Yes but how an AC removes humidity is by, passing the warm? air over a cold coil, you can't really dehumidify without cooling, that or just warming the air which would lower the relative humidity but not really remove any humidity. Now in the case of a car, I assume it first heats the air with the heater and then blows that warm humid air over a cold coil to dehumidify it. If the heat is more than the cooling you have heat, albeit cooler warm air than you'd have without introducing the cold coil, unless I'm missing something, which I could be? I believe that's why with a heat pump system you must use the resistive heater to dehumidify, AC to cool the coil and the resistive heater to heat it, you can't do both at the same time.DaveinOlyWA said:jjeff said:Thanks, I'll give it a try, it just seemed counterintuitive for energy savings to run both heat and A/C but your idea of being able to use recirc and in my case not bring in sub-zero temps may more than offset the A/C draw. Also I wonder if the A/C will even come on in my zero temps, sounds like you were in warmer temps....DougWantsALeaf said:.....Battery temp.was interesting. I left with a high temp monitor reading of 51.5F, was at 52.5F at the halfway point, but was at 56.6F at the end (i did drive faster on way back), even at 12-15F outside temp battery warmed a little bit.
I had a similar experience to you last weekend driving my '12 around when it was again around 0F. It started out with a battery temp of about 0F but quickly warmed up to 20F after only about 5 miles of mostly side streets with full heat, not full speed freeway driving. After less than 1 mile of driving I got the turtle, with I believe >60 SOC. It wasn't the full, crawl speed turtle you get with extremely low SOC but rather just limited me to 4? power bubbles(less than half) but was perfectly adequate to drive in. Note the turtle still stayed on my dash up to my halfway destination when the battery was 20F but after shopping for about an hour I started the Leaf, where I believe the battery was still around 20F and the turtle was no longer on. The power bubbles were still not full but just lacked the top 1/4 vs before when I only had the bottom 1/4 available.
I should note my '12 only has 8 battery bars so maybe that explains some of the odd behavior I'm having in extreme cold temps, looking at the histogram? of the battery cell voltages are all over the map
Need to dispel the ideology that AC will produce cold air somehow counteracting the heat. The A/C is only removing moisture and drier air is easier to heat up. I also found in milder temps, the AC on with vents closed helps to keep the windshield clear. The AC draws very little power with LEAF Spy registering power slightly less than half the time with the predominant draw being 50wh