I seem to recall someone claiming that it was 10 amps (at 12 volts) briefly needed to get the contactors to close. I wouldn't be surprised if it were a little more or less, though.
LeftieBiker said:I seem to recall someone claiming that it was 10 amps (at 12 volts) briefly needed to get the contactors to close. I wouldn't be surprised if it were a little more or less, though.
GerryAZ said:Sorry about the long post--I was tired and did not proofread/edit it before posting. I wanted to make it clear that the car would not go into READY mode until I cleared a bunch of error codes. I should try to post a photo of the error code listing to show all of the errors that can be caused by a weak 12V battery. I was able to jump start the 2011 and 2015 when their OEM batteries failed and then later clear codes when I replaced the batteries, but the 2019 would not move until I cleared a bunch of codes while the jumper cables were still attached. I know I jump started the 2011 with some 14 AWG test leads I had in my office vehicle, but never tried to measure the current.
GerryAZ said:Sorry about the long post--I was tired and did not proofread/edit it before posting.
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