Adjunct battery packs?

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

danielsantos

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Messages
14
My 2013 Leaf is down to 8 bars and I'll surely loose another come summer. Having recently sold my house, I finally have the money to either replace/upgrade batteries or buy a new car. I'm excited about the prospect of a 40kWh LiFePO₄ battery pack from EVs Enhanced, but it's not ready yet. Since I was already looking at 48V LiFePO₄ battery packs as a possible solution to my in-car 110V AC supply, I started thinking about larger adjunctive battery packs serving as an supplement to the main battery pack.

I do a fair amount of electrical engineering at my job as a firmware engineer, but I don't do a lot of power electronics and have never actually worked on high voltage circuits, so I'll have a lot to learn in this endeavour. This isn't a particularly efficient idea, because we'll need a current-limiting boost converter to match the voltage of the main battery pack, and then the car's inverter will chop it again with each conversion incurring an efficiency loss, but I believe the idea should work.

(I'll still need to work out how to make sure we don't accidentally charge the main battery pack -- this is an area I'm not that experienced with. But speaking naively, sticking a big fat diode on the main battery would only waste about 0.4% of the total power and dissipate 400W of heat in the very worst case.)

There will need to be a CAN bridge (with computer) in between the main battery pack and the system CAN bus. Adjunct battery pack(s) will need to report their current consumption/expenditure so that all current data can be aggregated and properly reported to the system CAN bus, leaving the rest of the system to see a single battery pack.

Has anybody worked on anything similar to this before? It would be nice to have a $1-2k USD way to reliably extend an old Leaf's range by at least a small amount. Perhaps it could even serve as the sole (if temporary) power source when having a battery pack rebuilt or such. If LiFePO₄ batteries indeed reach $56/kWh this year, then it should be possible to add 12kWh to the trunk (theoretically, 55L of the 679.6L of trunk space) for $672 + hardware, controller, some thermal management, boost converter, maybe a bit of crash safety hardware, etc.

Of course, I would still want to be able to draw from it for other uses (110 inverter, etc.).
 
Muxsan built such a device. The engineering to do it properly and safely while not triggering vehicle codes was considerable. I do not recommend this. If you want one, see if Muxsan has one for sale.

Consider swapping with a 40kWh leaf battery (see Dala's canbus adapter) or if you're really adventurous, with a custom battery made out of CATL cells from China.
 
Hi! I have a company specializing in range extender batteries. In short - building it as a range extender battery that also works properly with reverse-engineered car electronics is hard. It took us about 2 years to have a product that wouldn't have people come back all the time (~2018-2020). It takes a company to do this properly.

One of the big issues you're going to have with a small added battery is that you can't really guarantee how the packs are loaded during normal use. For instance, if you have a 24kWh Leaf where basically all your capacity sits between 370-395V, in order to use most of your LFP or NMC pack, you also want to use the 320-370V range (where the other 50%+ of your capacity sits). That means that when you're driving with the batteries at 350V, the extender pack is delivering like 80% of the current. If you're accelerating at 80kW, 64kW comes from that 12kWh extender battery, which will be discharging at 5C+. Also, your cabling will need to be pretty beefy to cope with that, or you'll get such a large voltage excursion on the main battery that the car will throw a fit.
 
Muxsan built such a device. The engineering to do it properly and safely while not triggering vehicle codes was considerable. I do not recommend this. If you want one, see if Muxsan has one for sale.

Consider swapping with a 40kWh leaf battery (see Dala's canbus adapter) or if you're really adventurous, with a custom battery made out of CATL cells from China.
Thank you Lothsahn! It's good to know that somebody is already doing this! Even if it's a proprietary, commercial enterprise. I would really like to see a solution out there in the FOSS / open hardware space and would prefer to use LiFePO₄.

Thanks for the lead on CATL. This is the first time I'm actually digging into this type of thing as it's the first time I actually have the money and need to actually do something serious. I suppose the other challenge then is finding a reasonable dealer to buy the batteries from?

I think I want to build a small scale prototype of my concept using a tiny 1kWh battery pack and controller and test that out. All-in-all, I'm feeling like I might want to make a slight pivot in my career. I work on satellite communications firmware (ground stuff) now so I do a fair bit of electrical engineering, though it's mostly software. I might feel more fulfilled working in an area that has an environmental benefit.

Also, I think I'm going to get registered with the local auto auction (I live near Dallas) and keep an eye out for a wrecked Leaf as a means of getting a cheap, used battery pack to transplant. My life is a 2013.
 
Hi! I have a company specializing in range extender batteries. In short - building it as a range extender battery that also works properly with reverse-engineered car electronics is hard. It took us about 2 years to have a product that wouldn't have people come back all the time (~2018-2020). It takes a company to do this properly.

One of the big issues you're going to have with a small added battery is that you can't really guarantee how the packs are loaded during normal use. For instance, if you have a 24kWh Leaf where basically all your capacity sits between 370-395V, in order to use most of your LFP or NMC pack, you also want to use the 320-370V range (where the other 50%+ of your capacity sits). That means that when you're driving with the batteries at 350V, the extender pack is delivering like 80% of the current. If you're accelerating at 80kW, 64kW comes from that 12kWh extender battery, which will be discharging at 5C+. Also, your cabling will need to be pretty beefy to cope with that, or you'll get such a large voltage excursion on the main battery that the car will throw a fit.

Hello mux! Thank you for sharing your experience! My concept is slightly different however, though I won't say it's the best idea. My plan is to put a current-limiting, boost power supply between the adjunct battery and the LBC-PDM junction so that I have precise control over both current and voltage. Unfortunately, I have to run for a dr appointment, so will write more later!
 
That's definitely a solution to those problems. But doesn't that reintroduce a lot of inefficiency you were trying to avoid?
 
That's definitely a solution to those problems. But doesn't that reintroduce a lot of inefficiency you were trying to avoid?
Well, that's what I'm going to examine. I'm researching various circuits and I'll probably set up a SPICE simulation to see how it does.
 
You're rolling your own bidirectional DC/DC? I really wouldn't without a whole lot of experience in this field (saying that as a design engineer specialized in electrical power processing). I wouldn't touch this personally, just for the amount of smoke you'll be able to produce with little effort :p

There's companies that do this kind of stuff and have nice solutions already. Bel Fuse is the highend (we call them the 'rolls royce' of dc/dc converters), but e.g. Deligreen and Dilong in China make/sell decent quality dc/dc converters for automotive, right in the kind of power range you'd need, with CAN control.
 
An idea similar to yours was done over a decade ago. ~2011-2012?

The company added-on a modest low voltage pack and stepped it up to high voltage that trickle charged the main pack.

4, 8 or 12 kWh of 48V batteries, a 5kW DC/DC inverter to boost to 360-400V, which is injected onto HV bus

It was not bi-directional.

The add-on pack was tapped into the charger area of the system.

The add-on pack had a separate 48 charger of it's own for refilling the add-on pack.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top