First African leafer ask specific questions
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2k1Toaster
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I've let my Leaf sit for 3+ months when I was on holiday on the other side of the world. The SOC was essentially unchanged.
Hello guys. Good sunday.
The leaf arrived safe with flat battery but no turtle mode. I could manage to drive it home. But my concerns remains. The seller gave me a L2 charger with is compatible with our 220 V here.
The charger is a NEMA L6 30P with 3 pins but it can not be plug directly in the regular 220V socket wich is 2 holes.
So the question is simple : wich type of adaptor I can use to plug the charger in the socket? I think of two options :
- first : an adaptor female to receive the NEMA with a particular out wire that can fit the socket
- second : an compatible socket with 3 hole that can replace the one on the wall.
What do you think of it?
Thanks for your comments.
The leaf arrived safe with flat battery but no turtle mode. I could manage to drive it home. But my concerns remains. The seller gave me a L2 charger with is compatible with our 220 V here.
The charger is a NEMA L6 30P with 3 pins but it can not be plug directly in the regular 220V socket wich is 2 holes.
So the question is simple : wich type of adaptor I can use to plug the charger in the socket? I think of two options :
- first : an adaptor female to receive the NEMA with a particular out wire that can fit the socket
- second : an compatible socket with 3 hole that can replace the one on the wall.
What do you think of it?
Thanks for your comments.
DNAinaGoodWay
Well-known member
The socket will work for you at home, but you'll still want the adapter to be able to plug in at other locations.
Yes the L6-30p is kind of our standard 30a 240v outlet, at least for EVs. I guess in your case I'd replace the L6-30p end and install a plug that is used in your area. I have a couple of concerns, #1 is I'm pretty sure you need the 3rd wire, ground for the EVSE to work. 2 wires in your area probably means 1 220v hot and 1 neutral(as apposed to our 2 legs of 120v each that equal 240v) and #2 the amperage. If your EVSE has a 30a plug more than likely it means it draws 20a or more, are your outlets rated for 20+ a? From what I've read about European 220v outlets lots of times they are <15a, probably not the 20a you might need. Now depending on who did your EVSE upgrade to 240v it may be possible to dial down the amperage, do you know if it's adjustable or possibly set to a lower amperage than say 20a?pape said:
Again you could build socket adapters to your local sockets but as long as your EVSE will probably never see a L6-30 outlet, why not just get rid of it from the start and put on something used in your area.
TonyWilliams
Well-known member
I would buy a few L6-30R "pigtails" from www.EVSEupgrade.com, and when they arrive in Togo, have a local electrician attach whatever typical wall plug is in use in your area on each pigtail. Any competent electrician will know how to do this.
That way, you can bring the charge cable with you and switch out the wall plugs as needed.
I worked for the national airline in Nigeria for two years, so I can appreciate the struggle that you face in Western Africa.
Good luck.
That way, you can bring the charge cable with you and switch out the wall plugs as needed.
I worked for the national airline in Nigeria for two years, so I can appreciate the struggle that you face in Western Africa.
Good luck.
Dear thanks for your comments. Tony I hope you come back to West Africa I hope you enjoyed your stay!
A quick update on the process.
I will finally get the car out of custom office by Wednesday.
I bought a Leviton NEMA L 6 30 Receptacle 250 V 30 A to receive the L6 30 P of the EVSE. With that, an electrician friend of mine did prepare a sort of wall installation with the following :
- The nema R that will receive the charger plug
- 3 wires attached to the NEMA Receptacle with 2 poles and one Ground ;
- He proposed a 20 A circuit breaker (as per what is written on the leaf EVSE (24 A but typiccally 20 A) between the counter and the NEMA receptable as a protection for the current coming in the EVSE.
I hope it will work when car arrives soon.
I will try to attach images.
Thanks!
A quick update on the process.
I will finally get the car out of custom office by Wednesday.
I bought a Leviton NEMA L 6 30 Receptacle 250 V 30 A to receive the L6 30 P of the EVSE. With that, an electrician friend of mine did prepare a sort of wall installation with the following :
- The nema R that will receive the charger plug
- 3 wires attached to the NEMA Receptacle with 2 poles and one Ground ;
- He proposed a 20 A circuit breaker (as per what is written on the leaf EVSE (24 A but typiccally 20 A) between the counter and the NEMA receptable as a protection for the current coming in the EVSE.
I hope it will work when car arrives soon.
I will try to attach images.
Thanks!
I don't understand your EVSE. Typically a Nissan OEM EVSE only puts out 12a, and a upgraded one can go up to 20a but I've never seen one do 24a....for one thing the wiring is only 12 gauge which is typically rated for 16 to a maximum of 20a, 24a would get a bit toasty IMO.
If indeed your EVSE is drawing 20a and especially 24a you would want/need a 30a breaker and #10 gauge wiring. You say your EVSE is not upgraded but I believe it is, possibly a early EVSEupgrade unit? If it was strictly factory it wouldn't have that sticker over the back of the EVSE. Note since I believe you have a '14 Leaf and probably a 6.6kw charger it may very well draw the maximum listed on the EVSE, your car is capable of charging up to 27.5a, just not sure how high your EVSE will go to.
If indeed your EVSE is drawing 20a and especially 24a you would want/need a 30a breaker and #10 gauge wiring. You say your EVSE is not upgraded but I believe it is, possibly a early EVSEupgrade unit? If it was strictly factory it wouldn't have that sticker over the back of the EVSE. Note since I believe you have a '14 Leaf and probably a 6.6kw charger it may very well draw the maximum listed on the EVSE, your car is capable of charging up to 27.5a, just not sure how high your EVSE will go to.
jjeff said:
It is possible it has been upgraded because the seller changed the 110 V car EVSE for this one capable of going with 220 V at my request. It is like the EVSE is for 20 A. I can confirm it : the car has the 6.6 kW charger!
Do you think there is a risk the car not to charge? The 20 A breaker is optional. It is not needed since the EVSE could take the 220 V current directly from the home-made wall unit.
Thanks for your comment.
Yes I believe it's been upgraded by EVSEupgrade, according to something I read in another thread they did some some international upgrades that were more than 20a.pape said:
I'm a little confused by your home-made outlet/breaker/wiring thing. What does the wiring hook to? It must hook to a breaker of some type? If so it should really be 30a and again it would be best if the wiring going to the homemade breaker was at least 10 gauge, oh and what is the amperage of the homemade breaker thing? If only 20a it's possible it might trip when hooked to your EVSE/car. In the US anyway a 20a breaker will get extremely warm with a 20a load and possibly trip, breakers are only rated for 80% of their listed current for extended use, its possible things are different in Africa? I believe I've read in Europe(or maybe New Zealand) that breakers may well be rated in actual current and not 80% like we have here. Regardless since your EVSE lists up to 24a I'd take that to heart.
Link to the post talking about international EVSE upgrades:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=15784&start=100#p466165
jjeff said:
Ok I see your concern. Let me explain you easily the system.
1) Baseline information of my house electricity system : 220 V 25 Amp in the counter/ not grounded monophased receptacles with 2 poles.
2) Home made built receptable :
- first we had to solve the question about the receptacle : I bought the NEMA LE 30 Receptacle 30 Amp.
- second : we connected to the new receptable 3 wiress including 2 poles + 1 ground as you can see in the image. The full wire will be hooked to the electricity system with the 2 poles and 1 ground added to bring the current in the EVSE to be connected to the NEMA L6 30 R.
- third : we suggested to protect the current coming in the EVSE from the electricity system by putting a 20 Amp Scheinder Electric breaker just before the receptacle. May be it is not needed since I think the EVSE can take directly the current without. In the case we keep it instead of the 20 amp, should be use a 30 Amp breaker given the amperage of the counter in 25 amp?
Let me know also what do you mean by 10 gauge for the wiring.
Regards,
Pape
1. 25a main breaker should be fine but if your EVSE draws 20a you wouldn't have much left over for anything else in your house.....
2. I guess you could try it with the 20a breaker in your outlet device but if the breaker gets hot I'd upsize it to 25a or do without it. If your house breaker is 25a that should protect your EVSE just fine.
3. 10 gauge is a rating of wire we use in N. America, you may not use the gauge standard in Africa. Just make to sure the wiring you use is capable of 25 or for sure 20a continuous use and good luck
Note I'm not sure about your European EVSEupgrade but the current ones in N. America allow the user to easily adjust the output current. In other words you can dial it down to be less than the maximum of 24 or even 20 amps. This might be handy if your finding yourself tripping your main breaker or you want to use something else that draws much current at the same time as your charging your Leaf. If yours is adjustable you should be able to dial down the charge current to as low as 6 amps. If your not sure if your EVSE is adjustable you might want to call or email EVSEupgrade.com and ask them, they should be able to tell you if it's adjustable or not.
2. I guess you could try it with the 20a breaker in your outlet device but if the breaker gets hot I'd upsize it to 25a or do without it. If your house breaker is 25a that should protect your EVSE just fine.
3. 10 gauge is a rating of wire we use in N. America, you may not use the gauge standard in Africa. Just make to sure the wiring you use is capable of 25 or for sure 20a continuous use and good luck
Note I'm not sure about your European EVSEupgrade but the current ones in N. America allow the user to easily adjust the output current. In other words you can dial it down to be less than the maximum of 24 or even 20 amps. This might be handy if your finding yourself tripping your main breaker or you want to use something else that draws much current at the same time as your charging your Leaf. If yours is adjustable you should be able to dial down the charge current to as low as 6 amps. If your not sure if your EVSE is adjustable you might want to call or email EVSEupgrade.com and ask them, they should be able to tell you if it's adjustable or not.
Pape,
The label on your EVSE looks exactly like the label on the one from my 2011 that I had upgraded by EVSEUpgrade after the car was declared a total loss by the other driver's insurance company. If your EVSE is a standard USA unit with the standard upgrade, then it will allow 12 amperes at 100-140 volts and 20 amperes at 200-250 volts (if programmed to maximum currents). It can be programmed to limit current in 1-ampere increments from the maximum value (at each voltage) down to the minimum J1772 SAE protocol standard of 6 amperes. For international customers, EVSEUpgrade could program the maximums up to 24 amperes at 200-250 volts and 16 amperes at 100-140 volts with special request at time of order. You can determine the programmed setting by counting the flashes of the green light with the unit plugged in to the L6-30 receptacle and not plugged in to the car. If it is plugged in to the car and charging, count the flashes of the orange light. Twenty flashes, pause, 20 flashes, pause, etc. indicates that it is programmed for 20 amperes maximum. Six flashes, pause, 6 flashes, pause, etc. indicates it is programmed to minimum current. The car will determine the actual charging current--it will be at maximum allowable for several hours if battery is low and taper to low current level when it approaches full charge. I suggest you order some L6-30R pigtails from EVSEUpgrade and put standard plugs for your area on the other ends so you can charge other places besides your home. I cannot remember the procedure to change the programmed settings, but can look it up later if you need it. EVSEUpgrade is very helpful so you can email them with questions (include serial number, model number, etc. in your email).
Gerry
The label on your EVSE looks exactly like the label on the one from my 2011 that I had upgraded by EVSEUpgrade after the car was declared a total loss by the other driver's insurance company. If your EVSE is a standard USA unit with the standard upgrade, then it will allow 12 amperes at 100-140 volts and 20 amperes at 200-250 volts (if programmed to maximum currents). It can be programmed to limit current in 1-ampere increments from the maximum value (at each voltage) down to the minimum J1772 SAE protocol standard of 6 amperes. For international customers, EVSEUpgrade could program the maximums up to 24 amperes at 200-250 volts and 16 amperes at 100-140 volts with special request at time of order. You can determine the programmed setting by counting the flashes of the green light with the unit plugged in to the L6-30 receptacle and not plugged in to the car. If it is plugged in to the car and charging, count the flashes of the orange light. Twenty flashes, pause, 20 flashes, pause, etc. indicates that it is programmed for 20 amperes maximum. Six flashes, pause, 6 flashes, pause, etc. indicates it is programmed to minimum current. The car will determine the actual charging current--it will be at maximum allowable for several hours if battery is low and taper to low current level when it approaches full charge. I suggest you order some L6-30R pigtails from EVSEUpgrade and put standard plugs for your area on the other ends so you can charge other places besides your home. I cannot remember the procedure to change the programmed settings, but can look it up later if you need it. EVSEUpgrade is very helpful so you can email them with questions (include serial number, model number, etc. in your email).
Gerry
Hello guys,
A quick update! Unfortunately, the car is still under customs clearance. But yesterday, I brought the EVSE to make a try. I agree, the EVSE is an american made upgraded for international clients.
So with my electrician, we plugged the EVSE on the L 6 30 receptacle (what a bloody pressure!!!) to see if the current arrives. When putting on the breaker, the EVSE green lighting started (ouf...!)
GerryAz, the number of flashes was more than 6 but around 15 I dont remember exactly.
Jjeef, the electrician said the wires is "strong" enough! To be confirmed. Also, my counter is a 3 phases 25 amp. That means, the house has 3 phases draining each 25 amp = 75 amp available in total. We are looking the total equipments installed in the phase where we put the EVSE.
I hope the car to come out tusday and just star charging.
Keep you informed.
cheers,
Pape
A quick update! Unfortunately, the car is still under customs clearance. But yesterday, I brought the EVSE to make a try. I agree, the EVSE is an american made upgraded for international clients.
So with my electrician, we plugged the EVSE on the L 6 30 receptacle (what a bloody pressure!!!) to see if the current arrives. When putting on the breaker, the EVSE green lighting started (ouf...!)
GerryAz, the number of flashes was more than 6 but around 15 I dont remember exactly.
Jjeef, the electrician said the wires is "strong" enough! To be confirmed. Also, my counter is a 3 phases 25 amp. That means, the house has 3 phases draining each 25 amp = 75 amp available in total. We are looking the total equipments installed in the phase where we put the EVSE.
I hope the car to come out tusday and just star charging.
Keep you informed.
cheers,
Pape
It sounds like your EVSE is setup to output 15a(15 flashes) which is good for you on several fronts:pape said:
1. If it was setup for the maximum(20a I believe) it would draw nearly all the current from 2 of your 3 phases(assuming you have (3) 120v phases giving you 208v, if you have (3) phases of 220v each it would nearly max out just one of your 3 phases but still probably not be a good idea. Set for 15a it should give you a little to spare.
2. Set for only 15a the size(gauge) of the wire isn't so critical, standard 12 gauge wiring should be sufficient.
3. I understand what you mean when you say you have 75a maximum but the Leaf only takes advantage of 1 or 2 of those phases. One if each leg is 220v or two if each leg is 120v and you have to use 2 hot legs to get 208v(3 phase 240v equivalent).
Hope everything works good for you.
Update
Just did some searching and it looks like Togo uses similar power to Europe(220v hot and neutral at 50hz). So it sounds like you'll only be using one of your 3 phases and a neutral wire to get 220v. Note at 15a and for sure 20a you'll be using a significant amount of one of your 3 phases, if possible try and move anything that draws a significant amount of power to 1 of your other 2 phases. Also note, not sure if you have any higher draw 3 phase devices(like large air conditioners) but those will draw power from all 3 phases and will add to whatever you set your EVSE for. In other words if you have a 15a 3 phase AC unit and set your EVSE to 15a you'd blow one if not all 3 of your breaker/fuses because you'd be drawing a total of 30a and you said you only have a 25a service. Your electrician may already know this but I just wanted to make sure.
I suppose it's also possible that your 3 "phases" aren't really 3 phase but actually 3 separate 220v circuits, if so ignore all my comments about a 3 phase air conditioner, they wouldn't be applicable to you.
http://www.adaptelec.com/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&products_id=195
2nd update
I see no indication that Togo uses 3 phase wiring for residential use so it sounds like your (3) phases are really (3) separate 220v circuits. Ignore my comment about 3-phase devices. At 15a you'll be using all but 10a from just one of your 3 hot wires, just make sure you don't have any other high current devices on that hot wire and personally I wouldn't set your EVSE any higher than the 15a it sounds like it's currently set at.
EVDRIVER
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2010
- Messages
- 6,753
Your breaker needs to be 25A and have only one breaker unless rated the same.
Wire should be rated for 25A
If your unit is flashing 15 times it may be set for 16A continuous breakers and you could adjust it up assuming it has Euro firmware which is different than US firmware not just for amp setting but ground detection.
Wire should be rated for 25A
If your unit is flashing 15 times it may be set for 16A continuous breakers and you could adjust it up assuming it has Euro firmware which is different than US firmware not just for amp setting but ground detection.
jjeff said:
Thanks for the update. I will be fine with the 15A as long as it does not last the charging time at a complete discharge of the battery. I precise the car has the 6.6 KW charger and I hope the 220 V current will enable a raisonnable charging time!
I will observe and measure the impacted phase output once the car is plugged.
Regards,
Pape
For an almost discharged battery @27.5a @240v it takes me about 4hrs to charge my Leaf. With 220v and @15a I'd guess about 8hrs??
Not sure if you followed my whole 240/120v thing but in Toga it sounds like you have 220v between each leg and neutral/ground, in N. America we have 120v between each leg and neutral but 240v between the two hot legs. 3 phase commercial power is different, you still have 120v between each hot and neutral but only 208v between each hot leg. Toga probably also has 3 phase power in commercial buildings but I don't know what you'd get between 2 hots in your case......
Oh we also have 277v commercial power, in that case we get 480v between 2 hots, this kind of power is only used in larger commercial buildings and require a transformer for 120v outlets/devices.
Not sure if you followed my whole 240/120v thing but in Toga it sounds like you have 220v between each leg and neutral/ground, in N. America we have 120v between each leg and neutral but 240v between the two hot legs. 3 phase commercial power is different, you still have 120v between each hot and neutral but only 208v between each hot leg. Toga probably also has 3 phase power in commercial buildings but I don't know what you'd get between 2 hots in your case......
Oh we also have 277v commercial power, in that case we get 480v between 2 hots, this kind of power is only used in larger commercial buildings and require a transformer for 120v outlets/devices.
