Ecotality filed for bankrupcy and intent to sell all assets

[bobsfreeleaf]

"Free" Heck no. I used to think the Walgreens folks were marketing genious since I would draw about $.35 of electricity (mostly for the amusement of imagining a future where this technology is supported for something less than $.60 a KW) (blink). Anyway, I get my free $.35 of juice and in turn spend about $75 on chea pets and overpriced shampoo, just to show my support to THEM. They owe me money. And how silly of them to just shut it down, when it sits in their lot. I'm not looking for something for nothing; I thought we had some kismet here. Turns out they were just on the dole like everyone else...... Is there a vomit avatar? :?

 

[TimLee]

Did you guys see this picture over at plug in cars ?
http://www.plugincars.com/ecotality-aftermath-128541.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Did Blink ever do any change outs of the power terminations block, either commercial or residential?
Note that the fire occurred on unit that was operating at 3.8 kW, 16 amps.
My original Blink had overheating but no fire and was replaced under warranty August 2012.
Does anyone have info or model # for better power termination block that should be used instead?

 

[MikeD]

TimLee: The root cause of the overheating was attributed to an over-torqued termination screw whose threads (or perhaps that of the screw receiver) were stripped, i.e. it no longer applied sufficient contact force between the wire (possibly with a crimped-on ring connector connector?) and this now defective termination screw. I don't see that this means the terminations block used was inadequate or defective. Am I missing something?

This brings up an important relevant point IMO. Most termination screws on modern electrical devices (like a circuit breaker or a receptacle) have torque specifications that one is supposed to use. I don't think many homeowners who install such electrical devices in their homes have gone to the effort to find or expense of buying a torque screwdriver (or whatever) to properly tighten using the torque specifications, or like me bought one but don't consistently use it.

Note that under-torquing can obviously result in an unsafe loose termination and over-torquing on, say, bare wire can also cause the cross-sectional area of the wire to be mashed down/reduced to such an extent that it can no longer safely carry current that it is supposed to carry without overheating. (Note for the same reason an installer needs to be careful not to nick or bend wire at a sharp angle, because it can also seriously reduce the wire's cross-sectional area at that point at which it can subsequently overheat).

If I had such a device that overheated at a termination (and I didn't use my small torque wrench when I installed it), would it be fair for me to conclude the device was clearly at fault?

 

[TimLee]

TimLee: The root cause of the overheating was attributed to an over-torqued termination screw whose threads (or perhaps that of the screw receiver) were stripped, i.e. it no longer applied sufficient contact force between the wire (possibly with a crimped-on ring connector connector?) and this now defective termination screw. I don't see that this means the terminations block used was inadequate or defective. Am I missing something?
...
If I had such a device that overheated at a termination (and I didn't use my small torque wrench when I installed it), would it be fair for me to conclude the device was clearly at fault?

But it was the factory screw that was grossly loose.
I tend to believe Ingineer's evaluation that the terminal block design was inadequate for the service.
I think replacement with a well designed termination block is prudent and looking for information on the right choice.

... it was Blink's engineering that specified a crappy low-cost terminal block. It's a marginal part for 20A, let alone 30A! On top of that, it was not installed correctly.

Several people personally inspected Berman's unit, I was one of them. One of the factory screws was not very tight, and the middle one was loose enough you could actually see a gap in-between the pressure plate and the conductor. I'm not even sure it was tightened at all. I think this is what started it down a path of overheating. The overheating looks like it eventually carbonized the plastic and then an arc-over event occurred on the input side. ...
-Phil

Use of torque measuring driver is probably a good idea.
But I have observed quite a few electricians through my 45 years being involved in electrical work and have never seen one used.

 

[MikeD]

TimLee: I'm not an electrician and haven't had the training and apprenticeship mentoring that are required for them, but I recognize the importance and try to appreciate the standards of workmanship embodied in the NEC and DIY home electrical guides that I have bought to inform myself. I have observed a small sampling of 1950's built homes whose wiring was clearly modified by non-professionals which make me aware of the dangers of not being sufficiently informed (or in one flagrant instance perhaps having impaired judgment by age or even dementia -- which is also important for even expert electricians to consider as a possibility in themselves before attempting a project).

I am also aware of rampant corruption and incompetence combined with authoritarianism in this country and suggest people be very skeptical of any authority and employ techniques of doubt and critical thinking when evaluating the pronouncements of anyone.

In this case, if there were a design problem with this terminations block in the residential Blink, I would expect there would be multiple posts on this forum. Seeing none makes me discount your post suggesting faulty design as the primary cause of failure.

Also I don't know why you chose to ignore (and elide) the (I think) reasonable warnings to DIYfers, even though it was not particularly relevant to your post. Most people should be interested in reasoned discourse and therefore perhaps learning something useful for themselves, and not caring about who won a verbal scuffle.

 

[TimLee]

... Most people should be interested in reasoned discourse and therefore perhaps learning something useful for themselves, and not caring about who won a verbal scuffle.

I have zero interest in the verbal scuffle you were pursuing with Ingineer earlier in the thread.
I agree with his judgement on the design and I am just looking for input on how to best correct the design.

 

[MikeD]

TimLee: The verbal scuffle I was referring to was this one with you.

 

[TimLee]

TimLee: The verbal scuffle I was referring to was this one with you.

What scuffle?
You just want to resurrect your verbal scuffle from earlier in the thread with Ingineer.
All I want is useful input on the best terminal block replacement for the Blink.

 

[pchilds]

All I want is useful input on the best terminal block replacement for the Blink.

With only one known failure, in three plus years, of this terminal block and it being due to improper final assembly. Why are you so fixated on replacing this terminal block? I have tested my Blink at 40 amps with no overheating issues. I have the ungraded J1772 cable.

 

[Valdemar]

While the terminal block does look flimsy and out of place my Blink has been rock solid for almost 3 years. I don't trust the Rema plug so it will have to go when I'm ready to pull more than 3.3kW, other than that I have no complaints.

 

[TimLee]

With only one known failure, in three plus years, of this terminal block and it being due to improper final assembly. Why are you so fixated on replacing this terminal block? ...

My first Blink was also replaced due to overheating.
Maybe not two full blown fires, but it was a failure.
I just don't think leaving an inadequate design in place waiting for fire failure is a very good plan??

I agree the risk of fire failure is modest, just wanted to find the proper replacement for when I get around to replacing it.