HOW TO: Make the VSP (noisemaker) button default to off

[Ingineer]

And FYI: I did everything point-to-point right on the top of the VSP board. Easy and quick!

-Phil

 

[GlennD]

Your approach works for you and mine for me. I thank you for the simple effective design.

 

[iluvmacs]

If someone is willing to come by my shop in the East Bay Area (Berkeley) with their 2012, I will be happy to test whether a simple switch can be added and still preserve the reverse beeps.

Knowing what I know about how Nissan/Toyota implement wiring harnesses, I seriously doubt it's as easy as plugging in the switch. You'll have to (at the very least) run a wire.

If the VSP module is the same, my circuit (described above) will still shut off the woosh/backup noises, but leave the other beeps.

All these questions can be quickly answered in a few minutes looking at a 2012.

-Phil

They removed the pin 5 wire from the harness, so you either have to track down a pin to add it to the connector, or solder it in (like I did). I was hoping the harness was intact all the way to the instrument cluster area where the switch was in MY'11, so I could just add a button there, but alas, no luck. So I have the auto-off circuit installed, and no button at all... so it's permanently off.

 

[Ingineer]

You could just add a button pretty easily in the glovebox if you really wanted it.

-Phil

 

[iluvmacs]

Certainly considered it. Don't feel a need to at the moment.

 

[HankHillNeedsALeaf]

So, hypothetically speaking, if someone was following the directions posted at the start of the thread in their MY12 Leaf and accidently cut pin 1 (black wire) when trying to remove it and now his startup sound, charging lights and charging beep have all stopped working, what would you say is his best option as next course of action? Hypothetically speaking, of course

 

[TomT]

Hypothetically, reconnect the wire.

So, hypothetically speaking, if someone was following the directions posted at the start of the thread in their MY12 Leaf and accidently cut pin 1 (black wire) when trying to remove it and now his startup sound, charging lights and charging beep have all stopped working, what would you say is his best option as next course of action? Hypothetically speaking, of course

 

[GeekEV]

Another option would be to connect pin 1 to any available bare chassis metal. Pin 1 is just a ground wire.

 

[HankHillNeedsALeaf]

After some creative soldering I was able to reconnect the pin 1 (black wire). But I was too chicken to continue so I heat shrinked the wire, put everything back and thought I was good. But now my charging lights and beep don't work and the clock on the dash doesn't seem to keep time. I thought maybe it was a blown fuse but I'm not entirely sure. Should I bite the bullet and take it into the dealership?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GeekEV]

What else did you do besides cut the wire?

You might try pulling the negative battery terminal and let it sit for a little while to reset things. But I can't imagine just cutting the ground wire would cause the symptoms you describe.

 

[HankHillNeedsALeaf]

I only cut the black wire on the VSP module by accident. I hadn't gotten any further. Soldered it back together, covered the wire and put everything back. I was getting the "I key" errors but those went away.

Thanks for the negative terminal suggestion. I just disconnected it for about 40 mins but still no charge lights and the clock resets itself on each startup.

If I take it in and they find my wiring fix I assume that's an automatic warranty void?

 

[GeekEV]

Only if what you did is responsible for the failure. And it wouldn't void everything, just that service and anything related to it. But I can't for the life of me see how cutting a grond wire could cause the behavior you're describing. You'd have to short something I would think. Very strange. Like with the other guy who botched it, I probably wouldn't tell them what you did because it will taint their thinking and they'll try to blame it all on you when it might not have anything to do with it.

 

[HankHillNeedsALeaf]

Appreciate the feedback. I read about the other guy on the thread that botched it and that's what made me think maybe it was a blown fuse (like I shorted something out during the process). Is there anywhere I can find a list of which fuse is which? Or should I just check them one by one?

Thanks again.


p.s. I may ultimately chance it with the dealer but if it's something simple I'd like to do it myself. Truth be told, I can live with the charging lights and clock not working but the failure to shut off that back up beep is what stings the most. Is there ANY wire I can pull to disable that thing? I know you can cut the speaker wire but I'm a bit wary of doing any wire cutting for a while.

 

[Ingineer]

Hank, You've got a blown fuse.

Word to people screwing around on their cars: DISCONNECT the battery before doing tinkering, and Double-check everything before reconnecting!

-Phil

 

[garygid]

Disconnecting a Ground to a board and then turning the power on COULD cause the outputs of that board to be high (near 12v) when they normally were low-voltage (under 5v) outputs. This could blow the inputs of the boards connected those outputs.

Of course, good design COULD protect every input, but that is not always done.

 

[HankHillNeedsALeaf]

Thanks so much for all the feedback. Ingineer was spot on. It was a blown fuse and all systems are back to normal (And I wrote "Always disconnect the battery before tinkering" 500 times on the chalkboard

So back to the drawing board. MUST DISABLE BACKUP SOUND!

Skywagon wrote:

That switch just sends a signal to the BCM to turn the signal to the speaker off when pressed. There is no feedback from the speaker to the BCM so unplugging it will not cause a code to show... it is located in front of the left front tire.

Any more details on this method? Or is going back in to the VSP module my only choice?

 

[GeekEV]

I've updated the OP to reflect the recommendation to disconnect the battery. However, you will have to plug it back in for step 6 in order to program the module. You should disconnect it again after that while you finish up.

I've also updated to indicate that these hacks do seem to work on MY2012.

 

[garsh]

Slightly OT:

As a soon-to-be owner of a 2012 Leaf, I'd like to add a VSP button (possibly in addition to this mod).
What type of button do I need, and how should I connect it to the VSP?

 

[GeekEV]

Slightly OT:

As a soon-to-be owner of a 2012 Leaf, I'd like to add a VSP button (possibly in addition to this mod).
What type of button do I need, and how should I connect it to the VSP?

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=3296&start=170#p167185" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[garsh]

Thanks GeekEV!

In the 2011's, is the "VSP off" light located on the dash, or on the switch itself?
If on the switch, do you know how it's connected?
If on the dash, is it known if the 2012's still have this light?