2012 I-Key System Fault and Cannot shift into gear

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

squarewave

New member
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
Messages
3
I have a 2012 Leaf with an I-Key System fault with an inability to shift into Drive or Reverse that I would like help diagnosing. Here is how I got here:

After driving normally down to a range of 15 miles or so, I parked my Leaf. Through a series of unusual circumstances, I did not charge the car again for about a week. I plugged the car in for several hours at 120V. Charging started normally. Before charge was complete, I needed to run an errand. I unplugged the charger and entered the car and got a "I-Key System Fault" immediately. I was unable to shift into any gear, and the display was also indicating to set the parking brake. The battery had charged to about 60% or so (range of 42 miles showing). Below is a picture of the dash display.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13W7i_TXNjAIvBXEOSKHeF4ZVlusmsRsW/view?usp=sharing

I pulled the DTC codes using LeafSpy, below is the result.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Wv5zamA4OHln3Td43FK_bV1F-QOZRpm/view?usp=sharing

Searching this forum, I tried numerous things suggested in previous posts related to this same issue. I replaced the battery in my key fob, even though the fob was able to lock and unlock the doors. I saw indications that the 12V battery may be an issue, so I charged it as it appeared it was low. That didn't work so I temporarily put one in from a different vehicle. Tried again various resetting procedures to no avail. I also checked all of the fuses in hope of finding some simple fix. No joy.

I called the local (30 miles away) Nissan dealer, and they offered no help other than having towed to them and they could do toubleshooting for $150 (1 hr minimum). Confident that the issue would be some simple reset, and since I have free roadside assistance on my insurance, I had it towed to them. Turns out the $150 fee was used up in just pulling the DTCs (which I had done in less than 10 minutes). Needless to say, I am quite disappointed as I expected a little more than a list of codes.

I plan to get the car back and do some work on it myself. 2012 parts seem plentiful on eBay, and it seems that I can replace several modules for the cost of several more hours of diagnostic work and then the dealer price of a replacement module for a defective one.

Given the list of DTCs, are there any that stick out as being the likely culprit for my problem? Any that are likely to be caused by a failure of some other module? Any insight or previous experience with this problem would be greatly appreciated!
 
It's not guaranteed to work, but sometimes DTCs can be hard to lose even after the issue is resolved. They may need to be cleared several times with LeafSpy Pro, and/or by leaving the 12 volt battery disconnected for 15+ minutes. While it's disconnected, charge it with an external charger again. If nothinbg else, you will then know which remaining ones are real. Others will chime in on this. Good luck.
 
After clearing the DTCs numerous times, the following are the ones consistently reappearing:

B2603 0009 BCM Shift Position SEC-79
P318A 00C0 EV/HEV Elec Shift System EVC-252
P189F 000A SHIFT
P18A0 000A SHIFT
 
Researching these codes leads me to believe either the Body Control Module or the Shift Control Unit is bad. If I am reading correctly, the BCM must be "programmed" to my VIN, and my keys registered into the replacement BCM. Given this, I assume I cannot determine if the replacement BCM fixes the problem prior to the programming. Is this correct? Also, is there any programming required in replacing the Shift Control Unit?

Are there any issues with buying replacement modules on eBay? Can they be programmed successfully, or can only "blank" new dealer supplied be programmed?

Thanks for any insight that can be provided!
 
Back
Top