First-time poster here - apologies for mis-posting, etc.
TL;DR - the meat of the question begins at 4. below.
1. I'm in the market for an EV, having watched from the sidelines for a few years, and when the 2005 RAV4 needed more emissions work thatn the car was worth, I decided to take the plunge (or to try to)...
2. I test drove a 2019 Leaf SV plus, +/- 13k miles, $25k, in California, in great cosmetic shape, a real indulgence to me having never contemplated even half this cost before on a car. I test drove the Tesla 3, Bolt, and BMW i3, and on a lark, test drove the leaf at a used EV specialist dealer's lot, and liked it...a lot. I understand the workings of ICE cars, and watched all the videos on the bolt, since that is what I assumed I'd buy (even though, my heart wasn't really into it styling-wise, although I deeply admire the engineering LG Chem did with that car).
3. I bought the Leaf, charged it at a chademo station, and immediately thereafter, the car threw a "service EV system" and turtle mode...on day 2 of ownership. I spoke with the seller, and we agreed to extend the 3 day rescind period another 14 days while I take it to the dealer for service (still under warranty). I'd really really rather have this leaf than the bolt, but all this guy has are Bolts and other cars I'm not interested in.
4. So, I bought leafspy pro and an OBDII sensor, and it shows some things that I can't quite sort out. It appears to show a fault in cell...67? 68?, but also, the odometer reading on leafspy is far different than the car's odometer. car shows over 13k miles, leafspy pro shows 8,500 miles. all the youtube videos show a discrepancy of 1 or 2 miles. So there's that. Also, the VIN keeps jumping around and showing different numbers, cycling every few seconds.
I've attached (hopefully) some leafspy pro screenshots and would be grateful for the collective expert opinion(s).
Thanks in advance.