok. I think I found the switch online for around $112. I might give my dealer a call to get them to quote the repair.

I had to do the same switch replacement on my subaru...

Ouch!

The switch installation is simple, but please note that there are reports that there were some installation problems at the factory relating to felts that the glass slides in. I think part of the dealer repair is to inspect/replace these felts in case they were originally installed improperly.

 

[MSELeaf]

I had the exact same thing happen. Cold weather hit and driver's side window would not open at all. Went to the dealership and they diagnosed it as a bad switch. However, the mechanic said he just played around with the switch a bit, pressed it down really hard, and that got it working again. It's been working fine in the 2 months since. Funny thing is that they agreed to replace the switch anyway and would call me back when they got it. No calls yet!

 

[Wennfred]

So where exactly are they spraying the Silicone Spray? My drivers side is starting to slow down and I don't want to burn up the Switch.


Fred

 

[knightmb]

For the record, this has nothing to do with LEAFs or EVs specifically. I had this complaint on a car back in the 1980s. I'm not saying this isn't an appropriate post for a LEAF forum - it is - just saying that cars have been experiencing extra resistance rolling windows up or down basically since movable windows were introduced.

Agreed, as someone who has replaced many power windows across all makes and models, power windows getting stuck/burned out is one of those things that happens that people tend to ignore until it breaks.

Case in point, power windows that roll up slowly. Well, it should be looked at right away. If the car is new, the motor is probably fine, the switch might be fine, but the window regulator (the device that actually lifts the glass up and down) might be out of alignment or failing. If the alignment is the issue, stop using the window (leave it in the up position) until you can get someone to check it. Don't just keep using it over and over making the issue worse. It might be as simple as the connecting points from the regulator to the glass needs to be realigned/tighten down. Cold weather does this to all power windows because what happens is, some ice forms on the door/window track and you roll down the window with a loud "crack" as that ice breaks loose. Well it might have been frozen on just one "corner" of your window, so it pulls the alignment out. Do this enough times and the window regulator starts having issues (remember, it is just a plastic pulley and cable like a bicycle brake cable).

If your windows aren't working like they should, stop using them until it is fixed. You would be surprised how easy it is to fix the issue when it is not a wear related problem (good motor, good switch, good window regulator, etc). Certainly not just a Leaf issue, this happens to all vehicles with power windows and has since last century :mrgreen:

 

[lpickup]

Do we have a systemtic problem with the Nissan LEAF power window switch (not motor, as was the original symptom of this and the other thread) in the cold? (somewhat rhetorical question I guess).

• My wife's 2013 LEAF driver's window stopped working a few weeks ago. Finally got it in to the dealer today and it's the switch.
• "Coincidentally", my 2012 LEAF driver's window stopped working about a week after hers. I took mine in earlier this week and it's the switch.
• We were in the midst of a big cold spell (although being in NC, our "cold" is nothing compared to what the northeast had) during that time, and I don't believe in coincidences like this.
• I notice that the posts reporting switch failure to this thread seem to generally be in the winter.
• Neither dealer (we took the cars to two different dealers) had the part in stock. My dealer earlier in the week was able to get one from the local warehouse. Her dealer (today) listed it as 3-5 days backorder. Is there a shortage of these due to simple lack of stock/ineptitude on the part of the warehouse manager, or has there been a huge call for these recently?

Hers is under warranty, but I shelled out $250 for mine. Not too happy about that.

I had one other Nissan back in the 90's and I believe I replaced the power window switch on that 2-3 times during it's life!

Is this a systemic problem with the LEAF (or Nissan's in general) related to cold weather?

 

[knightmb]

It sounds like the switch is the weak point if this is common. The window regulator has an issue (friction somewhere), so the slower movement heats up the motor more. The heat causes more current draw. The increased current draw kills the weakest link, which seems to be just the actual switch itself. Perhaps the switch is only rated for a certain current draw and cold is causing the slower motor to consume more power and the switch just overheats and melts (malfunction) finally.

 

[lpickup]

It sounds like the switch is the weak point if this is common. The window regulator has an issue (friction somewhere), so the slower movement heats up the motor more. The heat causes more current draw. The increased current draw kills the weakest link, which seems to be just the actual switch itself. Perhaps the switch is only rated for a certain current draw and cold is causing the slower motor to consume more power and the switch just overheats and melts (malfunction) finally.

I like that theory. Sounds reasonable.

When my window failed, it's possible that my window was actually frozen (it had been rain/freezing rain in the morning and gotten really cold during the day). When I tried to lower it, it moved every so slightly and then stopped. It actually caused the window to be ever so slightly open and when I was going at highway speeds it was not sealed and sounded/felt like it was going to fly out.

So yes, maybe the switch acted as the "fuse".

 

[Stanton]

I have a very slow passenger window that I'm set to replace this summer (I don't use it much in the winter). They siliconed it last year (didn't have a big affect) but told me it needed a motor replacement; if they had it in stock at the time I would have already replaced it.

 

[Roadburner440]

I hit mine up with some of the silicone spray. Just rolled the windows down, sprayed in the seal tracks, took a red rag and a plastic ruler to clean out gunk, and sprayed a final layer in there at the end. Windows work fantastic now! Was 38 yesterday morning and they didn't slow down or anything. Got quite a bit of what looked like soot, and dirt out with the rag so that might be a problem as well. I thought maybe my 12V was weak, but all seems well now. Guess will just hit them up once every few months or so now to keep them working as best they can.

 

[TimLee]

Do we have a systemtic problem with the Nissan LEAF power window switch (not motor, as was the original symptom of this and the other thread) in the cold? (somewhat rhetorical question I guess).
...
Is this a systemic problem with the LEAF...

There have been some systematic problems with the LEAF windows.
See this link:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17991&hilit=power+window&start=0#p389334" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Most seem to track back to alignment installation issues.
If the alignment slow operation problem isn't corrected eventually the switch will fail.

Silicone spray usually is just a short term poor temporary fix.

 

[Klhoush]

The drivers side window failed to roll up on my new-to-me 2012 SL last week when it was cold. I sprayed the silicone in the tracks and the weather warmed up and it is faster than ever!