2013/2014 Nissan Leaf Lease Information

[morlglums]

At ~35 miles round trip I think I can get away with just the 120V trickle charge.

With that much of a regular round trip, I would be afraid that I would quickly get into a "charging deficit" by only using a 120v charger. I would hate to be in a situation with less battery charge than I would feel comfortable seeing.

Here's a quick shot of my Carwings showing how long it would take on a 120v to get it up to full charge based on my current battery level. I've driven less than 35 miles since the last full charge and it would take seven hours to get back to full. Maybe you are more comfortable with that than I am, but that would make me nervous.

Bateman;

I know this is getting OT for this thread, but if I get home at 6pm after 35 miles round trip and then don't have to leave again until 8am, can't I get back to a full charge with the trickle charge overnight? I am very new to all this (3 days ago I wasn't even thinking of an EV...) and am devouring info as fast as I can, so any tips you can provide are welcome.

Thanks.

-m

 

[LeftieBiker]

At ~35 miles round trip I think I can get away with just the 120V trickle charge.

With that much of a regular round trip, I would be afraid that I would quickly get into a "charging deficit" by only using a 120v charger. I would hate to be in a situation with less battery charge than I would feel comfortable seeing.

Here's a quick shot of my Carwings showing how long it would take on a 120v to get it up to full charge based on my current battery level. I've driven less than 35 miles since the last full charge and it would take seven hours to get back to full. Maybe you are more comfortable with that than I am, but that would make me nervous.

Bateman;

I know this is getting OT for this thread, but if I get home at 6pm after 35 miles round trip and then don't have to leave again until 8am, can't I get back to a full charge with the trickle charge overnight? I am very new to all this (3 days ago I wasn't even thinking of an EV...) and am devouring info as fast as I can, so any tips you can provide are welcome.

Thanks.

-m

I'm using 120 volts for a 45-50 mile round trip commute. Getting back to 94% charge is easy, taking less than 12 hours, but after that it tends to become an ever-receding goal to get to 100% at 120 volts. I suggest you plan based on 94% charge.

 

[Corina1231]

At ~35 miles round trip I think I can get away with just the 120V trickle charge.


..................................


Gentlemen, there is a companion thread for just this topic which contains a lot of good information that may be helpful to you:

Range / Efficiency / Carwings

 

[Corina1231]

OMG....
Yesterday, I contacted 12 dealership near my place here in SoCal via email.

The best quotes I got so far are as follows:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2013 NISSAN LEAF SV Pearl white with gray interior. LED/ Quick Charge package.
1000 out of pocket
24mth lease with 12k miles per year. Payment is 296.33 including taxes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I worked up an aggressive quote for you on the Leaf SV with QC on a 24 month lease and 12,000 miles with only $1000 down.

The total price would be $265 + tax.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How do you guys get such a great deal?

Jijo,

Knowledge, patience and perseverance.

We on this forum occasionally hear of someone who has success through emailing dealers, but it is by far the exception not the norm. Dealers notoriously hide the ball, and almost always highball customers. Why? It's pretty simple. It works sometimes on folks who don't know what to pay, are in a hurry because they need a car, or just do not want to play the game. So the dealer hits what in the industry is known as a "home run" on these people. In other words they make a huge profit on them. Let's call them Group 1.

Or, the dealer gets the second best result. This is when the unknowledgeable buyer gets the dealer to come down a few hundred or so off the highball price and the buyer thinks they got "a good deal". But, of course, they really didn't, because the whole time they were negotiating in the area of the dealer's highball prices. Let's call these poor folks Group 2.

Dealers make a lot of money off people who are not knowledgeable, who are impatient, or who give up without a fight. Sad as it is, these folks in group 1 and 2 make it possible for the rest of us (KNOWLEDGEABLE people who know what to pay and have the PATIENCE and PERSEVERANCE to make it happen) to get great deals, because as dealers will tell you, "it all averages out".

If you survey buyers, 80% or more would say they got "a good deal". In actuality, that number is probably reversed. A dealer won't respect you as a buyer until you prove to them they aren't going to hit a home run on you. The best way to do this is to go into each dealership, show your face and play the game. Since they are better at it than we they will often still win. But, this is usually the only way to get them to take you seriously as a buyer. And if you show them you know what to pay, stay patient and have the perseverance not to succumb to their pressure techniques you will ultimately get a good or great deal.

A great deal is not usually not going to drop into your lap or on to a computer screen. The dealer is banking that you'll be too lazy to play the game (which may include walking away and/or playing several dealers against each other) and earn a good deal or they will just plain wear you down. It's a game of chicken, and if you play it well you can beat them. Why? Because once commission salespeople have invested their time in you they don't want a deal to get away. They are like an animal who got their first taste of blood and are about to have it taken from them. And it is only then that you can prevail.

Cheers!

Ron

 

[Reddy]

Using just L1 (12 Amp, 120 VAC) has been discussed numerous times before. Yes, you can easily commute 35 - 40 mi RT. Using L1 in the winter, 50 mi might be a stretch in certain areas, nearly impossible in others. Also, remember that you don't "have" to charge to 100%. You can start Mon AM at 100%, recharging through the week until maybe only getting back to 80% on Friday. Look at your realistic weekly average miles and if it's more than 300 mi, then be concerned if you live in a cold winter area. If you have another car for emergencies or longer weekend trips, then use that one. Just because we don't "want" to drive on gas anymore, doesn't mean you "have to".

Here are just a few links (search my name and L1 and you will certainly find more):
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=10776&p=247635#p247635

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

At ~35 miles round trip I think I can get away with just the 120V trickle charge.

I have yet to see ANYONE on this board, the half dozen FB groups I am a member of or any other association I am aware of, that was able to drive their LEAF for commuting only

don't fool yourself. your other car will be VERY lonely with a OVERWHELMING feeling of neglect once your LEAF arrives. Be prepared, get L2 charging. the EVSE upgrade from Phil is a great and economical way to do it.

**edit** I take that back. I actually know four people who have relegated their LEAF to commuting only.

their "other" cars?

2 Teslas, a RAV 4 EV and another LEAF

 

[Bateman]

At ~35 miles round trip I think I can get away with just the 120V trickle charge.

I have yet to see ANYONE on this board, the half dozen FB groups I am a member of or any other association I am aware of, that was able to drive their LEAF for commuting only

don't fool yourself. your other car will be VERY lonely with a OVERWHELMING feeling of neglect once your LEAF arrives. Be prepared, get L2 charging. the EVSE upgrade from Phil is a great and economical way to do it.

Yep exactly. M, this is where I was going with this. Sure you could mathematically get away with 120v chargeing for commuting only, but our 'weekday commuter car Leaf' becomes our weekend cruiser for all trips within range. That's only possible with a quick charger.

 

[morlglums]

Dave;

You could be right. I only put ~6000 miles a year on my current car (13 years old, 78000 original miles...). I might start using the Leaf to zip around town in place of bike or walk, but parking would still be a pain...

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Dave;

You could be right. I only put ~6000 miles a year on my current car (13 years old, 78000 original miles...). I might start using the Leaf to zip around town in place of bike or walk, but parking would still be a pain...

I think you will succumb to the disease known as "EV Fever."

main symptoms; inventing reasons to go somewhere which may include volunteering to give rides, take on extra car pool assignments or late night runs for "craving foods" (or any other excuse that involves taking a drive) or becoming forgetful which creates addition trips to the store to get things that were on the list but somehow overlooked anyway.

To alleviate the severity of the symptoms the #1 recommended treatment is allowing friends and relatives to take test drives. This does not cure anything but the old adage "misery loves company" is very effective in cases like these. This allows you to form a "12 step EV addiction" club with your friends and relatives...

 

[LilasGardenLeaf]

Hello to All -
first time to post in this forum after spending a good week studying posts.
Just got offered on a first try this from a Charlotte, NC Nissan dealer without any type of negotiation to date

2013 Nissan LEAF SV - Pearl White
Floor Mats, Cargo Net, Premium Package

MSRP 33,915
Dealer Discount $2,000
Nissan Rebate $7,500

Total Purchase - $24,415.00
Admin Fees - $699.00
State & Local Taxes $233.16
Title & Licensing $784.00

Net Price $26,131,16
Balance (?) $26,855.45

I have no idea what the difference ($724.29) between the net price and the Balance represents....

Lease Offer Deal Data based on 12 k/ Yr
24 months, MF 0.00156 with 2k down $260.75 Monthly Pyt

This equals $6,258 + $395.00 Dispo Fee = 6,653.00 for the 2 year term

As a first shot - given that North Carolina is not really EV friendly territory - does this represent a workable deal in the forum's opinion? Again, to this point I have not stepped into the dealership nor done any kind of price negotiation over the phone.
Is the Administrative Fee related to bank/ Lease doc fees, or is this simply a fee to pad the dealer profit?

Appreciate any comments - thanks.

 

[LilasGardenLeaf]

Hello again -

An additional request: Is there an updated Excel Lease Spreadsheet that I can use for NC which takes into account that the down payment already contains the first monthly lease payment?

Thank you very much...

 

[VAMike13]

I posted this a while ago to a new topic by mistake. I meant to post here:

Did I make a mistake?

I just leased an SL with Premium package today and I'm worried I made a mistake. I'm in Virginia. I know I didn't get the greatest deal: $2000 down + 24 payments of $280 = $8720 not counting the disposition fee of course. I was holding firm on my request for $8600 total. But this was the best they would give me and they were giving me a good price on my trade. I don't have much problem with the price. Here's what I'm upset about. I rushed them some because my wife and I didn't have a lot of time to deal with it. So maybe they were rushing a little too. It still took longer than I had.

But they wouldn't answer my questions ahead of time. Every answer was "oh they will talk about that in finance." By the time I got there, I forgot all of my questions.

1. They tried to sell me 2 years of maintenance up front for $279. It's 20% more if you pay as you go and take it to the dealer? Is everyone else paying this much for them to rotate tires, check breaks and whatever else they do just twice a year? Can I take it somewhere else?

2. I kept asking about cost of accessories but then forgot about it at some point until after I was done because they kept pushing the question off until later. Apparently accessories cost the same whether you are leasing or buying. So I would own these accessories after the two years that are useless to me without the car and I probably would not be able to sell them. I thought there would be some sort of lease price for accessories. Does anyone know anything about this? I was looking at the trunk organizer and wheel locks.

3. They don't have the car right now so they gave me a Rogue to drive until it comes in. They said they could change the date of the start of the lease when it comes in. I hope they will do that. Is that a normal thing? I don't want to have the Leaf for less than the 24 months.

4. Just a funny story about my trade. 2004 Acura TSX. I asked $9000 for it. They came back $6000. We laughed. The KBB trade-in value for it in fair condition (it's in at least good condition) is $8400. I wasn't really expecting to give me a good number so I wasn't planning to trade it in but that was ridiculous. They came back to me twice on it after I said no and finally got up to $9000. They must have thought they could rob me blind.

Any input would be appreciated whether it is to make me feel better about my deal or to tell me to cancel the whole thing. I just didn't think I would have to pay a lot of extra money for maintenance and accessories.

Thanks.

 

[Corina1231]

I posted this a while ago to a new topic by mistake. I meant to post here:

Did I make a mistake?

I just leased an SL with Premium package today and I'm worried I made a mistake. I'm in Virginia. I know I didn't get the greatest deal: $2000 down + 24 payments of $280 = $8720 not counting the disposition fee of course. I was holding firm on my request for $8600 total. But this was the best they would give me and they were giving me a good price on my trade. I don't have much problem with the price. Here's what I'm upset about. I rushed them some because my wife and I didn't have a lot of time to deal with it. So maybe they were rushing a little too. It still took longer than I had.

But they wouldn't answer my questions ahead of time. Every answer was "oh they will talk about that in finance." By the time I got there, I forgot all of my questions.

1. They tried to sell me 2 years of maintenance up front for $279. It's 20% more if you pay as you go and take it to the dealer? Is everyone else paying this much for them to rotate tires, check breaks and whatever else they do just twice a year? Can I take it somewhere else?

2. I kept asking about cost of accessories but then forgot about it at some point until after I was done because they kept pushing the question off until later. Apparently accessories cost the same whether you are leasing or buying. So I would own these accessories after the two years that are useless to me without the car and I probably would not be able to sell them. I thought there would be some sort of lease price for accessories. Does anyone know anything about this? I was looking at the trunk organizer and wheel locks.

Any input would be appreciated whether it is to make me feel better about my deal or to tell me to cancel the whole thing. I just didn't think I would have to pay a lot of extra money for maintenance and accessories.

Thanks.

VaMike,
Ok, last time you posted I think I told you not to take the deal you were offered. Now I have to say this looks very good, especially for VA. You are only paying about $500 more than I helped a friend get last week here in NorCal for the same specs. And 2 other dealers had quoted him $9300 plus dispo. So for VA, your deal is great. Congratulations!

You absolutely CAN rotate your own tires and check this and that, or have someone else do it. This car is virtually maintenance free. You need their service package like you need a hole in the head.

The dealer is right on the accessories. Those are not items everyone would want if they buy your car later so they have no value to the dealer. You can always ask them to sell you them at cost as a courtesy (50% of the retail) or do what most people would do and buy them on the Internet for less than dealer retail.

 

[Corina1231]

Hello to All -
first time to post in this forum after spending a good week studying posts.
Just got offered on a first try this from a Charlotte, NC Nissan dealer without any type of negotiation to date

2013 Nissan LEAF SV - Pearl White
Floor Mats, Cargo Net, Premium Package

MSRP 33,915
Dealer Discount $2,000
Nissan Rebate $7,500

Total Purchase - $24,415.00
Admin Fees - $699.00
State & Local Taxes $233.16
Title & Licensing $784.00

Net Price $26,131,16
Balance (?) $26,855.45

I have no idea what the difference ($724.29) between the net price and the Balance represents....

Lease Offer Deal Data based on 12 k/ Yr
24 months, MF 0.00156 with 2k down $260.75 Monthly Pyt

This equals $6,258 + $395.00 Dispo Fee = 6,653.00 for the 2 year term

As a first shot - given that North Carolina is not really EV friendly territory - does this represent a workable deal in the forum's opinion? Again, to this point I have not stepped into the dealership nor done any kind of price negotiation over the phone.
Is the Administrative Fee related to bank/ Lease doc fees, or is this simply a fee to pad the dealer profit?

Appreciate any comments - thanks.

Lila,
It's high for NC. Probably by about $800 to $1000. Check out the much nicer deal your fellow Tarheel, KRmax, got on their car (p.82) which had an $800 HIGHER MSRP, but they paid $500 LESS for their lease on the same terms.

 

[BillyM]

Did a 24-month lease on an SL. I was under time pressure because I wanted to get the free L2 charger/install for California before they ran out, so I paid $6,500 total for the lease.

Thanks to Ron for his kind support.

 

[TheCowGod]

Hey guys. We just picked up our 2013 SV and we love it, but reading these threads, it kinda seems like I got a really bad deal. I arguent with them for two hours trying to get my numbers down to the mid-200's monthly payments so many of you seem to get, but it really seemed like we had gone as far as we could go, so I agreed to the deal below. Did I get screwed?

I don't have all of the numbers that it was suggested I supply -- I don't see many of them on my lease paperwork. But here's my info:

State : Tennessee
State Sales tax % : 7.0%
Leaf Trim, options : SV, LED/QC, splash guards, floor & cargo mats, cargo floor organizer
MSRP : $34,840 including $850 dest charge
Taxes, Title, Registration : $595 acquisition fee, $80 "single article tax", $98 reg, $821.45 "tax on capitalized cost reduction"
Negative equity in trade-in: $3265.91
Money Factor : 0.00186 (tier 1)
Down payment : $5600
Monthly payment : $365.53


We traded in a vehicle that owed $9265, and it had some body damage so they gave us $6k for the car, leaving $3265 in negative equity. We put $5600 down, so $3265 of that canceled out the negative equity in the trade-in, leaving an effective down payment of $2335.

My credit score was 691, which put me in Tier 2, but just below the threshold (700 is the cutoff). She "made a call" and was able to offer us tier 1 pricing.

We did a 24-month lease, with effectively $2335 down as I described. Monthly payments are $365.53 ($341.62 + 23.91 tax). Total cost of payments is $8772.72, and the disposition fee is $395, so total cost of lease is $9167.72. Residual value is $20,904.

There's lots of other numbers on the paperwork, but I'm not sure which are useful to repeat here. Is the above information enough to give me some advice about my deal? Or is there anything else I can provide that would help? I have a feeling it's not a very good deal, but I guess I'd like to understand WHY it's not, so I know what to do better next time. Thanks guys.

Dan

Edit 1: Correcting and simplifying the down payment/trade-in details.
Edit 2: Called dealer and got my MF, filled in some more info
Edit 3: Correcting 9.25% state + county tax to just the 7.0% state tax

 

[Corina1231]

Did a 24-month lease on an SL. I was under time pressure because I wanted to get the free L2 charger/install for California before they ran out, so I paid $6,500 total for the lease.

Thanks to Ron for his kind support.

You are very welcome. Glad you were able to get the sweet deal!!!

Cheers!

Ron

 

[braineo]

Dave;

You could be right. I only put ~6000 miles a year on my current car (13 years old, 78000 original miles...). I might start using the Leaf to zip around town in place of bike or walk, but parking would still be a pain...

I think you will succumb to the disease known as "EV Fever."

main symptoms; inventing reasons to go somewhere which may include volunteering to give rides, take on extra car pool assignments or late night runs for "craving foods" (or any other excuse that involves taking a drive) or becoming forgetful which creates addition trips to the store to get things that were on the list but somehow overlooked anyway.

To alleviate the severity of the symptoms the #1 recommended treatment is allowing friends and relatives to take test drives. This does not cure anything but the old adage "misery loves company" is very effective in cases like these. This allows you to form a "12 step EV addiction" club with your friends and relatives...

Step 1
I admit I'm a Leaf addict.

Step 2
My addiction started a few months before getting my "fix" from a dealer.

Step 3
It can"t be cured unless Tesla administers a model X at a reasonable price.

 

[techgurru]

Well, I leased a Leaf! Here are the numbers

State : Oregon
Sales tax % : 0
Leaf Trim, options: 2013 SV w/ Premium Package + Floor Mats +Zero Emission Graphics + VIN Etch + Door Edge Guards + Nitrogen
MSRP : $34,487
Invoice : $32,126
Negotiated Price : Adjusted Cap Cost? $24,330.74
Taxes, Title, Registration : $158 (I am bringing in my personal plates)
Any other fees (doc, administrative, marketing etc) : Bank Fee $595
Money Factor : .00201 (My credit is at Tier 4, but they got me a 2-Tier bump exception)
Downpayment : $500.00
Monthly payment : $252.74
Term: 24/mo 12K miles
This offer also considers the $7,500 tax credit as part of the down payment.

I really wanted an SV with no options in Metallic Slate because I MUST have CARWINGS, but there are ZERO around. All Slate vehicles seem to have either Premium or LED/QC packages on them. I have a 30 mile round trip commute so I dont think I would take advantage of the QC anyway. I think I may like Bose speakers as I can make use of them each second I am diving the Leaf
My goal is $199/mo with $500 down but I think I am dreaming unless I settle for a Base S. So $53 dollars a month extra for an SV and a huge list of options wasn't bad was it?

Anyone care to reply if it was a decent deal?

 

[GlennD]

I really do not understand the is this a good deal posts. You have signed the lease so its a done deal.

No matter how good your deal is someone will claim a better deal just to make you feel bad.