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LTLFTcomposite said:
Is there any reason the plug on the modified EVSE cannot be changed to L14 and just not connect the neutral? Sorry if this was answered previously.
Nope, although you may just want to make an adapter.
 
davewill said:
LTLFTcomposite said:
Is there any reason the plug on the modified EVSE cannot be changed to L14 and just not connect the neutral? Sorry if this was answered previously.
Nope, although you may just want to make an adapter.
I think at one point Phil might have allowed people to specify something other than the L6-20 for their connector if they want, although I don't know if this offer is still valid anymore. However, you gotta keep in mind that if you also want to use the mod EVSE with a 120V source, then you'd need to make an L14 to 5-15 adapter, which is not as readily available as the L6-20 to 5-15 adapter already offered by Phil. I think it's easier to just stick with the L6-20 connector because L6-20 pigtails and extension cords are more readily available than L14 pigtails and extension cord, and is probably cheaper, too.
 
The Control Pilot from the EVSE signals Max-Current, nothing about voltage.

The LEAF senses the voltage (at least when power is first applied)
and adapts to use the supplied voltage, and an appropriate current.
 
Point well taken voulsiano and davewill, an adapter will do the trick. Just need a way to connect it to a Honda EB5000. Come to think of it I could hang the L6-20 receptacle off the transfer switch. Lots of ways to skin this cat.
 
planet4ever said:
smkettner said:
I think the building code will also require the breaker to be changed to a 20a.
Surely that can't be true. If it were, then NEMA 5-15 outlets would violate code on a 20A circuit, and builders do that all the time.

Ray
I understand multiple 5-15s strung on a 20a circuit and breaker is allowed. When you go to 30a+ most circuits are dedicated and ratings need to match between breaker and outlet, wire has a minimum but can be larger to avoid voltage drop.

Consult your city building department or a local electrician.
 
planet4ever said:
smkettner said:
I think the building code will also require the breaker to be changed to a 20a.
Surely that can't be true. If it were, then NEMA 5-15 outlets would violate code on a 20A circuit, and builders do that all the time.
Here are the NEC rules:

1) If there is only one outlet on a circuit, its rating must match or exceed the rating of the breaker. So if you change a dedicated 30 amp dryer receptacle to an L6-20 receptacle, you need to change the breaker to 20 amps or less.

2) If there are multiple outlets on a circuit, then the receptacle rating much match the breaker, with two exceptions: (a) 15 amp receptacles are allowed on 20 amp circuits (because the listing requirement for 15 amp receptacles requires a rating for 20 amps pass through), and (b) 50 amp receptacles are allowed on 40 amp circuits (because their are no NEMA 40 amp receptacles).

Cheers, Wayne
 
You buy automobile insurance seperately, but to buy a new car in CA you must show insurance coverage, since vehicle Registration (and Operation?) in CA requires insurance coverage.

Of course, some obtain and drive a car and neither insure nor register it.
 
greentracy30 said:
When I purchase this car, would car insurance also be included? Or I will have to sign up for a car insurance for this?
Another "shameless spam" alert!!!! I've seen this poster posting these kinds of messages around the forum before.

Do you think that anyone will buy insurance through you via spam like this?
 
LTLFTcomposite said:
Thank you for your forthright response. A followup question I have related to this is whether the pilot signalling/handshake indicates the voltage, or only the available amperage. The reason I ask is whether, despite all the quality controls in the modification, is there is any possibility of damage to the car if the EVSE fails in some manner? For example, the car is "expecting" 120v and it gets 240v. I think the answer is no, but can you confirm this?
No there is no possibility of damage to the LEAF unless something were to happen like a massive power surge, which is not the EVSE's fault of course. The EVSE simply indicates the max amperage the on-board charger module in the car is allowed to draw. The module in the LEAF is a wide-voltage input charger and will automatically adapt to whatever input voltage is present.

Again, the EVSE is nothing but a "smart cord", mainly performing safety duty, and also telling the charger how much amperage it's safe to draw. (up to 12 amps on 120v or 16 amps on 240v, which is a hardware limitation of the LEAF's on-board charger module.)

If the EVSE "fails" the worst thing that will happen is no charging. In my opinion, this EVSE (which is made by Panasonic's Kitchen Appliances division) is the most well-built and ruggedest unit on the market. I fully expect them to outlast any LEAF or whatever you buy next.

-Phil
 
Volusiano said:
davewill said:
LTLFTcomposite said:
Is there any reason the plug on the modified EVSE cannot be changed to L14 and just not connect the neutral? Sorry if this was answered previously.
Nope, although you may just want to make an adapter.
I think at one point Phil might have allowed people to specify something other than the L6-20 for their connector if they want, although I don't know if this offer is still valid anymore. However, you gotta keep in mind that if you also want to use the mod EVSE with a 120V source, then you'd need to make an L14 to 5-15 adapter, which is not as readily available as the L6-20 to 5-15 adapter already offered by Phil. I think it's easier to just stick with the L6-20 connector because L6-20 pigtails and extension cords are more readily available than L14 pigtails and extension cord, and is probably cheaper, too.

The only options we currently offer are Molded L6-20P, Molded L6-30P, or bare end. We will only ship the high-quality molded ends, as I trust them to last and also be safe if they ever accidentally encounter wet conditions.

However, If you were so inclined, understood the risks, and were competent, you could change the plug to anything of your choosing.

For 14-50's, (and 14-30/14-60's) I use an adapter like this:
pic


I find the L6-20 the best choice as an interconnect because it's compact, it locks, and it's relatively finger save as compared to something like a 14-50. If I were going to wall-mount my unit inside, I might consider changing the L6-20 out to match whatever my wall outlet configuration was just to keep it elegant. But still, I think I'd change my wall outlet to an L6-20R first.

We don't currently sell adapters, but we do provide the high-quality L6-20R molded ends so you can add your own male plugs and create adapters.
page0-pic-2.jpeg


-Phil
 
Great discussion.

I recently visited an RV park has three options, L14-50R, 7-15R; and what I think is a 5-20R. I had just received Phil's Rev2 upgrade and had several plug types with me. I understood that all of these were 120 volt.

Questions -
If Phil's Rev2 upgrade only draws 16 amps anyway, is there any advantage to use a higher amperage plug?

The RV park has a 5-20R, that has the extra little change on one blade (don't know how to describe it better) and I have Phil's 5-15 adapter. If I use this, will the unit draw 12 amps because the adapter is a 15 amp instead of a 20 amp adapter?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Randy3 said:
I recently visited an RV park has three options, L14-50R, 7-15R; and what I think is a 5-20R.

7-15r ??? I really think you were looking at NEMA 30-TT and is a 120v 30a connector.
It does look similar when looking at a NEMA chart so here is an image of the 30-TT:

TT-30%20P-R.jpg
 
The NEMA 30-TT (30 amp RV connector) raises an interesting question... can the Leaf charger be instructed by an EVSE to draw 30 amps (or maybe 24) even if it is only getting 120 volts? Or does it assume 16 amps maximum on 120 volts?
 
Thanks Phil for the response on the adapters. I'll make up an adapter to L14 (assuming they open up ordering for the cars!) or just charge on 120v if needed... besides what are the odds we'll have another hurricane anyway?
 
LTLFTcomposite said:
The NEMA 30-TT (30 amp RV connector) raises an interesting question... can the Leaf charger be instructed by an EVSE to draw 30 amps (or maybe 24) even if it is only getting 120 volts? Or does it assume 16 amps maximum on 120 volts?

The current Rev2 EVSE allows for 12A@120V and 16A@240V, but I'm not sure what the charger can request.
 
z0ner said:
LTLFTcomposite said:
The NEMA 30-TT (30 amp RV connector) raises an interesting question... can the Leaf charger be instructed by an EVSE to draw 30 amps (or maybe 24) even if it is only getting 120 volts? Or does it assume 16 amps maximum on 120 volts?

The current Rev2 EVSE allows for 12A@120V and 16A@240V, but I'm not sure what the charger can request.

It will not draw over 16A at 120V even with a 100A signal. It will draw more current at a voltage below 120V but that does does not net faster charging.
 
No matter what the EVSE indicates the current LEAF will draw a max of 12a on 120v (1.44kW) and 16a on 240v (3.84kW).

There is no point in making a TT-30 adapter. If you are going to RV parks you want the 14-50 adapter.

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
No matter what the EVSE indicates the current LEAF will draw a max of 12a on 120v (1.44kW) and 16a on 240v (3.84kW).

There is no point in making a TT-30 adapter. If you are going to RV parks you want the 14-50 adapter.

-Phil

I'm not so sure about that last point. I've been to hundreds of campgrounds/RV parks; depending on how "luxurious" they are you will find lots of places that have TT-30 but don't have 14-50. Usually they will also have a plain old 15 or 20 amp duplex receptacle (whatever number that is). But those duplex receptacles can get pretty badly beaten up, worn contacts, weak breakers, etc. A constant 12amp drain will likely warm up that plug. Plus if you are camping there (what else would you do?) you might have a few other things along like a tv, hot plate, etc.
 
Randy3 said:
I recently visited an RV park has three options, L14-50R, 7-15R; and what I think is a 5-20R. I had just received Phil's Rev2 upgrade and had several plug types with me. I understood that all of these were 120 volt.
I always thought the L14-50R is 240V. Are you sure it's 120V? Did you actually measure the voltage across it?
 
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