bobsfreeleaf wrote: TonyWilliams wrote:
drees wrote:The GOM does seem pretty accurate compared to older cars. I assume it still increases the GOM by 10% when putting the car into ECO mode from D? I noted that the car said 77 miles at the beginning of the video - I presume that the 84 you saw was after putting it into ECO mode.
Hi all: It took two overnight sessions to charge back to 100% on the trickle charge after the test. When I reviewed the GOM this morning at 100% charge I had 102 miles. I put it in gear (to see if it functioning properly and it dropped to 100 immediately). Since my highest noted number was in the high 80's before, is this a matter of the car liking Tony's driving style, or somethings else? I previously thought it was a function of the KWM indicator (which read 4.1-4.2 before and after the test). There must be more to this than I understand. Thx, Bob
This is pretty standard GOM performance. It relies on your past performance to guess how far you'll drive in the future, but it's going to be rarely right. For instance, our total drive at my garage was 90 miles, and that was virtually at Turtle. There was not a chance the car would go much closer to 100, yet through the wonder of GOM programming (producing 4 trees through steady driving, particularly the last almost 20 miles (13 miles from VLB "---" to my house, and another 7 to your house at slower speeds) has concluded 100 miles is in the bag.
If you want to REALLY know how far the car is likely to go, do not use the GOM. In a nutshell, as long as that car has that new smell, and it doesn't get too cold, your battery will have 21kWh available. If you start every day by resetting your dash trip meter and dash economy setting (the miles/kWh), you will have an excellent tools to determine your range. It will always be "miles/kWh * 21 = range" until the battery either gets cold, starts to degrade, or both. If you can keep daily economy at 4 (or above), the car will have a range of 4 * 21 = 84 miles.
In the first year to 18 months, expect 10% degradation to 18.9kWh, and before you turn the car in at 36-39 months, expect 15-20% or 16.8kWh. Therefore, if you're still getting 4 miles/kWh, then 4 * 16.8 = 67.2 miles of range.
Then, should the car EVER get to freezing temps (30F), subtract 10% from whatever capacity the battery has. If it's about 50F, subtract 5%. That means that at the end of the lease, that 67 miles of range becomes 5% to 10% on a cold day. If you run the heater, you can throw the 4 miles/kWh out the window, and may have 3 * 16.8 = 50.4 miles.
Once you have a good idea of the capacity of a given day, then you need to guess the economy (miles/kWh). You'll learn what is normal very quickly because you will reset it every day. I could average 4 miles/kWh easily around town, and as you know, the car will do the same down the freeway at 65mph.
Then, you'll learn what adjustments to make. If you're going to run that heater, it will take a bunch of economy, where cruising down the level freeway at 65mph might only get 3 miles/kWh. Going up hill will consume more than downhill. As you noted in our drive, going from 500 feet elevation the 20 miles to downtown at near sea level showed about 4.2miles/kWh.
Anyway, those are the big things. Check out the range chart linked in my signature line.