Nissan LEAF Light Bulb Mods: LEDs Anyone?

[TEG]

I put some cheap eBay H9 SMD LEDs in the high beam spots and the color temp matches the main lights well.
As expected, they don't offer nearly the light output of the halogen high beams, so they would suck for country road driving, but my LEAF stays in an urban area where my only real need for high beams is to light sideways when trying to read road signs at the side of the road. For that purpose, the LEDs are working OK to light them up when I go slowly and get close.

These ones looked interesting too:
http://www.amazon.com/Bulbs-Pair-Replacement-Light-Bulb/dp/B005N1PFSS" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Oh, the other time I use the high beams is to "flash" someone to remind them that their headlights are off.
In that case, the less brightness of the LEDs is good too as I don't want to night blind someone.
(Plus the LEDs fire up instantly unlike the incandescent / halogen. )

 

[OrientExpress]

Thanks for the guide

LED replacements are not recommended for the Fog-light

How about a HID kit for the fog lights?

No way, the reflector is not optimized for HID, the heat generated in the small enclosure could compromise it, and Fog lights are just that, for use in rainy and foggy weather, not for use as auxiliary lighting.

I recommend Hella Optilux extreme yellow H11 55W bulbs.

The yellow coating enhances the light pattern in inclement weather.

 

[OrientExpress]

Note that, if you are attempting to match the color temperature of the LED low beam headlights, you do not want warm white, you want cool white.

Front Side marker light(in headlight assembly) WLED-WWHP6-TAC (Warm white) $6.95

This LED is behind an amber side reflector lens. Cool white in combination with the Amber lens creates a muddy brown color. 3200K LEDs match the amber lens better and gives a truer amber light.

 

[TomT]

I was referring to the parking light in the head light enclosure, not the turn signal light. That 3200K lamp next to the 5000K headlight really annoyed me.

If one wanted to replace the side marker light, there are also amber LEDS that would work well. Personally, I did not think it was worth the effort...

Note that, if you are attempting to match the color temperature of the LED low beam headlights, you do not want warm white, you want cool white.

Front Side marker light(in headlight assembly) WLED-WWHP6-TAC (Warm white) $6.95

This LED is behind an amber side reflector lens. Cool white in combination with the Amber lens creates a muddy brown color. 3200K LEDs match the amber lens better and gives a truer amber light.

 

[OrientExpress]

I was referring to the parking light in the head light enclosure, not the turn signal light.

I understand now. That bulb is actually referred to as a "City Light".

 

[TomT]

I doubt that a 35 watt HID would produce more heat than the 55 watt Halogen that is already in there...

[No way, the reflector is not optimized for HID, the heat generated in the small enclosure could compromise it, and Fog lights are just that, for use in rainy and foggy weather, not for use as auxiliary lighting.

 

[OrientExpress]

I doubt that a 35 watt HID would produce more heat than the 55 watt Halogen that is already in there...

[No way, the reflector is not optimized for HID, the heat generated in the small enclosure could compromise it, and Fog lights are just that, for use in rainy and foggy weather, not for use as auxiliary lighting.

That's not the point. The fog light reflector is not designed for an HID bulb. It has neither the proper bulb shroud or reflector shape for an HID bulb. An HID bulb in this sort of reflector creates a bright unfocused light pattern that produces unsafe glare for oncoming traffic. It just plain sucks.

 

[TEG]

 

[TomT]

Considering how bad the design of the reflectors for both the fog and high beam lights are, it would likely not help anyway, so I share your sentiments and concerns that it is not worth it. I went with 3 watt LEDs for my fogs and that looks and works well for my purposes.

[That's not the point. The fog light reflector is not designed for an HID bulb. It has neither the proper bulb shroud or reflector shape for an HID bulb. An HID bulb in this sort of reflector creates a bright unfocused light pattern that produces unsafe glare for oncoming traffic. It just plain sucks.

 

[TEG]

...I went with 3 watt LEDs for my fogs and that looks and works well for my purposes.

How do you get at the bulbs? Do you have to remove the plastic liner in the wheel well? I didn't see any obvious way to reach behind the bumper there.

Which LEDs did you use for the fog lights?

 

[TomT]

You need to remove the plastic body pan and then it is easy to reach them. It is held on with 6 bolts and 4 plastic push pins, if memory serves me correctly... It's a good time to also do the horn mod, by the way...

...I went with 3 watt LEDs for my fogs and that looks and works well for my purposes.

How do you get at the bulbs? Do you have to remove the plastic liner in the wheel well? I didn't see any obvious way to reach behind the bumper there.

Which LEDs did you use for the fog lights?

 

[Herm]

Have you guys considered night vision goggle?, it would save a lot of power.. learn to think outside the box.

Already have stereo thermal nightvision goggles and they are monochromatic and have a very high noise ratio.

I have seen some that are very high quality, no visible noise at all..but monochromatic as you say.

 

[kmp647]

New Led fog lights from PIAA

http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=PIA5370/353.0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

also on ebay for $175

After seeing how poor the reflector and performace is on the stock fog lights I am considering removing them and replacing them with these above

they are 12 watts consumption and 3.5" in diameter , anyone have an opinion?

I drove my ICE today so I dont aheve the Leaf here to measure , what is the diameter of the stock fogs?

 

[Brightonuk]

I was looking to repolace my turn signal buit am unsure of which load resitor to use
Any help?

http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Turn-Signal-Fix/sc132275//page/1/checkForLanding/true


Ahh Found it Thanks to OrientExpress

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=135465#p135465

 

[Brightonuk]

Has anyone installed the LED blinkers?

If so how do they compare to the incandescent ones is it worth the cost as these seem to be the priciest of bulbs. I am figuring $100+ (Superbright LED’s) for all the bulbs resistors, mounting plates and shields.

How difficult was it adding and securing the resistors? Did you use the resistor mounting plates /shields or leave the resistors hanging?

 

[DarkStar]

I don't know anyone using the resistors, most people just let them "fast blink." That's probably what I'll end up doing when I install them...

 

[CWO4Mann]

Have you guys considered night vision goggle?, it would save a lot of power.. learn to think outside the box.

Already have stereo thermal nightvision goggles and they are monochromatic and have a very high noise ratio.

I have seen some that are very high quality, no visible noise at all..but monochromatic as you say.

Interesting outside the box idea, but I wouldn't go there (NVS and/or thermal). Even our latest military quality night vision devices (Stereo vision) we use for the most advanced helicopter night operations have a high learning curve; challenges include depth perception, frosting, glaring, bleeding, blanking and pulling too many G's which causes some kind of Jimi Hendrix effect in the imager -- which DARPA is supposedly trying to figure out. Thermal imagers are pretty good except that your learning curve on discrimination of close objects it pretty tough. Granted, when you are hosing down the local Hajii motor pool with a 30mm chain gun, it's no big deal. But trying to drive (or fly) between two street light poles 50 feet apart is as close to a Come to Jesus Moment as you want to voluntarily experience. I would really have a problem driving with either type of device, mainly because of the depth perception and the glare/blooming issues caused by nearby lights. And did I mention that you need a neck brace after about 30 minutes of device down as opposed to device up on top of your helmet; center of gravity is way off although you could tie a web belt to your belt and then run it up the middle of your back to the rear of the headpiece.


Dave

 

[Brightonuk]

If you decide to change the map lights these are an excellent choice giving a very bright white light

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220886058079?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

[Nubo]

Regarding the H9 lamps, the first thing to do should be to check the voltage at the socket. Low voltage could explain low output and excessively yellow color and why "better bulbs" aren't helping. H9 are powerful bulbs and 2000 lumens is a LOT of light -- but you wont get that if the bulb voltage is depressed. Now that I have a LEAF I'll see if I can measure the bulb voltage and compare to nominal. The fix could lie in a separate relay to deliver power to the bulbs through larger gauge wiring, for example.

Check the reference below from Daniel Stern Lighting...

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential with the power 3.4. For example, let's consider a 9006 low beam bulb rated 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and plug in different voltages:

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens

The Europeans take a slightly more realistic with their voltage ratings; they consider output at 13.2v to be "100%". The loss curve is the same, though. When operating voltage drops to 95 percent (12.54v), headlamp bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. When voltage drops to 90 percent (11.88v), bulb output is only 67 percent of what it should be. And when voltage drops to 85 percent (11.22v), bulb output is a paltry 53 percent of normal! It is much more common than you might think for factory headlamp wiring/switch setups to produce this kind of voltage drop...

 

[Nubo]

Getting the lamps out is easy enough, but I couldn't manage to probe the pins while the lamp was operating, and couldn't bring myself to cut into the supply wires

Perhaps one of our resident EE's could take the measurements as outlined on the danielstern.com link?

The wires do look pretty thin to me...