HOW TO: Make the VSP (noisemaker) button default to off

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Pin 3 is the power switch signal, which should be grounded. You should NOT have power between 1 & 3, but you should have continuity. You should have power between 1 & 13 all the time and 1 & 11 when the car is on. If that's not the case, something is very wrong. You said you are reading power on the splice? That would suggest that your splice is bad if you have power at the splice but not at the pins. If that's the case, the VSP won't likely work when you put it back together. That's why I like the taps, I don't trust my solder skills enough.
 
Its crazy. Pins 1 and 13 have continuity. No voltage .
Pin 1 and 11 has 14.36 volts Car ON
Pin 1 and 3 has 11.52 volts Constant
When I hook it all back up, normally, the VSP works.
 
That is crazy. It almost sounds like pins 3 & 13 are reversed. I wonder if they changed the VSP module somewhere along the way? I guess the lesson here is to check the pins before starting? Can anyone else confirm these findings?
 
Confirming Yeaaaa !! Thats what Im hoping. Im the lone ranger out heh. If the two power pins arent correct, I surmise that the other assignments are outa whack... So.. I will leave the glove box apart for a while, and see what comes up on here with you brain wavers. .... b/c I am clue LESS. Ha ! Thankz guys. OH, and how can I post a picture saved on my computer, to a reply here......
 
I noticed after I put everything back to normal wiring, that when I plug in my car, the three blue lights on the dash dont light, and I have now lost my beep that accompanies putting the J1772 plug in the charge port. Any one have any suggestions? I think I have just won a trip to the dealer.... :roll:
 
Oh no. That shouldn't have anything to do with the VSP module... I wonder if you somehow shorted some wires and blew a fuse? But you said the VSP worked, which makes it even stranger... I would check the interior fuse box (located in the panel on the left hand side of the dash, similar to the one you opened on the right side) as well as the fuse box under the hood (just for good measure) and look for blown fuses. If you do need to take it in, I feel bad for you - that could be expensive! :(
 
Oh MAN !!I now have 2 problems. 1. is the 3 charge lights and the sound doesnt chime when I plug my car in, and Well, I checked all the fuses. I pulled each one, and inspected it, all were good, and I put them all back. Well, now I have a "T/M Warning ", which is something with the shifter. I probably put a fuse back in a wrong slot. I am goin to the dealer for sure now........ RATS.
Is there a way to reset the car....easily ? Like a re boot by disconnecting the 12v battery for 30 seconds, or is that a stupid thing to do...at this point. I will go and tell them the truth, and pay the piper. They have to know what I was doing, so they can solve this problem....
 
I'm sorry to hear that. It's no fun when things go south. It couldn't hurt to reboot everything. The best way to do that is disconnect the 12v negative battery terminal for a few minutes. I do doubt you could make anything worse. :shock:
 
I re-booted to no avail. T/M malfunction See Dealer. I left the car sit today. Home tonite, and I get in, the same display about the T/M Malfct, but a NEW one too when I try to put in in D or R, it takes 4-6 attempts, then Dash says I-Key system malfunction. Plus, the Start up song plays, and the car turns on fine... I have a Dealer reservation tomorrw. This is gonna be interesting... I must have really inadvertently screwwed something up. And I never Even crossed or shorted the wires. This is very Crazy.
 
GeekEV said:
I suppose it COULD be coincidence. I don't know if you want to try feigning ignorance or fess up. :?


IMHO there are two sides to that coin; If you fess up right away, you risk the technician focusing on your activities and not taking in the whole picture, If you don't say anything the risk is that the technician may not find the real problem quickly.

I think I would say nothing, so the technician would examine the whole picture and not risk him/her focusing on something that could possibly not be the problem. A good tech will find scuffed wire insulation and become suspicious fairly quickly.

good luck!

:geek:
 
According to the owners manual, T/M is something to do with the car shifting into D or R. See Dealer it says !!
As for whats wrong, I will soon find out. There are no lights but solenoid sounds (like usual) on the dash when I plug in. There is this T/M warning. There is also a I-Key dysfunction warning. but the VSP sounds normal on start up and back up. The disengage button on the VSP works. Another unusal thing this morning, is.....my TRIP ODOMETER. Says 0.00.....then I drive it, it logs the proper mileage, then, when you turn off the car, and back ON again, it so zero's itself out !!! I really torqued out my leaf !!!! LOL ...Im sure that it will get fixed, but what a story.
 
I'll say. I'm really beginning to think this is an unrelated coincidence. But what a coincidence! I'm with the other posted who suggested that you should NOT tell the dealer what you were up to as it may taint their investigation. Let them figure it out on their own.
 
There should be, yes. And according to the wiring diagram, there is a 10A fuse (#11) in the fuse box. Maybe check that one specifically...
 
Well, I visually.... VISUALLY checked each fuse in 3 panels. I think I set off a delayed computer virus by attempting this very simple mod. (Im joking about the virus). It will be interesting to see what the techs come up with. My take was to NOT tell them. Judge me, hate me, but I thought it would just make them rare-back and go " ah HAA !! we are gonna charge your hind end OFFFF for playing with it.. and it could be only a fuse link or some 50cent part. Better to let them work. Lord knows what it is. and I am prepared to take the blame if they blame me. They did say they have had T/M and the I-Key warnings in on some Leafs here already.
 
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