EVforRobert
Well-known member
Exhaust leaks, rusting mufflers, smog checks.
joeriv said:1. Changing Brake pads (with regen)
2. Oil stains in the garage
3. Engine noise
4. Gas stations closed
5. OPEC severely limiting oil production
6. Tune ups
bigbearballs said:joeriv said:1. Changing Brake pads (with regen)
2. Oil stains in the garage
3. Engine noise
4. Gas stations closed
5. OPEC severely limiting oil production
6. Tune ups
No transmission or timing belt, right?
LeftieBiker said:No worry about having to use the car regularly to stop it from wearing out more quickly from disuse. Put a 12 volt battery maintainer on a Leaf and you can go a month between drives.
A lot of Leaf drivers come from driving a Prius, and have gotten hooked by that on having the engine stop when it isn't needed.
Evoforce said:No more:
Replacing standard oil pump
Replacing standard water pump
Replacing alternator
Replacing gas filter/fuel pump
Replacing oil filter
Replacing vacuum hoses
Replacing injectors or carb
Replacing cracked heads
Replacing oxygen sensor and many other sensors emissions /fuel related
Replacing catalytic converter/other emission equipment
Replacing lifters, cams, crank, pistons, rods or block
Replacing standard radiator hoses
Replacing starter and flywheel
Replacing Idler pulleys/fans/belts
Etc... Yea!
bigbearballs said:The dealership I bought the car from gave me a book with a coupon for a free oil change. Hahahahaha!
Evoforce said:Now for a different way of looking at the whole subject. We would like to know some Leafspy numbers. Many people are/will be kicking themselves because they babied the battery too much and are just barely going to miss out on the warranty replacement.
While there is a capacity (but not new battery replacement) warranty on your car, Nissan lately, as a business practice, has been replacing them instead of repairing. My belief is that they will continue to do that with all year Leafs even though they are not legally bound to do so. There has been some precedence set with the 2011-12 Leafs and the court settlement along with their current business policy. They have tried to repair cars in hot climates before only to have them quickly degrade back to 8 bars again with the car still under 5 years/60,000 miles. Then they have to put the (new) pack in after attempting to repair. It costs them more money to do it that way. Twice the labor plus the new battery.
If you use your car normally, in Texas, you probably will have a 8 bar car well before the warranty expires unless you drive an excessive amount of miles and it appears you won't. If you baby it, you will probably still qualify (or barely not) but closer to 5 years/60,000. They could more easily decide to repair it so close to the finish line just to get you over the time/mileage if they go back to repairing them.
Keep in mind if they do give you a (new) replacement it only has a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty but cannot be shorter calendar/mileage than when original capacity warranty would have originally expired. Your calendar degradation in Texas will rapidly march on whether driven or not. Batteries are lasting a little over 2 years in Arizona and possibly close to 3 years if babied and climate controlled in garages. It took my car only 7 months to degrade from a 10 bar car to a 8 bar car. IMO I would not wreck havoc on your soul to only gain 6-8 months of more time. Don't abuse it, but expect that it was not built durable enough to handle your climate. So, your strategy is up to you. Good luck!
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